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Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral Watch

2010-02-13T09:24:00.007Z

I am proud to present you with an interesting and highly desirable luxury watch that I recently learned about. I was introduced to Mr. Laurent Ferrier at the 2010 Geneva Time Exhibition. Language barrier aside (you can blame my lack of speaking French), I was told that he is the proprietor of a new brand, and he was wearing the proof. What I saw was of the most impressive artifacts from my trip to Geneva, on that occasion.

The watch has the polished finish (both visually and mechanically) of a Patek Philippe and the classy refinement of a Rolex. In fact, the case of the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral watch reminds of me sleek shape and curved edging of the Rolex Datejust case. Looking at the images you can tell just how cohesive and fluid the case of the case it. This design combined with its high quality finishing makes for a beautiful timepiece. It is unfortunate that my on-the-spot images of the piece did not come out, but these images from Laurent Ferrier give you an adequate understanding of the watch.

My glowing impression of the watch must be tempered with the statement that this is a classy timepiece, in traditional form and design. The dial is simple, with just the time and a subsidiary seconds dial. Though there is a chic modern elegance to design. The Roman numerals are thin and elongated, just as the hands are. Laurent Ferrier presents two genius dials. One in a white enamel with black markers and hands (and a tasteful red for the markers on the subsidiary dial), and another with a black onyx dial and white hour markers and hands. The result are two beautifully high contrasting dials that do justice to a philosophy of pure legibility. While the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral is a beautiful watch, its main purpose is to be the finest classic looking luxury watch available. It competes very well with its more mainstream competitors in my opinion.

The dial has a soft and barely visible "Tourbillon Double Spiral" label on the dial. To my knowledge this is the only watch with just such a complication. It remains a fact that while the theory of a tourbillon movement is to make a watch more accurate, this is often not the case. Laurent Ferrier wants his watches to all perform within Chronometer grades of accuracy. As such, he has crafted these watches with a level of performance precision that is hard to find in other tourbillon based watches. Aside from immaculate finishing and fine engineering, the Ref. FBN916-01 movement has a special double balance spring system. As part of the tourbillon carriage, where the balance spring typically is (aka hair spring), there are now two on top of one another, and they beat in opposing directions. In fact, the purpose of them is to regulate each other and provide the most consistent rate possible.

Aside from the small note on the dial of the watch, you need to flip the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral over and look through its sapphire caseback to see the tourbillon in action. This is similar to the stealthy tourbillons found in some Patek Philippe watches. The manually wound movement is beautifully decorated, and has a power reserve of about 80 hours. The movement is very accurate and is a serious mechanical creation in a very classic looking package. Something for the serious watch lover to appreciate. The movements are apparently made for Laurent Ferrier by La Fabrique du Temps, and contains other impressive features that Laurent Ferrier will no doubt wish to explain to interested clients.

While the watches are not strictly limited, Laurent Ferrier watches will have a very limited production each year. This assists with the exclusivity of the brand, and likely helps ensure high quality in each piece. The Galet Classic case is 41mm wide and available in 18k yellow or white gold. The watch hands are also gold. The watch can be paired with a 20mm wide black or brown alligator strap (in various finishes), that is hand-sewn and has an Alcantara leather lining.

Laurent Ferrier watches will remain rare timepieces, but I predict will be highly cherished pieces for their fortunate owners, and collectors in the future. Price for the watch is between 185,000 - 190,000 Swiss Francs.

By Ariel Adams

Tempvs Compvtare Ocean Friendly Watches

2010-01-25T06:06:00.007Z

The ability to adequately understand the Tempvs Compvtare (Tempus Computare) watches is proof of one's need to understand the story behind watches. The brand's first timepiece is the Shark Watcher, with an upcoming Sea Shepherd model coming soon. A simple view of the watch reveals a competent diver's chronograph timepiece with a unique placement of the lume and an edgy (literally) style. Aside from the attractive bright style, the watch contains two important messages.

First is a more simple message for the watch industry and to the consumer. Tempus Computare watches are totally Swiss made and assembled. In an era where independent brands have difficulty getting off the ground (not that it was ever easy) it is especially noteworthy that Tempus Computare has been able to succeed with a totally Swiss product, when so many others rely on Asian parts. Handling the watch does reveal a distinct increase in quality compared to many other independent brand diver watches. The message here is really about quality and dedication to the preservation of independent, Swiss made watches.

The design of the watch implies its connection with sharks. Looking at the side of the watch you see a shark silhouette like shape while the caseback of the watch is engraved with (among other things) a shark figurine. Why sharks? Well aside from the majestic beauty of the world's oldest great predators, the Shark Watcher timepiece is part of an effort to help protect the creatures. The second, and most important message of the Tempus Computare Shark Watcher is that the oceans' sharks are being hunted down and need protection. Further still, the watches are ecologically friendly use no animal skins and rely of reclaimed steel (a form of recycling where steel from derelict items such as boats are reused for the watch cases).

A full one-third of the net profits from each sold Shark Watcher timepiece is donated to a host of charities and causes that are directly working to protect sharks. Fisherman mostly from Asia brutally harvest endangered or limited population sharks in violation of many international laws or treaties. Without proper protection, these important parts of our natural ocean eco-system are on a path to extinction. In addition to the severe consequences this would have on the environment, it would be a particular shame given the fact that sharks evolved millions of years ago, making them one of our oldest surviving species. Tempus Computare feels so dedicated to this cause that such a donation is strictly connected to the Shark Watcher and future eco-themed watches.

At 47mm wide in polished or PVD black steel the Shark Watcher makes a bold presence on the wrist. It has a distinctive rotating bezel with a combo of sharp angles and smooth edges - as well as applied luminat. The watch case has sharp lugs that have blue luminant filled triangles on their ends. More lume is placed on the ends of the crown and chronograph pusher, which are themsleves functionally rendered and easy to operate. Matching blue lume is used on the dials of the wat ch for the hour and mintues indicators, chronograph subdials, and for the unique split, mirror image hands. Over the dial is a thick sapphire crystal, while the watch case is water resistant to 200 meteres.

Style of the watch is polarizing but fun. It is a functional look with added style and grace that make it unique among competitor diver watches. Inside the Shark Watcher is a Swiss automatic mechanical Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement. The good looks of the watch help overshadow is stern message about environmental preservation. In the end, if getting a Shark Watcher timepiece from Tempvs Compvtare helps you save one shark, isn't it worth it? Price is between $9.400 - $11,400 not including VAT. Coming soon is the Tempvs Compvtare Sea Shepherd watch to supposrt the popular whale protection group. Similar in theme, the Sea Shepherd is coated with black DLC, has yellow luminant and trim in a different type and comes with a Sea Shepherd skull on the dial with a trident hour hand, and shepherd's staff for the mintue hand. The Tempvs Compvtare Sea Watcher timepiece is available now while the Sea Shepherd will be available in the near future.

By Ariel Adams

DMH Jumping Hour

2010-01-21T21:51:00.005Z

DMH stands for Dingemans Mechanische Horloges (Dingemans mechanical watches) and it is very likely that you've never heard of it before. With only 12 timepieces per year, owner Fred Dingemans creates customized timepieces in his workshop in a (very) quiet village in The Netherlands, using his own tooling and machinery.

Fred Dingemans' mission is to create mechanical timepieces, as much by his own hands as possible, involving the customer as much as possible and with a maximum of 12 watches a year. As you can see on the watch (two pictures below), it has some unconventional methods for mounting a dial and case, creating a water-resistant crown with a lock and so on. For example, the satinized stainless steel casing (316L steel) and the crown system is all made in-house.

If the customer wishes, he can have the crown placed on a different location (for people who wear their watch on the right wrist), choose his own dial color and have influence on the type of hands used. The latter wasn't really necessary when Fred Dingemans got his most recent assignment, to create his first Jumping Hours DMH timepiece.

