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Discussion Starter #81
It may be time that the OP recreates their list of desired chrono characteristics along with each characteristic's importance. This might help both the OP as well as those giving input.
Yes, indeed, a lot of fantastic suggestions in this thread, now I need to sort things out. I will go on a new tryout expedition and will update when the time comes based on the results. I should be able to see 99% of the pieces between now and the end of March, even some of the rarer models.
 

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I have been looking at the 38mm Laureato chronographs lately and people seem to be very impressed by the quality of the piece in the flesh. Anyone has experience with it? I personally like the 38mm RO better in terms of luxurious looks, but the Laureato is definitely more versatile and unique, and I have never handled either in person. Plus the RO is close to $30k now, so there’s that.

How would it compare to the Polo S chronograph?
I can help here as I recently purchased the Laureato chronograph and have had it for just over a month now. In all honesty, when I was looking to make my purchase I never even considered the Laureato until I saw it in the flesh. I've had my eye on an AP Royal Oak Chrono and was on the verge of purchasing an Omega Seamaster Diver (black w/sedna gold). So, in essence it was an impulse purchase that so far I haven't regretted at all. I chose the 42mm as my wrists are 7.25" and the 38mm was too small for my taste. This watch definitely has a high end finish when you wear it and it gets mad looks all the time when I'm out and about. Much moreso than my GMT Master. The bracelet is super comfortable as it's 904L steel which has an extremely "soft" feel on the wrist. Screw down pushers and an easy "click" add to ease of use on the chrono.

I love the way this watch plays with light. The Clous de Paris dial is comprised of many tiny pyramids that make for a rich texture and look really cool under a loupe. Different than the grand tapisserie on the Royal Oak. The hour hands and indices on my watch are blue and really make the dial pop but then also look less shiny if you change the angle of view. Same with the GP logo. The watch retails for $15k but can be had for less if you ask. I bought mine new for 20% off and it feels like I got a lot of watch.

GP is highly underrrated and is one of the only watchmakers that have been in continuous production since 1791. This makes them one of the oldest watchmakers around next to Vacheron. They have a strong history of innovation and the movement on the chrono is in-house. This will definitely be in my collection for a long time. 20200202_135200.jpg 20200202_135205.jpg 20200202_135241.jpg 20200202_135247.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I can help here as I recently purchased the Laureato chronograph and have had it for just over a month now. In all honesty, when I was looking to make my purchase I never even considered the Laureato until I saw it in the flesh. I've had my eye on an AP Royal Oak Chrono and was on the verge of purchasing an Omega Seamaster Diver (black w/sedna gold). So, in essence it was an impulse purchase that so far I haven't regretted at all. I chose the 42mm as my wrists are 7.25" and the 38mm was too small for my taste. This watch definitely has a high end finish when you wear it and it gets mad looks all the time when I'm out and about. Much moreso than my GMT Master. The bracelet is super comfortable as it's 904L steel which has an extremely "soft" feel on the wrist. Screw down pushers and an easy "click" add to ease of use on the chrono.

I love the way this watch plays with light. The Clous de Paris dial is comprised of many tiny pyramids that make for a rich texture and look really cool under a loupe. Different than the grand tapisserie on the Royal Oak. The hour hands and indices on my watch are blue and really make the dial pop but then also look less shiny if you change the angle of view. Same with the GP logo. The watch retails for $15k but can be had for less if you ask. I bought mine new for 20% off and it feels like I got a lot of watch.

GP is highly underrrated and is one of the only watchmakers that have been in continuous production since 1791. This makes them one of the oldest watchmakers around next to Vacheron. They have a strong history of innovation and the movement on the chrono is in-house. This will definitely be in my collection for a long time.
Thank you for sharing your experience and thoughts on a piece that is often overlooked. I really like the design of the case and dial, and you cleared out one of my concern about legibility of the blue hands and indices.
I also love the fact that it's pretty thin, even though the movement is modular. I definitely need to try it on, I have never even seen a Laureato in the flesh before!
 

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I know you said no date, but you could go the other direction. If you don't need the 12 hr dial, the Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar is an amazing value on the preowned marked imo. The El Primero Movement with an Annual Calendar and a variety of face options, I have the Museum Edition and find it amazingly versatile as a daily wear. It's 42mm but doesn't wear huge.

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Discussion Starter #87
Well, things didn't turn out as expected. As Covid19 rages across the world, all of my travel plans to France and Asia have been cancelled, and with it my chances to try on the many pieces mentioned in this thread.

However, I have come to the conclusion that what would be a real plus for this watch would be a ceramic case and enough WR to swim. For a daily wear, it would make my life that much easier to not have to worry about scratches, and the lightness it provides is an added benefit. So, while the design of the Breguet 3817 started growing on me, I am turning back to the Fifty fathoms bathyscaphe chronograph (which has absolutely everything I need and want technically speaking) and the Hublot BB Unico 42mm ceramic.

And then I realized that that IWC makes a sick ceramic miramar chronograph flyback in 44mm too, that looks very understated but packs their inhouse movement with 68 hours PR and a great looking polished ceramic case.

