Hamilton is on a roll this year with some tempting tool watches in the below $1,000 category. We recently wrote about the release of the 37mm Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical. Yesterday, Hamilton teamed up with Schott NYC on a bold 46mm green-dial Pilot watch. Hamilton must have read the comments on the Watchuseek Hamilton forum about the 37mm hand-winding watch being too small. We hope said WUS forum members have renewed their gym memberships for the requisite upper body workout necessary to sport a 46mm pilot watch…
For those of you not familiar with Schott NYC, the atelier was founded in 1913 in Manhattan’s Lower East Side by Irving Schott, who was the first American designer to put a zipper on a jacket and supplied the US military with parkas and aviator bomber jackets during World War II. Now run by the third and fourth generations of the Schott family, today, Schott NYC produces classic military-inspired outerwear and accessories. And, considering Hamilton and Schott were both suppliers for the American military during the 1940s, the synergy was there for a collaboration on a military-themed watch.
The Khaki Pilot has a 46mm polished steel case and a military green “Type B” dial. The Type B dial is inspired by a WWII Flieger watch with big minute numerals from 5 to 55 on the chapter ring, and a small sub-chapter ring with hour numerals. The wide skeletonized hands are filled with contrasting light green Super-LumiNova. (The numbers also get a coating of light green lume.)
The day and date on a white wheel appear stark in contrast and out of place; however, I can see the practical reason behind a day-date complication. Besides the day-date, my only other gripe is with the polished case—a matte or sandblasted case would have been better suited.
Hamilton used the H-30 automatic day-date movement with 80 hours of power reserve. The H-30 movement is based on ETA 2836-2 where the entire kinematic chain has been refined, from the barrel to the escapement—the main spring has been improved to increase the power reserve to 80 hours, and the mono-block rotor is distinctively skeletonized with an “H” shape. Hamilton and ETA are both part of the Swatch Group.
Schott NYC has specially selected each piece of top grain, full aniline, lightweight steerhide leather to create the band for the 1,892 limited edition pieces. The Federal Standard military color 30099 Earth Brown watch straps are made from the same leather used for flight jackets during the war (and to this day). The leather band starts life stiff and sturdy and will naturally age to become softer.
This limited edition will be presented in a specially-crafted leather case made exclusively by Schott NYC for Hamilton. The case is sewn by hand using traditional techniques at the Schott factory in Union, New Jersey. The folding case is lined with plaid, heavyweight brushed cotton and features side entry pockets, plus a card holder for travel. The retail price of the Khaki Pilot Schott NYC is $1,145.
Case: 46 mm stainless steel
Dial: Khaki green dial
Hands: Nickeled hour, minute and seconds hands with light green Super-LumiNova
Movement: H-30 automatic day-date movement with 80-hour power reserve
Strap: FS30099 Earth Brown top grain steerhide leather strap made by Schott NYC
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 200m