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Spacer ring must fit of course, so you need to have one build for this purpose, as Mariomart has written before. If you want to use a 24xx dial on a 22xx movement, the dial must be reworked on the backside to fit. Minute and hour hand of a 24xx movement fits on a 22xx movement, second hand doesn't. A Seiko second hand might fit as it has roughly the same diameter, but I never tried, though.
 

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I have a question on the 2414 movements......
The rotor turns normally in CW rotation but is not wanting to move freely in CCW rotation
Is there a simple fix to free up the CCW rotation of the rotor? thanks, James.
 

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Jim, I assume you are referring to the 2415/16 auto. movement. 2414 is manual only.

This diagram shows the flow of power from the Rotor to the Mainspring for CCW rotation of the Rotor.
If one of the Reversing Wheels fails to unlock, the rotor will be unable to turn in one direction. You can see that the 2nd Reversing Wheel (the wheel on the right) could prevent CCW rotation of the rotor if it fails to unlock.

The red discs represent the jewel discs inside the Reversing Wheels which lock and unlock depending upon the direction of rotation of the Rotor.

15463731

photo: mine

Experienced Vostok repair man and WUS member Odessa200 recommends removing the Reversing Wheels and soaking them in a solvent such as Varsol, kerosene or gasoline for several hours or overnight. I would use a small glass jar with tight fitting lid and give it a good shake to help the solvent flush the inner parts. He also recommends installing them in opposite positions from their original positions. That is, the 1st Wheel (the left wheel in the photo) should be installed in the 2nd Reversing Wheel position. The Wheels are identical and can be installed in either position.

No lubrication is necessary or recommended. If this fails to fix the issue, the failed Reversing Wheel should be replaced.

See also this article:
Vostok 2415 / 2416 Self Winding Function, and Reversing...
 

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Thanks for chiming in Matt, Yes the movement is a new 2416 from Meranom with the blued screws and polished reversing wheels. Do I remove the one screw on the part that puts the tension on the wheels and then remove the wheels to soak?
 

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Do I remove the one screw on the part that puts the tension on the wheels and then remove the wheels to soak?
Yes. Remove the Retainer first. DO NOT lose the very tiny Retainer screw !!
Loosen it then grasp it very carefully with tweezers to lift it. Most people are not adept enough with tweezers to do this without losing the screw, so you could use a piece of Rodico or tape to lift the screw and to also set it in place to install the Retainer.

I know the proper method to remove gears / wheels is to grasp them from the side with tweezers, or to gently grab a spoke but that is not always easy with the Reversing Wheels. They are in an awkward position and sit on a post. You could flip the entire movement upside down and they will fall off. I tried grasping them with tweezers from the top but the tips of the tweezers could damage a tooth or poke inside the jewel disc bearing cavity.
You could also use Rodico or tape to lift them and to set them in place to install them.
 

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Thanks Matt, I will probably attempt it today I will let you know how it goes, thanks again sir best regards, James.
 

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I went ahead and opened it up and blasted the wheels with some Chemtronics compressed nitrogen and that seemed to free it up a bit. Now I have it on a winder I will check it in the morning to see if it is freed up if not I will work on the wheels,
thanks Matt and best regards.
 

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Well I had to remove the wheels and soak them in mineral spirits for a few hrs, then I blew them out with my latest
watch bench tool, a Chemtronics carbon dioxide blaster and the rotor is almost working normally I think it will break in the rest of the way. Getting the wheels off and on was not that big a big deal using Rodico and a magnetized screwdriver.
Thank you for the tips Matt, the first thing I would have done is grab the wheels with a tweezer and probably have damaged one of the wheels. Thanks again Matt, best regards, James.
 

