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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well there I was today at Walmart, buying some RIT dye for my upcoming Mudman G9000-3V (still waiting on arrival :roll:) And I happen to walk across the jewelry section (big mistake :-d) Long story short I ending up buying a DW-5600E (My first 5600 :-!) I knew I needed a beater watch for work because I'm tired of wearing my precious GW7900B-1 around so voila, I go into Walmart to make a $2 purchase for RIT dye and walk out with a G, I have a problem :) And the moment you've all been waiting for, the pictures:

It's actually quite a comfortable, low profile watch. I gotta say it's a great bang for your buck, if you're looking for a watch to just beat up this is your best bet :)

I will say the one thing I'm disappointed with is that the top right-hand rectangle of the watch seems ever so slightly crooked but oh well I won't end up seeing it anyway if I reverse the display which I probably will do tonight :-!

And the infamous "illumninator" The DW5600E has quite a nice one on it.

One last question, since I'm going to be opening this thing up tonight to reverse the display, I've noticed that the adjust button is much more sunken in than the rest of the buttons, probably due to overuse from people trying it out at Wally World, Anyone have any idea if theres a spring or something I can re-tighten to make that button pop out? Thanks! :)
 

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On this model, the adjust button is purposely "more sunken in" to prevent accidental pressing of it. You don't have to hold it down as long as the other models where the button is not sunken in. You say you're going to reverse the display...do you have the polarizing film already? Be careful when scraping off the old polarizing film, as you don't want to accidentlaly scratch the LCD. Good luck. I picked up a cheap one off eBay and immediately reversed the display, also. Then I hydro modded it!! Enjoy and wear it in good health!!!

DSC_0240.JPG
 

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Trying to fill that case as quickly as possible, eh?? Look out everybody, sounds like KBaby is about to reach WIS status!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe I purchased it for $46 :) I'm actually in the process of reversing the display as we speak, hope it turns out okay :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On this model, the adjust button is purposely "more sunken in" to prevent accidental pressing of it. You don't have to hold it down as long as the other models where the button is not sunken in. You say you're going to reverse the display...do you have the polarizing film already? Be careful when scraping off the old polarizing film, as you don't want to accidentlaly scratch the LCD. Good luck. I picked up a cheap one off eBay and immediately reversed the display, also. Then I hydro modded it!! Enjoy and wear it in good health!!!

View attachment 443613
Unfortunately the polarizing film I recieved was of a poorer quality and the reverse display looks extremely unclear so I just re-made a positive display, so may I ask where you purchased your film? :)
 

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I use the lenses form the 3D glasses they give you at the movie theater. It's a bit thicker than poalrizing film, which is better IMO, because there's no need to use an adhesive. Because it's a bit thicker, it fits in the case snugly when everything is all sealed up. And if you decide you don't like it you can just take it out and put in another piece turned 90 degrees to make a positive display...without having to worry about scraping off any glue. Your film might be ok, it could just be the angle that you put it on at. Turning the film just the slightest bit can make it too dark, or too light...depending in which way you turn it. I hope that makes sense. It's easier to show than to describe in text. So, anyway, I take the 3d glasses, pop out a lense, figure out which side needs to be up and exactly which way it needs to be turned. I cut it to the size of the inside of the case, rather than just the size of the LCD...more room for error and the additional film is covered by the paint and text on the glass. I check, and double check that it's just right and place the film in the case, then just put the module in on top of it. As of right now, I don't have any watches that I plan to reverse the display on, and I have an extra pair of of those glasses. If you'd like, I could mail the lense to you...
 

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If you don't mind me asking, how much did you buy it for at walmart? I might stop by to pick it up if it's the right price
I like that avatar. Mind making one for us fellow Shocked People? :-d
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Awesome! I actually happen to have 2 pair of those :) Are you referring to the "RealD 3D" glasses?

