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Dabrador

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Would like some input on why my watch stops. I have a Tissot Couturier T035.410.11.031.00 quartz. Below is a stock photo of my watch. At around 11:40pm my watch will stop about once every week and a half. Just prior to this strange development, the date wouldn't fully change to the next number each evening. I would have to pull the crown slightly to cause the date window to 'flip' completely to the next number.

Do you think there's any connection to the watch stopping when it's about ready to change to the next date number? Is something getting 'caught' in the mechanism that might be the source of this issue? I know nothing of the inner workings of a watch so I'm looking for some insight from those that do.

I'd like to have a bit of knowledge before I take it to a jeweler.

Thanks everyone.
 
#2 ·
As it's a quartz watch, I could at first think that the battery is weak so the movement doesn't have enough of torque to turn the date disc. If the battery is new or the watch has EOL feature that can tell you when the battery is weak, then the date mechanism might have been somehow stuck from time to time.

I'm a professional [desk] diver.
 
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#4 ·
Well a quartz watch is designed to be reliable and accurate. Your watch is currently unreliable which could lead you to real life problem.

Personally I would bring the watch to a watchmaker to have it checked. It could be the battery or worse, the movement itself.

I'm a professional [desk] diver.
 
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#5 ·
Change the battery and if that doesn't help, then change the movement. If I'm right in thinking that it's not a particularly expensive movement (only one I've needed was a $15 Seiko movement) then without much pain you effectively end up with a new watch.
 
#6 ·
I would have guessed that the battery had got enough energy to make the hands go round and not activate the EOL indicator but does not have enough get up and go to change the date. It may be most cost effective to change the battery first to see if that sets things right and if the problem persists take it to a watchmaker to look at.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I would only advise that you have someone who understands watches change out the battery. In some cases this may not be the person working the counter in a jewelers shop. I'm guessing this watch may have been bought second hand? If so you would have no idea what battery is in there, how old or even if it is correct for the watch.

I used to have a jeweler in Wasilla replace the battery in an old (1993) Swiss Army for me every 2 years. I did this because the case back was the pop off type and I don't have a press to properly reseat it. After the last time I went there for a change about 3 years ago the watch acted just like you describe. I took it to a 'real watch repairman' in Anchorage and ask him to have a look.

I was present and what was found was amazing. The jeweler in Wasilla did not have the correct battery so he used what he had............ It was too small to stay in place and in contact so a piece of 'Scotch Tape' had been used to hold the battery into the contact receptacle!

Think about that a moment; he taped the battery fast and put the case back on! I still have the battery with tape affixed in the console of my truck, I thought I'd take it back and ask for my 20 dollars back but never did. I never did buy a case press because this is the only watch with a snap back I own. I take it to Alex for batteries and he will replace the O ring gasket while he's at it, he charges me 15.00 for this. Funny thing, I know much more about what makes an automat work or not work than I do quartz..............
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Ard said:
I would only advise that you have someone who understands watches change out the battery. In some cases this may not be the person working the counter in a jewelers shop. I'm guessing this watch may have been bought second hand? If so you would have no idea what battery is in there, how old or even if it is correct for the watch.

I used to have a jeweler in Wasilla replace the battery in an old (1993) Swiss Army for me every 2 years. I did this because the case back was the pop off type and I don't have a press to properly reseat it. After the last time I went there for a change about 3 years ago the watch acted just like you describe. I took it to a 'real watch repairman' in Anchorage and ask him to have a look.

I was present and what was found was amazing. The jeweler in Wasilla did not have the correct battery so he used what he had............ It was too small to stay in place and in contact so a piece of 'Scotch Tape' had been used to hold the battery into the contact receptacle!

Think about that a moment; he taped the battery fast and put the case back on! I still have the battery with tape affixed in the console of my truck, I thought I'd take it back and ask for my 20 dollars back but never did. I never did buy a case press because this is the only watch with a snap back I own. I take it to Alex for batteries and he will replace the O ring gasket while he's at it, he charges me 15.00 for this. Funny thing, I know much more about what makes an automat work or not work than I do quartz..............
Click to expand...
Thank you for the great feedback. This watch also has a pop off case back. Now I'm wondering how to find the right place to change the battery. I went online and did a search for an authorized Tissot dealer and was planning on taking the watch there for the battery replacement. Should I ask for the old battery? Do I insist on watching the jeweler replace the battery?
 
