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An “Affordables” guy considering a “luxury” watch.

8.1K views 62 replies 40 participants last post by  JoeRN  
#1 ·
Since getting into watches about a year ago, I haven’t been able to justify the price of any “luxury” watches. It’s not that I don’t appreciate the details that push up the price, but rather I can typically find an affordable watch which has a similar style, made with a solid movement from ETA, Sellita, Miyota etc. for a small fraction of the price. This especially true when perusing the many awesome offerings from microbrands that this forum has exposed me to. Why buy aTudor Pelagos when I can get a beautiful NTH Nacken?
Having said all that, I suspect my wife will, at some point, ultimately by me an expensive watch to mark a certain milestone/special occasion since she knows how much I enjoy watches. So, of coarse this set me down the path of “If I were to get an expensive watch
(under $4k), what would I want?” This has been an enjoyable exercise, but stressful at the same time because I know if I do get an expensive watch, it will be the only one I get. I’m not a dressy guy, so dress watches are out. I would like either A: something different, that simply can’t be had a lower price,like the Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope. Or B: Something that justifies its price by having a beautiful case, a gorgeous dial that gets all the details right (proportions, color-matched date wheel etc) and a nicely decorated movement that isn’t found in my affordable watches, such as the Omega Seamaster AquaTerra Co-axial. I would love to hear anything you guys think I should consider. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

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#3 ·
I was going to suggest the Aqua Terra as that is the route I plan on going when I make the jump. Beautiful watch all around with lots of dial/hand configurations to choose from.

Also, make sure you let your wife know, as the non-WIS will choose differently, and watch taste is so personal to begin with.

Congrats on having an awesome wife who supports your hobby!

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#4 ·
Oversteer,
I don’t think I would spend a lot in a pilot watch as there are some very nice options that are more affordable. The reason I used the Junghans as an example was more for its unique design and beautifully machined bezel and case.
DubRub, luckily my wife wouldn’t make that purchase without knowing exactly what I want. She’s knows I’m way too picky with watches.
 
#8 ·
I remember you posting here about that, and that's what started my obsession with it. Thanks a lot bud!!!

J/K, I am glad to hear you are still enjoying it and that it is living up to the expectations

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#10 ·
Speedmaster; the all around one watch. You can change the flavor using straps [leather, nato, perlon,etc.)
 
#13 ·
For the finish you cannot fault Grand Seiko but if you want more recognizable watch I’d go for Omega Seamaster
 
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#15 ·
Re: An "Affordables" guy considering a "luxury" watch.

This may not be the answer you are looking for, but I have been in the exact same quandary as you recently as my wife was looking to buy me a luxury watch to celebrate a significant accomplishment. I am mostly an affordable watch guy though. I really have a hard time dropping that kind of money (my budget was $5K) on a watch when a $200 beater with ETA movement tells the time just as well for the most part. Luxury watches can really drop in price/resale too. For example, I was out browsing this last weekend and was looking at the Tudor Ranger with ETA movement. I really like this watch: retail is $2,950, AD offered 10% discount, local used watch shop had a nice version for $2,150, and you can find them on-line pre-owned for $1,500 to $1,750 for nice examples. So even this nice Tudor is going to drop 50% from retail within two years. Not a big deal if you're going to hold the watch for 10+ years, but still even down the road you might find it tough to break even. Not a big deal if you're only spending $200 on a watch, who cares, buy what you want! But if you normally buy affordables and then want to drop $4-5K on a watch and have it lose half its value when you walk out of the AD - well, that's just a hard pill to swallow.

My solution - either buy pre-owned for luxury watches or buy Rolex stainless steel sports models. The answer for me was a pre-owned Rolex two tone blue dial/bezel Submariner (Bluesy). I got it for 30% below market value, so even with the cost of a service I am money ahead. It's like putting money in the bank. Maybe not an investment, but as long as you don't lose it or have it stolen your money is safely tucked away in the value retention of that watch. To me that really helps to ease the pain of spending so much on a luxury watch because in my mind I didn't throw that money away. Instead the money is just tied up in that watch for a while. I can always cash it in and get all of my money back or I can just wear the watch every day, enjoy it, and then maybe sell it in 20-30 years and get my money back plus inflation. I know a used Rolex SS sports model is above your budget, but I think it makes more sense for you, being so close, to consider stretching more into a pre-owned Explorer I or Submariner. If you don't go that route, then at least buy pre-owned and let someone else take that luxury watch depreciation hit.