Edit: Wow I can already tell the 3D glasses lens is *worlds* better than what I was using, much higher contrast, but how did you secure it to the LCD? They way you explained it earlier is slightly confusing to me, what am I cutting it to the shape of and securing it on?
 

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Yes, I'm referring to the Real 3D glasses. The beauty of them is the thickness of the lense. There's no need to secure it to anything. Once you put everything in place and tighten down the back plate, the lense won't move. If you look at my picture closely, you can see where I messed up. I cut that piece to the exact size of the LCD with an Exacto knife. I cut too hard and it chipped the edge. That's the white mark at the top. I learned my lesson and decided the next time I did it to cut it to the size of the inside of the case. A little bigger than the LCD itself. If you chip the edge, like I did, it will be concelaed by the paint on the glass. Just cut a square that will fit inside the case and make sure it's teh exact angle you want it on top of your LCD for the look you want. Drop it in, place the module on top and tighten everything up. Easy as that...no adhesive required. I did my first neg. display on that 5600 posted above. Slight blemish from my cutting. Next time I tried it, I cut to the size and shape of the cas, not the LCD, came out perfect. Here's my 2nd attempt: (ignore the scratches on the crystal...it's a well worn 14 yr old G!)

DSC_0045.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds good :) So do you think cutting the film in a circle and then placing it inside the case would be fine? Or should it be fit to the actual glass itself? Thanks again.
 

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Probably more square than circle, but doesn't matter too much. Just give your self a little room for error in case you have a rough edge like I did on my 5600. Circle or square, just cut it a tad bigger than the LCD so that the excess is hidden behind the graphics on the glass. another beauty of 3D glasses...you have two lenses to work with if you mess up the first time. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Almost got it :) My only problem now is that I'm a perfectionist and anytime I see a little smudge on the glass/film I have to start over :-( I'm also having a tad bit of trouble getting the module to properly sit in the case, strange.
 

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Oh yeah...I forgot to mention...make sure you don't get any finger prints on the lense!!! I made that mistake, also. The module is going to fit in there a little more tight because the lense you are using is a littl thicker. Just make sure all you contacts for the buttons line up. You may need to push the contacts back a bit as you put the module in. they can cometimes get "hung up" on the buttons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well after many many hours (mostly due to my own perfectionism, aka taking out the module EVERY time I see a smudge, spec of dust etc.) It's done and I love it :) The results:


Now if I could get some black bull bars for this I'd really be a happy guy :-d
 

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Well after many many hours (mostly due to my own perfectionism, aka taking out the module EVERY time I see a smudge, spec of dust etc.) It's done and I love it :) The results:

Now if I could get some black bull bars for this I'd really be a happy guy :-d
Looks awesome! If I didn't already ruin one watch this week (took off the LCD only to have it crack when re-installing it) I think I'd also try this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks!
 

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Well after many many hours (mostly due to my own perfectionism, aka taking out the module EVERY time I see a smudge, spec of dust etc.) It's done and I love it :) The results:


Now if I could get some black bull bars for this I'd really be a happy guy :-d
WOOOW! That looks so cool! I was deciding between whether or not to get the GLX5600a-2 or the dw5600e to mod your mod just made my decision more difficult...any suggestions? Btw, on a scale of 1-10 how hard would modding the display be? I'll probably start a thread to ask for help if I do decide to mod the negative display (I'm still too amateur to simply follow the available tutorial her on WUS) when I get the 5600. I'm going to the movies with some friends later this weekend, maybe I can find a real 3D glasses...
 

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I don't understand how you guys are doing this... When I saw this thread, I tried it with the lens from a spare pair of Real D glasses I had. The display just turns completely black. How do you get the numbers to come up white? Is it is necessary to remove the original polarizing film?

EDIT: I just realized that it is necessary. In the process of trying this now with my Fisherman...

EDIT 2: I just realized that this should not be done with the Fisherman, because the tide graph looks really odd without the black lines that are not part of the LCD but rather a permanent feature of the display... I think I will try this method with the Gulfman instead....
 
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