Fred Dingemans uses (a.o.) TD mechanical movements in most cases, but other mechanical movements are - depending on availability - used as well. The Jumping Hour is the first timepiece created by DMH with an open dial. The result is stunning in our opinion, it reveals a bit of the mechanical movement and the jumping hour mechanism is clearly visible.

As you can see the Shell Cordovan strap suits the watch perfectly, a no-nonsense rugged strap for a rugged watch. The strap features a DMH signed buckle, also created and engraved by Fred.

Besides watches, Fred also takes care after his (mostly vintage) machinery all by himself. He sees his watches are purely functional, where design is less important. Although we applaud to these thoughts, the unique DMH design isn't bad at all in our opinion.

DMH timepieces have - of course - a waiting list, but you will surely forget about that quickly once you will receive the final product. As a customer, you will be involved in all stages of building the DMH timepiece. Giving and receiving feedback on your soon-to-be watch must be one of the most interesting activities during the process.

Prices start around 1000 EUR for a DMH timepiece. Contact DMH for more information.

Kees Engelbarts Mokume Gane Dragon Watches

2010-01-10T04:57:00.005Z

One of European watch making's greatest artists is Kees Engelbarts (Dutch born) who has mastered the technique of Mokume Gane - a traditional Japanese artistic technique that literally means wood grain metal. The technique utilizes an incredible level of effort and hand engraving to achieve such pictured results. You see metals such as platinum, gold, and silver, as well as chemically colored steel used together in the creation of his mostly piece unique works.

As the level of effort in each of these watches is so high, Kees Engelbarts only makes a few pieces each year. Earlier in his career Engelbarts was called upon to work on watches for other brands - decorating movements, and creating his beautiful dials. He still does work for a limited number of brands, but most of his efforts are involved in his own brand, as well as the related Cornelius & Cie watch brand whose Chronosome watch is based on Kees Engelbarts flagship creation (pictured at the top) "The Dragon Gate Legend" watch. A few notable brands that have had piece unique timepieces with Kees Engelbarts iconic efforts are Harry Winston and Peter Speake-Marin.

Kees Engelbarts prefers to include NOS (new old stock) watch movements in his timepieces. A. Schild movements are popularly found in his creations. Movements from the 50s, 60s, and 70s are acquired, highly finished and decorated in his watches. Sometimes he uses even older movements such as the 1935 A. Schild Calibre AS 690 movement found in The Dragon Gate Legend watch. Each of his watches have sapphire crystal caseback that provide views to his beautifully hand engraved movement work.

One of Kees Engelbarts preferred subjects are dragons. Many of his watches and engraving work display the fascinating mythical beasts that most always appear proper on a watch dial. Multifaceted in his approach, you will find Dragons images in both Oriental and European styles. Such variety is a clear message that Kees Engelbarts is interested in representing the iconic beast as it has been captured in many different cultures. Note that the pictured watches are but some of his many dragon-themed creations. He also enjoys engraving other powerful mythical or real beasts such as unicorns, horses, and tigers.

For example, The Dragon Gate Legend watch depicts a Chinese style Dragon and a legend where a carp fish turns into a dragon through a tough swim upstream. The allegorical story is a message about the necessity for drive and effort in life. The large Ref. 0667 piece unique watch features a 49mm wide 18k rose gold case, movement with 8 days of power reserve, and a solid gold dial with silver as part of the special engraving work. Kees Engelbarts used uncommon cayman alligator leather for the strap.

Other watches in the Kees Engelbarts family share similar design aesthetics and comparable levels of detail and decoration. Both manually wound and automatic movements are employed by Kees Engelbarts, who also provides all the after service work on the watches. Given the extremely complex efforts and time involved in the luxury watches - as well as the fact that most of his pieces are one-of-kind watches, prices are predictably high (and via request only). Kees Engelbarts also performs custom work for those who have specific desires, as well as the means to afford them. For most people, Kees Engelbarts watches remain untouchable pieces of art that epitomize a beautiful yet masculine engraving and decorative design aesthetic.

By Ariel Adams

Philip Stein - Feel the difference....

2010-01-03T16:34:00.004Z

According to some newspaper and magazine articles, wealth is out and well being is considered to be in for 2010. Philip Stein timepieces are meant for those who are interested in their well being as well as in nice watches.

Philip Stein offers two types of technologies with respect to their timepieces – Electromagnetic Frequency technology utilizing electromagnetic fields, introduced in 2003, and Natural Frequency Technology, introduced in 2008.

The main difference between the Electromagnetic Frequency and Natural Frequency technology is the delivery system of these frequencies. While one utilizes electro-magnetic frequencies, which are delivered through a dual chip system, the Natural Frequency technology is delivered to wearers through a metal disk inside the watch that has been infused with key frequencies in a proprietary process. When worn on the wrist, the watch exposes frequencies and information to the biofield of the person wearing it. The biofield, which is the Master energy field that regulates the body’s functions, informs the body to relax, and in doing so, the person becomes more resistant and resilient to stress.

According to Philip Stein, when you are wearing one of their frequency watches, you are more in harmony with natural earth, centered and grounded… all of which creates a better and healthier “you”.

Both technologies work within the same beneficial key frequency of 7-9 hertz, which encompasses the chief resonant frequency of the natural earth and is a frequency that is harmonious and grounding to life. Philip Stein reports on their website that consumers of their watches have stated that these watches helped them for better sleep, less stress, clearer focus and better concentration.

The Philip Stein timepieces start around 400 USD and go up to 18.275 USD. A number of famous people, like Oprah Winfrey, Samuel L. Jackson and Jason Alexander ('George' from Seinfeld) are wearing (and supporting) Philip Stein timepieces.

Philip Stein timepieces use ETA and/or Ronda (quartz) movements and besides the normal hour, minute, seconds and date feature also offer chronograph watches. Dials can be customized with respect to its material (mother of pearl for example) and with diamonds.

A cool feature of Philip Stein is that they offer a wide range of customization of their watches when you order one and the variety of straps you can order on-line. Just type in the serial number of your watch or watch type, and you will get an overview of watch straps you can choose from.

Does it work? Well, I will leave that one up to you. There seems to be a large number of people that say (via testimonials and in forums) that these watches help them in their well being and advice other people to try them as well. The entry level models of these watches are friendly priced, so you can always give it a shot.

Perrelet Turbine Watch Collection Recap

2010-01-03T16:24:00.001Z

It was almost a make or break design for luxury watch maker Perrelet. A new sporty watch with a turbine styled dial was hoped to hail in a strong level of acceptance for the brand that was treading its way into the United States. While the brand would have been fine if the Turbine collection was a flop, it would have lost that valuable "good first impression" it needed with US watch lovers. A second look at a brand in the US once it has already been dismissed is a tough, and expensive marketing endeavor. Future plans for the brand include making its own movements and competing head-on with the already mainstream luxury watch brands in the US. Perrelet had the product and the quality, but not the notoriety yet.

Earlier in the year I was one of the first people to break news about the Perrelet Turbine watch. The relatively wild design has an obviousness to it. "Why hasn't anyone done that before" was a perception I recall having. For years before that Perrelet was known for its double rotor designs. A system where the automatic rotor in the rear of the watch was connected to another rotor in the front of the watch. The idea was to showcase what Perrelet debuted long ago - the first automatic watch.

The concept of extending the front rotor into something more whimsical wasn't too difficult from a technical standpoint. Some clever designer eventually obliged the idea that a spinning rotor could be part of a jet engine style turbine look on a watch face. A mass of concept art and meetings likely resulting in enticing images, and the project was green-lighted. When the final production ready images were completed more than a few people at Perrelet knew they struck gold with the Turbine watch - but would finicky US watch buyers agree? It has been true for a long time that one could make that argument that European and Asia watch consumers are more forgiving when it comes to "freshness." Avant garde design in the US - no matter how novel or genius - can fail without cause.

