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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Firstly, apologies if this is in the wrong forum. Took a look across the various subforums and thought this was the best place to post given what I am looking at - mods, please kindly move if I got it wrong!
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I am looking for a <=40mm dress or dressy watch (but nothing smaller than 36-37mm please), on leather strap, that can track two timezones. It must also have a date. I am ambivalent towards whether it is a GMT, Dual Time, Home Time, Travel Time, etc. etc. - as long as it can track two timezones.

I currently have a 116710 GMT, but it's a bit sporty sometimes when I am in a more formal suit and tie, particularly if I am having meetings with a more traditional crowd. Further, I am occasionally in black tie, and although I can simply take my wristwatch off and carry a pocketwatch, I would like a watch that can semi-acceptably slip under the radar most times even in black tie - i.e. not too, too much busier than a traditional three hander AND slim enough to fit under french cuffs (I am aware that the vast majority of practical modern society find it acceptable to wear a sub / LN in a suit, or even black tie, but please humor me for now).

Here are some options I am exploring, and I was hoping the excellent WUS community could suggest any that I am missing. Again, must track two timezones, have a date, and come on a strap (no bracelets please).

- Patek 5134 (edit: nvm forgot that this doesn't have a date)

- Chopard L.U.C. Classic GMT 16/1867 or 161867 (unsure of the exact serial semantics) - does anyone have more info about this watch by the way? I googled a bunch and it is hard to find info on this...I love this Chopard since it looks very much like a JLC MUT Moon 39 (and I love that JLC design, but too bad it's not a GMT)

- GP 1966 dual time

- JLC Master Geographic Q1428421

- JLC Master Hometime (both historical and modern iterations)

I am aware of but have eliminated the following: AP Jules Audemars Dual Time (36mm too small, modern iterations' dials too busy), Lange Timezone 1 (brilliant watch but dial also draws significant attention), Montblanc GMTs (not a fan of the dials), Omega Worldtimer (too big), VC / Patek Worldtimers (dial draws too much attention), GS GMTs - both spring drive and high beat iterations (their 40mm and ~14mm thickness makes these just a tad too large for my tastes).

Any additional information you have on these potential candidates, especially regarding the Chopard, and any other suggestions you might have are welcome. I would like something at least at or above the Omega Aqua Terra GMT levels of horology / price (honestly I love the AT, but the AT GMTs are too large and are sporty even on a strap, so those are out as well). Thank you for reading!
 

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Hi mate,

May I suggest a few options that I think are a level above the GP and the JLC in terms of finishing and horological qualities?
For a dual time/gmt classy timepiece, you should look at Breguet and Blancpain's offerings.

Namely, the Blancpain Villeret collection, they have a GMT, a half timezone (useful if you travel to India for example), a gmt/alarm combination, and multiple dial options. Most of the references are available in White Gold or Rose gold, and some in Yellow gold too.
blancpain_villeret_half_time_zone.jpg
Blancpain-Villeret-GMT-Date-004.jpg


Breguet has a "Réveil du Tsar" (GMT + Alarm, same base movement as the BP), available in a guilloché dial or a white enamel dial, that is absolutely stunning in the metal.

buy-now-breguet-boutique-exclusive-classique-le-rveil-du-tsar_1.jpg


I think those options are above the JLC in terms of finishing, and above the GP on all accounts.
As for the Chopard, I don't know which reference you are mentioning, now the ref I know is the 16/1867, which is a fine watch with an amazing movement, but the look is not exactly modern. I think it didn't age very well. Just my opinion though.

Let me know if you find those suggestions useful and we can maybe add a few more similar or different references depending on what you like.

All the best,
A.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi mate,

May I suggest a few options that I think are a level above the GP and the JLC in terms of finishing and horological qualities?
For a dual time/gmt classy timepiece, you should look at Breguet and Blancpain's offerings.

