The ‘very rare’ H. Moser & Cie is an independent, Swiss, family-run business. It’s true that being both independent and family-run is a rare phenomenon these days. With few exceptions, most Swiss brands these days are part of a much larger conglomerate. Name a Swiss watch brand, practically any Swiss watch brand apart from Rolex, Oris, Raymond Weil and of course Moser, and the chances are it is owned by one of the big three conglomerates; Swatch, LVMH or Richemont.
H. Moser & Cie has its origins in Schaffhausen, also home to Richemont owned IWC, and in fact, was located in Schaffhausen several years before IWC. H. Moser & Cie moved to Le Locle in the 1950s, but in 2005 it was brought back to a brand-new manufacture in Schaffhausen where it still resides. In 2006 H. Moser & Cie introduced their Perpetual Calendar which won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix for that year.
Now, for the first time in its history, H. Moser has introduced a perpetual calendar with two windows displaying the date and month.
The idea behind this new development to be able to offer better viewing of the Flash Calendar function which enables the wearer to change the date at any time of the day, forwards or backward, with no risk to the movement.
THE NEW PIONEER PERPETUAL CALENDAR MD
Part of the Pioneer collection introduced in 2015, the brand’s new perpetual calendar with dual date and month window display is available in two models with bold colors.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD in Funky Blue
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD in Burgundy
There’s what Moser & Cie describe as ‘Funky Blue’ with traditional indexes and markers; while the second color choice, Burgundy, is brand-new. Featuring a fume dial, it’s been stripped right back so that almost all of the indications except for the dots that mark the hours have been taken away. An offset small second sits at 6 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, along with the leap year cycle indicator, which is discreetly concealed on the movement side. The leaf-shaped hands are partially skeletonized and filled with Superluminova®, as are the hour marker dots on the flange.
The 42.8mm perpetual calendar watch is powered by a new H. Moser in-house movement, the HMC 808. Based on the HMC 341, it’s a hand-wound movement which displays the month through a window on the dial rather than a hand. This movement has an ample power reserve of at least seven days thanks to its double barrel. A complex movement, it offers Hours, Minutes, Day/Night Indication, Hacking Small Seconds, a Power Reserve Indicator, Leap Year, Month, Perpetual Calendar, and Big Date all in one package.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD is encased in water-resistant stainless steel and is tested to 120 meters. You would normally expect such a high-end complication to be housed in a case of precious metal but H. Moser says it would prefer this stainless-steel watch to be worn as an everyday piece. The case-back is of see-through sapphire crystal.
Both watches come on a choice of alligator leather or a rubber strap and, even in stainless steel, will retail for a hefty $39,900.