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qianlong

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I would like to move up from my current daily watch. I’m not restricted to german watches but some of the more promising ones are German and this the reason for the post here. The main features of what I have I look for:
  • Black
  • at least 100 m of wr
  • small size, the current daily is 38mm and short lug to lug.
  • preferably thin
  • preferably with some scratch resistance
  • preferably 20mm lug width
  • I don’t like fauxtina.
and here is the problem I have only a 15.5 cm wrist (which should be 6.1 inches) and some of the watches may be to large but I could not find any retailer close by to try them on.

The ones I have in mind are the usual suspects, photos from the web.
sinn 556i
Image

A modern classic. Probably the most well rounded, could be used as a dress watch if needed, while being rugged enough for everyday use. The deep black dial looks the best in photos. Dial and lugs are a bit smaller than damasko but a bit thicker.

sinn 556a
Image

Also a classic. Less dressy, but with more character, both with white or red seconds hand are nice. I like the date positioning and the hour hand looks more proportionate than the I version.

damasko ds30 or dk.
Image

this is a bit larger but thinner and I read the lugs curve more. and it is much more scratch resistant, less stressful. I still like the dial but maybe a bit less so. On the other hand I like the case more. I also like the Ocean, but first I would like to get my black dial covered. The blue may be too much for everyday.

I like the Archimede klassik 200 but, I would be considering the white one. I also saw the recent Hanhart preventor hd12, and while I like it, it has a vintage vibe that does ton fit in my daily category, more of a next piece.

I know there are several threads about the models above but I could not find any with my wrist size. Are they too large? How do they wear? Am I missing any other model? in case smaller.
I‘m not restricted to German watches (considering also a sarx057) but they seem to be the ones offering the best price quality trade off in that range. I would probably buy second hand.

Thanks to anybody who can help.
 
Great list! When reading your list of requirements I immediately thought of the Archimede Klassik 200 and Hanhart Preventor HD12, but sounds like you’ve already taken those into account :).

The Mühle Glashütte black dial 37mm 29er might also be a great everyday watch.

Not sure if you would consider the 36/37mm fliegers from Laco/Stowa/Archimede as a daily wear either! There are modern versions (e.g. the Stowa Verus) that feel like an everyday watch.
 
Here's my go-to black dial: Damasko DA36 black. Hits most of your list except not thin (12mm) and not sure it would go with silver bracelet which appears to be your preference. But I love it.

Image
 
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Wanting 10 bar water resistance and ≤38mm will seriously restrict your options. I can't think of any that haven't already been mentioned, and the thread is only three posts long.

Listen, many people (including myself) swim for decades with 5 bar watches. Nobody really needs 10 bar unless they're genuinely diving, or if you want to keep your watch permanently in a fish tank. To be honest, a 5 bar watch could probably live there too.

The reason various brands claim you can only shower with 5 bar resistance is only to save them the inevitable hassle of idiots and lawsuits - there's always a rich entitled asshat who wants to push the boundaries, and they're just protecting themselves from that.
 

Attachments

This also comes in mind, even if it’s an homage not an original design it checks all your criterias:
Image

 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Great list! When reading your list of requirements I immediately thought of the Archimede Klassik 200 and Hanhart Preventor HD12, but sounds like you’ve already taken those into account :).

The Mühle Glashütte black dial 37mm 29er might also be a great everyday watch.

Not sure if you would consider the 36/37mm fliegers from Laco/Stowa/Archimede as a daily wear either! There are modern versions (e.g. the Stowa Verus) that feel like an everyday watch.
I saw the Muhle. It has 19 lug width but size would probably fit me much better. I like it but i like the other two better, if one of those would fit
Wanting 10 bar water resistance and ≤38mm will seriously restrict your options. I can't think of any that haven't already been mentioned, and the thread is only three posts long.

Listen, many people (including myself) swim for decades with 5 bar watches. Nobody really needs 10 bar unless they're genuinely diving, or if you want to keep your watch permanently in a fish tank. To be honest, a 5 bar watch could probably live there too.

The reason various brands claim you can only shower with 5 bar resistance is only to save them the inevitable hassle of idiots and lawsuits - there's always a rich entitled asshat who wants to push the boundaries, and they're just protecting themselves from that.
I know, and I’m not even one that keeps the watch when showering or that frequently swim but I prefer the peace of mind.

This also comes in mind, even if it’s an homage not an original design it checks all your criterias:
View attachment 18693243
This would be perfect on specs alone, but I feel it lacks that something.

@StufflerMike I found an old post of yours, where you mention that your wife with a less than 6’’ wrist could wear the Damasko. Was it true or it looked oversized? Do you have experience also with the sinn 556? Thanks in advance
 
….
@StufflerMike I found an old post of yours, where you mention that your wife with a less than 6’’ wrist could wear the Damasko. Was it true or it looked oversized? Do you have experience also with the sinn 556? Thanks in advance
Well, she‘s still wearing it, we changed dial from black to gray, changed the seconds hand and added the new Hirsch Lindsey Rosé to give it a more feminine touch.
Image
strap.
 