I've done a ton of research on this and most everyone says that it's mostly the Rolex SS sports models and Patek Philippe that hold their resale value like this when it comes to luxury watches. The Rolex sports models are available too, don't believe everything you read about them. But their current scarcity is driving up the pre-owned market right now. If you go this route it may actually make sense to buy new as long as you're going to hold the watch for at least 5 years.

Here's my Bluesy. I put it on a stainless steel bracelet to tone it down a bit for work.

 
#49 ·
Re: An "Affordables" guy considering a "luxury" watch.

This may not be the answer you are looking for, but I have been in the exact same quandary as you recently as my wife was looking to buy me a luxury watch to celebrate a significant accomplishment. I am mostly an affordable watch guy though. I really have a hard time dropping that kind of money (my budget was $5K) on a watch when a $200 beater with ETA movement tells the time just as well for the most part. Luxury watches can really drop in price/resale too. For example, I was out browsing this last weekend and was looking at the Tudor Ranger with ETA movement. I really like this watch: retail is $2,950, AD offered 10% discount, local used watch shop had a nice version for $2,150, and you can find them on-line pre-owned for $1,500 to $1,750 for nice examples. So even this nice Tudor is going to drop 50% from retail within two years. Not a big deal if you're going to hold the watch for 10+ years, but still even down the road you might find it tough to break even. Not a big deal if you're only spending $200 on a watch, who cares, buy what you want! But if you normally buy affordables and then want to drop $4-5K on a watch and have it lose half its value when you walk out of the AD - well, that's just a hard pill to swallow.

My solution - either buy pre-owned for luxury watches or buy Rolex stainless steel sports models. The answer for me was a pre-owned Rolex two tone blue dial/bezel Submariner (Bluesy). I got it for 30% below market value, so even with the cost of a service I am money ahead. It's like putting money in the bank. Maybe not an investment, but as long as you don't lose it or have it stolen your money is safely tucked away in the value retention of that watch. To me that really helps to ease the pain of spending so much on a luxury watch because in my mind I didn't throw that money away. Instead the money is just tied up in that watch for a while. I can always cash it in and get all of my money back or I can just wear the watch every day, enjoy it, and then maybe sell it in 20-30 years and get my money back plus inflation. I know a used Rolex SS sports model is above your budget, but I think it makes more sense for you, being so close, to consider stretching more into a pre-owned Explorer I or Submariner. If you don't go that route, then at least buy pre-owned and let someone else take that luxury watch depreciation hit.

I've done a ton of research on this and most everyone says that it's mostly the Rolex SS sports models and Patek Philippe that hold their resale value like this when it comes to luxury watches. The Rolex sports models are available too, don't believe everything you read about them. But their current scarcity is driving up the pre-owned market right now. If you go this route it may actually make sense to buy new as long as you're going to hold the watch for at least 5 years.

Here's my Bluesy. I put it on a stainless steel bracelet to tone it down a bit for work.

View attachment 13066741
I hate to possibly be the bearer of bad news, but where did you buy this watch? I believe it may be fake.

First: The lume pip looks wrong even compared to old gen, and the numbers and tick marks on the bezel of two tone subs are also gold color.... see the photo:


At the very minimum you have an aftermarket/fake bezel. Which admittedly someone could have swapped out. Id get this checked by a pro...
 
#16 ·
It's hard to argue against the AT as a "one and only one luxury watch" watch.

