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This looks like a lot of fun. If you get to a complete working “C”,.. that would be really rewarding. The only thing that would bother me is if I couldn’t source a new resin set.
Fortunately the bands are still easily available (depending where you are)
Bezel is another matter, only a couple of people making and selling them and the quality can be hit and miss, but I'd take a lower quality over none for a while if it means I can wear my watches and my buttons and screws are protected
 

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I’ve been lurking for a little while admiring everyone’s Casios and decided to find a basketcase watch that some would think is even borderline as a parts watch.

It’s obviously had a hard life by the amount of scratches it has. Still has original bezel screws and is quite clean inside. Buttons are mashed and will need to be replaced.
I thought I’d attack the crystal first after seeing some threads on WUS.
I think it’s coming up a treat.

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Could you please tell me how you managed to remove the scratches of the glass surface? I have a G-Shock with the glass all scratched and think that it would turn into a nice watch without them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Could you please tell me how you managed to remove the scratches of the glass surface? I have a G-Shock with the glass all scratched and think that it would turn into a nice watch without them.
I used Cerium Oxide which I bought off eBay as a solution but many make their own solution from the powder. It’s a fine polishing paste but if you hand polish for hours it slowly gets you there. I didn’t use my dremel as I was afraid to generate too much heat and delaminate the graphics which has been known to happen. If scratches are deep you might need to start with 2000 grit sandpaper or courser
 

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I used Cerium Oxide which I bought off eBay as a solution but many make their own solution from the powder. It’s a fine polishing paste but if you hand polish for hours it slowly gets you there. I didn’t use my dremel as I was afraid to generate too much heat and delaminate the graphics which has been known to happen. If scratches are deep you might need to start with 2000 grit sandpaper or courser
Thank you very much! Unfortunately, my watch has deep scratch marks. So, a courser sandpaper will be inevitable, at least in the beginning.
 

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Thank you very much! Unfortunately, my watch has deep scratch marks. So, a courser sandpaper will be inevitable, at least in the beginning.
I've got an H101 "Marlin" that had some pretty deep scratches in the crystal. I sanded and polished it using silicone carbide sandpapers and diamond paste polishing compounds. 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 sandpapers. Then 5 micron, 2.5, 1, and finally 0.5 micron diamond pastes. I used the sandpapers by hand dry on top of a dead flat pane of glass dusting between grit levels. Used dremel type rotary tool for the polishing, different buff wheel for each paste and washed the watch between each polish.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I have applied, removed, and then re-applied double sided carbon tape to the inside of a few vintage stainless steel square cases. As long as no tools scrape the underside of the crystal graphics, removing the double sided carbon tape should not damage the crystal. It is the pointed edge of the alarm spring that scrapes the crystal graphics that creates the dreaded delamination bubbles. The double sided carbon tape I have is ever so slightly spongey. It is easily removed using a tool like a flat-edged tweezer. Also, the tape is not exceptionally sticky, so it does not take any of the graphics with it when removed.

@aussie105 great job restoring this piece so far! This is a wonderful thread to follow. Thank you for sharing.
thanks Tommy. It was one of your threads that inspired me to have a go. Good to hear your experience with the carbon tape. I will look at getting some
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Fortunately the bands are still easily available (depending where you are)
Bezel is another matter, only a couple of people making and selling them and the quality can be hit and miss, but I'd take a lower quality over none for a while if it means I can wear my watches and my buttons and screws are protected
agreed Beefy. This is what your buttons can look like if you play life hard without a bezel…
Of the three remaining buttons, none are pretty, which is why I must pursue a Parts watch.
Took the clips off in a clear ziplock bag with my new $2 slant tip tweezers off eBay.

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agreed Beefy. This is what your buttons can look like if you play life hard without a bezel…
Of the three remaining buttons, none are pretty, which is why I must pursue a Parts watch.
Took the clips off in a clear ziplock bag with my new $2 slant tip tweezers off eBay.

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I see what you mean about the buttons now!!

I've not seen them mullered like that before!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

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The previous owner probably pressed them frequently while on the wrist...with force :)
Mine was bent but not this bad. However, mine was used without a bezel for so long that the sharp edges of the case softened...compared to my mint 5600c it looks smaller! Good call on using cerium on its own without any sanding. It takes longer but the results are well worth it! Mine was done the same way.
 

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I've got an H101 "Marlin" that had some pretty deep scratches in the crystal. I sanded and polished it using silicone carbide sandpapers and diamond paste polishing compounds. 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 sandpapers. Then 5 micron, 2.5, 1, and finally 0.5 micron diamond pastes. I used the sandpapers by hand dry on top of a dead flat pane of glass dusting between grit levels. Used dremel type rotary tool for the polishing, different buff wheel for each paste and washed the watch between each polish.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Thank you for your instructions! Now, it´s time to gather some stuff...
 

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What is the best way to clean out the button holes? Pretty gunky.
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I've only ever used a dry toothbrush. The trouble is that with the buttons removed you run the risk of water ingress.

I'm not sure how the decals on the crystal will hold up if they get wet? You could always reinstall the buttons, then with gasket in, reseal the watch and leave it soaking for a while in warm soapy water and then use a toothbrush to clean the button holes.

I've actually never removed buttons on any of my 5xxxC's. Probably should have!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

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What is the best way to clean out the button holes? Pretty gunky.
View attachment 16104092
A toothbrush is just fine.
I also use small interdental brushes.
If you place the watch flat on a surface, or hold it in right position when cleaning, the crystal will remains dry inside when cleaning the button holes.
I also use silicone on the small o-rings.
When mounting, i put everything on the buttons-stem, and just place it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
A toothbrush is just fine.
I also use small interdental brushes.
If you place the watch flat on a surface, or hold it in right position when cleaning, the crystal will remains dry inside when cleaning the button holes.
I also use silicone on the small o-rings.
When mounting, i put everything on the buttons-stem, and just place it.
those interdental brushes look the go. I was envisaging something like a shrunk down trumpet mouthpiece brush and those fit the bill!

silicon grease on the o-rings?
 

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those interdental brushes look the go. I was envisaging something like a shrunk down trumpet mouthpiece brush and those fit the bill!

silicon grease on the o-rings?
I use to "massage" the small o-rings with silicone grease, and then wipe all the excess away.
I guess i also could use silicone-spray. ☺
 

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I've only ever used a dry toothbrush. The trouble is that with the buttons removed you run the risk of water ingress.

I'm not sure how the decals on the crystal will hold up if they get wet? You could always reinstall the buttons, then with gasket in, reseal the watch and leave it soaking for a while in warm soapy water and then use a toothbrush to clean the button holes.

I've actually never removed buttons on any of my 5xxxC's. Probably should have!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
The crystal holds up pretty well. My gold 5600c had a lot of 'water time' while I was polishing the crystal and the decals are still the way they were when I got the watch. Of course, the 5600c is newer than a 5000c so maybe extra care with the 5000c won't hurt.
 
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