Those seem like pretty solid specs for that movement as you see it now.

However, having owned various models with this movement in my experience they are hit or miss when it comes to consistent accuracy.

I have found that some get better or remain stable the more you wear them. One of them runs very close to COSC if I keep it on the wrist for the week

But a few of mine can be all over the place and outside of even the stated specs from Seiko, especially if only worn briefly, so even though I have collected watches for almost 30 years this movement still remains a mystery to me……..

I love it and hate it both at the same time……..

Sorry that was probably of little to no help to you, but I am sure others will far more knowledge will chime in and help you make the correct decision.

Good luck.

 

You can do the 4 position test: dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down. Conducted over 4 days; fully wind and change position each day. For each day/position, record the gain/loss each day, then calculate the average.

 

not sure the shop owner will allow that on his display - I would if i could

 

Mine (SPB143) is running about like that and is occasionally -10 to +5. It averages about -3.

 

The problem with the 6R movements are their high positional variance and poor isochronism. Generally, they perform best if kept at close to full wind with very regular wear. If you don't have a Timegrapher, you should try testing the watch accuracy resting it in different positions overnight.

 

I only have one watch with this movement and if I were one to think the sky were falling when I lost five seconds I might be more concerned.
Still, the other evening I gave the watch a full wind and left it resting dial up. The next morning it was -10. I’ve given it a full wind and it’s been -5 one day and for a few days it was consistently +5/day. I’m not going to be upset over a watch that’s +-5/day but it makes very little sense. I‘ve read that many Seiko movements are poorly lubed with too much or too little in critical spots. I love the watch and expect a full service will help. A 4R36 is consistently closer to +-0.

 

They do have positional variance, but I was able to regulate my Willard to be quite accurate over the course of a week based on the net time lost on wrist and gained back at night. Pretty easy to do. Immensely satisfying too.

A cheap timegrapher helps, but all you really need is a simple app to help you manually log the time deviation in the morning and evening for a few days. Then make and adjustment and see what results it yields over the same time period. I've used watchtracker for iOS a bunch for this

 

Given how much Seiko is asking for these, I wouldn't buy, barring a very significant discount, and even then, I probably still wouldn't spend any money on a 6R35 movement.

I was enamored with those reissues too when they were first released, but decided I'd get more joy out of an 8L35 spec'd version. Tracking one of the few remaining new ones down a couple of years ago was fun too. I do wish mine had the same width as the smaller 6R35 versions, but the SLA033 would look right at home on your (much) larger wrist.

 

Given how much Seiko is asking for these, I wouldn't buy, barring a very significant discount, and even then, I probably still wouldn't spend any money on a 6R35 movement.

I was enamored with those reissues too when they were first released, but decided I'd get more joy out of an 8L35 spec'd version. Tracking one of the few remaining new ones down a couple of years ago was fun too. I do wish mine had the same width as the smaller 6R35 versions, but the SLA033 would look right at home on your (much) larger wrist.

View attachment 17780949

thanks - I love the SLA033 and regret not bagging one when I was able to afford - they are scarce now and I know of only 1 for sale with a dealer who wont budge more than a stingy 5%. I see on Chrono24 a few for sale but prices high, nr retail and added 30% import tax/duty/PP will take it over retail. fab watch though - along with 025 my fave reissue

 

My 6R35 had been running pretty consistently -14 spd. Did that for several months. I got a new watch that kicked it off my wrist for a while. Next time I wore it it was running at +1.5 spd. Parked it again for a week and wearing it again now. It’s running about +5 spd. So, all over the place for me.

 

Over the years and a dozen 6R watches, I have learned that I’d rather spend the money for watches with the 8L calibres. It so happens that everything else about them is also next level. 10 years ago, before starting my own company, I wouldn’t have been in the position to spend more money and would have been satisfied (tolerant?) with 6R watches.






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Ticking away the moments that make up a dull day.

 

Over the years and a dozen 6R watches, I have learned that I’d rather spend the money for watches with the 8L calibres. It so happens that everything else about them is also next level. 10 years ago, before starting my own company, I wouldn’t have been in the position to spend more money and would have been satisfied (tolerant?) with 6R watches.

Not to mention 10 years ago, the 6Rs were in watches like the $250 SARB035, which made it much easier to tolerate their accuracy quirks.

 

I have no idea how "accurate" they are, they are close enough for my purposes. If they seem off, then I pull the stem and reset. Wacky stuff, I know. If I want to geek out on accuracy I wear a solar atomic G-Shock.

