Martin Pauli on ‘handmade’ (Manu Propria – ‘with my own hand’)
“15 years ago, I founded Angular Momentum & Manu Propria with the vision to create and manufacture beautiful handmade timepieces, made under inclusion of old technologies and traditional craft with the premise that no single part is made by CNC machines, not depending to suppliers and all working steps from case making to the artwork done with my own hands (Manu Propria)“.
True luxury is about an understanding of craftsmanship, exclusivity and quality. These elements are key to my creations and each and every watch I make remains true to this ethos.
Such commitment has been a cornerstone of my philosophy since the foundation of Angular Momentum & Manu Propria in 1989, as a creator and manufacturer of bespoke and custom made timepieces for private collectors.Today my work is recognized for its exclusivity, its creativity and for its exceptional standards of artistry.
My work is unique by virtue of its approach from the very beginning. All my creations are one-of-a-king pieces. I devote myself to every single piece with passion and enthusiasm and it is a truly magical moment each time I see a completed dial, medallion and watch which is deeply satisfying. Indeed it is this dedication to hand craftsmanship and to individual design that ensures that every creation is truly unique. As a result each timepiece takes time to evolve, meaning production capacity is obviously limited.
On Verre Églomisé - Miniature Painting
What makes this particular technique so difficult is the sequence of paint application necessary to achieve it successfully.
The resulting painting is actually seen in reverse from the front, so the pigments must be applied opposite to the intended effect, requiring a great deal of imagination, patience, and skill most especially when the painting involves an entire palette of colors.
The technique of Verre Églomisé miniature painting on the reverse of sapphire watch crystals has been developed by Martin Pauli in 2004. The technique bases on Aqua Regia oil and pure colour pigments. The miniatures made by Martin Pauli are considered some of the finest available on the market today.
On Engraving, Repoussé, Uchi-Dashi
All metal works are executed in my ateliers. I use many different techniques such as classic Engraving, Repoussé, Chasing and Uchi-Dashi a distinctly Japanese process that blurs the distinctions between what is commonly known as Metal ‘sinking’ and metal ‘raising’.
On Shining Urushi Lacquer
The deep, shiny lustre of black or dark red lacquerware, often gorgeously decorated with gold and silver or inlaid with mother-of-pearl, is a Japanese handicraft form that has long fascinated the world. No other application style can match the deep hues and smoothness of Japanese lacquer (urushi in Japanese). Lacquerware stands as one of the most distinctive forms of Japanese beauty.
Martin Pauli is the only Swiss artisan applying this exceptional art and craft to watchmaking in his atelier in Switzerland.
Brilliance is an essential attribute of a beautiful diamond and has two components; brightness and contrast. Bright diamonds return lots of light from the surroundings. If light from above leaks out the back of a diamond, naturally it has less brightness. But light that enters and leaves in the face up direction is wasted because your head blocks the lights. Diamonds that are too deep or very shallow do this - they have areas that act like a mirror back to the viewer; they return less light and so they have less brightness. Taking this and other aspects into consideration Martin Pauli has developed a new technique of applying sparkling diamonds and diamond powder on the reverse of the watch sapphire crystal or watch dial.
On Watch cases
All watch parts, cases, crowns, hands, artworks are executed by myself in the atelier in Bern by hand and hand operated machines. A wide range of metals and alloys can be chosen and have been used for case making: All colours of Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver, Stainless Steel, Damascus Steel, Iron, Bronze, Brass, German Silver, Shibuichi, Shakudo and Zirconium metal.
All Angular Momentum & Manu Propria timepieces are fit with historical New-Old-Stock movements manufactured between1950 and 1975 in the „golden Era“ of watchmaking by companies like FHF (Fabrique d‘Horlogerie Fontainmelon) AS (Adolf Schild SA), Unitas SA which have been merged to the today‘s ETA SA in the 1980s during the so called „quartz crisis“.
The FHF and AS movements are - though 50 to 70 years old - of excellent quality.
Some say even better than today‘s mass produced movements. All movements have never been used before and are completely overworked, decorated and if necessary modified by myself in the atelier in Bern.
On a souscription
The main advantage of having a miniature painting on the reverse of the watch crystal with an aperture for digital time display is, that there are no watch hands disturbing the miniature picture. Verre Églomisé timepieces show the time digitally through an apperture, by an hour disk à „Souscription“ with hour, quarter hour and 5-minute indexes and optionally with a minute disk. This method is an alternative time reading system without hour and minute hand.
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