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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Let's see if we can find more options for relatively affordable (2000-7000€) bicompax (preferably panda) chronographs, with a date window at 6 o'clock.

Here are my picks:

Breitling Premier B01
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Stainless steel - Silver AB0118221G1P1 |  Breitling US

This was my grail watch for a long time, until a Federico Talks Watches episode mentioned some issues with vertical clutches being an unserviceable wear item. Really like the design though.

(Tag) Heuer Carrera Calibre 17
Men's TAG Heuer CV211A.FC6335 Watch | Francis & Gaye Jewellers

If I was to go for a reverse panda coloring, I would prefer the base color to be deep blue. This is close to perfect, but I think the pricing is a bit dear for a modular chronograph.

Longines Master Collection Bucherer blue edition

Master Collection 40mm - Bucherer CH

Another modular option. Not in love with the numerals, but decent value for money.

Christopher Ward C65 chronograph
C65 Chronograph | Christopher Ward


CW providing astonishing value as per usual. Valjoux 7750 based Sellita movement. Wasn't initially quite sure about the design, but starting to like it. I think a bezel is fine on a chrono, as long as it's narrow/thin enough.

Voutilainen x Leijona Urho Chrono
Voutilainen X Leijona Urho Chrono – Voutilainen X Leijona: the Leijona  Heritage 1907 Collection

A bit too hyper-retro for my taste, but certainly something interesting. Same Sellita-Valjoux movement as CW, but this time adjusted by the Kari Voutilainen workshop...
 

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Hamilton Intra Matic
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Regarding vertical clutches, if a fake Italian like Federico says tgey are unserviceable it must be true.:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
Vertical clutches are technically superior in many ways, but the downside is that they are much more delicate and harder to service in general. People also tend to appreciate them more because they are often accompanied by a column wheel. There are countless discussions and sources about this online, the episode that I linked was only where I heard about this for the first time.

I think the ideal combination would be a column wheel with a horizontal clutch, but this combination is quite hard to come by, especially at the affordable end. There is a modified Valjoux movement caliber with a column wheel that has been used in some Omega and Longines models. All of them have a tricompax design, however.
 

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Hamilton Intra Matic
I absolutely love this watch. This is going to be my next pick up for sure.
 

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Vertical clutches are technically superior in many ways, but the downside is that they are much more delicate and harder to service in general. People also tend to appreciate them more because they are often accompanied by a column wheel. There are countless discussions and sources about this online, the episode that I linked was only where I heard about this for the first time.

I think the ideal combination would be a column wheel with a horizontal clutch, but this combination is quite hard to come by, especially at the affordable end. There is a modified Valjoux movement caliber with a column wheel that has been used in some Omega and Longines models. All of them have a tricompax design, however.
Vertical clutches are hard to service for lazy watchmakers. Regarding horizontal clutches mated to column wheel, that was the standard architecture of any chronograph before the introduction of the Venus 188 that late became the Valjoux 7730, for instance the Seagull ST19 (improved Venus 175) has an horizontal clutch and column wheel. So the Longines CH30, considered the most beautiful chrono movement of all the time. So the Zenith Primero. So the Poljot 3019 (ex Venus 150) of Soviet times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Vertical clutches are hard to service for lazy watchmakers.
My understanding is that there are several calibers where the vertical clutch cannot be serviced; mere washing would mess up the factory oiling etc. so the only option is to replace the part. Apparently most vertical clutches are also under constant stress when the chronometer is not engaged, so therefore the issue with wearing down over time.

that was the standard architecture of any chronograph before the introduction of the Venus 188 that late became the Valjoux 7730
Indeed, not so much anymore.
 

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My understanding is that there are several calibers where the vertical clutch cannot be serviced; mere washing would mess up the factory oiling etc. so the only option is to replace the part.
Well the vertical clutch is a component, it either works or doesn't. For recent movements not an issue, spare parts are available...for Japanese chronos of the 70s that's the issue as they are not available.

For horizontal clutch, the market is plenty of watches with the ST19 inside, for instance:

 
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