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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sometimes my wife's liquidation gets some "interesting" watches. This one is a customer return. It looks like the customer returned it because it leaked. But he didn't return it right away so it could be repaired. Instead he left it to rust completely before returning it. :-|

So a great watch is dead... :-(

...and I have an opportunity to build up my own custom watch.I going to see if I can strip this down, clean out the rust, and install a new movement, dial and hands.

That will be a challenge, I've never worked on a watch before. :-!

Advice welcome.
Where do I start?
What kind of movement fits this Tissor Seastar 1000 case?
Where to find a choice of dials and hands?




 

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Sorry to post in a Forum I just lurk in, but is there a possibility the watch has been wrongly manufactured?
What I wonder is, how come it leaked? You do a wonderful job and resurrect this watch, and then it gets waterfilled in the first shower.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I don't know why it leaked. Certainly a screw in caseback is a better design. But this model certainly has lots of happy owners in the forum.

Maybe the owner didn't understand the screw down crown. Maybe it wasn't closed. I have a friend that broke a crown off by prying it out. He had never seen a screw down crown and thought it was just stuck in there.

I might test the water resistance of the case alone by swimming with it before I install a replacement movement. But after all it is done I might not swim with it anyway. If it doesn't work out I've got half a dozen good divers (including a nice blue Seastar 1000) so I won't need to take it in the water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Step 2: Remove the movement.

I found an article online that showed me where to find the stem release button. The rest was easy.











Next up: Cleaning the watch. Any suggestions?

I've actually started. Most of the rust washed/wiped out easily. But some rust is sticking to the inside of the crystal. I'm guessing the crystal has an antireflective coating. How can I remove the rust without damaging the coating?
 

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try some mil dish soap

if that doesn't do it .. polish it with a soft cloth and toothpaste (but if there's an anti-reflective coating you'll damage it and end up replacing the crystal)

Have you tried contacting Tissot for replacements parts? You might be able to buy the crystal, dial, hands, and even movement (I don't know what their policy is for selling parts to individuals)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you tried contacting Tissot for replacements parts? You might be able to buy the crystal, dial, hands, and even movement (I don't know what their policy is for selling parts to individuals)
I'm not really interested in just rebuilding another Seastar 1000. I already own a very nice blue one. Also, I'm guessing that the parts would probably cost more than a used watch. I'll use this chance to build something unique.

Mike.
 

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try using some "simple green" industrial cleanser. u can get it at most hardware stores. i use it all the time for everything from washing my car to cleaning air conditioner coils. it should be fine for the coating on the crystal.
 

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Can I put a Miyota movement in here? Can I take a movement from an Invicta 8926 and put it right into this case?

Regards,
Mike.
If you don't replace with another ETA 2824, you'll have to find a movement with the same specs. Since you are not planning to use the same parts (dial, hands), dial feet and hand size isn't so important, BUT the stem height needs to be similar so stem tube, stem and movement all line up properly. The other problem is the movement holder. This needs to fit the new movement or modified to fit. Miyota may fit but I can't recall the stem height. I know the dial feet position and hand sizes are different from the 2824. Maybe a Seiko.

You might find a quartz movement with same dimensions as ETA 2824. Not sure which exactly (maybe ISA 1198?). Others on this site will surely know.

You can get specs here:
http://www.citizen.co.jp/miyota_mvt/download/index.html#8215
http://www.isaswiss.com/en/technical-info.html
https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=3&tabid=28
 

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If you don't replace with another ETA 2824, you'll have to find a movement with the same specs. Since you are not planning to use the same parts (dial, hands), dial feet and hand size isn't so important, BUT the stem height needs to be similar so stem tube, stem and movement all line up properly. The other problem is the movement holder. This needs to fit the new movement or modified to fit. Miyota may fit but I can't recall the stem height. I know the dial feet position and hand sizes are different from the 2824. Maybe a Seiko.

You might find a quartz movement with same dimensions as ETA 2824. Not sure which exactly (maybe ISA 1198?). Others on this site will surely know.

You can get specs here:
http://www.citizen.co.jp/miyota_mvt/download/index.html#8215
http://www.isaswiss.com/en/technical-info.html
https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=3&tabid=28
What would be really cool is to find this out and be able to use quartz cases
and put in mechanical movements!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Step 3: Cleaning the watch. Most of the rust washed/wiped out easily. But some rust stuck to the inside of the crystal. Removing the rust meant I damaged a bit of the antireflective coating. Fortunately it doesn't really show when you look from the outside of the watch, only from the inside.

I still have some tiny nooks and crannies to clean out, but the job is basically done:





Next Up: I found a movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Step 4: Finding a movement.

I found a steal-of-a-deal on a Tissot PR50 with the same movement, a Tissot branded ETA 2824-2. I intend to pull that movement out of the PR50 and transplant it into the Seastar case. I don't like to kill an other watch but the movement is worth more than the used watch alone.

This is the one:


In these 2 pictures I simply laid the Seastar case (back removed) on top of the PR50, one with the crown and stem in place (obscuring the date of the PR50 and one with crown and stem removed. The curved crystal acts as a magnifying glass so in the picture it really looks like the transplant has been done.




What do you think of that look? I think it's not bad just as-is. I'm thinking of getting different hands, probably larger red hands more in keeping with the diver case, but perhaps keeping that dial. If that doesn't look right, I might have to get another dial. For now I'll do the whole transplant with that movement, dial, and hands. Then look for other parts.

What do you think I should do with it?
 
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