Thus it was that the Perrelet Turbine watch needed a positive reaction in the US for the brand to establish a sure footing in the important market. Bloggers such as my self were relied upon to break the news and offer our educated insight into the new collection. In June of 2009 I got to see prototype models of the watch. Functional pre-production mock-ups that communicated what the watch would be like. Three initial models were made available. An all DLC black model, one in black with a red trim behind the turbine rotor blades, and a steel version. Each very well made and on sporty rubber straps.

Watches like this haven't been done before. The reaction on the Internet was impressive. Even before real life images of the Perrelet Turbine watches were posted by the likes of me, plenty of new fans pledged their vows to buy the new watch collection once it was available. This would be months from the time of their announcement. Feedback was looking good for Perrelet, and the watch looked to be slated for success.

Perrelet Turbine watches are luxury timepieces through and through. Priced at about $5,000 to $5,850- these are unlikely to be someone's "first luxury sport watch." Also, due to high demand and new ways to internally make parts, the prices of these Turbine watches are actually lower then initially reported last year when the watches were announced. Still, part of the allure of the item is the straight forward nature of its operation. Maybe luxury sport watches require an entire debriefing to understand what they do, and why you should be impressed with them. Perrelet managed to make these concepts self evident with the Double Rotor Turbine collection watches.

At 44mm wide, the watches are a good sporty size. The watches all start with a smoothly tapered titanium case meant to look like a jet engine structure. To suggest a seamless look, Perrelet designed the crown to be flush with the case. There is a little handle the folds out, and then pull out to operate the watch. A strong point of the design is that the hands aren't too difficult to see - meaning that you don't need to sacrifice comfort for style.

It is easy to appreciate the Perrelet P-181 automatic movement. It is visible through the sapphire caseback window with a level of decoration you'd not expect from a sport watch. One area that I can easily say Perrelet excels at, is attention to detail and decoration. The Turbine collection features two watches that Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coating. The trendy application of a very hard, and very scratch resistant black coating makes a good deal of sense when trying to protect an expensive investment against wear and tear. This materials is quickly supplanting PVD as the black application of choice. Only high-end makers like Perrelet have a good grasp of how to work with the coating still. Don't expect to see DLC in too many lower end watches for a few years.

Once the Perrelet Turbine watch became commercially available it was clear to Perrelet that they had a hit. My understanding is that the watch now leads their US sales, and it is a welcome chore for them to keep up with demand. US watch lovers are charmed with the luxury, the novelty, and the clear "gee whiz" nature of the innovative watch that feels so obvious in design. It goes to show that with a good design, something that hasn't been quite done before can still feel natural. The Perrelet Turbine watches are a good example of how a watch brand can penetrate a market with a single good item. Better yet, is that Perrelet has a whole collection of impressive timepieces to show off now that they have more attention.

By Ariel Adams

Archimede Pilot Watches

2009-12-16T19:34:00.005Z

There doesn't seem to come an end to the popularity of pilot watches. The original pilot watches were made by famous watch manufacturers IWC, Lange & Söhne, Laco, Wempe and Stowa. IWC, Laco and Stowa still produce pilot watches, but all come with a spicy price tag.

German watch company Archimede has a wide collection of watches, that include an impressive line up of pilot watches at an affordable price. Starting at a relative small size of 36mm, Archimede Pilot watches are also suitable for men with small wrist or woman who want to wear a tough looking watch for a change.

Archimede Pilot watches range from the aforementioned 36mm to 45mm for their Pilot XL models. All models are available with an ETA2824 mechanical automatic movement. However, as you know, the original pilot watches were only available with a handwound movement of course. Archimede therefore introduced the Pilot XLH (Handaufzug/Handwound) model, only available in 45mm. This particular model uses the proven ETA (former Unitas) 6498 movement that we also know from the Panerai Luminor Base and Marina models.

The sizes from 36mm up to 42mm are available in different case materials, such as titanium and PVD coated cases, leather straps or metal bracelets. The 45mm XL (XLA for automatic and XLH for the handwound movement) is only available in stainless steel.

On top of that, Archimede can also provide the Pilot XLH with ETA 6498 movement with a so-called 'Top'-finish. This means that the movement has a higher grade of finish from the ETA factory: Decorated with Geneva stripes and blued screws!

As for the prices, Archimede succeeded in using a friendly price for a tough mechanical wrist watch in my opinion. Therefore, the price/quality ratio is superb. If you are looking for a friendly priced mechanical wrist watch or a pilot watch in particular, look no further.

Prices start at 325,- Euro and most pilot watches range between the entry price and 395,- Euro. The PVD models are a bit pricier, 445,- Euro that is. The most expensive model is the Pilot XLH with the ETA 6498 with Top-finish, 665,- Euro. The regular XLH model is priced at 395,- Euro.

The Pilot watches come with a transparent display back. To have a regular stainless steel case back, add 25,- Euro to the price of the watch. A folding clasp instead of a buckle is available for 40,- Euro.

My personal favourite would be the 42mm Pilot H version, this model comes close to the original pilot watches due to the absence of a brand name on the dial and the lack of a date window. The price of this model is 365,- Euro.

Have a look at Archimede Uhren yourself, website available in German and English language.

Mo Eden's 'The Digit Watch'

2009-12-16T18:43:00.004Z

Who ever thought that we at WatchUseek would be mentioning a ring instead of a wristwatch? Only if the ring contains a watch. Mechnical, of course! Mo Eden started his career as a Bespoke Jeweller for clients all over the world, specialising in the procurement of rare unusual stones & the production of outstanding pieces.

Besides pure jewellery, Mo Eden also created 'The Digit Watch'. A diamond ring with a time piece inside, using mechanical movements from world's famous watch manufacturers such as Rolex SA, Blancpain and Breitling.

One of the essential requirements for Mo, when creating this ring, was to use a truly fantastic mechanical movement. Being a big Rolex fan, Mo started out using (vintage) caliber 1800 movement by Rolex. Caliber 1800 is a very small size movement, with a 48 hours power reserve and constructed using 17 jewels.

Besides this particular Rolex movement, Mo Eden is also able to use a Blancpain caliber R335 movement or a vintage Breitling movement. It is all about the wishes of the client, which movement to use and what optical characteristics would meet their desire(s).

The crystal used for the Digit Watch is a cabochon Aquamarine, instead of the 'usual' sapphire or mineral crystals. The ring is studded with 142 brilliant cut diamonds.

For more information, please contact Mo Eden via www.digitwatch.com

Virtual Ideas Watch Designer Concepts

2009-12-09T05:08:00.005Z

Virtual Ideas is watch design firm based in Geneva Switzerland. Their job is to assist existing watch companies come up with new ideas for watches to be labeled under those particular brand names. Virtual Ideas is what is considered an outside design firm - but fully qualified to design timepieces from the ground up. Their favorite pastime? Making interesting watch concept creations to attract the eyes of watch lovers and companies alike.

Seen here are three of their latest watch concept creations. A rugged man's watch and who interesting women's watches. Often times Virtual Ideas will "adopt" the thematic look of one brand, and come up with a new creations that might fit into the product family. You might notice that these watches may fit the designs you associate with one or more brands - this is done on purpose.

The first watch is known as the Virtual Ideas Concept 3. The case is meant to be made mostly out of Gibeon meteorite. The interesting material is sometimes chosen as a fantastic looking watch dial, but this is the first time I've noticed it as the material for a watch case. This would make for a very interesting looking watch. Such meteorite material is mostly iron with smaller amounts of nickel, graphite, trolite, and traversite in the rock. Not only that, but the crystalline structure of the rock is amazing to behold, and would be truly dynamic looking in this black color (meteorites can be chemically dyed all sorts of colors). The watch would have a chronograph movement with a large date display. This fits the mold of several popular watch movements out there (both mechanical and quartz). Of course this is designed as a luxury watch, but could be "scaled down." Note how the rubber strap is integrated into the case while the textured large pushers make up for a large part of the watch's personality. Done in the now hip tonneau shape case, this watch would be a hit for urban warriors and alike.

