[Thibaud Frogat]

Hi Everyone ! ? I am Thibaud, a "new" 24 years old & French watch enthusiast ! (sorry if you find some mistakes in my spelling or some odd wording or crazy sentences) ^^"

This post is about picking a first really good quality watch to begin your collection. In the following you will find my story, my ideas for a first watch and some rules that I think will be shared by others but come from my personal point of view. The objectives : discussing what watch to pick in a given situtation (or defining some good contenders to choose from). Enjoy reading and sharing your thoughts !!

To "briefly" explain why I post :

1) A quick story of my journey - you can pass it if you prefer, it is not that interesting but as I am looking for some help in my first steps in my watch passion feel like I should open up a little bit so that you can understand me (I am usually a very private guy ^^).
I have been interested in watches for a long time now. I have had the chance to have my first mechanical watch at 13 (it was an open heart automatic rectangular Fossil. It was massive, it is the case even for the today me !). I picked at the store with my parents for Christmas. At that time, I felt like a grown-up and was very proud of it. I enjoyed it for like 2 years but ended up breaking the sapphire glass of the watch as I banged it around. At that time was too ashamed to say it to my parents nor grandparents and I never bring it to get repaired (I knew nothing about watch at that time, I didn't know if the damages where bad or reparable). After that, I did not wear any watch for a long time.
But finally, March 2017, I moved from my parent for my education and I found the watch I have had hidden in my room : it immediately brought the passion straight back to my face. I wore the Fossil a little bit, but it was really really big and chunky (and I still have not replace the glass !) so I dived in the rabbit hole of watch enthusiast content on the internet (YouTube, forums, second hand websites, watch makers' official websites&#8230 and bought me a few pieces to quench my thirst for new watch discoveries.
I pulled the trigger a few time on "little" purchases : a Casio World Time (AE-1200WHD), a Timex Southview (quartz, blue dial), a Scurfa Diver D-1 500 (quartz, black case and yellow dial) and finally a Seagull 1963 (36mm).
I will try to take some pics of my collection and show it to you guys so you can have an idea of how I wear them and how they look on my "little" ≈18 cm (7 inches ?) wrist.
I really enjoy all these watches for different reason except the Timex as I finally understood that I find it a bit too large for my wrist (to my taste) even though the watch is only 43 mm lug to lug (personal preferences in size but it also may be because the dial looks a bit "empty" or "gangly" if it makes sense). Anyway ^^

• End of story for those who have spared themselves the reading)

Now that you have a little idea of my journey up to now, I can explain you what has brought me here to create this Post. I will turn 25 in a few weeks and am about to start my first "real" job this summer and I would like to commemorate this year (2021) as a turn point in my life with a special watch Yet, I am not sure I have found this watch (this is where you can help me with some advice and guidance).
I am also sure this post can help some people on the forum who start their watch journey or who want to have / share some thoughts on everyday classic watches.
During these 3 ½ years of interest in watches I have saved enough money and I feel comfortable buying my first "high" end watch (if it means anything ^^). Don't worry, I still did a lot of work by myself on the subject during these years and I have defined some criteria (not inflexible but important all the same to give us some guidance) and a "shortlist" of example / contenders.
Criterias :

• "Classic" style (as I have a kinda normal style and am not neither extravagant nor have I a particular low-profile personality)
• Versatile as I work in a field where I meet some important clients dressed up (suits no tie) sometimes but am in business casual outfits most of the time at the office and at home. I wear however not often very sporty outfit
• Robust as I am such a clumsy guy. Fortunately, I do not mind having some scratches on my watches as I want them to be part of the fun of life, but I want something that can take some daily beating (especially the movement)
• Easily serviced : I do not want a watch I have to pay 50% of the price to service. In house movement doesn't matter to me
• Accurate : I would like the watch to be less than -10/+10 a day
• Size : diameter of less than 42 mm and Lug to lug of less than 47/48 mm (the seagull 1963 has long lugs - 46mm - despite its 36mm diameter and it already feel a bit long) I can go a little bit over 47 if the lugs are curved. On the one hand, my sweet spot is 36 to 38 mm but on the other hand, I really like how the Casio (42 x 45 mm) looks on my wrist and
• Budget : I would like to stay under 4000 € (≈4.700 USD or 3.500 Pounds) but can stretch the budget up to 5.000 € if I have a real crush / find a golden opportunity.
• Market ? : I have never purchased any "high end" watch at an AD nor on the internet so I am open to discover either white or grey market (if the discount is substantial - I know about watchfinder.com / chrono24 & chronext but if you have other reliable plateforms, I would love you to share them in this discussion)