Do you have any idea of other Ceramic chronographs with some water resistance? It seems to be difficult to find something outside of BP, IWC, Hublot and Omega, and AP makes nice ceramic watches but the price is much higher and the movement is not quite up to the levels of the former in terms of technology.

Thanks for helping!

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Hi everyone,

I have been looking at many watches for my next purchase, and I realize that most of the pieces I am considering are chronographs. Not that I specifically need one, but I like the style and versatility, plus I am sort of a nerd when it comes to either Heritage or mechanical achievements and I find the chronograph complication to be very special in horology.


Anyway, I am looking at pieces anywhere between 5k to 15k grey market/new/used.

Those are the main contenders, I am curious to hear what you think and why, and if you have additional suggestion.
The most important criteria though are: size (ideally under 42), look of course, and technology (I prefer flyback if possible and vertical clutch). I also like it if there is no date.

Arnold and Son CTB: no fly back but vertical clutch, beautiful grained dial and dead beat seconds. And No date (big plus). Maybe big given the dressy look.

Omega grey side of the moon meteorite: very cool, vertical clutch chrono, does not look too big (I tried it on), but very thick and maybe not super versatile. It is a flashy piece.

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph racer: super cool looking and modern piece. Flyback and 68 hours PR. But no vertical clutch. I am also worried about the size and the heft, it looks heavy.

IWC Chronograph Saint exupery limiterd: super cool pilot Watch with flyback, same movement as the Ingenieur above, and OK in size. I actually tried it and the size is about right where I would say it’s the maximum I should do for this piece.

Breguet 3810: super neat, iconic chronograph, but the movement is fairly oldschool and lacks the bells and whistles of newer pieces.

Any other suggestions? I am not sure about the 38mm Laureato chrono because of the color schemes, and the GO chrono looks super chunky, the polo S chrono looks cool though, I might need to try it.

Let me know what you think!

All the best,
A.
IDK a thing about any of the watches you mentioned, but I can read. And based on my reading of what you wrote, it seems to me none of the watches you've asked about meet your stated requirements criteria.

Were I to want a watch, no watch that doesn't meet my objective criteria would be among those on my "short list." Accordingly, I don't think you should buy any of the ones you noted.

If I were you, I'd pick several watches that meet all my objective criteria and ask for input about those specific watches.

Maybe no watch meets your criteria? I'm told Hublot, Tag, Zenith and Gallet are are "all over" chronographs; it's their calling-card, so to speak. I'd look at their offerings.
 

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Well, things didn't turn out as expected. As Covid19 rages across the world, all of my travel plans to France and Asia have been cancelled, and with it my chances to try on the many pieces mentioned in this thread.

However, I have come to the conclusion that what would be a real plus for this watch would be a ceramic case and enough WR to swim. For a daily wear, it would make my life that much easier to not have to worry about scratches, and the lightness it provides is an added benefit. So, while the design of the Breguet 3817 started growing on me, I am turning back to the Fifty fathoms bathyscaphe chronograph (which has absolutely everything I need and want technically speaking) and the Hublot BB Unico 42mm ceramic.

And then I realized that that IWC makes a sick ceramic miramar chronograph flyback in 44mm too, that looks very understated but packs their inhouse movement with 68 hours PR and a great looking polished ceramic case.

Do you have any idea of other Ceramic chronographs with some water resistance? It seems to be difficult to find something outside of BP, IWC, Hublot and Omega, and AP makes nice ceramic watches but the price is much higher and the movement is not quite up to the levels of the former in terms of technology.

Thanks for helping!

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View attachment 14945245
Oh, FFS! Ignore my earlier post. In formulating those comments, I assumed you were settled in terms of knowing what you wanted, what your requirements were. From the above, I see my assumption was errant.
 

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For not a lot of money, why not look at Habring2? They are an amazing little (200 watches a year) Indy brand with top top pedigree. Not a lot out there on the used market, but for under $10k you can buy new just about any chronograph they offer (not counting their new Perpetual with chronograph)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I have looked at Habring but sadly their designs do nothing to me. The movement is clever though.

By now, given the amount of time I spent thinking about it since the beginning of the year and during this quarantine period, I believe I know what I like. I need something sporty, that can be worn daily in a casual setting and in explorations (mountaineering, jungle and desert, since I already have my dive watch for water explorations).
My choice is now between the Breguet 3817ST, and the IWC 387806. I do like the IWC 389002 for the ceramic case but the bigger size (44mm) and the non applied numerals make it look bigger and not as refined as the St Exupéry.


Pros for the Breguet:
Smaller size (42mm)
Bezel
Brand heritage and visible movement
Higher Water resistance rating

Pros for the IWC:
Looks less bulky on the wrist (case profile + thickness ratio given that there is no rotating bezel)
Better movement on all accounts (column wheel, vertical clutch, 68 hours PR)
Dial layout with 2 registers
Better looking watch overall with applied indices
Amagnetic soft iron inner case

Both have options with bracelets and straps, and I do like the understated look of these pieces that will go under the radar for anyone who doesn't know that these are north of $10k MSRP.

With a few more weeks/months of quarantine to mature this decision, I think I will be ready to move forward since those have been consistent choices since the beginning of my search.

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