Maybe it's a mechanical issue and the crown is not properly re-engaging when you push it back in.

 

Thanks for suggestion. I checked and crown seems to be engaging fully and setting the date/time as it should.

 

So, find the movement number and look up if it needs a little plastic piece under the battery. I think that was the problem with another user on here with the same kind of watch. If so then a small plastic piece is missing under the battery which is required and can be substituted with something you might have that can be cut to size.

Edit: The piece is called a battery isolator.

 

Thanks, just checked and it's a Ronda 715. Did some Googling and the battery insulator's definitely in place. Apparently if it wasn't then the battery would short and it'd go flat of course, yet the original battery's still measuring at 1.5V.

It's very odd that the movement seems dead!

 

I believe these go for $50 brand new on Amazon. Replacing might be a better use of time than repairing what is essentially a disposable watch.

 

This is a vintage (if late 80s/early 90s counts as vintage) Braun AW20. Cheap movement but well-made and pretty significant design-wise, probably more so than the Junghans Max Bill. They were designed by Dietrich Lubs who worked directly under Dieter Rams at the time.

Vintage Braun watches are made in Germany very different from modern watches made under Zeon Ltd, except for the 2017 AW10 and AW50 reissues.

 

Braun - same company that makes like electric shavers and stuff?

 

Sure is. They did and still do make some solid, higher end quartz. Their Aw50 is considered a watch design milestone.

 

More then likely the battery leaked and the acid wicked between the battery post and the PCB you can disassemble the movement and pull the PCB and the battery contact and try and clean then.

 

Interestingly there's no signs of the original battery leaking because it looks in good condition and still reads 1.5V. I'm pretty certain it was the original battery given the watch seems to have been untouched.

 

Check carefully that the contact path between the battery and the rest of the movement it totally clean.

 

It could be the coil. I once repaired a Ronda 785 in a friend's Skagen which had a dead coil for no good reason - it didn't appear to be damaged but was measuring open circuit. And yes replacing the entire movement was an option, but by changing just the coil it meant the movement didn't need to come out of the case and I didn't need to deal with getting the hands off and back on (not to mention it was a good learning experience!)

You could try measuring the resistance across the points shown below (after removing the battery) to see if the coil is okay, and not short- or open-circuited.

If the coil proves to be faulty then you could either just replace that or replace the whole movement, whichever is cheapest/easiest/more satisfying.

I love the design of Braun watches - good luck getting yours going again!

 

I love the Dieter Rams designs from Braun. I still have one of the square digital pieces that is fun to pull out now and then.

 

I have found in the past that when I replace a battery on a watch and it does not seem to work, I pull the stem completely out of the movement and upon insertion, 9 times out of 10 the watches starts to work properly.

 

It's a nice watch but considering it's age and Ronda inside it's rather expected for it to be dead. It's very common occurrence with these. And these which been dormant have much higher failure rate compared to these which ticked all these years. If you really like it ask any watchmaker to drop new movement and it should be relatively cheap.

 

I see Braun watches quite often here in Japan. Maybe I’ll get one and use it to time how long it takes me to shave with the Braun electric shaver my brother in-law gave me for my birthday a few years ago.

 

I've come across a quartz watch or two where after replacing the battery you're required to short the battery (+) to somewhere on the case before it will start working again. I don't understand the logic behind it, but have seen it. I wonder if the little hole on the movement with the arrow pointing to it might be for that purpose. Its not mentioned anywhere in the Ronda 715 documentation, but at this point in the game it might be worth a try, it sounds like you have nothing to lose at this point. And, as others have mentioned, a new 715 movement isn't that expensive to replace if you really like the watch and the movement is dead.

 

The hole with the arrow pointing to it is the stem release.