P.S. If you really like the Junghans, there's a Poljot that looks very similar... it's about $500.
https://www.poljot24.de/en/poljot-chronograph-airforce.html
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If it weren't too big for my wrists, my runner up might be the Bremont Model 1.
Fill my box... (or, my ongoing search for something other than a black dive watch) - Page 3

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There was a pretty good thread about this last year:
https://www.watchuseek.com/f71/what-would-your-first-non-affordable-purchase-4396538.html
 
#17 ·
Sinn 556IB:


Tudor BB36:


Neither one is mine, nor my picture.
 
#19 ·
I've had a few Rolexes, and they always disappoint in the end. The quality is there. The design is there. What disappoints is that I never feel it is better ENOUGH to justify the outrageous cost, and so I flip them and get something that offers better value.

A couple months ago, I sold my recent Datejust and went for a Seamaster Pro, ceramic. Just like the Omega you're looking at, it has all the details just right, without quite being Rolex-ridiculous expensive. They look more modern, and they have a better movement than Rolex, both in accuracy and power reserve. My SMPc is running +1 sec every 3 days.

I like the Junghans, but the wrecked it by putting a timing bezel on it. The whole idea of a chrono is that one doesn't need a timing bezel.

if I were going to get a Junghans, it would be a Max Bill. They can be considered dress OR casual, and really don't look out of place in either duty. That, or a Mega Solar, in titanium, if available.
 
#22 ·
Just got back from an Omega AD and... I can’t do it. The AT was definitely nice, looked good on my wrist, the size was perfect, but I just couldn’t get anywhere near being able to justify the price. While I was looking at it, the salesperson commented that it looked similar to my Steinhart which I had laid on the counter. While they look nothing alike, they are much closer than their price difference would suggest. The Omega costs more than 10 times the price of my Steinhart. Is it 10 times the watch? Not. Even. Close. I am comparing a three hander to a three hander. Is the finishing on the Omega better. Sure, a little. The movement is certainly better looking, but since my ETA powered Steiny is running +2 seconds/day, probably not any more accurate. When it came down to it, I felt that I would be willing to pay tops 2k for the Omega. I just can’t figure out where there is another 3k of value in that watch.
I think I’m just too much of an affordables type of guy. I read all the reviews, watched all the youtube videos, learned all about the movement and thought, “yeah it’s worth it.” But standing there with those two watches in my hand, I simply couldn’t see it.
 
#23 ·
Just got back from an Omega AD and... I can't do it. The AT was definitely nice, looked good on my wrist, the size was perfect, but I just couldn't get anywhere near being able to justify the price. While I was looking at it, the salesperson commented that it looked similar to my Steinhart which I had laid on the counter. While they look nothing alike, they are much closer than their price difference would suggest. The Omega costs more than 10 times the price of my Steinhart. Is it 10 times the watch? Not. Even. Close. I am comparing a three hander to a three hander. Is the finishing on the Omega better. Sure, a little. The movement is certainly better looking, but since my ETA powered Steiny is running +2 seconds/day, probably not any more accurate. When it came down to it, I felt that I would be willing to pay tops 2k for the Omega. I just can't figure out where there is another 3k of value in that watch.
I think I'm just too much of an affordables type of guy. I read all the reviews, watched all the youtube videos, learned all about the movement and thought, "yeah it's worth it." But standing there with those two watches in my hand, I simply couldn't see it.
You gotta go with your gut otherwise you'll never enjoy that Omega because in your mind you'll always consider the Steinhart your true comfort zone. Maybe find a nice pre-owned AT to try on for size?
 
#24 ·
This seems like a journey not unsimilar to mine. Been affordable hunting for a few years and still am, but earlier in the year finally breached the non-affordable barrier by buying one of my grails, a Breitling Avenger Blackbird.

I'm now getting hooked by the new Tudor Black Bay GMT announced at this year's Baselworld , will see how long I can resist it...

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#26 ·
Stumbled across this Tag while searching the secondhand market and thought it had a very similar look to the Omega (obviously case shape and bezel are very different), and since it’s running an ETA it’s a fraction of the price. I believe it’s using the COSC version of the 2824-2, but I’m not 100% sure of this. Anyway, I know Tag gets a lot of hate but I’m not really sure why. If it’s due to valid reasons regarding quality etc. then I would steer clear. If it’s just some sort of brand cache type of issue, I don’t particularly care. Can you guys shed some light on this for me?
 

