Xetum is a new watch brand based in San Francisco, California with watches that are assembled in Switzerland. Arriving with two initial models, Xetum timepieces are modern in style with a designer twist. Brand emphasis is on simplicity without lacking in emotional substance. Xetum describes the aesthetic as "accessible modern design." Xetum is also about traditional watch making. It was important to founder Jeff Kuo that his watches feature quality Swiss movements in a package that was recognizable to watch lovers but unique at the same time. Xetum is also mindful of the environment, and from the start has inserted a number of ecologically friend policies and practices into the company as well as the watches.

I sat with Xetum's founder before the brand was launched to discuss the brand vision and prototypes. The watches are generously sized and invigorating in character, while being inviting in style. Jeff Kuo ensured that no detail was overlooked while the designs enjoyed continuous refinement. With the watches now available I can fully appreciate the quality of the models.


The entry level model is the Xetum Stinson, which is in steel and 40mm wide and 11mm thick. The case is designed without lugs to have the strap secure directly to the case for a more seamless look. It has an AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial with a choice of three dial colors (white, black or gray). The case is finished with a brushed polish while vertical strips are done in a mirror polish. The screw-down hexagonal crown is shaped like the brand's green hexagon logo. On the rear of the watch you can find a mineral glass display back looking into the Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. The dial is easy to read with ample sized hands and Arabic numerals while the major hour markers and hands are coated in SuperLumiNova.

Both watches have naturally tanned leather straps that have an eco-friendly Italian cork lining. The clasp is a push-button butterfly deployment that is signed with the Xetum logo.
The higher-end Xetum model is the Tyndall - another reference to a Bay Area locale - and features a Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement with an elaboree level of decoration. The Tyndall is also in steel and 40mm wide and a sapphire crystal. A complete hour scale up to 24 hours is located on the dial, which also features a subsidiary seconds dial for a more classic look. I enjoy the symmetrical design of the dial as well. The Tyndall is available with a black or off-white dial, both with SuperLumiNova on the hands and major hour indicators. Price for the Tyndall watch is $1,395. Available direct from Xetum.

By Ariel Adams

With splendid grace a new collection of timepiece from Chronoswiss and Jochen Benzinger combined, fully realizes the beauty potential of guilloche and hand engraving. These are the new Zeithzeichen watches, with three models and strictly limited numbers. The often admired art of dial movement engraving is easy to come by these days, but true masterwork is often reserved for the larger manufacture houses who can dedicate whole departments to such styles of decoration. Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and others each have models with engraved decorations, but they often choose between hand engraving or machine engraving (which in a sense is also done by hand as they are manually operated). For this reason I am so pleased to see that this line of watches actually uses both styles of decoration combined together for stunning results.

I've mentioned this in the past, but continue to be amused at the ironic name of Chronoswiss, as it has "Swiss" in the name, yet is a German watch brand. They have worked together (no doubt not for the first time) with the work shops of Jochen Benzinger - also in Germany - for the Zeitzeichen watch line. There are many models in the Zeitzeichen collection (limited to 33 pieces total) while the pictured watches are the CH 6721ZWV "V"(fully skeletonized floral design), the CH 6721ZWVI"VI" (retains some of the dial with floral designs on exposed areas), and the CH 6721ZWVII"VII" (fully skeletonized with dragon and stars decoration. Not only is each beautiful, but they showcase the roles that such styles of decoration can take in a luxury timepiece. For example, the Zeitzeichen epitomizes the results of a fully skeletonized watch using abstract decoration (typically floral or arabesque) designs cutting away as much of the movement as possible, while the Zeithzeichen VI retains a chapter ring with hour and minute markers that is itself guilloche engraved as well a ring for the subsidiary seconds dial. Here the functional elements of the watch are preserved while all unnecessary areas are reserved for engraving and movement visibility. Lastly there is the Zeitzeichen VII that presented a different execution of the theme. It uses movement engraving to illustrate a distinct scene or object. Here, it take the form of an Oriental style dragon again a backdrop of further decorated components much of which are in blued steel, some of which is coated with blued platinum. Other types of decoration include polishing and finishing such as the perlage polish which has been applied.The machines that Benzinger uses for such decoration are either highly maintained antiques, or specially made by their workshop. The base movements used for decoration are ETA 6498-1's that are modified and use material such as blue steel or platinum coated steel. The dials, if there are any are in sterling silver. The watches comes in 44mm wide cases that are in either 18k red or white gold, and diamond bezel decoration is also available. The watch case is standard Chronoswiss in design with straight lugs and the "onion" crown.

Each version of the limited edition of 33 pieces Zeithzeichen watches have the elaborate decorated movement, while some have more "complete" dials allowing for a more classic look. While a fully skeletonized dial is beautiful, it is not always easy to read. The collection is beautiful and a testament not only to German watch making, but the incredible results that can be achieved from guilloche machine and hand-done engraved decoration. Chronoswiss is a master of classically styled timepieces, while Benzinger is the clear champion of this type of decoration.

By Ariel Adams