Next is the Virtual Ideas Concept 4 haute joaillerie women's watch. Shaped like a large heart, the timepiece is carefully designed to allow for the set diamonds to help make up the shape of the watch, rather than just adorn it. he diamond dial looks clean and crisp, as though it may have a mirror surface to it. It reminds me of the dance floor in a fantasy ball room. The classic hands are elegant but not too minimalistic, having a ornate design to them. The watch would be made of white gold most likely, and uses large diamonds to frame the dial on the perfect heart-shaped case. Diamonds vertically oriented around the sides of the case give it a deeper and more substantial look. One lug for the strap at the bottom mixed with two lugs at the top connect a thin galuchat strap. The dainty crown emphasizes the horological character of the watch, while enhancing the inherent femininity of the design. While heart-shaped watches have been done before, this take on the theme feels fresh and refined.

Last is the Virtual Ideas Concept 2, another women's watch with a new type of complication that epitomizes the goal of novel haute horology. This impressive women's watch is broad and meant to be relatively thin. It also calls for a rather complex movement - akin to something a mind like Christophe Claret might imagine. The main dial of the watch is functional but straight forward. The time, date (on two discs) and AM/PM indicator are displayed. You can see that Virtual Ideas is keen on this particular hands design that is also exhibited on the Concept 4 watch in a similar style. The inner dial has guilloche machine engraving, while the outer part of the time dial has traditional looking thin Roman numerals. This entire watch dial is set off-centered on the face of the watch.

The rest of the face is dedicated to three rotating rings, that each rotating opposite one another. So the inner and outer rings rotate counter-clockwise, while the inner ring rotates clockwise. The idea is for the three segments to make up numbers at the top of the watch face and for the number to accurately read "12" when the time is 12 o'clock. Such a system would require a novel movement that is able to power all of these functions properly. The thin bezel of the watch would be diamond decorated, while the rest of the case is relatively sober in style and has a Cartier like blue jeweled cabochon crystal in the crown. Strap in this case looks comfortable as white rubber.

Together the concepts are but three of Virtual Idea's creations. The irony is that once these designs are released for public viewing they are considered "dead." Why? Because brands that end up releasing designs from firms like Virtual Ideas must keep the design's secret as to prevent competing brands from "borrowing" the design ideas. As such, while elements of these watches may show up in future timepieces, these designs are strictly concepts made to wet your appetite.

By Ariel Adams

Pedum Tourbillon

2009-12-03T19:01:00.013Z

Pedum is a Dutch brand by Peter Voeten and Elly Knepper. Both did the same study for goldsmith in Schoonhoven, The Netherlands.

Although his primarily task was designing and creating jewellery for a famous house of jewellers in Brussels, Peter started working on time pieces in the 1980s as well. After this company went bankrupt during rough times, Peter Voeten and Elly Knepper started a company in The Netherlands by the name of Pedum. Pedum has two pillars, one for horology and one for jewellery. Peter is focussing on the watches and creates exceptional pieces, in very limited numbers.

The craftsmanship in Pedum watches is mainly in the design, construction and finish of the used materials for the watch case, dial, case back and clasp. The clasp bears the logo of Pedum, feet. Pedum uses mechanical movements only, mainly ETA/Valjoux movements. The design of the Pedum watches is inspired by Jule Verne's 20.000 Leagues Under the Sea, as you can see by the looks of the watch casing.

The nautical look of the watch case with the large screws is clearly visible in the photograph above.

Last year, Pedum created a one-off time piece for an important customer in The Netherlands. The client requested Pedum to create an exclusive gold time piece with a tourbillon movement. Pedum uses a Progress-movement with a tourbillon. This movement can also be found in the Chronoswiss Régulateur Tourbillon and Alain Silberstein's Tourbillon time piece.

In the pictures below, you will see some photographs of the process of creating the Pedum Tourbillon time piece:

The drilling of the holes for the lugs is all done by Peter Voeten. Below, you'll see an almost finished case part of the Pedum watch, ready to be attached to the lower part.

Above, the case is complete and ready to be polished. Below you'll see a picture of an almost finished crown. Entirely made in-house by Pedum.

Not only the case, crown and clasp are created by Pedum, also the dial is hand made. First, a disc is being extracted from a flat square piece of gold. The numerals, hour markers and subdials are cut-out as well and place on the dial. A lot of proto-typing and aligning with the client is key here.

Ofcourse, the movement has to fit the dial, especially the space to demonstrate the tourbillon cage.

Will it fit? Below you see the result of true craftsmanship of a goldsmith annex watch maker! The gold dial with all the hand made applied numerals and details in combination with the Progress Tourbillon movement is a feast for the eyes of a watch aficionado.

The watch and strap are being finished by the aforementioned clasp with the 'foot' logo.

Et voila, the Pedum Tourbillon time piece, one of a kind! We can only imagine how the (sun)light will play with all the gold elements of the case, dial and applied numerals.

During the interview with Peter Voeten that I had, he told me that the creation process of such a complicated watch can't be expressed in an amount of hours. It took a lot of time to search for the right movement, the right combination of parts, the proto-typing of the dial etc.

Although Peter Voeten is not a watch collector himself, he surely enjoys the haute horlogerie time pieces of brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Keeping track of novelties in the haute horlogerie inspires him to think about creating new timepieces as well, using his own particular design and constructions.

Xetum Tyndall And Stinson Watches

2009-12-03T10:20:00.007Z

Xetum is a new watch brand based in San Francisco, California with watches that are assembled in Switzerland. Arriving with two initial models, Xetum timepieces are modern in style with a designer twist. Brand emphasis is on simplicity without lacking in emotional substance. Xetum describes the aesthetic as "accessible modern design." Xetum is also about traditional watch making. It was important to founder Jeff Kuo that his watches feature quality Swiss movements in a package that was recognizable to watch lovers but unique at the same time. Xetum is also mindful of the environment, and from the start has inserted a number of ecologically friend policies and practices into the company as well as the watches.

I sat with Xetum's founder before the brand was launched to discuss the brand vision and prototypes. The watches are generously sized and invigorating in character, while being inviting in style. Jeff Kuo ensured that no detail was overlooked while the designs enjoyed continuous refinement. With the watches now available I can fully appreciate the quality of the models.

The entry level model is the Xetum Stinson, which is in steel and 40mm wide and 11mm thick. The case is designed without lugs to have the strap secure directly to the case for a more seamless look. It has an AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial with a choice of three dial colors (white, black or gray). The case is finished with a brushed polish while vertical strips are done in a mirror polish. The screw-down hexagonal crown is shaped like the brand's green hexagon logo. On the rear of the watch you can find a mineral glass display back looking into the Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. The dial is easy to read with ample sized hands and Arabic numerals while the major hour markers and hands are coated in SuperLumiNova.

Both watches have naturally tanned leather straps that have an eco-friendly Italian cork lining. The clasp is a push-button butterfly deployment that is signed with the Xetum logo.
The higher-end Xetum model is the Tyndall - another reference to a Bay Area locale - and features a Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement with an elaboree level of decoration. The Tyndall is also in steel and 40mm wide and a sapphire crystal. A complete hour scale up to 24 hours is located on the dial, which also features a subsidiary seconds dial for a more classic look. I enjoy the symmetrical design of the dial as well. The Tyndall is available with a black or off-white dial, both with SuperLumiNova on the hands and major hour indicators. Price for the Tyndall watch is $1,395. Available direct from Xetum.

By Ariel Adams

Ochs & Junior Anno Cinquanta Watches

2009-11-18T09:20:00.015Z

Being quite unusual is what makes these watches also quite fantastic. Ochs & Junior (Ochs und Junior) is no ordinary watch maker because founder Ludwig Oechslin has no desire to make "ordinary" watches. He takes Bauhaus design to its minimalistic threshold, with a collection a timepieces that expresses his personal ideal of what a watch should be, and what a watch should display.

If the sentiments he harbors sound a bit like the dedication of an artist, then you would be correct. This is art - functional, luxurious, and extremely time consuming, but still art. Ludwig runs with a very creative crowd that includes watch makers among many others. This affords him a diverse intellectual perspective, and his inspiration for the Anno Cinquanta collection of watches comes equally from the world of horology, as it does the greater industry of functional goods.

