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Basem Wasef

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Ask an enthusiast what excites them about timepieces, and they’re likely to wax poetic about the magic of tiny mechanical components which are nowhere to be found in solid state electronics like the Apple Watch. While those intricate inner workings are usually displayed through clear casebacks or small dial windows that display turning gears and whirring rotors, Perrelet’s Turbine Carbon delivers a different twist: a large, rotor-like element that spins behind the crystal.

If you caught my Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date review, you saw a Perrelet that takes a more subtle approach to the idea of moving parts on display, despite its rather complicated dial design. This time around, Perrelet’s formula leverages a more avant-garde design approach with an arguably higher concept execution. Like the Big Date, the Turbine Carbon uses the brand’s in-house SOPROD movement, which is assembled in Biel/Bienne Switzerland and is a part of the brand’s Spain-based Festina group. But before we get into the weeds on this particular piece, let’s take a quick look at the history of the Perrelet brand.

The Rotor Evolves



Perrelet’s roots date back to 1777, claiming a substantial bragging right that dates back to those early days: the invention of the automatic movement, which first saw integration into a pocketwatch. It wasn’t until 1995 that the brand executed the visibly spinning component concept with the debut of the Dipteros model, which used a double rotor to offer visual movement via the crystal, not the caseback. The feature required ambitious engineering, as the visible “front” rotor was linked to another rotor attached to the automatic movement side.

The so-called Turbine lineup was introduced in 2009, and operates differently than the double-rotor design. Rather than linking to a functioning part of the movement, the larger turbine is mounted to a ball bearing that can spin it in either direction, depending on wrist movements. The feature has become a calling card for the brand, which celebrated its success in 2019 by introducing a 10th anniversary Turbine EVO Collection powered by a new, COSC/Chronofiable Certified P-331-MH movement.

Modern Impressions



Perrelet’s latest Turbine Carbon
model which features the same P-331-MH movement, packing 28,800 beat per hour and 42 hours of reserve. The 10-atmosphere water resistance won’t see deep water dives any time soon, but its polycarbonate and carbon fiber case have a definitively purposeful feel, finished with a matte black PVD coating that lends it a feel that’s more technical than the jewelry-like finishes of the Dual Time Big Date. Though the carbon has a forged look, Perrelet revealed that forged carbon’s porosity lends it a tendency to break, which is why they went with polycarbonate carbon fiber, which is also found in aerospace applications. A sapphire crystal with double-anti reflective coating helps the intricacy of the spinning dial come through, and the Perrelet logo is pad printed onto the reverse of crystal, which lends it a floating feel.

There’s more than a hint of Hublot in the way the large 44mm case merges with the calf leather strap that features an alligator print—though the model’s $4,750 price point is anything but. Bold color combinations within the Turbine Carbon collection include Forest Green, Midnight Blue, Racing (with a red checkerboard pattern), and a somewhat somber Black Edition. I had the opportunity to experience both the Carbon Blue (A4065/2) and Carbon Green (A4065/4) versions, and tended to prefer the latter because green feels like a more organic colorway that works with more of my wardrobe. Your taste may vary.

On the Wrist: Moves Like Jagger



The Turbine Carbon wears big, due to its 44mm diameter as well its 13.82mm case height and relatively wide lug/strap width relationship. Beyond its obviously oversized personality, Perrelet’s turbine feature actually looks a tad less showy in person than it does in photos. In real life there’s less dimensionality to the texture of the dozen extensions that span the dial, lending them a look that’s busy, but not overwhelming.

And then there’s the movement, which creates an impression that’s harder to describe than you might think. Firstly, the spinning action of the turbines is unpredictable. Sometimes you’ll tilt your wrist quite a bit and they’ll remain static; others, you’ll make a slight move and the turbine suddenly accelerates. The movement has an almost eerie quality to it because the spin speed is fast enough to make the 12 turbines blur; one moment you’re looking at what appears to be a fixed design, the next it’s a kinetic sculpture.

There’s also a faint sound that comes with the movement, a whir that might be more noticeable to the wearer than those around him or her. While it’s not deafening, it’s certainly there, acting as a bit of an audible reinforcement of the turbine’s visual theme.

