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How important is accuracy to you?

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Since buying my Omega and getting +0.4spd after it bedded in, I feel any new watch without COSC/METAS is going to be underwhelming.
As much as I love my SARB, when I check the time it annoys me that it is minutes fast after 7 days.
Pre-Omega this never bothered me, but now....

One day I might buy a Diver to round out my collection and I'm pretty sure it will have to be COSC or I'll be most upset :)

Anyone else hung up on accuracy?

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Depends how much I am spending, if it’s expensive it better be accurate, cheap not so much so.

By accurate I mean that when it comes off the winder it’s not ever more than a minute out.

Wildly innacurate watches, namely out by more than a couple of minutes a day are not acceptable to me.
 

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I know exactly what you're saying. Got mine about 5 months ago and if I lay it flat at night it gains 1 sec total for the day, if I place it crown up it loses 1 sec total for the day. Seems to be impossible for it to vary more than that. I still wear my other pieces but I'm just not as impressed with them.
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Seiko auto's. Monster, Turtle, 5 Sports. Steeldive auto. G Shock. Edifice. Protrek. Casio.
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For an auto, as long as its within + or - 10 spd i'm ok with it as i only wear a watch a few days then rotate another. I'm more fussy about quartz timekeeping, which is why i only buy solar/atomic quartz watches now.
 

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I am wearing an 80 dollar China special right now(6105 "homage") and it is nearly dead on (less than .5s) after 3 days with an NH35 movement.
I absolutely love that I am getting away with this. So, don't lose hope. Spending thousands for accuracy is great, and the watches are beautiful... but it isn't the only way to do it.
 

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I am wearing an 80 dollar China special right now(6105 "homage") and it is nearly dead on (less than .5s) after 3 days with an NH35 movement.
I absolutely love that I am getting away with this. So, don't lose hope. Spending thousands for accuracy is great, and the watches are beautiful... but it isn't the only way to do it.
Don't get me wrong, I've got a few Seikos myself and I love the NH35 movement for what it is- a reliable workhorse. But it's about as far away from a METAS certified movement as you can get. They are notoriously inaccurate when their mainspring is not fully wound, or the temperature changes, or you change your wearing activity. Long term accuracy for the NH35 should be +/- 10 seconds a day if regulated well. Glad you are getting such good accuracy atm.
 

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I'm between "very" and "somewhat" where I have control over the matter, don't get the Seiko references at all, and can live with watches that are a lot further off, if they are old, don't hack but otherwise run consistently.
 

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Not all Seiko's are the same build quality. In house movement, case, lubricants, assembly and manufacture. 1/4 the price of a sub (current grey price) 1/3 price of an omega diver. Available today without wait times from grey market. Currently +4sec /day - every day - so within cosc and that's unregulated!
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I have become more sensitive to accuracy over the past 12 months, due mainly to adding a GS Spring Drive, GS 9F quartz, and Omega master chronometer to my collection.
Certainly if the watch is £1k+ then I would be turned off quite a bit if it is not likely to perform within COSC (whether certified or not), and as for some of these haute horology watches that are known for being inaccurate, then forget it as far as I am concerned.
 

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I realise the comment about Seiko is probably light-hearted, and I appreciate the lower level movements can vary a lot anecdotally (I’ve been lucky with all the ones I’ve had I guess), but I think it’s worth mentioning that it‘s not as simple as Omega-good, Seiko-bad. My Marinemaster keeps exceptional time (to Rolex standard) and the 8l35 movement is renowned for being accurate and stable.

I do like how consistent and reliable an accurate movement can be. Have you tried getting your SARB regulated?
 

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When purchasing a new watch I'm looking for +10/-5 averaged from all 6 dial/crown positions across wound state (100%-0%).
This requires a bit of work & equipment (timegrapher, winder) and return policy is important.
 

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For automatics, I don’t see the point. +/- 25secs is good enough, especially if it’s consistent. My Orient Kamasu is 20secs fast and never bothered regulating it.

On analogs, I realized I never “read” the time and mostly just glance where the hands are approximately are, so I don’t need the exact minute. But with digitals, accuracy matters and all my Casios are accurate.
 

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My opinion on accuracy is purely functional. If I don't notice it, I don't really care. This works for me because I rarely have a need to be more precise than 1 minute for general timekeeping.
 

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I am wearing an 80 dollar China special right now(6105 "homage") and it is nearly dead on (less than .5s) after 3 days with an NH35 movement.
I absolutely love that I am getting away with this. So, don't lose hope. Spending thousands for accuracy is great, and the watches are beautiful... but it isn't the only way to do it.

Kind of like my Steeldive. I've had it at 0, but usually its a -2 or +2. It did fluctuate a bit more to +6 in the first week of ownership, but now its quite accurate for a Seiko NH35. I did not expect that at all, especially seeing the specs seiko gives on the movement.

And to answer the question, i m not one who wants COSC specs or whatever. If it goes beyond 10 either way, yeah it might bug me, but i set it every morning so..meh
 

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Obviously if a watch is rated for cosc and its not keeping accurate time, then its time for a service.

Would like my watches to be within 5 seconds a day, otherwise the watch is off by a couple of minutes in a month, and its annoying to have to adjust the watch every couple of weeks.

Having inaccurate watches also defeats the purpose of leaving a watch on a winder that you dont wear often. Why bother keeping the watch wound if you have to adjust it when you pick it up a few weeks later?
 

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Ooo yes! Most of my mechanical watches in the collection are vintage, and only worn on special occations. To tell time there is quartz. HAQ, RC and GPS. I would never buy a new mechanical watch (from any brand) with accuracy as a criteria.
 

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I went for "B". Whilst I enjoy an accurate mechanical watch, I force myself to remember it is mechanical. I have a few watches that perform close to 0spd, but I would be a fool to compare all my watches with them. The strange thing is that the more expensive movements aren't always the most accurate. I regulate watches myself, but if they are +10/-5 spd, what's the point?
 

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I have a timegrapher that I throw a watch on when I get it or check it every year or two. I never really pay attention to it for day to day because I rarely wear a single watch more than a day or two. good luck
 

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I am wearing an 80 dollar China special right now(6105 "homage") and it is nearly dead on (less than .5s) after 3 days with an NH35 movement.
I absolutely love that I am getting away with this. So, don't lose hope. Spending thousands for accuracy is great, and the watches are beautiful... but it isn't the only way to do it.
All my autos are low to mid range. The cheapest movement I have in a watch is an NH35, and the dearest an ETA Elabore. Apart from the fact the ETA is 28800 against 21600 bph, accuracy isn't consistent amongst the movements. I have very accurate movements throughout my collection, and others that aren't as accurate, albeit I regulate anything that isn't +10/-5 spd. I have noticed the difference is more evident when the amplitude is low, and that's to say the better movements perform more accurately when not fully wound.
 
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