As DOXA announced last week, they have, as of this month, taken back control over the name and website for the brand so that it will be handled directly henceforth from DOXA HQ in Switzerland. While still owned by the Jenny family (who bought the brand 20 years ago), DOXA doesn’t merely wish to bring sales and customer experience back in-house, but rather grab the reins and take command in terms of thought leadership company wide.

Their new website is now up and running with the long-term goal of fostering direct relationships with their clients/collectors, and alongside this news the first of an expected series of watch releases has landed—the DOXA Sub 200 T.Graph 130th Anniversary Limited Edition.




DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph 130th Anniversary Edition in 316L Stainless Steel

It’s an adventure that began 130 years ago, and to celebrate, DOXA is following on from the success of the limited edition 130th Anniversary series in 18K gold which was presented at Baselworld 2019 and limited to only 13 pieces, and now release the SUB 200 T.GRAPH in stainless steel in a more generous limited edition of 300 pieces.

When the SUB was first launched in Baselworld in 1967, the concept was seen as revolutionary. It was the first diver intentionally designed for use by the general public, even though diving and scuba as a sport and leisure pursuit had taken hold in the States and Europe as early as the 1950s.

Ironically, the new watch quickly became a favorite with professionals as well as the general public. With water-resistance to 300 meters, it was the first dive watch to feature a patented rotating bezel with the official no-decompression dive table.

And then there was the introduction of the now-famous orange dial. At the time it was believed this color was most visible and legible to the human eye while deep underwater. OK, that theory has been pretty much been debunked, but as an instantly recognizable dive watch legend, it’s right up there with the Rolex Submariner. It achieved instant and lasting stand out from the more traditional black or white background even though there have been many imitators since. In 1969, the SUB concept was further refined with the introduction of the DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH.




The new 130th edition SUB 200 T. GRAPH has a diameter of 43 mm, with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and an anti-reflective coating.

Faithful to the original, the 130th Anniversary DOXA SUB 200 T. GRAPH in 316L stainless steel features a semi-matte orange dial with two counters: There’s the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph dial at 3 o’clock. The no-decompression unidirectional rotating bezel features the time numbering in black, the depth in orange and a SuperLuminova pearl at 12 o’clock.  These dual indications of dive time in minutes and depth in meters help to calculate dive time without decompression stops.

Both the baton-type hands and the insert on the chronograph’s seconds hand are filled with a SuperLuminova treatment known as beige “Light Old Radium.” The SUB 200 T.GRAPH’s characteristic indices, painted in black, are filled with SuperLuminova beige “Light Old Radium” as well.

The new limited-edition stainless-steel SUB 200 runs on the original VALJOUX 7734 calibers preserved by the Jenny family for over 30 years and which are also employed in the limited-edition gold version of the SUB 200 T-GRAPH. Each movement has been completely revised and tested for reliability and accuracy prior to fitting. This hand-wound chronograph is the date version of the Valjoux 7730/33 produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s and has a power reserve of 45 hours.

The anniversary Sub 200 T. Graph watch comes on another key DOXA identifier, the wonderful “grains of rice” bracelet, crafted from 316L steel complete with a folding clasp with diving extension and the DOXA fish symbol.

The watch will sell for around US$5,500. If you wish to buy the watch online you will need to wait until September 2nd.


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