The three notable watches Breguet presented this week were the Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087, Classique Hora Mundi 5727, and Type XXI 3817.
With Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon, Breguet took a unique approach of developing a minute repeater around a predetermined sound. The sound was very audible even in a room with many journalists. The other worthy mention with exceptional sound this week is the Bvlgari minute repeater. Breguet is still putting the finishing touch on the watch, hence it will be available towards the end of the year.
Breguet developed sound generators and experimented with more than 200,000 combinations of frequencies, which they then classified into categories according to psychoacoustic criteria. Breguet filed for six new patents and five new innovative elements for the repetition mechanism. The gong springs coiled around the movement and horizontally struck by hammers, have been attached to the bezel and vertically struck by the hammers. By striking the gongs vertically from the movement towards the bezel, the hammers enhance the transmission of the vibrations towards radiating elements and then through the air.
The watch comes in a 44mm rose gold case and it costs $460k.
Hora Mundi makes a return this with the Classique Hora Mundi 5727. Unlike previous globe dial, the dial of this Hora Mundi features a “clou de Paris” hobnailing motif hand-crafted on a silvered gold dial. The 24-hour indicator is located between 3 and 4 o’clock. The hours and minutes are displayed by open-tipped hands which sweep around a chapter ring bearing Roman numerals transferred on a circular satin-brushed surface.
Its single pair of hands is linked to a mechanical memory located beneath the dial which is capable of keeping track of the time in two time zones. It is thus possible to adjust the local time and home time, and to display one or the other on demand. When the Hora Mundi switches from one time to another, the date, along with the day/night or 24-hour indication, are simultaneously adjusted. All this takes place without disturbing the rate of the watch, whose precision is maintained during time-setting by means of a stop-seconds system.
The watch comes in a 43mm case and is slightly slimmer than the previous version. Hora Mundi costs $68/$69k.
Type XXI 3817 chronograph features a slate grey dial. The latter has a finely fluted caseband and is water-resistant to 100 metres thanks to its screw-locked crown. It has an automatic movement with a flyback function similar to the Type XX chronograph.
Functions include a 12-hour counter and a date display at 6 o’clock. A day/night indicator and small seconds, positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. It features a see through caseback, which is an interesting interpretation as traditional Type XX watches have massive caseback.
It comes in a 42mm case and uses silicon balance spring and Swiss lever escapement with silicon pallets. Breguet Type XXI costs $13k.