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#28 ·
Stumbled across this Tag while searching the secondhand market and thought it had a very similar look to the Omega (obviously case shape and bezel are very different), and since it's running an ETA it's a fraction of the price. I believe it's using the COSC version of the 2824-2, but I'm not 100% sure of this. Anyway, I know Tag gets a lot of hate but I'm not really sure why. If it's due to valid reasons regarding quality etc. then I would steer clear. If it's just some sort of brand cache type of issue, I don't particularly care. Can you guys shed some light on this for me?
^ these aren't similar looking watches, other than dial color. if you want the omega - get the omega. if you're laying out funds for an expensive watch purchase, it really should hit all your major 'likes' rather than be the second option. you'd be dissatisfied otherwise.

tag gets hate on some areas of wus because of brand marketing, use of celebrity endorsers, etc. and a number of other factors, none of which should factor into your decision. do you like it and does it look great on your wrist? that is the question.

i like the aqua terra you referenced - but as a habitual strap changer i prefer the prior model without the integrated strap, more versatile. otherwise it's a solid pick. it would definitely be on my future buy list (i love the gray and blue versions).

oh, and i also like tags by the way - no bashing. good luck with your decision!

 
#27 ·
If your eye tells you the Tag and Omega are similar enough, you might want to let things marinate a bit. They're quite different to my eye. If you really only want one expensive watch, and you plan to hang around this place, your tastes will no doubt continue to refine; what you see as small differences now will quickly become large differences. For example: case finishing, polished vs. brushed vs. satin etc. Lugs, straight or twisted. Dive bezel vs. dress bezel. Crown guard vs. no crown guard. If I have my guess, the Tag will be quite a bit taller than the Omega. The list goes on, and you'll learn to care about such differences over time.

The advice above is solid: you can buy a used AT2500 for about $1500, and it'll be in nice shape (the Railmaster will be nearly twice that). Why not give it a try, see how you like it before taking the $3000+ plunge? I had a 2500, sold it, bought a used 8500 at a good price, but found it too shiny, too spendy. Sold it, and picked up another 2500, which I'll keep. YMMV, especially if the teak dial is important to you. I prefer the old sunburst as it turns out.
 
#31 ·
I'm mostly a "Seiko" guy... but early this year I bought a Visodate... second time in my life that I spend more than 300 dollars in a watch (Tissot T-Race was the first).
Personally I consider a luxury when it's over 1000 dollars (remembering that I'm from Brazil and in my local currency 1.000 dollars it's too much money to expend in a watch).
Well... I decided to take the next step and go for a luxury watch... Why? Well, in 2018 I celebrate 15 years of a successful bone marrow transplant and I really deserve it...

My choice will be the Longines Legend Diver.

Gonna save some coins and pull the trigger later this year...

ps: I'm really happy with my Visodate... great watch, for a great price!
 
#56 ·
I'm mostly a "Seiko" guy... but early this year I bought a Visodate... second time in my life that I spend more than 300 dollars in a watch (Tissot T-Race was the first).
Personally I consider a luxury when it's over 1000 dollars (remembering that I'm from Brazil and in my local currency 1.000 dollars it's too much money to expend in a watch).
Well... I decided to take the next step and go for a luxury watch... Why? Well, in 2018 I celebrate 15 years of a successful bone marrow transplant and I really deserve it...

My choice will be the Longines Legend Diver.
View attachment 13069623
Gonna save some coins and pull the trigger later this year...

ps: I'm really happy with my Visodate... great watch, for a great price!
I love the Longines...but I just wish they still made the no date version. I think the first run was no date...but only the first run.

Oh...and $1,000 is too much to spend on a watch (objectively speaking)...but that ki d of logic rarely enters into it!

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#33 ·
I can't blame you for not being able to justify $4k. As much as I'd like to add an Oyster Perpetual I don't think I can justify the price either. Have a look at Monta. Quality seems to be well above their price point. I'm considering the Triumph as an everyday piece.

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