 

I own 2 watches with 6r35 movements. Its all over the place but I still love them. LOL

 

My Willard runs at +6.5s....currently.
My MM300 with the supposedly amazing 8L35 runs at +11s.

 

I have had a handful of watches with the 8L calibre, all of which ran within +3 seconds except for the SLA021, which ran +9 seconds… but it ran a consistent 9-seconds pace. My past watches with the 6R, however, could be +3 seconds one day, and +19 seconds the next, and then -11 seconds on the third, with no rhyme or reason.

Having made the contrast, I will admit to this: watches are more than their movements, and their overall aesthetics and features have to be factored into the ownership joy. Andy Warhol didn’t even wind his Cartier Tank… the watch could’ve housed a wooden tooth, for all he cared.

I love the 6R-based Willard, and if I find a preowned one for a good enough price, I wouldn’t mind owning it, even if I have to adjust the time every 3 or 4 days.






——————
Ticking away the moments that make up a dull day.

 

The movement is just what it is. I have had and currently have watches with SW200 and ETA movements which are all a bit more accurate than the 6R but it’s accurate enough and I think The overall design of the watch is significantly better then the others currently in my collection. We can complain about this or that, but other than some micro brands, watches that are +-5 cost significantly more.

 

Seiko, love or hate their movements, they always offer some "excitement"......

 

Well. I really hate all of the 6R movements so I am biased here. From my experience, if you want a Seiko, you want to get one that has fast and slow positions so you can rest it and average out the error.

Dial up is usually on of the faster ones, so if it's still losing 2 seconds per day, then if you wear it, it's going to run slow. I would not get this.

In my experience, dial up and down is usually fast. Crown up or down is usually the slowest. 12 up and 6 up can vary.

 

My first SRPD bought off the grey market is on it's way. Trying out a bunch of styles (dive, sports, dress) before moving to nicer designs that get the 6r movement.

Have been reading about the 6R movement, so kinda cool that there's a thread about this watch here right now.

I love it and hate it both at the same time……..

This is how I feel when reading about the 6R movements, having not bought one yet. I want to love it, but I think there will be moments where I'll hate them.

Then I check out other watch brands in the price range of the Seikos that have the 6R movement. Aftewards, I ask myself... why am I planning the next price tier up for Seikos, knowing that I'll be playing the Seiko lottery and running the risk getting the lower end of the accuracy specs?

10 years ago, the 6Rs were in watches like the $250 SARB035, which made it much easier to tolerate their accuracy quirks.

10 years ago, were the 6Rs in higher priced Seikos as well as they are today? Or did they use their next tier of movement in them?

 

My first SRPD bought off the grey market is on it's way. Trying out a bunch of styles (dive, sports, dress) before moving to nicer designs that get the 6r movement.

Have been reading about the 6R movement, so kinda cool that there's a thread about this watch here right now.


This is how I feel when reading about the 6R movements, having not bought one yet. I want to love it, but I think there will be moments where I'll hate them.

Then I check out other watch brands in the price range of the Seikos that have the 6R movement. Aftewards, I ask myself... why am I planning the next price tier up for Seikos, knowing that I'll be playing the Seiko lottery and running the risk getting the lower end of the accuracy specs?


10 years ago, were the 6Rs in higher priced Seikos as well as they are today? Or did they use their next tier of movement in them?

10 yrs ago the next tier mvmnt (then 8L35) was only available in Marinemaster and Seiko Tunas
So quite a price hike before you got one
The 8L is found in the SLA051 - these models are not JDM like the SLA033 and have the newer pinched case style
but priced below the 033 but still pricey . Over the Willard reissue seems you are paying $1500 dollars extra and the only difference is you get the 8L - that seems like a rip off

 

I have never owned a 6R35 movement watch. However, I have read plenty of discussions regarding the movement accuracy and it seems that there has always been variation reported and that Seiko's claim of -15 to +25 could be what to expect. I do own a Seiko watch with a 6L35 movement which I believe is similar in label to the 6R35 , but not in construction, and that watch runs well inside the COSC specs.

 

My SPB149 consistently runs -2.57. It has since I bought it.

 

Si, you’ve got a few Seikos and you’re prepared for the 6R not to be exactly METAS standard so given that you are prepared for any potential shortcomings in that area I’d jump in.

 

^^^^^^^ IMHO best assessment and a reflection of my experience.

I’ve owned a couple of Seiko’s with 6R36 movements, and I should’ve learned after the first one not to buy the second one. My take on the situation is one is better off spending the additional money and buying a Seiko with an 8L35B movement. To my way of thinking the only interesting watches are accurate watches. Accuracy is an art form too!