I tend to favor metal bracelet because of versatility (not as fragile as leather and less sporty than fabric or rubber) but am open to anything else as I like switching straps & bracelet. And finally, I tend to like black / blue / green dial more than white ones (except with Grand Seiko watches… But who doesn't love the Snowflake ?)
Here is a list of watches I really like in terms of style (and at every budget !) I have considered at some point (and may be with the final one !) :

• Seiko SRPE57
• Lorier Falcon II (I love this design but at this price point I can't imagine the bracelet to be that good)
• Astor & Banks Fortitude Silver (mostly for the style and the anti-magnetism)
• Tissot gentleman Powermatic (I like it but it looks big and I don't know how it works but I feel like the second hand moves in fits and starts)
• Seiko SPB167J1
• Longines Spirit L3.810.4.53.6 (a long lug to lug but I haven't seen it in person, it really looks like a solid contender)
• Tudor Black Bay 36 (looks like a solid contender too)
• Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (I don't know much about Baume & Mercier : it is a beauty, but it looks a bit expensive for what it gives - waiting to have your ideas about it)
• Grand Seiko SBGA285 (I absolutely love the spring drive movement, but I don't have a clue about its robustness as a movement and about the service costs that comes with the watch)
• Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (231.10.39.21.01.002)

(credit : Google Image)

I don't really consider acquiring the first 5s of the list (quality and accuracy concerns) as the special watch I was talking about at the beginning of this post but it might give some inspiration for people who are looking for a good watch to start or to continue their journey in watches (and also I would love to read your thought about them as I find them pretty attractive !)
As you have seen, I rationalize a lot (never seen the Lorier, Astor & Banks, the Baume & Mercier). This is for a good reason : I love doing it ! And at the end, even after being as rational as I can, I will end up buying the one I prefer among those that have survive the rationalizing process !
I am looking forward to having your thought on the list of watches I mentioned above. What is your favorite one and why ? Have you another watch in mind that could be worth mentioning ? And finally, if you have advice or thoughts you wanna share, do not hesitate !!

I hope this long post has not frighten you, thank you for taking the time to read it and Congratulation for making it to this point !!
I know my English can be "rough" or even full of mistake, I hope it didn't make it too unpleasant to read, do not hesitate to let me know if you have spotted mistakes, I'll do my best to correct the errors.

PS : sorry again for the long post, I'll be shorter in the future, I promise !! ?

 

[Chasovnik]

Please...run now. Don't fall down the watch hole. It's deep...and increasingly expensive the deeper you fall. Run now, while you have a chance...while you still have meaningful relationships. RUN NOW WHILE THERE'S HOPE FOR YOU!

It's not all bad, the watch journey. But mostly is. It's fraught with heartbreak and people who don't understand. The only consoling will be on these pages, from other watch weirdos who likely live far away.

I haven't read your whole post, but just enough to see the danger that's ahead for you...will read the whole post later today (when I've finished obsessively scrolling the forums looking for obscure parts for my pointless watch projects)...

 

[Porky4774]

Like chasovnik, the rabbit hole is very deep.

 

[INAMINUTE]

My tip would be NOT to spend a lot of money until you have really learned what you like, and this can take a good few years. My suggestion would be a nice dress diver, something that looks good with a suit, or good on the beach. Here are few below, The Chris Ward C65 41mm, and the Richard Le Grand Oceanfairer. Of course there are hundreds to choose from out there

 

[top-quark]

One and done:

To critique your suggestions:

• Tissot / Longines / etc. - you'll be trying to sell these in no time flat unless you have superhuman willpower
• Tudor BB 36 is tiny. The BB 41 is better sized but the design doesn't scale. Tudor Ranger is better than either
• The Baumatic is a great movement in a slightly dull watch. Another one that you'll probably look to move on and you'll find it quite hard to sell.
• SBGA285 is the bottom-of-the-range Springdrive and if you actually want a Snowflake, you should probably get that instead
• Aquaterra - nothing wrong with it. Nothing at all. That said, this one is the hot model.