The Polarizing Choice is Yours



Much in the way the visually similar Hublot has a tendency to polarize watch aficionados, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon is not for everyone. Some will criticize the way it takes classical watchmaking principles and throws them out the window; others won’t like the fact that the spinning hardware serves an ornamental, not a functional purpose. And yet, a portion of the watch-loving population will likely be drawn to this novelty because it’s exactly that—an alternate take on timekeeping that presents a whimsical answer to a question no one asked.

Where you fall on that spectrum depends entirely on that intangible we call taste; where do you fall? Reply below with your thoughts.
 
Ask an enthusiast what excites them about timepieces, and they’re likely to wax poetic about the magic of tiny mechanical components which are nowhere to be found in solid state electronics like the Apple Watch. While those intricate inner workings are usually displayed through clear casebacks or small dial windows that display turning gears and whirring rotors, Perrelet’s Turbine Carbon delivers a different twist: a large, rotor-like element that spins behind the crystal.

If you caught my Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date review, you saw a Perrelet that takes a more subtle approach to the idea of moving parts on display, despite its rather complicated dial design. This time around, Perrelet’s formula leverages a more avant-garde design approach with an arguably higher concept execution. Like the Big Date, the Turbine Carbon uses the brand’s in-house SOPROD movement, which is assembled in Biel/Bienne Switzerland and is a part of the brand’s Spain-based Festina group. But before we get into the weeds on this particular piece, let’s take a quick look at the history of the Perrelet brand.

The Rotor Evolves

View attachment 17573691

Perrelet’s roots date back to 1777, claiming a substantial bragging right that dates back to those early days: the invention of the automatic movement, which first saw integration into a pocketwatch. It wasn’t until 1995 that the brand executed the visibly spinning component concept with the debut of the Dipteros model, which used a double rotor to offer visual movement via the crystal, not the caseback. The feature required ambitious engineering, as the visible “front” rotor was linked to another rotor attached to the automatic movement side.

The so-called Turbine lineup was introduced in 2009, and operates differently than the double-rotor design. Rather than linking to a functioning part of the movement, the larger turbine is mounted to a ball bearing that can spin it in either direction, depending on wrist movements. The feature has become a calling card for the brand, which celebrated its success in 2019 by introducing a 10th anniversary Turbine EVO Collection powered by a new, COSC/Chronofiable Certified P-331-MH movement.

Modern Impressions

View attachment 17573692
Perrelet’s latest Turbine Carbon model which features the same P-331-MH movement, packing 28,800 beat per hour and 42 hours of reserve. The 10-atmosphere water resistance won’t see deep water dives any time soon, but its polycarbonate and carbon fiber case have a definitively purposeful feel, finished with a matte black PVD coating that lends it a feel that’s more technical than the jewelry-like finishes of the Dual Time Big Date. Though the carbon has a forged look, Perrelet revealed that forged carbon’s porosity lends it a tendency to break, which is why they went with polycarbonate carbon fiber, which is also found in aerospace applications. A sapphire crystal with double-anti reflective coating helps the intricacy of the spinning dial come through, and the Perrelet logo is pad printed onto the reverse of crystal, which lends it a floating feel.

There’s more than a hint of Hublot in the way the large 44mm case merges with the calf leather strap that features an alligator print—though the model’s $4,750 price point is anything but. Bold color combinations within the Turbine Carbon collection include Forest Green, Midnight Blue, Racing (with a red checkerboard pattern), and a somewhat somber Black Edition. I had the opportunity to experience both the Carbon Blue (A4065/2) and Carbon Green (A4065/4) versions, and tended to prefer the latter because green feels like a more organic colorway that works with more of my wardrobe. Your taste may vary.

On the Wrist: Moves Like Jagger

View attachment 17573693

The Turbine Carbon wears big, due to its 44mm diameter as well its 13.82mm case height and relatively wide lug/strap width relationship. Beyond its obviously oversized personality, Perrelet’s turbine feature actually looks a tad less showy in person than it does in photos. In real life there’s less dimensionality to the texture of the dozen extensions that span the dial, lending them a look that’s busy, but not overwhelming.

