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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys:
some help will be highly appreciated.
I failed to calibrate my Aerospace cal 79 accuracy ( original deviation -0.9sec/month ).
I had about three calibration interactions ( few months apart ) following E20.341 regulating procedure, but no change in the deviation rate.
I tried short touches between battery and C+ as well as longer touches of 1 sec a touch.
I would like to bring the deviation toward the +
Is there also a test mode in Breitling watches such as as in Omega X-33 caliber 1666 ? ( see bellow )
any clues.

abe.

calibration procedure for calibre 1666 (x-33)
Sample calculation :
Current correction value 089
Measured rate error +0.1s/day
Calculation to be
made
0.1 x 1000
10.986 = 9
There must be 9 connections between C+ and the battery’s +
pole
New correction value to be stored in the movement 089+9 = 098
Sample calculation :
Current correction value 175
Measured rate error -0.2s/day
Calculation to be
made -0.2 x 1000
10.986
= 18
There must be 18 connections between C- and the battery’s +
pole
New correction value to be stored in the movement
175 -18 = 157
OMEGA SA WORLD SERVICE ORGANIZATION GT-19-C-069-E - A - 1666
Operating procedure
1. Measure the rate with an integration time of
960 seconds (sixteen minutes).
The rate is measured with the stem pulled out to
position 2.
Test mode « magnetic » (rate measure of step motor).
2. Perform steps 1 to 5 of chapter 1.1 (operation to
enter into CS test mode).
3. Press the crown once, the LCD displays «TEST 1».
4. Release the crown, the LCD displays C and the
current correction value.
5. Perform corrections C+ or C- according to the
formula below (see the two examples).
6. Press P1, P2, P3 or P4 to adjust the new value.
7. The LCD displays the new correction value.
8. If the value displayed does not conform, perform
corrections on C+ or C- then press P1, P2, P3 or P4 to
adjust and display the new value.
9. Press the crown twelve times, the LCD displays «F».
10. Wait for four seconds; the watch returns to time mode.
Form

calibration procedure for E20.341 ( aerospace Cal79)
Checking the rate
Checking without an instrument
Check the rate as follows:
a) Set the watch to the exact
time (atomic clock)
b) Stock the watch during
exactly one month (30 days)
c) Check the watch
d) Determine the rate "M" in
s/month
If M>0.8 s/month: correct the
rate
If M<0.8 s/month: no need to
correct the rate.
Based on the rate in seconds per
month, M [s/m], the number of
correction impulses “N” has to be
calculated.
N = M [s/m]
________
0.33 [s/m]

"N" is rounded to the next higher
or lower full number.
Checking by means of an instrument
The rate must be checked at a
temperature between 20°C and
25°C and with an instrument guaranteeing
a measuring accuracy of
0.003 s/day.
The inhibition period is
16 minutes.
The rate must be checked with an
instrument that allows measuring
over one or several periods of
16 minutes.
Based on the rate in seconds per
day, M [s/d], the number of correction
impulses “N” has to be
calculated.
N = M [s/d]
________
0.011 [s/d]
"N" is rounded to the next higher
or lower full number.
Correcting the rate
The watch is equipped with a manual
regulation system
a) Set the watch to the neutral
mode and pull the crown.
b) Correct the rate by sending a
series of N impulses to the
C+ range in order to achieve
a gain and C- range in order
to achieve a loss. The impulse
is sent by means of a wire
con-nected to the + pole
(battery set).
One impulse = ± 0.011 sec./
day or ±0.33 sec/month.
c) After correcting the rate,
push the crown back to
neutral po-sition.
The programmation is not lost
when changing the battery
(EEPROM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You did follow all these steps?


The crown's position is very important.
Hans hi:
crown positions for me means: roll the crown up to neutral LCD display then pull the crown out and return it inn after finishing the calibration.
Did I miss something ?
 

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Sounds like you're following all the steps.
Try to remove and re-insert the battery before you start the calibration process.
Equivalent with a fresh reboot I guess.
 

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What are you using to connect the C+ and the battery? I've had success with ETAs (haven't tried regulating my Aerospace yet) with an electrical wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
What are you using to connect the C+ and the battery? I've had success with ETAs (haven't tried regulating my Aerospace yet) with an electrical wire.
I use an standard connection cable such as the one in the pic.
cal cable.jpg

Today I re-did a calibration following all the steps. this time with 7 touches between C+ and the battery.
This will be my fourth calibration session. Lets see what happens or doesn't happen:think:
I wonder if there is a procedure to see whats the new correction value recorded in the watch Brain.
I didn't took the battery out this time because i need a special screwdriver which I haven't to open the fixation frame of the battery.
 

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...
Today I re-did a calibration following all the steps. this time with 7 touches between C+ and the battery.
This will be my fourth calibration session. Lets see what happens or doesn't happen:think:
I wonder if there is a procedure to see whats the new correction value recorded in the watch Brain.
...
I believe there is no documented way to read the correction - but if you remember I have suggested to try the same (very non-destructive and 0-risk) method as in Omega X33.