 

[sticky]

Excellent advice from Inaminute. It’s so temping for me to suggest a Grand Seiko but it’d be a huge shame if you got one then decided that you didn’t like it. Starting more affordable will give you chance to get a Snbowflake later on if you so wish.

 

[FuzzyPeaches]

First watch, especially high end, is a personal moment. Enjoy that moment for what it is. Sounds like you’ve worked hard to get to that point. Congratulations on that. So instead of suggesting something, just enjoy the journey. And welcome, from one new guy to another.

 

[imaCoolRobot]

The seiko won’t meet your accuracy specs

Get a blackbay 58.
I’m hearing that it is specced to -2/+4 a day.
Your English is fine. Much better than the average English speaker’s.

 

[calangoman]

If you're buying new, then the Longines is the best price/quality (in my opinion). Should be easy to find an AD where you can try it out.

By all accounts, the Lorier is a great watch, but I have no personal experience with it.

If money is no issue, the Aqua Terra is the king of your lineup. You can probably find one second hand for the price of the Longines.

 

[Nokie]

AT any day for my vote.

IMHO, I would spend some time here reviewing various threads on this site to learn more about this hobby. LOTS of excellent information here if you look around a bit.

Good luck.

 

[Ignatius J Reilly]

I'm 26 and pretty new here myself. Don't have advice per se since I'm not a seasoned collector, but some things that I'm thinking about as I consider buying watches and that might be interesting to you:

• My aim is to have a 3-4 watch collection of "mid-range" watches - i.e., watches that are elegant and fun, have good movements, and can get a nod from WIS, but aren't so expensive that I worry about wearing them. Clearly the line of what is expensive varies from person to person, but I wouldn't want to spend more than 5K absolute max on a watch.
• In addition to one or two watches with sentimental value, that collection would be: dress watch, everyday watch, fun/oddball watch, and beater. So for me, the dream lineup is:

1. Dress Watch: Junghans Max Bill. It's not a true dress watch, but as I don't live a formal lifestyle it serves as a dress watch for me. I have a quartz version that was a gift from my mom; considering eventually upgrading to an automatic, although there are advantages to the quartz as well since I don't wear it daily. (It actually matches a lot of your criteria, but the curved crystal with skinny bezel has a tendency to scratch - since it's around US$1000, it could be a nice way to explore the more restrained aesthetic. Also comes in a black dial version that might be more your style) [not my picture]

2. Everyday watch: Tudor Black Bay 58 - Seems like the perfect everyday watch. Out of your list, since this is the bracket you're looking at, I would probably go for BB or the Aqua Terra. You know what they look like.

3. Fun/oddball watch: Swatch Sistem 51 - I own a green one and wear it all the time. A truly fun watch.

4. Beater: G-Shock/Inox/something super tough, probably quartz.

That collection is super personal and probably lower budget than you're looking for, except for the BB. My point is that since you seem to have a sustained love for watches, this first watch will probably be the basis of a collection, whether a small and modest one like I aspire to or a bigger one. So perhaps that's a way to think about your purchase.

I will also add that I wouldn't feel comfortable buying the BB or any similarly priced watch without trying it on in person.

Sorry this post is more about my own collection than about yours, but hope it's helpful. Enfin, c'est votre choix à vous - cet hobby n'existe que pour apporter du plaisir.

 

[Histrionics]

Congrats on the new job mate. Condolences on getting sucked into the world of watches .

Of your list, the BB36 would be my choice. An earlier poster mentioned that it was too small, but that's completely a matter of perspective. I have very average sized wrists and I thought it fit great when I tried it on. You just sort of have to like that sizing.

Check out Nomos, they'll have plenty in your budget range. Especially the Club and Ahoi lines.

You certainly can't go wrong with the Omega AT, although I don't love its date position.

Also check out the Halios Universa. If you like it, they're going to release a new batch relatively soon, and you can sign up for email notifications.