Each timepiece in the collection is hand-made using precision machinery and years of expertise. The movement is hand-made by watchmaker Paul Gerber, and is his own unique design. It uses a solid white gold rotor and has over 100 hours of power reserve. The beautiful movement is made completely in Zurich Switzerland, and is neatly displayed through the timepieces sapphire caseback window. If the rotor doesn't look like white gold, it is because it is unfinished and has developed a special gray patina.

The gray patina of the dial (like the automatic rotor) is unlike that which you will find on any other watch. The eccentric name of the timepiece comes from the 50 openings on the dial for the annual calendar. Sometimes the Anno Cinquanta watch is referred to as the Anno 50 watch. The 43mm wide case comes in either white or red gold, or in sterling silver. The case is quite simple, done in two parts. The lugs are connected to the caseback and the top part of the case is one piece.

Aside from the time (hours, minutes, and seconds), the watch displays the month, day, and date - though in a most eccentric of manners. There are no indicators, and no reference as to what you are looking at. Merely a dial that looks as though it were rendered from a sophisticated sort of code. Och & Junior is proud that their annual calendar watches use much less parts than those from most annual calendar watches. A fact that might make them less prone to requiring repair or service.

On the outermost dial you'll find 31 openings - this is for the date. A disc with an orange dot behind the dial moves to indicate the date. In the middle of the dial there are two smaller rings of small openings. The top ring has seven openings and is for the day of the week, and the lower ring has 12 openings, which is for the month. It is easy to disregard the Anno 50 as not being user friendly given the lack of visual instruction as to what you are looking at. This would be lumping the watch together with the rest of the world's timepieces. Ochs & Junior clearly does not fit this mold.

The design and construction of mechanical wrist watches is highly sophisticated, so it the person who is enjoys them. The type of person who wears an Anno 50 watch learns how to read the dial and relishes in the fact that most onlookers are unable to read the dial. It is part of the joy that accompanies teaching oneself a new skill that others do not have. The Anno 50 is an ideal watch for days when one wants to be at their most mysterious.

Ochs & Junior timepieces are sold in a handful of boutiques in Switzerland, but they are the type of brand that enjoys hearing from potential new owners directly - part of the service you get from just such a brand. The Anno Cinquanta timepieces start at about 35,000 CHF is silver, up to about 40,000 CHF in red gold, and up to 41,500 CHF for the white gold version. Prices exclude the VAT and shipping costs.

By Ariel Adams

The Beauty of Benzinger Hand Decorated Watches

2009-10-29T06:42:00.003Z

Nothing compares to the beautiful classic elegance and sense of artistic wonder like the result of guilloche machine hand operated engraving. When mixed with hand engraving, you get results just like this, and no one does it quite like Jochen Benzinger in Germany. Let me clarify. Germany-based Benzinger is one of the finest specialty watch engravers in the world. Their work is a mix of personally branded watches, as well as engraving work for select watch maker clients.

Benzinger watches take Swiss mechanical movements and performs numerous forms of engraving (both hand and machine), as well as movement skeletonization. Pictured are a number of examples where you can see the results of this amazing craft. I find it easy to fall in love with these watches as they combine a mixture of classic design, and a masterful attention to detail as done by dedicated professionals. The best part is that Benzinger watches are an impressively good value in terms of price.

Above you'll see the Benzinger Volkskelett Floral watch. A fully floral pattern engraved and skeletonized watch that uses a Swiss Unitas 6498 hand-wound movement. The German made steel case is 42mm wide, while the strap is alligator. Notice that fantastic level of detail in the decoration. A combination of hand and machine engraving techniques greet you, while a stylized "JB" (Jochen Benzinger) sits close to the crown on the dial. Screws and hands are blued, while the hands are done in a Breguet style.

Here you have the caseback view of the Benzinger Zeitfenster watch again with a hand decorated Unitas 6498 movement. Instead of being totally "see through," the watch has a PVD black, decorated plate in the middle of the movement. The watch has a classic Breguet style dial and hands, with partial skeletonization - allowing for a good mix between an open movement, and classic elements. The case is also 42mm wide in steel, and serves as fantastic statement for what Benzinger is capable of.

Next is a beautiful watch, as seen from all angles. This is the Offene Subskription IV timepiece. Notice the high level of classic decoration on the dial, and continued on the back. This watch displays mostly the beauty that can be achieved from guilloche machine engraving. Once again we find a Units 6498 movement, and can see how dynamic the movement is, having a new look each time it is decorated differently. The coined bezel on the watch and wide level of decoration make this a serious classic and object of desire.

This is an engraved rotor from Bezinger's Chrono Drache, a Swiss Valjoux 7750 movement based watch. The front of the watch (not pictured) is subtle with a guilloche decorated dial, and an easy to use chronograph. Flip the watch over and you'll be impressed with the dragon form engraved on the automatic rotor in 18k yellow gold.

Last you will find the face of two more Benzinger watches. Highest is the 3/4 Skellet watch using a Unitas 6497 manually wound movement with a subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o'clock and a mostly sketelonized dial. A watch like this is a good choice for people who want the beauty of a skeletonized dial, but also want to preserve legibility. Below it you have the quite modern looking Benzinger Subskription Black VI watch with its use of circular shaped to create the distinctive dial design. It once again uses a manually wound Unitas 6498 movement, with a PVD coated middle plate and a large amount of guilloche engraving on the movement and dial surfaces.

All Benzinger watches are made with quality in mind using sapphire crystals, carefully made Pforzheim region parts where available, and a focus on wearing comfort and usability. Most watches are either limited editions or very limited in production.

By Ariel Adams

Antti Ronkko Minute Repeater Watch

2009-10-20T13:16:00.005+01:00

From Finland comes boutique watch maker Antti Ronkko who nicely epitomizes independent watch makers from the region. His Minute Repeater watch creation combines his personal tastes and ability to craft watch cases and dials, with an early 1900's Touchon & Company manually wound minute repeater pocket watch movement inside.

The case itself is all handmade by Ronkko costing him 100s of hours. It is 48.5mm wide in 316L steel, being comprised of three parts. This large size is due to the fact that movement itself (coming from a pocket watch) is 39.5mm wide alone. The lugs are integrated into the case as part of one uni-body construction.

Most minute repeater watches include a slide lever on the side of the case to active the minute repeater function. Ronkko wanted to do something different, so the this watch uses the a twist of the bezel to charge and then activate the minute repeater. It is a clever use of a winding bezel. I further enjoy his stencil mold style name plate to indicate the brand on the lower part of the dial.

The beauty and complication of the minute repeater movement alone, made for a suitable dial, especially since exposed movements are in. The movement has a subsidiary seconds dial located at 9 o'clock, while all hands are done in an attractive arrow style. The dial segments built by Ronkko also include brass, in addition to steel. Overall the look of the case is very appealing with a high degree of focal interest emphasized on the movement. I would have however liked for Ronkko to include dedicated hour markers that would have made the watch easier to read. These could have easily been included on the darkened dial plate ring.

Antti Ronkko is still in a very limited boutique phase, but has proven to have an ability to make interesting and highly capable watch cases that embody interesting movements made by others. I suspect the watch loving community will see Antti Ronkko models in the near future made in larger quantities. Plus, this is another sign that Finnish watch makers are becoming serious about the country also being know for creating interesting watches.

By Ariel Adams

Donald Corson Dresdener Regulator Watch

2009-09-29T04:05:00.008+01:00

Dresden and the surrounding regions in Saxony such as Glashutte are hubs of watch making in Germany. Many popular watch brands, as well as unique independents hail from this region. One such unique player is Donald Corson, who produces finely hand-crafted timepieces in tune with the generations old tradition of watch making. He only makes 2-3 watches a year, and they are all specially made to order.