And then there’s the movement, which creates an impression that’s harder to describe than you might think. Firstly, the spinning action of the turbines is unpredictable. Sometimes you’ll tilt your wrist quite a bit and they’ll remain static; others, you’ll make a slight move and the turbine suddenly accelerates. The movement has an almost eerie quality to it because the spin speed is fast enough to make the 12 turbines blur; one moment you’re looking at what appears to be a fixed design, the next it’s a kinetic sculpture.

There’s also a faint sound that comes with the movement, a whir that might be more noticeable to the wearer than those around him or her. While it’s not deafening, it’s certainly there, acting as a bit of an audible reinforcement of the turbine’s visual theme.

The Polarizing Choice is Yours

View attachment 17573694

Much in the way the visually similar Hublot has a tendency to polarize watch aficionados, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon is not for everyone. Some will criticize the way it takes classical watchmaking principles and throws them out the window; others won’t like the fact that the spinning hardware serves an ornamental, not a functional purpose. And yet, a portion of the watch-loving population will likely be drawn to this novelty because it’s exactly that—an alternate take on timekeeping that presents a whimsical answer to a question no one asked.

Where you fall on that spectrum depends entirely on that intangible we call taste; where do you fall? Reply below with your thoughts.
Enjoyed the read, thank you for taking the time to write and make these beautiful photos! I love the colour palette chosen and these cool hands 🍻 fun but practical piece 👌
 
Ask an enthusiast what excites them about timepieces, and they’re likely to wax poetic about the magic of tiny mechanical components which are nowhere to be found in solid state electronics like the Apple Watch. While those intricate inner workings are usually displayed through clear casebacks or small dial windows that display turning gears and whirring rotors, Perrelet’s Turbine Carbon delivers a different twist: a large, rotor-like element that spins behind the crystal.

If you caught my Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date review, you saw a Perrelet that takes a more subtle approach to the idea of moving parts on display, despite its rather complicated dial design. This time around, Perrelet’s formula leverages a more avant-garde design approach with an arguably higher concept execution. Like the Big Date, the Turbine Carbon uses the brand’s in-house SOPROD movement, which is assembled in Biel/Bienne Switzerland and is a part of the brand’s Spain-based Festina group. But before we get into the weeds on this particular piece, let’s take a quick look at the history of the Perrelet brand.

The Rotor Evolves

View attachment 17573691

Perrelet’s roots date back to 1777, claiming a substantial bragging right that dates back to those early days: the invention of the automatic movement, which first saw integration into a pocketwatch. It wasn’t until 1995 that the brand executed the visibly spinning component concept with the debut of the Dipteros model, which used a double rotor to offer visual movement via the crystal, not the caseback. The feature required ambitious engineering, as the visible “front” rotor was linked to another rotor attached to the automatic movement side.

The so-called Turbine lineup was introduced in 2009, and operates differently than the double-rotor design. Rather than linking to a functioning part of the movement, the larger turbine is mounted to a ball bearing that can spin it in either direction, depending on wrist movements. The feature has become a calling card for the brand, which celebrated its success in 2019 by introducing a 10th anniversary Turbine EVO Collection powered by a new, COSC/Chronofiable Certified P-331-MH movement.

Modern Impressions

View attachment 17573692
Perrelet’s latest Turbine Carbon model which features the same P-331-MH movement, packing 28,800 beat per hour and 42 hours of reserve. The 10-atmosphere water resistance won’t see deep water dives any time soon, but its polycarbonate and carbon fiber case have a definitively purposeful feel, finished with a matte black PVD coating that lends it a feel that’s more technical than the jewelry-like finishes of the Dual Time Big Date. Though the carbon has a forged look, Perrelet revealed that forged carbon’s porosity lends it a tendency to break, which is why they went with polycarbonate carbon fiber, which is also found in aerospace applications. A sapphire crystal with double-anti reflective coating helps the intricacy of the spinning dial come through, and the Perrelet logo is pad printed onto the reverse of crystal, which lends it a floating feel.