 

[Thibaud Frogat]

he trigger a few time on "little" purchases : a Casio World Time (AE-1200WHD), a Timex Southview (quartz, blue dial), a Scurfa Diver D-1 500 (quartz, black case and yellow dial) and finally a Seagull 1963 (36mm).
I will try to take some pics of my collection and show it to you guys so you can have an idea of how I wear them and how they look on my "little" ≈18 cm (7 inches) wrist

[/QUOTE]

Here are some picks I promise !

 

[OnlyOneMore]

I'd recommend taking a look at the Hamilton Khaki line. Casual, but dress up well, solid proven movements and well under budget. It'll give you a sharp looking, well respected watch to satisfy the urge and buy you some time to develop a sense of what you're after in a pricier watch

 

[Bird-Dog]

No contest. Omega AT. Very versatile, and it fits well in most business situations. And, in my experience, is judged to convey only positive things about the wearer unless or until they prove otherwise.

Wearing an Omega says you make good decisions. You're ambitious, but solid and reliable, not flighty or overly eccentric. You appreciate quality, but don't feel the need to advertise it with a higher profile status watch. At least these are the impressions I'm inclined to when taking the measure of someone I'm dealing with who's wearing one. YMMV

I see a lot of people on the forum say nobody notices their watch at work, but then turn right around and make judgemental comments about what a co-worker or boss or client were wearing. People constantly make judgements and sum you up without telling you they're doing it, on what basis, or why. They may not care whether you're a watch enthusiast or not, but may very well notice the watch you're wearing and make assumptions about you based on it without telling you so.

 

[rsgould]

1. Anything from the Nomos lineup. A Club in particular seems well-suited to your age, and will take you from the office (eventually) through the weekends with ease.

2. 20+ years ago the watch to recommend to a young man in your situation. would have been Rolex. Unfortunately Rolex has priced themselves out of this particularly market. But you might consider vintage piece, which should offer the level of reliability you want with a bit of extra care. I recommend a 16000 datejust on an Oyster bracelet. No flashy fluted bezel or jubilee, simple, sleek, timeless, looks great with everything, takes a strap well, and will at least hold its value. At 36mm with long lugs it will fit well.

3. Black Bay 58. Close to a “do anything” watch, though not quite appropriate if you’re wearing suits regularly. Future classic.

 

[rsgould]

I’ll add Baume & Mercier is a solid choice, but the Hampton 10522 is their best design in the current catalog. From the Clifton range the dial with applied Arabic numerals is the better choice vs the Baumatic with a crosshairs dial.

An Omega Aqua Terra does not read like a young man’s watch to me...

 

[Bird-Dog]

1. Anything from the Nomos lineup. A Club in particular seems well-suited to your age, and will take you from the office (eventually) through the weekends with ease.

2. 20+ years ago the watch to recommend to a young man in your situation. would have been Rolex. Unfortunately Rolex has priced themselves out of this particularly market. But you might consider vintage piece, which should offer the level of reliability you want with a bit of extra care. I recommend a 16000 datejust on an Oyster bracelet. No flashy fluted bezel or jubilee, simple, sleek, timeless, looks great with everything, takes a strap well, and will at least hold its value. At 36mm with long lugs it will fit well.

3. Black Bay 58. Close to a "do anything" watch, though not quite appropriate if you're wearing suits regularly. Future classic.

I'll add Baume & Mercier is a solid choice, but the Hampton 10522 is their best design in the current catalog. From the Clifton range the dial with applied Arabic numerals is the better choice vs the Baumatic with a crosshairs dial.

An Omega Aqua Terra does not read like a young man's watch to me...

Wait! What? A Rolex would be prefect if it wasn't so damned expensive, but an Omega is too old? I think you've got it backwards. And I mean not just today, but going back the 20-years you mentioned. In fact, going back 50 years or more, Omega has always had a younger, sportier connotation... the BMW to Rolex's Mercedes-Benz (w/ hands to match).

 

[slcbbrown]

welcome

 

[slorollin]

Way too wordy. I need tighter sound bites. Where's Nokie when you need him?
Just buy a watch already. It's really not that big of a deal. Sheesh