Donald Corson's most interesting timepiece in my opinion is Dresdener Regulator watch. A wonderful homage to the region, as well as a well-made timepiece with built-in German character. Aside from high technology cars and other modern instruments, few know that this region of Germany is known for their charming figurines and toys. It is an aspect of Germany that few outsiders are aware of, and it adds a distinct warmth to a culture that is not know for it.

I feel that the Dresdener Regulator watch has a degree of this fun and whimsical attitude, combined with the master work of a hand-crafted timepiece. The layout of the dial was inspired by a pocket watch made by Syffert in Dresden back in 1807. It used three equal sized dials, each with different style hands to tell them hour, minute, and seconds. This is the basic principle of a regulator style watch, but done differently here. Much of the watch's special character is in the design of the hands.

Some movement parts are base ETA, that Corson painstakingly decorates and reassembles to make suitable for the unique three-hand layout. The rest of the movement was design by Corson, and hand made and assembled to provide for the subdials. The movement is plated with ruthenium, that gives it that dark gray look, while Cotes de Geneve polishing is later applied. The gentle round curves of the bridges as well as the layout of the gears is almost artistic, while the exposed sapphire covered caseback provides the clear view.

At 39mm wide, the case is a solid size without being too large or too small. The final versions of the watch will be in 18k red gold. The dial is interesting being a combination of natural slate rock, as well as having Cotes de Geneve polished ruthenium plated metal on the outside framing the subdials.

You can visit the Donald Corson website (link above) to view more images of not only the Dresdener Regulator watch, but also images of the manufacturing process, and how a real "boutique" watch is made - a fascinating process that easily takes enough time for Corson's 2-3 watch a year output to sound reasonable. Working with watch makers like Donald Corson is an excellent want to have a truly unique watch, as well as a close connection with the individual making the watch. This adds an addition emotional layer to ownership that few large watch makers can replicate.

By Ariel Adams

Habring Time Only 2009

2009-09-27T15:22:00.011+01:00

A small company in Austria..

Habring is probably one of the smallest watch manufacturers, with a production that hardly reaches 50 timepieces per year. Habring is located in Austria, and owned by Richard and Maria Habring. This small company exists since 1985, but it wasn't until October 2004 when their first wrist watch bearing the Habring²name on the dial was produced.

Exactly 5 years after the introduction of their very first Habring² model, Habring now introduces the Time Only 2009 model. Whilst the watch was introduced with an ETA (6498-1) powered movement 5 years ago, Habring is now proud to say that they are on their way to become a full blown watch manufacturer, creating their movements in-house. Their new manufactory caliber A09 automatic movement is based on the ETA train gear, but has an in-house developed bidirectional winding system. This has been developed by Habring to increase the easy of carrying out service on the A09 movement. The automatic winding system that they developed, can be removed by their watchmaker within seconds, to access the basic movement for service. Habring also has a manual wound movement (A09M), which doesn't have the in-house bidirection winding system of course. When buying a Time Only 2009, you can choose between these movements for the same retail price. Personally, I would opt for the automatic mechanical version (A09), since this one has this special developed winding system.
So, what do you get for 1950 Euro?

An individually engraved watch, with serial number 01 - 2009 till 12 - 2009 (or any other year of production) between the lugs at 6 o'clock. The watch comes with a domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal case back. The Time Only 2009 has a 42mm diameter and a water resistancy of 50 meters.

You can have the watch customized by choosing a dial from either silver, copper, galvanic blue or galvanic black. If you have any other ideas about the dial, you can file a request at Habring. Hand and hour markers are either gold plated or rhodiated.

The A09 movement has a diameter of 30mm and is shock protected according to DINS and NIHS standards. The manual wound version (A09M) has a power reserve of 57 hours and the automatic version (A09) of the movement has a power reserve of 48 hours.

Wait... there is more?

Yes, a Habring²handmade wooden box made from brushed and oiled Oregon-pine with integrated spare part compartment with a set of spares comes with the Time Only 2009. And because you'll probably leave that set at home when travelling, you can request a travel pouch with integrated spare strap on request.

Munichtime and Viennatime

Both Munich and Vienna have a watch event this year. The Munichtime and Viennatime are an excellent opportunity to meet with over 50 watch brands. From the leading companies in the watch industry to small and independent watchmanufacturers like Habring.

Schauer Kulisse Edition 14 Chronograph Watch Collection

2009-09-14T22:26:00.007+01:00

From German Schauer watches comes the Edition 14 Chronograph watches from their Kulisse collection . Beautifully rendered to be both modern and utilitarian, the timepieces embody the spirit of functional design simplicity.

Schauer chose to use a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic movement in the Kulisse Edition 14 watch. Using a high grade version of the movement, the originally tri-compax array of subdials was removed to created a bi-compax subdial layout. This altered the chronograph from having a 12-hour to a 30 minute timing max, but the dial design is clean and invitingly attractive. The left subdial is used for the watch seconds, while the right subdial is a counter for the chronograph minutes.

Looking through the rear of the watch you can view the decorated movement through the sapphire caseback window. Notice the high level of perlage and other polishes on the surfaces, as well as the blued steel screws and signed automatic rotor. Schauer is know for their high grade steel watch cases that offer a superior level of fit and finish. Like the caseback window, the watch crystal is sapphire and slightly domed.

The case is 42mm wide, by 15mm deep, and is water resistant to 50 meters. The bezel has the now signature Schauer screws that doubly serve to enhance the instrumental look of the watch, as well as be additional hour markers. Bezel screws have commonly been a simple, but effective look for creating a more masculine and functional feel to any timepiece. Dial design is superb. Like a sketch pulled from the desk of an architect, the large opens spaces serve as visual breathing room between the slender dials and hour markers. There is a date window carefully inserted at the 6 o'clock position. The Edition 14 watch is a timepiece born for function, and merely is attractive as a positive consequence. Hour markers as well as the hands are covered in C3 SuperLuminova for darkness viewing. Schauer intelligently made the hands very bold and to stand out against the dial for extreme visual clarity. The plump, robust nature of the hands is a charming contrast against the austere dial design - which is available in both black and white. Most other watches of this ilk would have had thin, hard to read hands against this style face, but Jorg Schauer knows better though. Also note how the hands are precisely the right length for the size of a dial, another indication that Schauer watches are designed by a dedicated watch making professional.

In addition to high grade cases and quality dials, Schauer is regarded as maker of fine watch bracelets. The Edition 14 watch has at least four options in the strap/bracelet department. The watch is available with a rubber or leather strap, as well as two metal bracelets. First is the classic mesh steel bracelet (the "Artus") that watch lovers known Schauer to render impeccably using thick metal (this bracelet is available on many of their timepieces). Second is a five link metal bracelet that interestingly uses almost squared links to compose the design - Schauer calls it the "Kubus." All strap or bracelet choices match the style of the watch and dial well.

Prices for the Schauer Edition 14 watches start at about $3,550.

By Ariel Adams

Watch2009 News

2009-09-12T08:02:00.004+01:00

Dear all,

Please find the latest news and list of exhibitors at www.watch2009-on-tour.com. Watchuseek is giving away 50 entry cards and offers all others a EUR 10.00 discount on the normal price of EUR 25.00. Interested? Send an e-mail with your full name, address and phone number to blog@watchuseek.com.

Sinn Modell 6000 Finanzplatzuhr

2009-09-09T21:07:00.017+01:00

Frankfurt am Main is the financial heart of Germany and therefore also being referred to as 'Mainhattan'. A very large number of banks, insurance companies, investment companies and the Frankfurt Stock Exchange are located within a radius of just a few hundred metres in the financial centre of Frankfurt am Main.

Frankfurt am Main is also the city of Sinn Spezialuhren. Founded in 1961 by Helmut Sinn, this watch company specialized in very functional watches. When Lothar Schmidt acquired the company in 1994, Sinn became even more technology driven and embedded all kinds of new materials and inventions, like TEGIMENT (hardening) technology, U-boat (submariner) steel, special oil, HYDRO technology and exposed these new watches and technologies to endurance tests of all sorts (extreme cold, heat and depth for example).