#10 · (Edited)
I own this same watch and strangely enough am also having a problem with the date wheel not fulling clicking into position. The hands aren't stopping like yours though. I've discovered that the date wheel appears to be two parts. If you look at it closely when it changes from 16 to 17 you'll notice that the wheel from 17 onwards overlaps the one from 1-16. It's weird, not something I've seen before. So, for me, the date works fine from the 1st till the 16th, but from the 17th onwards it sits just off correct alignment. I never considered inadequate battery power as a likely cause, but will change it now and see if that helps. I assumed that since the date wheel(s) appear to be tiered that the higher one was meeting some resistance.
This thread has motivated me now. I'm popping the back off today and taking a look at its innards. Will be buying a new battery too. Good luck with yours.
 
#11 ·
DuncanP said:
I own this same watch and strangely enough am also having a problem with the date wheel not fulling clicking into position. The hands aren't stopping like yours though. I've discovered that the date wheel appears to be two parts. If you look at it closely when it changes from 16 to 17 you'll notice that the wheel from 17 onwards overlaps the one from 1-16. It's weird, not something I've seen before. So, for me, the date works fine from the 1st till the 16th, but from the 17th onwards it sits just off correct alignment. I never considered inadequate battery power as a likely cause, but will change it now and see if that helps. I assumed that since the date wheel(s) appear to be tiered that the higher one was meeting some resistance.
This thread has motivated me now. I'm popping the back off today and taking a look at its innards. Will be buying a new battery too. Good luck with yours.
Click to expand...
Please take a photo of the movement so we can know what movement is used on this model and its price if a movement swap must take place.

I'm a professional [desk] diver.
 
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#12 ·
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#13 · (Edited)
lvt said:
Please take a photo of the movement so we can know what movement is used on this model and its price if a movement swap must take place.

I'm a professional [desk] diver.
Click to expand...
DuncanP said:
I own this same watch and strangely enough am also having a problem with the date wheel not fulling clicking into position. The hands aren't stopping like yours though. I've discovered that the date wheel appears to be two parts. If you look at it closely when it changes from 16 to 17 you'll notice that the wheel from 17 onwards overlaps the one from 1-16. It's weird, not something I've seen before. So, for me, the date works fine from the 1st till the 16th, but from the 17th onwards it sits just off correct alignment. I never considered inadequate battery power as a likely cause, but will change it now and see if that helps. I assumed that since the date wheel(s) appear to be tiered that the higher one was meeting some resistance.
This thread has motivated me now. I'm popping the back off today and taking a look at its innards. Will be buying a new battery too. Good luck with yours.
Click to expand...
watch-newbie said:
Official Tissot Website - Watches - T-Classic - TISSOT COUTURIER - T0354101103100

From what I can see it's the ETA F06.161 movement.

ETA Trendline F06.161Â.❘ ETA SA

I found one on ebay for $30.

ETA Swiss Movement F06 161 Unbranded Gold 100 New | eBay
Click to expand...
Watch-newbie is correct about the type of movement.

I opened mine to check the battery but stopped short at removing the hands and dial (don't want to ruin it). Battery is reading a strong 1.58v so I don't think that it is the problem. I'd prefer not to spend any money on it but it looks like it might require a trip to my watchmaker. Luckily he's pretty cheap.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
DuncanP said:
I own this same watch and strangely enough am also having a problem with the date wheel not fulling clicking into position. The hands aren't stopping like yours though. I've discovered that the date wheel appears to be two parts. If you look at it closely when it changes from 16 to 17 you'll notice that the wheel from 17 onwards overlaps the one from 1-16. It's weird, not something I've seen before. So, for me, the date works fine from the 1st till the 16th, but from the 17th onwards it sits just off correct alignment. I never considered inadequate battery power as a likely cause, but will change it now and see if that helps. I assumed that since the date wheel(s) appear to be tiered that the higher one was meeting some resistance.
This thread has motivated me now. I'm popping the back off today and taking a look at its innards. Will be buying a new battery too. Good luck with yours.
Click to expand...
Yes! I've noticed that about the date wheel. It appears to be different wheels from the 17th onward. Just this morning, I had to adjust the date slightly so that the number appears correctly in the window.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
DuncanP said:
Battery is reading a strong 1.58v so I don't think that it is the problem. I'd prefer not to spend any money on it but it looks like it might require a trip to my watchmaker. Luckily he's pretty cheap.
Click to expand...
If you don't mind, let me know what your watchmaker determines. I don't have one and have to rely on a local authorized dealer for any type of service.
 
#17 ·
DuncanP said:
Not sure about the one he found on eBay though as it appears to be a 6 o'clock date. The Op's and mine are clearly 3 o'clockers.
Click to expand...
I was also on the eta webpage and they only allow sales of a minimum of 100 pieces. It's clear they don't want the average joe buying these.

That is the same movement just withstand different date placement. The point is that it's not an expensive movement and your watchmaker will be able to get it working again for a reasonable price.
 
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Dabrador
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