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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

Just dowload an app and started to track it's looking like around 14 s/d.
Anyone have some long term actual data.
Does that fall in the average range or better than average.
I was hoping for better but considering the spec is 60s i guess I am 45 seconds beter than worst case.

Thanks
Nitro
 

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Hello

Just dowload an app and started to track it's looking like around 14 s/d.
Anyone have some long term actual data.
Does that fall in the average range or better than average.
I was hoping for better but considering the spec is 60s i guess I am 45 seconds beter than worst case.

Thanks
Nitro
The accuracy range is -25 to +35 I think. I really don't think you'd be able to find an average for the movement without thousands of people posting their average daily loss/gain. 14 s/d (+?) as you say could be much worse but you can get very lucky with them too and get one where you only lose or gain even just a few seconds a day and they run within a range the same as COSC certified movements do, even in all positions; this won't be happening for the majority though. By the way, from my own experience I believe the "break-in" thing to be a myth (where people expect their very fast/slow running watches to improve after a couple of weeks). Mine is running exactly the same as it was a month ago when I bought it and it's been running all day every day.
 

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I would be happy with what you are getting but you could improve it yourself if you wish.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I heard that the adjustment is super sensitive.
I am handy but not ready to commit to opening my new watch just yet.

Nitro
 
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It is, but i a managed it on my first mechanical a seiko 5 7s26c.
Got it down to around +6secs a day form twenty odd so you are not far off that and maybe should leave it.
 

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My Samurai blue lagoon when first received is about +20s/day. Unhappy with the results sent in for adjustment now -7s/day. Happy with it and decide not to send in again.
 

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Had a 4R35 that was +10 left face up,around +15 on the wrist.I think the accuracy you are getting is good enough but YMMV.

I'm not a stickler for super accuracy it should be said.
 

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If you are that far within spec, you probably ought to be happy with it because, if you open it up and try to make it better, you will likely make it worse and have a very difficult time getting it back to 14s/d! You'll be aggravated at a minimum and really ticked off and not want to wear the watch at all at worst. I know I would be if I made it worse and couldn't get back to what it was.

And you'd be hard pressed to get a real world average simply by polling Watchuseek users because the sample size is too small compared to the number of watches that are out there. The TRUE measure of what the average actually is can be found in the owner's manual which has the official average as determined by Seiko already. That's what that figure means - this is the average you can expect from this particular movement. They've already done the work for you.

The manual says +45/-35 so you're well within that. And, you didn't say whether you were measuring face, up, down, sideways, worn, etc. Position will change that significantly so whatever you are doing to get it to be 14 needs to be done regularly to maintain that and there's no guarantee that will happen.

Congrats on getting one that's so accurate as compared to its spec. That's really goo.
 

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Hello

Just dowload an app and started to track it's looking like around 14 s/d.
Anyone have some long term actual data.
Does that fall in the average range or better than average.
I was hoping for better but considering the spec is 60s i guess I am 45 seconds beter than worst case.

Thanks
Nitro
You didn't say if it is fast or slow.. if it is fast, you might try keeping it face down when you are sleeping - that improved my SNK807 from around +15 to around +8 seconds a day
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Worn during day on side at night.
Will be face down at night from now on
Nitro
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Worn during day on side at night.
Will be face down at night from now on
Minus
Nitro
 

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They're fine movements for the money, but they're not particularly precise. I've tested a half dozen 7S/4R/6R movements, and the positional variation on them ranges from 4 to 7 seconds. Not "bad" scores per se (again, these are workhorse movements), it just means that "accuracy" is something of a crap-shoot. I wouldn't attempt to regulate without slapping it on a timegrapher and seeing what your fastest/slowest positions are--most of mine run slower pendant right (12-up) than dial down, for instance.

If you're lucky, you'll find that your watch loses time in one or more positions, in which case a little strategic "nightstand regulation" is all you'll need to keep it close to your reference clock. Remember, even a junk movement can net "perfect" time if you balance the slow/fast positions correctly, and the 7S/4R is actually quite decent. The only wrinkle is that they, like most unadjusted, single barrel movements, tend to speed up as the mainspring unwinds, which can make it all but impossible to find the "winning combo" of worn/resting positions.
 

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Mine is +2 seconds a day, (the average was +1,6s a day in 3 weeks of 24/7 wear. I set the date yesterday morning and it doesn't seem to have gained anything in the last 24 hours.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well after face down for first night it looks like I picked up 2s.
Now s/d is 10 - 12 sec.
Not so bad i guess.
this is ony 3 days of measurements.

let's see long term.

Nitro
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Report:

After 6 days, -50.2 seconds.
biggest loss in a day -12.8
smallest loss in a day -6.9

Ave s/d -9.8
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is this typical ?

The accuracy seems to be getting better.

Ave s/d -7.1

Max s/d -12.8
Least s/d - 1.5

Total loss since Sep 30 -64.6 sec.

Nitro
 

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Is this typical ?

The accuracy seems to be getting better.

Ave s/d -7.1

Max s/d -12.8
Least s/d - 1.5

Total loss since Sep 30 -64.6 sec.

Nitro
I would say that's very good. As suggested to you by others, you can sometimes find a position to rest it at night that can off-set how it runs on the wrist. I have had a few dozen of 2824's, of which a few I have been able to keep fairly consistent over long periods of time knowing the the best resting position.

Apart from a few defective watches I can recall, most tend to run around the mid-point of the movement's range defined by the mfg.

You know about fish stories? I recall the opening monolog to Garrison Keillor's radio show about a town called Lake Wobegon, "... where all the children are above average...".

It seems to me, that in the vast majority of posts by watch enthusiasts about their watch's accuracy, just about all watches mentioned are "above average". Only the newbies seem to get the watches from the other end of the barrel.

I've had dozens of Seiko's, 4, 6, 7 series ... up to a MM300. Just about all of my Seiko's run around at, or higher (worse), to the mid point of the Seiko's specs for the movement... but all within specs. My 2824's tend run better, at or below (better) than the mid point. Some remarkably in low single digits. However, most of my 2824's seem to "break in" (which is a highly debatable topic in itself), with accuracy deteriorating to the mid point or slightly higher over time. My Seiko experience has been no noticeable breaking in: they are what they are our oil the box.

IMHO, the biggest thing that effects most performance related issues on mechanical watches is the battery. The battery is what charges up the main spring. If the main spring has wound down to the low end of it's power reserve, most of these movements we are discussing will run a little slower n their final few hours; if charged up near full, that may run slightly faster for a few hours.

We are of course the battery.

Most of is are unreliable batteries. Somedays we are very active, and our movement winds up the main spring to near capacity. Other days we sit at a desk, and our movement leaves the mainspring less charged. A few days of that, when we put the watch down at night, the main spring may be down near the end of its reserve. Since we are all different, our definition of active varies greatly. In reality, it takes more activity to maintain a fully wound mainspring than most if us realize.

My watches all run better over time if fully charged. When I travel, and spend days in planes, sitting in meetings and dinners, the watch I am wearing will run slower. I have a Damasko DA46 that I can keep running at around +2 SPD for a week or more, IF I can maintain a fully wound mainspring each day (2 - 4 miles per day walks), and rested crown up. That same watch, after a week of traveling as described above, will be -9 to -10 SPD.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
nepatroit

How many turns of the crown to fully wind the main spring ?

Thanks
Nitro
 
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