There’s more than a hint of Hublot in the way the large 44mm case merges with the calf leather strap that features an alligator print—though the model’s $4,750 price point is anything but. Bold color combinations within the Turbine Carbon collection include Forest Green, Midnight Blue, Racing (with a red checkerboard pattern), and a somewhat somber Black Edition. I had the opportunity to experience both the Carbon Blue (A4065/2) and Carbon Green (A4065/4) versions, and tended to prefer the latter because green feels like a more organic colorway that works with more of my wardrobe. Your taste may vary.

On the Wrist: Moves Like Jagger

View attachment 17573693

The Turbine Carbon wears big, due to its 44mm diameter as well its 13.82mm case height and relatively wide lug/strap width relationship. Beyond its obviously oversized personality, Perrelet’s turbine feature actually looks a tad less showy in person than it does in photos. In real life there’s less dimensionality to the texture of the dozen extensions that span the dial, lending them a look that’s busy, but not overwhelming.

And then there’s the movement, which creates an impression that’s harder to describe than you might think. Firstly, the spinning action of the turbines is unpredictable. Sometimes you’ll tilt your wrist quite a bit and they’ll remain static; others, you’ll make a slight move and the turbine suddenly accelerates. The movement has an almost eerie quality to it because the spin speed is fast enough to make the 12 turbines blur; one moment you’re looking at what appears to be a fixed design, the next it’s a kinetic sculpture.

There’s also a faint sound that comes with the movement, a whir that might be more noticeable to the wearer than those around him or her. While it’s not deafening, it’s certainly there, acting as a bit of an audible reinforcement of the turbine’s visual theme.

The Polarizing Choice is Yours

View attachment 17573694

Much in the way the visually similar Hublot has a tendency to polarize watch aficionados, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon is not for everyone. Some will criticize the way it takes classical watchmaking principles and throws them out the window; others won’t like the fact that the spinning hardware serves an ornamental, not a functional purpose. And yet, a portion of the watch-loving population will likely be drawn to this novelty because it’s exactly that—an alternate take on timekeeping that presents a whimsical answer to a question no one asked.

Where you fall on that spectrum depends entirely on that intangible we call taste; where do you fall? Reply below with your thoughts.
A Hard PAss ….
 
I find it worth it to give a reply on the Perrelet Turbine.
Due the article refresh my memory where Perrelet came from and who run it now.
Be for a while in the world of watches and walking around in the exclusive online world of the more expensive watches, i never had a conversation or others about Perrelet.
Not only Perrelet, some other watch brands seems not to be accepted by the people who are in that more exclusive world of expensive watches.
The crazy thing that i experienced is that some affordable watch brands have not a difficulty to be accepted by rich watch aficionados. Seiko for example looks to be liked by the whole watch community from poor to rich.
In my view to watches and what i wrote in this reply, i have no hard feelings to Perrelet.
Stronger said, i dislike Seiko and i am curious about Perrelet.
I owned a Seiko, and that was not a happy marriage. The downsides where a lot.
To sum it up would be dazzling the people here.
Lucky the Seiko i had was not expensive, so i did not lost much money on it.
But i do not want to write here a page full of Seiko downsides, because Perrelet do not deserve it to be waste with Seiko downsides.

Esthetics and technically the Perrelet Turbine is appealing. It is out of the box for sure, and the watch have not to be called in one breath with Hublot.
See this as positive. There are a lot of hard working people active to make a succes of Perrelet, and Perrelet must not get an image of a cheap Hublot.
The roots goes back to 1777, so no need to be seen as inferior.
To be honest, Festina is not that cool sounding as for example LVMH, but who cares if your Perrelet breath that 1777 vibe of ancient heritage with a twist of nowadays design.
 
Ask an enthusiast what excites them about timepieces, and they’re likely to wax poetic about the magic of tiny mechanical components which are nowhere to be found in solid state electronics like the Apple Watch. While those intricate inner workings are usually displayed through clear casebacks or small dial windows that display turning gears and whirring rotors, Perrelet’s Turbine Carbon delivers a different twist: a large, rotor-like element that spins behind the crystal.

If you caught my Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date review, you saw a Perrelet that takes a more subtle approach to the idea of moving parts on display, despite its rather complicated dial design. This time around, Perrelet’s formula leverages a more avant-garde design approach with an arguably higher concept execution. Like the Big Date, the Turbine Carbon uses the brand’s in-house SOPROD movement, which is assembled in Biel/Bienne Switzerland and is a part of the brand’s Spain-based Festina group. But before we get into the weeds on this particular piece, let’s take a quick look at the history of the Perrelet brand.

