Oh, the waffle that is writ when an expensive fluidic watch brand partners with an extravagant men’s style website or ‘destination’ as Mr. Porter prefers to call itself.
HYT has produced a limited-edition piece in cahoots with Mr. Porter and the resulting watch is called the H1.0 x MR PORTER Limited Edition. It’s described as ‘a celebration of seamless cooperation between like-minded partners, and between mechanics and fluids’. Both brands have been on the scene for about the same amount of time. Mr. Porter was founded in 2011 while HYT was established in 2012.
The new piece, based on the H1.0 model, is said to share the same values as those of Mr. Porter by ‘visually translating the dynamism of time’s constant motion’. The H1.0 model, from Swiss hydromechanical watchmakers HYT, was launched last year and is designed to offer the wearer all-round three-dimensional transparency. In other words, when viewed from any angle all elements of the mechanical movement are visible from the power reserve display to the constructed wheel that indicates the flow of the seconds.
Where Mr. Porter’s expensive designer clothing brands may be easy to appreciate, the H1.0 is a horological headbanger that takes time to fully comprehend. While it operates very much like any other mechanical watch, the HYT H1.0 incorporates a black fluid in conjunction with transparent Super-Luminova C7 to display the time. And the intricate movement employs thermal compensators, so-called borosilicate capillary tubes and HYT’s signature bellows extractors to pump the fluid precisely around the dial.
The timekeeping concept harks back to the very earliest days of timekeeping when clocks were powered by the flow of water. But unlike the earliest water clocks, the H1.0 is not powered by gravity, but by hydromechanics, where pressurizing the liquid precisely controls the rate at which it’s allowed to depressurize. Energy is routed through the gear trains to operate the two bellows. The left-hand bellow pumps the liquid through the capillary tube, while the bellow on the right sucks the clear liquid in. Time is indicated by the liquid’s precise arrival at each hour marker on the case. The black-face features sub-dials that showcase minutes, running seconds and power reserve. The H1.0 runs on a hand-wound Cal 401 movement developed by movement makers Chronode. It has a 65-hour power reserve.
Predominantly moody Mr. Porter black on black with white indices and numerals, if you’re looking for an elegant watch to tuck under your shirt cuff, the HYT H1.0 Mr. Porter ain’t it. It’s a 48.8mm weighty whopper deliberately designed for showing off and attracting plenty of (probably mainly male) attention. It rises fully 20.08mm from the wrist, and apart from seeing the fascination of the mechanics at work, there are fiery red touches on the dial and side of the case. The Super-LumiNova® ensures ease of visibility for the passing of time.
Available exclusively through the Mr. Porter website, this limited-edition watch will set you back US$53,000. It comes on a black rubber strap with a titanium folding-buckle clasp.
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