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Well I had to remove the wheels and soak them in mineral spirits for a few hrs, then I blew them out with my latest
watch bench tool, a Chemtronics carbon dioxide blaster and the rotor is almost working normally I think it will break in the rest of the way. Getting the wheels off and on was not that big a big deal using Rodico and a magnetized screwdriver.
Thank you for the tips Matt, the first thing I would have done is grab the wheels with a tweezer and probably have damaged one of the wheels. Thanks again Matt, best regards, James.
Excellent news, however as a tip NEVER use a magnetised tool near a watch mechanism, it can affect way too many things. Rodico, or even Bluetak would be a safer choice if you think tweezers would be a risk.
 

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Thank you Mario, You cannot use a slightly magnetized screwdriver if you demagnetize the watch after you finish working on it?
 

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As always Sensei I bow to the master, thank you sir and have a great day.
 

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Mario has a great amount of experience with Vostok Amphibia and Komandirskies, both new and vintage. He has one of the best collections of Vostoks and much experience working on them. However, he tends to be rather modest in imparting his knowledge to us, but when he does it's always very helpful.

Those Air Force chaps are more reserved than the Army lads....
 

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Brilliant read, just bought my first (2nd hand) amphibia and love it. However it had an issue when I bought it, was running about 45mins to and hour fast a day, popped the back and could see the hairspring was bent. I have ordered a replacement from Germany but am fairly new to all of this so unsure about attempting the replacement. Absolutely gutted as love the watch. Anyway cracking read, if anyone fancies giving me some pointers I'm all ears (don't buy 2nd might be one I'm guessing) . (I have dropped you a dm Matt).
Cheers.
 

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.... the hairspring was bent. I have ordered a replacement....
Did you order the Hairspring itself, Hairspring attached to the Balance Wheel or the entire Balance and Balance Cock assembly?

Replacing the Hairsping itself is quite a bit more difficult for the beginner than replacing the entire assembly, which also requires some practice. Replacing the Balance Wheel with Hairspring attached is also often a challenge as the Hairspring stud must be installed into the stud holder. We can help guide you and there are some good photos and videos but you will need to practice before you attempt this. Try removing and installing the old, damaged Hairspring. Do it as often as necessary until you are able to do it properly without the least damage to the Hairspring and the Balance pinions.

If necessary, bring it to a watch repairman with the new part.
 

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Did you order the Hairspring itself, Hairspring attached to the Balance Wheel or the entire Balance and Balance Cock assembly?

Replacing the Hairsping itself is quite a bit more difficult for the beginner than replacing the entire assembly, which also requires some practice. We can help guide you and there are some good photos and videos but you will need to practice before you attempt this. Try removing and installing the old, damaged Hairspring. Do it as often as necessary until you are able to do it properly without the least damage to the Hairspring and the Balance pinions.

If necessary, bring it to a watch repairman with the new part.
Thanks for getting back to me Matt. I ordered the balance wheel and hairspring as one but not the entire balance assembly unfortunately.
I hadn't thought about removing and reinstalling the broken one to get a feel for it and get used to it, thank you. Also thank you for the offer of help, I feel it will be needed.
 

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Thanks for getting back to me Matt. I ordered the balance wheel and hairspring as one but not the entire balance assembly unfortunately.
I hadn't thought about removing and reinstalling the broken one to get a feel for it and get used to it, thank you. Also thank you for the offer of help, I feel it will be needed.
I have been looking for the entire assembles but am not able to find any at the moment from
Meranom and the like.
 
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The entire Balance assembly with the Balance Cock / Bridge is sold by Meranom but it is often not in stock.

It fits all 24xx Vostok movements.

Perhaps if there is a strong demand for these, Meranom will stock them more often.
I suggest to anyone who wants one, send Meranom a message and add the assembly to your Wish List / Waiting List. This will help Meranom to gauge demand.
 

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Hey all, sorry if this is off-topic but I wasn't sure if it warrants its own thread. Does anyone know a good place to get a Raketa Big Zero serviced? Mine loses like minutes a day, but I do not feel comfortable trying to do it myself. Or does anyone on the forum do this? I'm in DC, USA fwiw.

Thanks for any help!
 
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