SIHH 2015 – Audemars Piguet Live Report

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Audemars Piguet had one of the strongest showing at SIHH for both the ladies and men’s collection.

For ladies collection, AP unveiled a new hand-wound Millenary 5201 movement. It is a slim, elegant, and aesthetically balanced watch where the old world craftsmanship meets new world design. The balance wheel is revealed on the dial-side.

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CASE: 18-carat white gold case, entirely set with diamonds, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, crown set with a blue cabochon sapphire, water-resistant to 20 m.


DIAL: Diamond-paved white gold off-centred disc, anthracite printed Roman numerals, white mother-of-pearl small seconds counter with diamond-set ring, blued gold hands.


SETTING: 438 brilliant-cut diamonds ; ~1.93 carats (case, buckle). 136 brilliant-cut diamonds ; ~0.26 carats (dial).


BRACELET: “Large square scale” pearly dark grey alligator strap with diamond-set 18-carat white gold pin buckle. Additional black alligator strap.

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The Diamond Punk watch a bold statement from AP. This unique Haute Joaillerie cuff timepiece disrupts traditional ideas of gem-set watches and displays a true desire to break the rules, technically and creatively. Taking inspiration from the graphic design codes of the punk era, a rhythmical pattern of pyramid studs constructs a new Haute Joaillerie design language that resonates with creative energy. The Diamond Punk’s aesthetic is expertly considered and refined, in keeping with Audemars Piguet’s rich heritage of crafting exceptional jeweled timepieces.

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At the manufacture in Le Brassus, watchmakers, designers, jewelers, and gem-setters worked side by side, allowing Audemars Piguet freedom to create timepieces of unparalleled artistic expression. Diamond Punk is the result of 1,440 hours of work by these highly skilled designers and makers and is only made possible using traditional methods passed on through centuries of Haute Horlogerie practice. Hence, each jeweled watch becomes a unique work of art for the wrist, an avant-garde expression of the Manufacture’s horological expertise. Diamond Punk is powered by a quartz calibre 2601.

For the men’s collection, AP made one variation of the popular Royal Oak Offshore Divers, and the Royal Oak 15400. The classic mega tapisserie dial of the Royal Oak Offshore diver is given a sleek, new silver look, where for the first time Offshore Diver will bare a case back revealing its movement.

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CASE: Stainless steel case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black rubber-clad screw-locked crowns, water-resistant to 300 m.


DIAL: Siver-toned dial with “Mega Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating (black minutes hand), black or silver-toned rotating inner bezel with diving scale and zone from 60 to 15 minutes in black.


BRACELET: Black rubber strap with stainless steel pin buckle.

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The Royal Oak 15400 Two-Tone brings together stainless steel and pink gold paying a homage to the 1972 model. At first when I saw the two-tone in press presentation, I was not convinced that this would be very attractive. But, I was wrong! After trying it out in person, the pink gold makes it a very contemporary and handsome watch to wear. It looks nothing like the outdated two-tone gold and stainless steel colors we associate with grandpa’s hand-me-down watch.

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CASE: Stainless steel case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, 18-carat pink gold bezel, links and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m.


DIAL: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.


BRACELET: Stainless steel and 18-carat pink gold bracelet with stainless steel AP folding clasp.

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The Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Tourbillon Chronograph is bring a new 2897 calibre. The automatic winding system is driven by a peripheral oscillating weight made from satin-brushed, 950 platinum. It also has a precise column-wheel chronograph. As wonderful as the movement is, the case is a stunner. It is comprised of forged carbon, ceramic, titanium, and rubber. This is limited series of 50 editions.

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CASE: Forged carbon case, glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback with Royal Oak Offshore engraving, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, titanium pushpiece guards.DIAL: Black dial with “Mega Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, gold applied hour-markers and gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. Sapphire inner ring.
BRACELET: Black rubber with titanium pin buckle

I want to give a special acknowledgement to Michael L. Friedman, historian at Audemars Piguet. He is a walking encyclopedia of all the AP’s references and his technical knowledge is astounding. It was a pleasure to have a discussion with him.

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Michael L. Friedman

Photo: Scott Sitkeiwitz

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