Dress watches tend to have more refined features and, in most cases, thinner movements than their sporting counterparts. At the higher end they are usually made from precious metals but at the US$1,000 price point precious metal will not be found (plating, perhaps, but not actual gold cases due to cost restrictions). The proportions of dress watches are more sleek and slender, as they are designed to be worn with a business dress shirt, or under a sport coat or suit jacket.
You may disagree violently with us, but we believe the Swiss make the widest assortment and best quality dress watches in the category when looking specifically at the sub-$1,000 price bracket. This may be one of the key reasons why the Citizen Group decided to buy the likes of Frederique Constant, rather than trying to compete with the quality and sheer variety of their men’s dress watches.
The $1,000 price point is one of the most competitive in the entire watch universe and subsequently, all the major mid-level Swiss brands offer a vast and bewildering choice in office-appropriate watch wear. Here then is our refreshed list of (mainly Swiss) dress watches for just under $1,000 for 2019.
TISSOT BALLADE POWERMATIC 80 COSC
Tissot’s range of affordable dress watches is nothing short of staggering. On one Baselworld visit it took over half an hour just to go through the various ranges, never mind individual watches. The 41mm Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 is set to become one of Tissot’s classic watches, with a sophisticated but timeless style. This piece cuts a smart silhouette with the polished finish, revealing a satiny effect and the Clou de Paris dial, and is powered by the much-admired Powermatic 80 automatic movement from ETA. Thanks to the silicon balance spring this COSC certified chronometer movement is extremely precise. It won’t look out of place by day or by night. The watch sells for $610.50.
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT SLIMLINE
Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant, now owned by the Citizen Group, has taken the mid-range dress watch market by storm with a huge choice of watches in various metals to suit every pocket. The Slimline series was created with a focus on elegance and timelessness. With a modestly sized 40mm stainless steel case, subtle silver dial, applied indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and a nicely framed date window, this self-winding dress watch will look just as good in 30 years as it does today. It’s also a relative bargain, on offer for $790.
RADO COUPOLE CLASSIC
RADO better known for their ceramic watches, but for this stainless steel automatic watch they have created what is a rather cool dress watch classic. Dress watches don’t come much simpler. It’s a 38mm 3 hander with a clean silvered sunray dial and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by a Rado Calibre 763, (an ETA C07.611 base), meaning we’re once again looking at a significant 80-hour power reserve. The watch comes on a black leather strap with a deployment clasp, and comes in at just a touch below our $1k price cap.
For someone more interested in blurring the lines between dress watch and casual daily wear, the Longines Conquest is a safe bet. At 43mm across it has more wrist presence than many of its competitors, but can still pass under a shirt cuff with ease. Powered by the brand’s L157 Quartz caliber, it doesn’t have the same novelty of the large power reserve automatics we keep seeing from the Swatch Group otherwise, but opting for this movement means it’s an easy grab-and-go watch that won’t require fussing/setting after a week or more on the dresser.
HAMILTON AMERICAN SPIRIT OF LIBERTY AUTO
Maybe this will get you all emotional, but the Spirit of Liberty stands tall and proud in these automatic models that draw on the classic American style Hamilton originally established in Lancaster, Pennsylvania 1892. Hamilton watches have American spirit aplenty but they are all Swiss made. This 42mm watch with a date window at 6 o’clock, is powered by the H-10 automatic movement with up to 80 hours power reserve. By now you will have probably surmised that House of Swatch, who owns Hamilton, Rado, Longines, Tissot and many more, like to use the same movement over and over and call it by a different name so you don’t notice. The watch comes in just under the wire at US$995.
SEIKO PRESAGE STAR BAR SAKURA FUBUKI SARY091 STARLIGHT COCKTAIL
Seiko introduced their Seiko Cocktail watches in 2010 in Japan, and they continue to be extremely popular, and not a little difficult to get hold of. You often have more luck in sourcing them from Singapore. This particular model is a limited edition of 3500 pieces. The Caliber 4R57 movement has a power reserve of 42 hours with a date display subdial at 6 o’clock. There is also a power reserve indicator which runs from 12 up to 4 o’clock when the watch is fully charged. The watch is currently selling on eBay for US$658.
If you can’t find a contemporary dress watch that answers your brief, you could always look to the past. The Seiko Marvel is a beauty from the 1950s and clean examples can be found well below the $1,000 mark. Seiko is especially proud of the movement in this watch, as is the first Seiko movement to be designed fully in-house from scratch. The “Diashock” shock absorption system used in these watches was superior to that of its predecessors, as well as that of other Japanese watches of the 1950s era.
STOWA ANTEA SILVER
Having said the Swiss make the best dress watches in this price point, we had to include an offering from German brand Stowa. Probably best known for their Fliegers, Stowa also makes this wonderfully simple Bauhaus inspired dress watch. This modestly sized 35.5mm dress piece has been produced by Stowa since 2000, although the brand was making Bauhaus style watches since 1937. Made from stainless steel and water-resistant to 30 meters, the watch runs on a Peseux/ETA 7001 hand-winding movement with 42 hours power reserve.