However, besides these mostly sporty watches, Sinn Spezialuhren also honors the Frankfurt financial district with the Finanzplatzuhr models. These watches are at least capable of showing two different timezones, and most of them are able to display three different timezones. The 6000 model has an additional chronograph functionality as well.

The Sinn Modell 6000 Finanzplatzuhr celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Although the credit crunch is not over (yet), Sinn wants to share their joy by introducing two limited Modell 6000 Finanzplatzuhr watches.

The Modell 6000 Anniversary II (or Jubiläum II in German) watch in stainless steel, limited to 100 pieces worldwide and the Modell 6000 Platinum (Platin in German) limited to 10 pieces only. Technical specifications of these watches are very similair, with exception of the used material for the case (and in weight ofcourse).

Above is the stainless steel Finanzplatzuhr 6000 Anniversary II, with a brown galvanized dial and rhodanized hourmarkers. Below is the Platinum version, featuring an engraved anthracite galvanized dial with rhodanized hour markers.Both watches have the same movement ticking inside, the trusted ETA/Valjoux 7750 caliber. This movement has a module added for the timezone functionality. The rotor of the movement is engraved with the skyline of Frankfurt am Main. The mechanical automatic movement has DIAPAL technology, to ensure a lubricant free escapement. When oil isn't used, there is no problem of preventing the oil from aging in an escapement. Without lubrication and without causing friction, established by the use of special materials (diamond pallets), long-term accuracy of the movement and particularly of the escapement can be assured.

Also, the Modell 6000 is water resistant to 100 meters (10 bar of pressure) due to its double sealed crown and pushers. The sapphire crystal on both sides of the watch is anti-reflective and the watch case of the stainless steel model is polished. The platinum watch case is polished as well.

The dimensions of the Modell 6000 Finanzplatzuhr are 38.5mm (diameter) x 16.5mm (height), which makes this watch suitable for any banker's wrist.

The Modell 6000 Anniversary II watch will be available in October 2009, for 2.950 euro (100 pieces only). The Platinum watch will be available in november 2009 and has a price tag of 19.900 euro (10 pieces only).

Both watches come with a 5 year warranty by Sinn Spezialuhren.

Linde Werdelin’s new collection available to try at home!

2009-08-27T18:50:00.003+01:00

Linde Werdelin’s new collection available to try at home!

Linde Werdelin, always at the forefront of innovation, is now giving its customers around the world the chance to experience its new collection through the ‘Test Set’ option. A hassle free way that ensures the trial of a Linde Werdelin watch, for five days, from the comfort of one’s home at no obligation.

As the only watch brand using analogue and digital technologies to their best advantage, the Linde Werdelin Test Set is a unique private viewing opportunity to put the functions of the Linde Werdelin watches and the Rock through their paces. By simply completing a short loan form on the LW website, Linde Werdelin will ship the chosen watch model plus the Rock to be experienced and enjoyed for five days. There is no obligation of purchase and the return of the set has been made hassle free for the recipient.

“Since the launch of the new collection earlier this year, we have seen a lot of interest from people around the world” says Jorn Werdelin, Managing Director and co founder of Linde Werdelin. “We wanted everyone to be able to hold our products in their own hands, feel the
craftsmanship of the watch on their wrist as well as how light and easy it is to use the Rock. The Test Set allows potential customers to have all that for five days no matter where they are situated in the world”.

The Linde Werdelin new collection Test Set is available though www.LindeWerdelin.com (models subject to availability).

** For more information on the Terms and conditions of the Test Set option please visit www.lindewerdelin.com/Terms-and-Conditions

CORNELIUS & CIE presents the new Chronosome 46 XY/RDM

2009-08-26T14:20:00.008+01:00

CORNELIUS & CIE presents the new Chronosome 46 XY/RDM

Responding to strong demand, Cornelius & Cie proudly presents the new Chronosome 46 XY/RDM,with a 42mm diameter case. The 46 XY/RDM shares the same strong visual features as its 49mm stable-mate, including the characteristic bulge in the case at 2 o’clock, the shape of the blued-steel hands and the shape of the dial, the latter inspired by classic designs from the 1940s.

The bulge of the 46 XY/RDM neatly accommodates the indicator for a very generous five days of power reserve provided by double mainspring barrels, and is aesthetically balanced by the retrograde date at 2 o’clock. The use of only even numbers on the dial allows for maximum legibility and a light, clean look that highlights the rich hand-decoration that characterizes all of Cornelius & Cie’s timepieces.

And as with all Cornelius & Cie’s timepieces, the customer has the option of creating a truly unique watch with a special engraving, logo, monogram, message or even portrait. The possibilities are endless!

Technical Data Chronosome 46 XY/RDM
Indications: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, power reserve
Case: Platinum or 18K pink gold
Hand engraved crown with logo and wood-like decoration
Corrector pusher for date at 2 o’clock
Dimensions: 42mm x 12mm
Dial: Solid silver with applied ruthenium-plated numerals
Open center with view to movement
Optional plate at 9 o’clock for personalized engraving
Movement: Automatic winding with 22K gold skeletonized rotor, 5-day (120 hours) power reserve. Double mainspring barrels, Hand-engraved bridges, ruthenium and rhodium plated 43 jewels
Water resistance: 3ATM / 30 meter
Crystals: Anti-reflection sapphire crystal front and display back
Strap: Alligator leather, custom design folding buckle in metal to match case

Cornelius & Cie
54, rue Ernest-Bloch
CH-1207 Geneva
Switzerland
+41 (0)22 735 1876
info@cornelius-cie.ch
http://www.cornelius-cie.ch/
pictures made by Atsuyuki Shimada

Gustafsson & Sjögren Ice Damascus Steel Dial Watch

2009-08-23T00:03:00.010+01:00

Swedish watch makers Gustafsson & Sjögren present their newest timepiece called Ice, probably the most refined watch in their line up. As a pair, Johan Gustafsson and Patrik Sjögren excel at complex metallurgy and the creation of sophisticated styles of Damascus steel unique to their shop.

Gustafsson & Sjögren have been making watches for a few years, likely a decision made after being asked to supply parts for other watch makers interested in their skills. Both are Swedish - Gustafsson is a well know bladesmith (where use of Damascus steel is common), and Sjögren, among other things, is a certified watch maker.

Ice uses the special hand made Damascus steel in a few key ways, including for the dial and crown. Ice uses an manually wound ETA 6498-1 movement. Though, on other Gustafsson & Sjögren watches I believe that Damascus steel is also used on automatic movement rotors in applicable timepieces. Given then nature of how Damascus steel is made, no two pieces are the same. This means that each dial for Ice will be totally unique giving each piece an individual character.

The ETA 6498 movement is actually a pocket watch movement that has here been modified and decorated by Soprod and done in chronometer grade quality. It features a subsidiary seconds dial that on the Ice watch takes the shape of a three-curved blade style icon that is used on other Gustafsson & Sjögren timepieces - a good little touch of character.

At first glance the attractive but simple looking 44mm wide steel case may look a bit bare. Gustafsson & Sjögren call the look "simple" with the idea being that your attention should focus on the Damascus steel elements of the watch. The dauphine hands are nicely cut with a slice going through the middle of each. Hour indicators are each applied diamond jewels in white gold settings. The dial is covered with a sapphire crystal, while the caseback exhibition window has a mineral crystal. You'll find another diamond set into the end of the crown.

Gustafsson & Sjögren chose to pair the watch to a mesh steel bracelet which accentuates the look of the watch, though it would look equally nice with a variety of bracelet or straps that the owners can easily attach. The simply styled Swedish watch gives you the thrilling look of Damascus steel, popular among many including most collectible blade lovers. Price for the Gustafsson & Sjögren Ice watch will be about $8,000 and it will be made in strictly limited quantities.

By Ariel Adams

Disposable watches, yuck!