8L35s aren't regulated either. My MM300 is +11s.
Also if you like a particular Seiko design, buying a completely different watch just because it has an 8L35 diesn't scratch that itch.

 

I concur that 8L35’s aren’t regulated either although from my limited experience they’re unregulated a helluva lot better than 6R36’s I’ve also owned. However I do get your point that just because a specific watch might have an 8L35 doesn’t mean necessarily that it will scratch that itch.

Thus far I’ve owned four watches with 8L35’s - SLA021, SLA033, SLA043 & SLA049. All ran between +2 and +6 seconds per day with minimal positional variance. Two of the watches I bought new from a local AD and was able to have run on a timegrapher before buying; the other two were bought preowned and just lucked out regarding accuracy. The only one I haven’t held onto was the SLA021 (MM300) that never fit my flat 6.5” wrist to my satisfaction.

 

Revisited the shop today - the watch again was -3 in the same position as before
The AD mate of mine said lets test it crown down and so we attached to a pad and will test like that
so, we're trying and having a good look. Obviously only wearing is a true test but this will give some numbers

I'd love an SLA033 Willard reissue - just cant afford em
The originals have gone silly money - and cant afford em
The homages coming out of China are good value, but I bought one once (Doxa homage) and never again
So if I want the look, it'll have to be this one - and hope for a decent movement - and possibly pay my watchmaker £200 to strip, reassemble, oil & regulate properly

 

Simon if you’re trying to scratch a Captain Willard itch, look at the SLA049 or the SLA051. Both are essentially same watch except the 049 is a limited edition with a blue bezel whereas the 051 has a black bezel and is a bit less money. Both come with a nice SS bracelet as well as an extra strap. Both sell new in the $3000 range but in the $2000 range preowned.

I have both the 049 and 033. The 049 is 44mm compared to the 45mm 033, but the 033 is only 19mm at the lugs whereas the 049 is 20mm. Also the 049 crown is easier to use than that of the 033.

^^^ my 049 on an Uncle Seiko rubber strap

My 033 on an Uncle Seiko rubber strap

Both of the above watches have 8L35 movements

 

I concur that 8L35’s aren’t regulated either although from my limited experience they’re unregulated a helluva lot better than 6R36’s I’ve also owned. However I do get your point that just because a specific watch might have an 8L35 doesn’t mean necessarily that it will scratch that itch.

Thus far I’ve owned four watches with 8L35’s - SLA021, SLA033, SLA043 & SLA049. All ran between +2 and +6 seconds per day with minimal positional variance. Two of the watches I bought new from a local AD and was able to have run on a timegrapher before buying; the other two were bought preowned and just lucked out regarding accuracy. The only one I haven’t held onto was the SLA021 (MM300) that never fit my flat 6.5” wrist to my satisfaction.

Higher-quality movements like the 8L tend to have better isochronism and lower positional variance, so they have better precision, even if their accuracy is still low due to a lack of regulation. There is also the difference between regulation and adjustment.

 

Superlative pictorial analysis Professor!

 

Simon,
Why not buy a pre-owned Seiko Willard reissue with the 6R movement, then if the accuracy is all over the place, have your favorite watchmaker change the 6R out for NH35 or even a 4R movement? A couple of hundred dollars is better then the price difference of the 8L models? Dare I write Rdunae? My Willard/ Turtle, was $180. Sapphire crystal, NH35, movement and ran a concise +2 seconds a day, every day. I bought the original and happy to have Seiko 6105-8110 was the best choice for me. Vance.

 

thankyou - Interesting - can the 6r be changed out for a NH35? I have had a couple and they were all pretty solid???
I have been searching for a while for an original but prices have gone up and up and it seems good originals ones are few n far between

 

I am quite happy with my spb243 (6r35) on wrist it runs pretty consistently on +7

 

I have had a handful of watches with the 8L calibre, all of which ran within +3 seconds except for the SLA021, which ran +9 seconds… but it ran a consistent 9-seconds pace. My past watches with the 6R, however, could be +3 seconds one day, and +19 seconds the next, and then -11 seconds on the third, with no rhyme or reason.

Having made the contrast, I will admit to this: watches are more than their movements, and their overall aesthetics and features have to be factored into the ownership joy. Andy Warhol didn’t even wind his Cartier Tank… the watch could’ve housed a wooden tooth, for all he cared.

I love the 6R-based Willard, and if I find a preowned one for a good enough price, I wouldn’t mind owning it, even if I have to adjust the time every 3 or 4 days.






——————
Ticking away the moments that make up a dull day.

Wise words.
I love my green Willard.