Namely, the Blancpain Villeret collection, they have a GMT, a half timezone (useful if you travel to India for example), a gmt/alarm combination, and multiple dial options. Most of the references are available in White Gold or Rose gold, and some in Yellow gold too.
View attachment 15056325
View attachment 15056331


Breguet has a "Réveil du Tsar" (GMT + Alarm, same base movement as the BP), available in a guilloché dial or a white enamel dial, that is absolutely stunning in the metal.

View attachment 15056345


I think those options are above the JLC in terms of finishing, and above the GP on all accounts.
As for the Chopard, I don't know which reference you are mentioning, now the ref I know is the 16/1867, which is a fine watch with an amazing movement, but the look is not exactly modern. I think it didn't age very well. Just my opinion though.

Let me know if you find those suggestions useful and we can maybe add a few more similar or different references depending on what you like.

All the best,
A.
Hi - thanks so much for the suggestions. That Breguet is amazing and I will look into it, albeit more as a competitor to my next "complication" watch acquirement. Somehow the JLC Master Geographic manages to look "simpler" despite its complications being comparable in function with some ALS/Breguets - I think it's because of the JLC's white dial and relatively simple markers, as well as its small / slim case (39mm x 12mm thickness).

As for the BP - it's funny because somebody on CWC (Canadian forums) suggested earlier in the day the exact watch - the Villeret GMT. This was a watch that I was completely ignorant about - and it is rapidly approaching the top of my list now. I will say that, functionally, it is similar to the GP 1966 Dual Time, but imo (and I fully agree with you), the BP is clearly a tier above (also it doesn't need a corrector tool to quickset the date, unlike the JLC and the GP - although on the JLC this is far more understandable due to the worldtimer function). I am also glad that I love the BP design and finishing far more than the GP, so we can cross off the GP.

Regarding the Chopard - yes 16/1867 is the right watch. And it is indeed a bit aged (~2000s?). The movement is also more annoying than the BP in the sense that it requires a corrector as well. I love the look, but I also love the BP, so I think we can cross off the Chopard for now.

Therefore, we're left with the JLC Geographic versus the BP Villeret GMT...with the price points being rather similar, I guess it comes down to the horology, functionality, and looks, which is a decision I will make to make. I am leaning BP for now and it is in the top spot, so if you have any similar suggestions to the BP Villeret GMT, I'm all ears! Also, if there exists a watch similar to the ALS Saxonia Dual Time, but with a date, I am also all ears within the price ranges we are discussing (anything from JLC to Breguet / ALS level).

Thanks so much for your reply!
 

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Hi - thanks so much for the suggestions. That Breguet is amazing and I will look into it, albeit more as a competitor to my next "complication" watch acquirement. Somehow the JLC Master Geographic manages to look "simpler" despite its complications being comparable in function with some ALS/Breguets - I think it's because of the JLC's white dial and relatively simple markers, as well as its small / slim case (39mm x 12mm thickness).

As for the BP - it's funny because somebody on CWC (Canadian forums) suggested earlier in the day the exact watch - the Villeret GMT. This was a watch that I was completely ignorant about - and it is rapidly approaching the top of my list now. I will say that, functionally, it is similar to the GP 1966 Dual Time, but imo (and I fully agree with you), the BP is clearly a tier above (also it doesn't need a corrector tool to quickset the date, unlike the JLC and the GP - although on the JLC this is far more understandable due to the worldtimer function). I am also glad that I love the BP design and finishing far more than the GP, so we can cross off the GP.

Regarding the Chopard - yes 16/1867 is the right watch. And it is indeed a bit aged (~2000s?). The movement is also more annoying than the BP in the sense that it requires a corrector as well. I love the look, but I also love the BP, so I think we can cross off the Chopard for now.

Therefore, we're left with the JLC Geographic versus the BP Villeret GMT...with the price points being rather similar, I guess it comes down to the horology, functionality, and looks, which is a decision I will make to make. I am leaning BP for now and it is in the top spot, so if you have any similar suggestions to the BP Villeret GMT, I'm all ears! Also, if there exists a watch similar to the ALS Saxonia Dual Time, but with a date, I am also all ears within the price ranges we are discussing (anything from JLC to Breguet / ALS level).

