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Discussion starter · #41 ·
As others have suggested, the Traska Commuter seems to be the best fit. While it certainly takes its cues from the Rolex OP, it is far from a clone (I own both). With it you also get a lot of features not always found on similar watches in this price range like scratch resistant coating, fully articulating bracelet with 4 micro-adjust holes, box dome sapphire, high beat Japanese movement, and exceptional lume. The Traska Ventura or Summiteer are other options with the same features. I have bought 3 different Traska watches because I was so impressed by the value of my first one.
I agree the bang for your buck is high with Traska. What I do like about the OP look is that it is such a great balance between sport and dressy, though I've never had a high affinity for baton hands.
 
Christopher Ward has several to consider. The C65 Sandhurst looks really nice, more of a field watch dial arrangement but otherwise fits what you are looking for. The C63 Sealander is slightly larger at 39mm but with a short lug to lug, and comes in several colors, a GMT, etc.
 
Someone posted further up about the Captain from Cincinnati. These are cool watches and good value propositions. Not exactly the style I’m looking for, but they’re cool. They just need more WR.
Just curious, why would you need more than 5 atmospheres of water resistance for a sports watch?

Unless you’re just looking for niggles to keep you from buying another watch I don’t understand why a depth rating past 160 feet is necessary for a watch that might go down 5 - 10 feet under water.
 
Just curious, why would you need more than 5 atmospheres of water resistance for a sports watch?

Unless you’re just looking for niggles to keep you from buying another watch I don’t understand why a depth rating past 160 feet is necessary for a watch that might go down 5 - 10 feet under water.
Not to derail but 50m WR doesn't mean it can go down 50m.

To me, a proper modern 'sport' watch should probably be 100m. This also means thicker steel and a more robust construction. I have some pretty dainty dress watches with 50m that I don't trust near water.

In a place like the UK where it's wet and rainy half the time, I think 100m offers peace of mind for a GADA watch. Going over 100m is unnecessary though, unless you plan to swim often with it.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Just curious, why would you need more than 5 atmospheres of water resistance for a sports watch?

Unless you’re just looking for niggles to keep you from buying another watch I don’t understand why a depth rating past 160 feet is necessary for a watch that might go down 5 - 10 feet under water.
It’s funny but despite my “niggle” as you say, I’m actually thinking about picking up one of those Captains. They’re just so darn cool. It would be nice to have an auto or handwind in this kind of watch, but oh well. And this isn’t what I set out to find either, which is part of the fun of these types of threads. I think at bottom I’m always looking for that “one watch that will rule them all,” that mythical GADA, which drives my desire for the perfect classic sports watch.
Regarding WR, I think 100m just gives me a sense of comfort in a worst case scenario type of situation. I am otherwise never in the water and if I was, wouldn’t be wearing a watch. I know it makes no sense but neither does the rest of this site.
 
Longines just released some new 37mm Spirit models. May be worth a look.

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Not to derail but 50m WR doesn't mean it can go down 50m.
No? What does it mean then?

Most manuals that I've read for 5ATM watches specifically call them out as being acceptable for swimming.

To me, a proper modern 'sport' watch should probably be 100m. This also means thicker steel and a more robust construction. I have some pretty dainty dress watches with 50m that I don't trust near water.
To me, a proper sports watch should be made to knock around and adding unnecessary weight raises the likelihood of damage when subjected to shocks. Heavier is not better in this category IMO.

What does the manufacturer say about their 50m rating on your dress watches? Not trusting a 5ATM watch near water seems extreme to me.

In a place like the UK where it's wet and rainy half the time, I think 100m offers peace of mind for a GADA watch. Going over 100m is unnecessary though, unless you plan to swim often with it.
And here I think is where my disconnect really happens; 100m of water resistance to deal with weather. I mean, what?

If you don't trust the manufacturer of their water fastness and want peace of mind why not just have it pressure tested?

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Anyway, thanks for your response OP! Sorry for the derail.
 
I've had 2
No? What does it mean then?

Most manuals that I've read for 5ATM watches specifically call them out as being acceptable for swimming.



To me, a proper sports watch should be made to knock around and adding unnecessary weight raises the likelihood of damage when subjected to shocks. Heavier is not better in this category IMO.

What does the manufacturer say about their 50m rating on your dress watches? Not trusting a 5ATM watch near water seems extreme to me.



And here I think is where my disconnect really happens; 100m of water resistance to deal with weather. I mean, what?

If you don't trust the manufacturer of their water fastness and want peace of mind why not just have it pressure tested?

---

Anyway, thanks for your response OP! Sorry for the derail.
Do said manuals say you can go scuba diving with a 50m watch? (they don't) Going 50m deep is advanced diving and not recommended for 50m WR watches.

My watchmaker generally advises against swimming with a 50m WR watch, though I'm aware many brands say it's ok. The 50m dress watch I mentioned recommends against swimming (Stowa).

I'm just going off my experience. I've had a 50m WR watch leak without swimming, just from wearing it daily in all weather conditions (may have been briefly submerged at some point, don't recall). 50m watches also generally don't feel like they can take a beating like 100m watches.
 
No? What does it mean then?
It's a pressure rating. It's how much pressure is needed to overcome the tightness of the gaskets. 50m is shorthand for 5atm or 5 times normal atmospheric pressure. At 50m underwater you're quite likely to encounter pressure higher than that.

30m is only 3 times normal pressure which basically means the gaskets are rain proof and that's about it.

5atm WR is probably OK for surface level swimming, as long as you don't do it often or for very long, or subject the watch to sudden high pressure like hitting it against the water surface while splashing around.

10atm is a good baseline for something I would comfortably wear in the pool or at the beach without worrying about it. If you're doing serious breathing-assisted diving you should go with at least 20atm.
 
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Do you mean something like that?

View attachment 16519109
Yeah. Thought about it but with taxes, duty, vat and whatever else I'd have to pay, it gets kinda pricey unfortunately. I don't know, Its still in the books. I know a mod is around 400 bucks in Europe, and I wont pay anything extra except shipping which would be relatively cheap. The Traska would be around 700 at least after everything. The bigger problem is that I'm also thinking about something quartz for a true gada type watch and that's even harded to find especially at this dimensions.
 
I've had 2

Do said manuals say you can go scuba diving with a 50m watch? (they don't) Going 50m deep is advanced diving and not recommended for 50m WR watches.

My watchmaker generally advises against swimming with a 50m WR watch, though I'm aware many brands say it's ok. The 50m dress watch I mentioned recommends against swimming (Stowa).

I'm just going off my experience. I've had a 50m WR watch leak without swimming, just from wearing it daily in all weather conditions (may have been briefly submerged at some point, don't recall). 50m watches also generally don't feel like they can take a beating like 100m watches.
We've had very different experiences, mine centered on Seiko and Shinola with no disappointments.

Glad to hear we agree on reading the manufacturers manuals to understand their specification. It's disappointing to hear how little their "spec" matches reality; 3atm ought to mean 3 bar water fastness.

In my experience the best sport watches are the ones that disappear on the wrist, do their job and don't break while I do things like sweat, get dirty and bump into stuff.

Thanks for sharing your experience, appreciate the head's up.
 
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