The Rotor Evolves

View attachment 17573691

Perrelet’s roots date back to 1777, claiming a substantial bragging right that dates back to those early days: the invention of the automatic movement, which first saw integration into a pocketwatch. It wasn’t until 1995 that the brand executed the visibly spinning component concept with the debut of the Dipteros model, which used a double rotor to offer visual movement via the crystal, not the caseback. The feature required ambitious engineering, as the visible “front” rotor was linked to another rotor attached to the automatic movement side.

The so-called Turbine lineup was introduced in 2009, and operates differently than the double-rotor design. Rather than linking to a functioning part of the movement, the larger turbine is mounted to a ball bearing that can spin it in either direction, depending on wrist movements. The feature has become a calling card for the brand, which celebrated its success in 2019 by introducing a 10th anniversary Turbine EVO Collection powered by a new, COSC/Chronofiable Certified P-331-MH movement.

Modern Impressions

View attachment 17573692
Perrelet’s latest Turbine Carbon model which features the same P-331-MH movement, packing 28,800 beat per hour and 42 hours of reserve. The 10-atmosphere water resistance won’t see deep water dives any time soon, but its polycarbonate and carbon fiber case have a definitively purposeful feel, finished with a matte black PVD coating that lends it a feel that’s more technical than the jewelry-like finishes of the Dual Time Big Date. Though the carbon has a forged look, Perrelet revealed that forged carbon’s porosity lends it a tendency to break, which is why they went with polycarbonate carbon fiber, which is also found in aerospace applications. A sapphire crystal with double-anti reflective coating helps the intricacy of the spinning dial come through, and the Perrelet logo is pad printed onto the reverse of crystal, which lends it a floating feel.

There’s more than a hint of Hublot in the way the large 44mm case merges with the calf leather strap that features an alligator print—though the model’s $4,750 price point is anything but. Bold color combinations within the Turbine Carbon collection include Forest Green, Midnight Blue, Racing (with a red checkerboard pattern), and a somewhat somber Black Edition. I had the opportunity to experience both the Carbon Blue (A4065/2) and Carbon Green (A4065/4) versions, and tended to prefer the latter because green feels like a more organic colorway that works with more of my wardrobe. Your taste may vary.

On the Wrist: Moves Like Jagger

View attachment 17573693

The Turbine Carbon wears big, due to its 44mm diameter as well its 13.82mm case height and relatively wide lug/strap width relationship. Beyond its obviously oversized personality, Perrelet’s turbine feature actually looks a tad less showy in person than it does in photos. In real life there’s less dimensionality to the texture of the dozen extensions that span the dial, lending them a look that’s busy, but not overwhelming.

And then there’s the movement, which creates an impression that’s harder to describe than you might think. Firstly, the spinning action of the turbines is unpredictable. Sometimes you’ll tilt your wrist quite a bit and they’ll remain static; others, you’ll make a slight move and the turbine suddenly accelerates. The movement has an almost eerie quality to it because the spin speed is fast enough to make the 12 turbines blur; one moment you’re looking at what appears to be a fixed design, the next it’s a kinetic sculpture.

There’s also a faint sound that comes with the movement, a whir that might be more noticeable to the wearer than those around him or her. While it’s not deafening, it’s certainly there, acting as a bit of an audible reinforcement of the turbine’s visual theme.

The Polarizing Choice is Yours

View attachment 17573694

Much in the way the visually similar Hublot has a tendency to polarize watch aficionados, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon is not for everyone. Some will criticize the way it takes classical watchmaking principles and throws them out the window; others won’t like the fact that the spinning hardware serves an ornamental, not a functional purpose. And yet, a portion of the watch-loving population will likely be drawn to this novelty because it’s exactly that—an alternate take on timekeeping that presents a whimsical answer to a question no one asked.

Where you fall on that spectrum depends entirely on that intangible we call taste; where do you fall? Reply below with your thoughts.
I agree that this does somewhat have some similarities with Hublot. Great read & a nice interesting piece!
 
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