Some other possibilities might be that the battery level is too low to write to the flash or that the maximum correction was reached (in this direction, it should work in the other direction) or that there is a problem with the C+ pad in the watch.
 

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What was that suggestion ? A trick to enter into the "CS test mode" ?
Yes, since on the Omega 1666 the CS (Customer Services) test mode is entered by inserting the battery while holding the crown pressed in I believe it might be worth giving that a try "just in case"!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, since on the Omega 1666 the CS (Customer Services) test mode is entered by inserting the battery while holding the crown pressed in I believe it might be worth giving that a try "just in case"!
The battery was recently replaced, so I guess this is not the case.
No visible damage to The C+ pad ( check with magnifier )
Once I get this special thinner screwdriver to release the battery I will try the X-33 trick.
meanwhile am checking accuracy. keep you posted.
thanks for the tips to all the accuracy monks.

P.S. The interesting thing following the 1666 movement (X-33) calibration procedure is that a deviation in the (-) range requires a C-
pulses against the battery + and viceversa for (+) deviation.
 

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P.S. The interesting thing following the 1666 movement (X-33) calibration procedure is that a deviation in the (-) range requires a C-
pulses against the battery + and viceversa for (+) deviation.
I am puzzled about that remark.
Don't you do the same for your E20.341?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am puzzled about that remark.
Don't you do the same for your E20.341?
Thats exactly what puzzles me Hans.
In procedure 1666 when you have a (-) negative deviation value you involve the C- for correction
when its positive deviation value (+) you involve C+ for correction. exactly opposite to E20.341 procedure. ( both ETA movements )
thats visible comparing both calibration documents.
 

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Thats exactly what puzzles me Hans.
In procedure 1666 when you have a (-) negative deviation value you involve the C- for correction
when its positive deviation value (+) you involve C+ for correction. exactly opposite to E20.341 procedure. ( both ETA movements )
thats visible comparing both calibration documents.
I see. Some akward wording there.
Ultimately though: C+ speeds the watch up. C- slows it down.

Don't give up. It took me dozens of attemps before I got it right.
I made all the mistakes in the book though.
 

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I checked ETA documents for the E20.341 calibration - it looks like the calibration terminals are small and deep in the movement body, are they? Recently I calibrated ETA 251.232 and needed to make very thin isolated tip (max. 1.1mm diameter incl. insulation) on the wire to reach the C terminals. As I've mentioned elsewhere, first I touched the tip to the correct C terminal steadily (the tip fit hardly into the hole, so deep the terminal is), then tapped on the + battery with the other end. It looks like I was successful, but time will tel, how well :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I checked ETA documents for the E20.341 calibration - it looks like the calibration terminals are small and deep in the movement body, are they? Recently I calibrated ETA 251.232 and needed to make very thin isolated tip (max. 1.1mm diameter incl. insulation) on the wire to reach the C terminals. As I've mentioned elsewhere, first I touched the tip to the correct C terminal steadily (the tip fit hardly into the hole, so deep the terminal is), then tapped on the + battery with the other end. It looks like I was successful, but time will tel, how well :).
well, i performed the same procedure and took care to be steady on the C+ witha correct tool.
after the last calibration in which a took a extreme corrective attitude of C+12 pulses, let me tell you that I start to see a trend
but let me keep it tight to my chest till next month to have a final hahaaaa !
will keep you posted.
 

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Have you had any success? I have been trying the same procedure with nothing to show for it after four attempts. I am a bit dubious about the use of the E20.341 documentation for several reasons:

1. My B79 is marked "E10.541" with no mention of E20.341.
2. The ETA documentation for E20.341 shows a very different movement from the B79. There is nothing online for E10.541.
3. I can't get the E20.541 procedure to do anything:
- Set the two digital displays off (the 'neutral' position)
- Pull out the crown (the upper display shows "R")
- Apply + pulses to the "C+" terminal (I assume the "C" terminal implies "C-")
- Push the crown back in to the normal position

I tried asking for help on another, more specialised, forum. All I received was a smart-arse, patronising put-down from a Mod, who thought I had no right to know anything about the internals of MY watch.
 

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Hi,
I had the same problem to regulate my Breitling B1. After several successless trials following the instructions I've taken a copper wire as thick as possible and as short as possible to put deep in the outer hole and gave three short pulses to the + pole of the battery. The result was (as wanted) slowing down the watch for 12 seconds per year, deviation now +- 0 seconds per year. The important thing seems to me to take a short and thick wire resulting in a very low electrical resistence.
HuKu
 

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Congratulations on a result! Unfortunately the B79 movement is quite different. I have plenty of experience in regulating other ETA TC movements that have a similar layout - flat pads on the surface of the PCB - but I think the problem is in how to set up the watch before and/or after applying the pulses. It seems that nobody knows how, or at least they're not telling.
 

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Congratulations on a result! Unfortunately the B79 movement is quite different. I have plenty of experience in regulating other ETA TC movements that have a similar layout - flat pads on the surface of the PCB - but I think the problem is in how to set up the watch before and/or after applying the pulses. It seems that nobody knows how, or at least they're not telling.
eta.ch / service portal / technical documents
 
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