2009-08-19T12:02:00.004+01:00

Sometimes, I can still be a bit surprised by people who don’t have a decent wristwatch. I know, it is a bit naïve probably, but when I have a proper hunch that someone makes some serious (or enough) money I can be amazed by the fact that they wear a 25 euro wristwatch. Not that I immediately link it to status, but simply because they probably can afford a nice watch.

Perhaps I am spoiled with the people around me, of which most have a very good taste in watches. However, I do have to admit that some of them probably got years of indoctrination by me :) For example, after a few years of living in a students’ house, they all bought (or got) nice watches for themselves. Ranging from vintage Omega watches to Sinn, Chopard Happy Diamonds and Rolex watches. In general, I think that people my age (around 30) are more into watches than the same age group -let’s say - 10 years ago, when the run on fine watches was already going on (since early 1990s). It probably also has something to do with clever marketing by the watch brands. When I browse through a random magazine that my girlfriend buys for example, I see big watch brands advertising for mechanical wrist watches for ladies. Watch advertisements are everywhere anyway, in all kinds of magazines, at events and some even have TV commercials. I don’t remember that this was the case 10 years ago, at least not in this quantity.

I also think it is more common these days to have more than one watch as opposite to former years, where you just bought one decent watch that had a write-off period equal to the rest of your years to live. And although not every watch buyer shares the same interest in watches as the average WatchUseek visitor, it seems to be commonly accepted that you have more than one nice watch.

Anyway, to get back to the first paragraph of my rant, some people don’t seem to care at all. No matter what amount of income they have. Some people drive cars of 100.000 euro but still wear a cheap plastic watch. Also from the perspective of durability I’d expect that more people wouldn’t buy disposable watches anymore. Brands like IWC advertise like crazy about their green production facility in Schaffhausen. Living durable and being aware of our precious environment should be reason enough to buy a durable wristwatch, preferably one with a mechanical movement.

Perhaps my surprise also comes from seeing these people wear expensive suits and shoes and on their wrist sits a plastic wristwatch. That does not make any sense to me. A matter of interest you might say, but it repels me everytime I am confronted with such a sight.

One of the solutions I can think of, besides indoctrination on a personal level, is to spread links to interesting articles about watches or ‘accidentally’ leave a watchmagazine here and there.

Bremont's Martin-Baker project

2009-08-17T20:21:00.006+01:00

Thinking of getting a pilot's watch? Consider the Bremont watches from the United Kingdom. Bremont is a relatively new watch brand from the U.K. by brothers Nick and Giles English. Both are professional aviators who have a passion for wrist watches.

Their latest watches are a joint venture between Bremont and Martin-Baker. Who? Martin-Baker, the world's longest established and most experienced manufacturer of ejection seats. For over 60 years, Martin-Baker has saved over 7,283 aircrew lives in more than 93 Air Forces.

The Bremont MB1 watch (the MB2 will follow later on) has to go through the following tests by Martin-Baker:

1. Catapult phase 12 - 15G

2. Rocket motor 12 - 15G

3. Drogue Stability 30G (600kt sled test)

4. Parachute deployment 15G

Furthermore, this watch will only be available to those who have ejected a Martin-Baker seat. Your ejection number will be engraved in the caseback of the MB1 watch. At first I thought this probably had something to do with the English sense of humour (which I like), but Bremont is dead serious about this. Luckily for the people who have some form of common sense, the MB2 will be available for the less brave buyers as well.

Bremont uses Soprod/ETA movements and have them chronometer certified (COSC = Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometeres). Bremont refers to their movements as BE-xx. These movements are assembled and tested in the watchfactory in Bienne / Switzerland. Unlike the other Bremont watches, the Martin-Baker models will be further assembled in the United Kingdom, making it a 'Made in Great Britain' pilot's watch.

The MB1 and MB2 watch both will feature the same caliber BE-36A movement, as written before, chronometer certified. The Trip-Tick case design is, like in the other Bremont watches, also used for these new models. The sapphire crystal is applied with 9 layers of anti-reflective coating as untreated crystals can allow light to reflect back, which has - in most cases - a negative effect on the legibility of the dial.

And the size? 43mm. In my opinion a very decent / acceptable size for a pilot's watch, especially when compared to the vintage looking pilot's watches that a few companies seem to produce these days. However, it is still a bit larger than its obvious competitors, like the IWC Mark XVI, which has a diameter of 39mm.

These watches are delivered on either a leather strap or the so-called NATO canvas strap. The Bremont MB1 watch will become available early November 2009 and has a £2,900 pricetag. Oh, and an ejection in a Martin-Baker ejectionseat.

Details on the price and availability of the MB2 are not yet available.

Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500 Watch

2009-08-10T09:41:00.008+01:00

The release of a true diver's watch is a stepping stone for most watch companies. The majority of serious watch makers today have at least one diving or nautical watch model. The ubiquitous Rolex Submariner, the luxurious Patek Philippe Nautilus, the historical Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the classic yet Modern Breguet Marine are all excellent examples of this concept. Now Switzerland based Angular Momentum meets this need with the release of (arguably) their first serious diving watch specially designed with unique features for ocean depth plummeting.

The new Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500 is a marvelous tool timepiece with a hip style and is Angular Momentum's ticket to acceptance from a whole new demographic of watch lovers. When combining the non-traditional artistic style of Angular Momentum with the functional needs of a diver's watch, the result is almost a modern classic which offers a total alternative to other modern dive watches. Instead of an overly complex and technical design, the Dive-Tec/500 is a step into refreshing simplicity. The timepiece stresses the four major needs of any diving watch: 1) telling the time, 2) being highly legible in low light and under water, 3) having a rotating diver's bezel, and 4) being able to survive the depths. Everything else is tangential, and probably better provided via other dive equipment. Take for example the mechanical depth gauge of certain luxury dive watches. Would you rely on them for accuracy over a trusted dive computer? Not likely. Instead, a timepiece is more valuable than a dive computer for telling the time. Not from an accuracy standpoint, but rather from a visibility standpoint. Find one dive computer that is as easy to see and read as the Dive-Tec/500. The case is 500 meters water resistant, while the large case and incredible luminant are heaven for under water clouded vision. See the large round screw placed on the bezel? That allows one to secure the bezel so that you do not accidentally turn the hefty ring which is done with 'fresh from the laser-cut' steel. The more raw finish to this component of the watch assists with grip and has an industrial look to it which enhances the watch's style. Other parts of the case are nicely polished.

Details for the Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500 are impressive. The case is 46mm wide by 17mm thick. In response to the fact that most diving watches are met with salty, not fresh water, the case is made from special 1.4435 NCu StayBrite steel. The higher than 316L grade stainless steel is specially resistant to the corrosive effects of prolonged exposure to salt water. As a matter of style, the crown of the Dive-Tec/500 watch is made in the form of a valve screw - a part found in most manners of life sustaining, air providing underwater equipment. In a brass tone, the crown is actually lemon gold coated steel.

Angular Momentum's ace in the sleeve is their proprietary Èmail Lumineuse luminant. A special formulation created by Angular Momentum, the compound is a mixture of enamel and high grade luminant material. As applied by Angular Momentum, Èmail Lumineuse is a superior luminating material able to sustain a light charge brightly for many hours. The Dive-Tec/500 employs two colors of Èmail Lumineuse for the best possible function and appearance. The compound is applied on the dial of the watch as well as in the bezel (plus optionally on the caseback).

To achieve 500 meters of water resistance, the Dive-Tec/500 uses a 3mm thick sapphire crystal on the front and rear of the watch. The crystal on the back is specially applied over the automatic mechanical Swiss movement, and comes available either clear, or with a layer of Èmail Lumineuse over it allowing for an additional glowing part of the timepiece. The sapphire crystal on the rear of the watch is the access point for the movement and must be removed by Angular Momentum or its dealers if the watch movement requires repair or servicing. The watch will arrive with a silicon or calf leather strap. Price will be around $7,500 with each of the limited production timepieces being manufactured at the Angular Momentum atelier in Switzerland.

By Ariel Adams