WatchUSeek Watch Forums banner
1 - 3 of 280 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
5,395 Posts
JohnF said:
..... The dial will make or break the watch .... the original KM dials were porcelain, which is simply not doable anymore (too fragile, generally speaking, and unrepairable). However, I think you can get some of the depth that the porcelain dials were famous for (depth in the sense that there was a 3-D effect to the dial) by specifying the following: standard brass dial with date at 6, silver plating, no base coat, then 3 layers of flat white paint, but NOT with a white pigment (this would absorb too much light), then a layer of white paint mixed with a small amount of mother-of-pearl, than a finishing coat. The dial numbers and the railroad-track chapter markings should be printed using some sort of rubber compound to hold the shape during the painting process and then removed to leave sharply defined indents, which would then be filled with black pigment before the final fishing coat. This could re-create the visual effect and feel of porcelain, but without the ensuing costs. Creating an etched-like effect for the numbers and railroad track would allow you to have a very flat dial, but with a 3-D effect ..... Alternatively, if this is too difficult to do (and it is!), then a solid silver dial, date at 6, with a white non-pigment layer, print the 1-12 and railroad tracks in flat black, then put a gloss finish coat on that. The non-covering white would allow light to penetrate down to and then reflect off the silver.

Hands: blued steel, but with a different design than the Laco KM hands. Black lume (i.e. lume that looks black in the daylight, but shows a moderately subdued lume at night.

..... the ultimate quality of a watch IS determined by the movement - and think of what can be done with that movement ..... First of all, we have a classic amongst the mass of the post-war ebauché movements: a Durowe ...... Let's consider this: having the screws and some additional parts black-polished and then thermic-blued (the only real bluing a watchmaker wants to see, none of that chemical bluing!). The flat planes of the movement bridges do not. unfortunately, lend themselves to geneva striping, but I think that they could be beautifully frosted and red-gold plated; perlage then on the base plate. Think frosted red-gold and blued screws, in combination with a modest case size, but one that provides water resistance to 100m ......
John, thank you for a few very constructive posts and ideas.
I lack the technical knowledge that you seem to have, but I am thinking along similar lines. My idea for the dial would be a white-gilt dial. I understand that these are hard to produce, maybe too difficult, but would be really unique in today's offerings and offer the great depth you mentioned. Cheaper and easier alternatives could be an enamel dial or powder-coating.

Blue hands on an off-white dial generally is hard to beat. And having the color blue returning on the back-side (screws) ...... |>
Maybe we can combine all of this with the below dial-design:

Janne said:
The modern iteration of this dial does indeed look empty - maybe because it is housed in too large a case?

Apologies for not bringing something new to the table; just compiling & combining a few ideas.

RonB
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,395 Posts


Thanks for your effort, Manera, that's a good start and very constructive contribution to the discussion |> One thing: the sub-dial will not work with this movement, which can only support a central second hand.

RonB
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,395 Posts
Re: Torpedo Theme

Manera said:
Chapeau, Manera, very well done |> As you said, quite a few nuances that can be changed, but the general idea and layout is just great.

One suggestion: print the second set of numbers 10 ... 15 ... 20 ... ... 55 ... 60 in mirror-script similar to the W-SS watch.

RonB
 
1 - 3 of 280 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top