Thanks so much for your reply!
The BP is great and a step above the master geographic.

I know a bit bigger but the VC overseas DT to me goes from sporty to simply elegant on the quick switch leather strap. It’s the easiest and most readable GMT I have.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The BP is great and a step above the master geographic.

I know a bit bigger but the VC overseas DT to me goes from sporty to simply elegant on the quick switch leather strap. It’s the easiest and most readable GMT I have.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm glad the BP is getting support as I am very much liking it more and more...

Great suggestion on the 7900V, but I am almost certainly getting an Overseas Chrono (it sings to me more than the equivalent RO), so I can't really justify having two Overseas in the collection, haha.
 

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Blancpain has multiple models and references, and can be had with a significant discount grey market.
Another watch worth mentioning if you want to avoid a corrector is the ALS Saxonia dual time, with pushers instead. Very classy watch, although if I was buying an ALS that probably wouldn't be my first choice.

But it is a stunner, and having tried it in the flesh, it was phenomenal.

csm_ALS-Saxonia-Double-Fuseau-Horaire-2015-386.032-2_4a22eca1b0.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Blancpain has multiple models and references, and can be had with a significant discount grey market.
Another watch worth mentioning if you want to avoid a corrector is the ALS Saxonia dual time, with pushers instead. Very classy watch, although if I was buying an ALS that probably wouldn't be my first choice.

But it is a stunner, and having tried it in the flesh, it was phenomenal.

View attachment 15056533
Yup, if it wasn't for my addiction to having a date, that ALS would be great! That is the single watch that has me closest to giving up a date, however. Haha
 

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Yup, if it wasn't for my addiction to having a date, that ALS would be great! That is the single watch that has me closest to giving up a date, however. Haha
Haha and here I am trying to remove from my potential buy list all the watches with date windows since I hate them. I guess it's really a personal preference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha and here I am trying to remove from my potential buy list all the watches with date windows since I hate them. I guess it's really a personal preference.
Haha yes, the hobby is really quite something!
 

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I personally love the JLC Master Hometime. The way the home time hand is hidden when not in use makes it my favorite style of dual time watches. I have the Squadra hometime but I prefer bigger watches. Have you considered the myriad reverso options? I love the the Reverso Grande GMT 240.8.18:

Reverso Grande GMT.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
When COVID is under control, I will have to see for myself in person re: the reverso!
 

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Those two Villerets and the ALS are really beautiful. I agree with the date window comment though, I can't do without it either. And I use it pretty often too, when signing things etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Those two Villerets and the ALS are really beautiful. I agree with the date window comment though, I can't do without it either. And I use it pretty often too, when signing things etc.
Since that ALS effectively only has the upper dial as an am/pm indicator (it always shows the same time as the blue hand), I'd love it if they could somehow come up with a lowkey AM/PM indicator elsewhere and replace the upper dial with a circular date disk like the ones on the Rolex Cellinis (as long as it did not come across as crammed) - then again, they are real experts at Lange and I obviously know very little, so I'm sure they have good reason with their designs (and it's a gorgeous piece indeed)

Regarding the necessity for a date: Yes - I absolutely need it. With long hours of work and consistently having to deal with every date being important, having that quick glance at my watch when dating and/or signing something is really great for my piece of mind (sometimes I'll literally look at my laptop, my phone, and my watch just to tell myself the date is correct - paranoid I know, but somehow I keep doing it).
 

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I own the Lange Dual Time in white gold — but the older version, which is larger (40mm). It’s a great watch. And in white gold it’s a bit less flashy, which sometimes is what you want depending on where you’re traveling.

No date though. Sorry. Can’t say I’d want to mar the watch with one, though. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I own the Lange Dual Time in white gold — but the older version, which is larger (40mm). It’s a great watch. And in white gold it’s a bit less flashy, which sometimes is what you want depending on where you’re traveling.

No date though. Sorry. Can’t say I’d want to mar the watch with one, though. &#55357;&#56898;
Yup, the 385.026 is a beauty :)
 
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