I am also literally in the exact same spot (although I have 6.75 wrists). Can't decide between a 556i or DS30. I've spent months on the fence between the two, also doesn't help I can only try on a Sinn up here in Canada. Anyway, there is definitely something about German watches that are just so damn appealing. From what I have read/watched (literally every single forum and video between these watches) Sinn will undoubtedly wear smaller due to dimensions except the 1mm height and the dial appears to be smaller on wrist. That's not to say DS30 wouldn't wear well for you, truly I am not sure. Sinn has more heritage/street cred and in my opinion a more beautiful dial in the ink black I model, but lacks 12 o'clock differentiation marker and is not as tough as the Damasko. Damasko also has the standard grade ETA I believe while Sinn has top grade Selitta (although, I have not seen a single Damasko not running near/at COSC standards). However, I think years from now Damasko might gain significant credibility in the industry as they have their own in house movement. Damakso will absolutely be more scratch resistant/tougher overall and has more utilitarian type look with the almost tank track looking bracelet which I find so damn sweet and also has more tech with crown lubrication/ ceramic ball bearings in the butterfly clasp etc. The DS30 on bracelet also has male end links, but from looks I do not think it's a big issue as they curve down. Some other options within this bracket might be Formex/Monta if you are into independents and Muhle. I know you mentioned about scratch resistance and Damasko is a no brainer in this department, but Sinn is brushed and I don't think scratches will look out of place on this watch. There is also a pretty big difference in tone between the 316l and submarine steel, Damasko more flat matte while Sinn almost a warm vibrant colour. I have only handled a 556A rs at a dealer and it was wrapped in plastic :( but it is a small watch which I find fantastic. I'll attach a photo to demonstrate on my 6 3/4 wrist, but I can guarantee it will wear just fine on your smaller wrist. It's a quite petite watch and not flashy but feels incredible.
 
I am also literally in the exact same spot (although I have 6.75 wrists). Can't decide between a 556i or DS30. I've spent months on the fence between the two, also doesn't help I can only try on a Sinn up here in Canada. Anyway, there is definitely something about German watches that are just so damn appealing. From what I have read/watched (literally every single forum and video between these watches) Sinn will undoubtedly wear smaller due to dimensions except the 1mm height and the dial appears to be smaller on wrist. That's not to say DS30 wouldn't wear well for you, truly I am not sure. Sinn has more heritage/street cred and in my opinion a more beautiful dial in the ink black I model, but lacks 12 o'clock differentiation marker and is not as tough as the Damasko. Damasko also has the standard grade ETA I believe while Sinn has top grade Selitta (although, I have not seen a single Damasko not running near/at COSC standards). However, I think years from now Damasko might gain significant credibility in the industry as they have their own in house movement. Damakso will absolutely be more scratch resistant/tougher overall and has more utilitarian type look with the almost tank track looking bracelet which I find so damn sweet and also has more tech with crown lubrication/ ceramic ball bearings in the butterfly clasp etc. The DS30 on bracelet also has male end links, but from looks I do not think it's a big issue as they curve down. Some other options within this bracket might be Formex/Monta if you are into independents and Muhle. I know you mentioned about scratch resistance and Damasko is a no brainer in this department, but Sinn is brushed and I don't think scratches will look out of place on this watch. There is also a pretty big difference in tone between the 316l and submarine steel, Damasko more flat matte while Sinn almost a warm vibrant colour. I have only handled a 556A rs at a dealer and it was wrapped in plastic :( but it is a small watch which I find fantastic. I'll attach a photo to demonstrate on my 6 3/4 wrist, but I can guarantee it will wear just fine on your smaller wrist. It's a quite petite watch and not flashy but feels incredible.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thank you very much for the photo. Indeed it is very nice. I’m quite confident that I would be happy with any of the two and missing something from the other. Sinn is probably more GADA, while the Damasko a bit more toolish. If i could i would buy them both, and maybe one day I will.
I know Monta and Formex, but only from the web. I prefer them with other dials though.
 
Thank you very much for the photo. Indeed it is very nice. I’m quite confident that I would be happy with any of the two and missing something from the other. Sinn is probably more GADA, while the Damasko a bit more toolish. If i could i would buy them both, and maybe one day I will.
I know Monta and Formex, but only from the web. I prefer them with other dials though.
Totally agree, if you think you’ll need a watch that you can dress up a bit more I’d go Sinn. Otherwise it’s really a tough call. I haven’t seen a Monta or Formex in the flesh but the essence is gorgeous although doesn’t have a screw down crown :/. Both I think look more dressy than Sinn/Damasko. I’d love to see a direct side by side of 556 and DS30 both on bracelets, I still cannot for the life of me find a picture or video!
 
With your wrist, if you want a German watch, I would look at Sinn 556, Hanhart Preventor HD12 or Laco Flieger Pro in 37mm (they are all dial). Damasko DS30/32 and DK30/32 wear larger than paper dimensions, DK36 wears smaller than the other two. Archimede Outdoor Protect 39 might be also an option. Or a Muhle Lunova Lady - with 35 mm it will fit your wrist (if you can get over the „lady” part in the name).
 
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