The new Breguet Classique 5177 presents the Breguet blue for the first time in a grand feu enamel. This unique color affirms the beauty and simplicity of the Breguet style in a contemporary register.
In the eighteenth century, an age known more for baroque exuberance, Abraham-Louis Breguet favored refined aesthetics. This simplicity eventually style seduced the elite. In 2019, the new Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel is inspired by these neoclassical lines. However, Breguet adds a fresh new touch this time, with the color of the blued hands being transposed onto the dial; presenting a deep blue grand feu enamel.
The hue of the dial echoes the color obtained during the bluing of the Breguet hands. To guarantee this exact hue throughout the production process, the development of the pigments called for extensive research. The color needs to remain perfectly stable during firing at over 800 degrees Celsius. This is required to create a grand feu enamel, lending it a unique grain.
To ensure ease of readability, the moon-tipped hands, which are made of rhodium-plated steel, stand out against the blue background, while the Arabic numerals, stars, diamond shapes and a fleur-de-lis on the chapter ring are silvered and are larger in size.
The date figures are treated using the same process in order to aid visibility, due to the positioning of the aperture that sits in a darkened lower level window. Finally, Breguet’s secret signature, also in enamel, appears at 6 o’clock.
For all of its timepieces with an enamel dial, the House of Breguet continues to use the calligraphy once drawn by Abraham-Louis Breguet, as featured, for example, on the self-winding Breguet No. 15 watch launched in 1787.
The Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel is powered by the self-winding 777Q mechanical caliber, the central second hand and the date are at 3 o’clock. Current technological advances such as the use of silicon for the lever and escape wheel optimize reliability. But at the same time, other elements of this caliber, in particular, the form of the wheels, are reminiscent of Breguet’s creations from the late eighteenth century.
The rotor is engine-turned 18-karat gold and can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Similarly, each of the components – visible or invisible – is delicately finished with techniques such as chamfering, circular graining, and brushing, or with the côtes de Genève.
The 777Q caliber fits into a slim case in white gold with fluted sides. True to the Breguet style, the lugs are welded and rounded toward the midnight blue alligator leather strap.
Finally, an individual number is engraved on the back of each watch, marking it unique to its owner. In turn, the owner can have their name recorded in the Breguet registers that have been kept since 1780 – as a contemporary sign of their taste for timeless elegance.
Case: round in 18-karat white gold with finely fluted caseband. Sapphire-crystal caseback. Rounded lugs welded to the case, with screw pins securing the strap. 38mm diameter. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial: Grand Feu blue enamel, with Breguet secret signature. Chapter ring with Breguet Roman numerals. Centre seconds and date aperture at 3 o’clock. Open-tipped Breguet hands in rhodium-plated steel.
Movement: mechanical self-winding, adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, Cal. 777Q. Numbered and signed Breguet. 55-hour power reserve. 18-carat oscillating weight in 18k gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Stop seconds. 12 lignes. 26 jewels. In-line Swiss lever escapement, escape wheel and lever in silicon. Silicon balance-spring. Breguet balance-wheel with 4 regulating screws. 4Hz frequency. Adjusted in 6 positions.
Strap: in dark blue alligator leather with a pin buckle in white gold.
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