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Hi Citizen fans!
After two long years, I've finally completed the second restoration of my cherished 67-9119. A small history about this 9119; it's the first serious watch I bought for myself to restore in 2012. This is the one that started it all!
Here's the original thread from 2013 documenting the first restoration-

https://www.watchuseek.com/f21/my-citizen-8110-67-9119-restoration-905648.html

I wasn't happy because the hour register was damaged and the paint was hideous, the main hands had missing paint and the dial was slightly worn. We had a blisteringly hot Easter in 2016 and I ended up getting condensation inside the crystal. Just the excuse I needed! I came home and disassembled it fully. So began the long and uphill task of restoring it back to NOS condition.

I bought a set of day/date wheels for the 8110 from a seller in Turkey because one was the coveted white-on-black set. Little did I know that the Bullhead and regular movements have differently oriented wheels! I ended up reinstalling the black-on-silver Kanji wheel I had originally (after a lot of hair-raising moments and cursing)
I managed to get a NOS recorder hand for the 8110 (sadly it was for the 9313 "Speedmaster") from a Spanish seller and Brian's parts from 2012 gave me a lovely crystal. I initially wanted to replace the dial as that scratch was bugging me, but 9119 dials and parts watches always eluded me so I ended up keeping the original. I'll replace it someday! The bezel was stripped and coated in a thin coat of Epoxy primer (from touching up my 32 year old JDM Corolla wagon!:-d) and automotive matte black paint. The case was refinished using various grits of sandpaper and the pushers were cleaned and new gaskets installed. An appropriate caseback gasket was also sourced and set aside.
IMG_20151118_081809m.jpg
Day-date wheels with a parts dial-
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Bezel-
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Recorder hand-
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The hour and minute hands were painted and repainted five times! I had two sets and I used Tamiya acrylic white on one and Humbrol Matte White enamel on the other. For those of you who are wondering; I didn't paint the black section in the hands. The original finish is an anodised one which looks slightly metallic. Mine weren't that shabby so I masked it off and painted just the white part. I noticed that the enamel was an ivory colour and didn't match the bright white of the NOS recorder hand, so I used the acrylic set. The sweephand and the minute recorder was painted with the same paint. One thing I didn't do was to pick out the paint in the hand tube of the minute recorder hand like I did with the sweephand. It's a test of patience and I really wasn't in the mood to repaint the whole hand in case I damaged the finish! In comparison, the sweephand took close to an hour to finish. All painted hands were gently polished using a plastic model polish to even the paint (a tip we aircraft modelers use!)
Hands before-
IMG_20160814_161135m.jpg

Hands after; acrylic-
IMG_20180419_130953.jpg

Enamel-
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(ignore the crappy photography, they're ivory coloured)

The next test of skill came when installing the hands. I have to thank our resident 8110 maestro Brian (31Jewels) for his expertise and guidance in this endeavor. He sent me a detailed procedure on indexing the hands and points to look out for. Thank you Brian!
Hands on-
IMG_20180420_172220m.jpg
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I ordered a crystal press somewhere in May to finish off my 9119 but as bad luck would have it, we had a three week long postal strike! Thankfully the press was delivered last Thursday (yeah, you read that right!) and after pressing on a parts bezel and case together, I proceeded to press the good bezel onto the case. Try as I might, I couldn't do it :roll: Turns out the primer and paint coats had made the diameter marginally larger than the original. After sanding it a few times I managed to get it pressed in but the paint chipped in several places. So off it came and another bezel that I had tested the paint out on was pressed in. The beautiful crystal went in without a fuss and everything was alright-so I thought.

My habit of checking for dust with a 12x loupe has always brought me more trouble than it's worth, and this time wasn't an exception. After cleaning the whole dial with rodico I turned the movement over on my holder to get the stem out. BAM! The sweephand was bent out of shape in a total freak accident! Even worse, the spare bezel-less case I thought I'll use to index hands wasn't resetting the movement properly. Oh well! Off with the crystal and in with the sweephand. The second installation of the crystal chipped the paint on the new bezel. SIGH!:-d I ended up touching up the paint and the chip isn't as noticeable now.

Anyway, if you're still reading this, here she is in all her restored glory. I am extremely happy with how it turned out and I'm glad I can wear it again after two years. I'm restoring the original bracelet as well but I'll be wearing it mostly on a black/white leather strap as my formal dress watch. Now, what should I do with the leftover parts? I see a Bullhead in my future!

How she looked in 2012-
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First restoration, 2013-
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2018!
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Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed my ramblings! A special thank you goes out to our two Citizen masters; Stephen (Morris Minor) and Brian (31Jewels).
Till next time,
Jay.
 

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Hey J.

Man....has it been that long since you bought that? Wow..... Looks awesome. :)

Restoring a watch, and having the patience and skills to do fine dial touch up and hand restorations takes a lot of practice. Even for me....I'll strip hands and redue them many times till I get them perfect. Its a tough balance matching patina, and ageing to each watch as they are so different... even though they are the same.

I know how you feel about the hand tube. I would have went for it and removed the paint. What I find works is a hand tube broach. I use them to paint hands. See pic I attached. Once you paint the hand, lift the hand up with a tweezers allows the paint to leave the hole right after its painted.

I think the worst for me is when you re lume a hand that you got perfect...and the lume gets screwed up in some little way.....say an air bubble or a tiny lume crumb that didnt get crushed all the way. Wahhhh. :( Start all over again because the paint has to set for 24 hours before a re lume can be done.

Also.....practice thinning the paint with paint thinner. Believe it or not.....Auto brake cleaner that has touline in it. Yes, you get a brain buzz or almost pass out holding your breath but...It buys you more time and it doesn't get globby. 004.JPG The broach also allows the paint to be removed from the tube even of it dries.

The bezel. Before you spray it....set an old watch crystal in the bezel. It will allow you to not get paint on the gasket surface and lose some of the spec needed to press the crystal back in.

Great job with what you've done:) and dont worry. Even the pros have to do these kinds of things over and over again. Out of say 10 hand restorations ...I have to re due them at least twice to get them perfect. But... when you get them perfect, you would be hard pressed to tell they arent factory finish. :)

Regards,
Brian
"31"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Brian! I don't have broaches yet but I've added it to my next shopping list since they're really handy (no pun intended!). I had to redo the lume on these as well since I wasn't happy with the paint. Believe it or not, I dipped the bezel into a thinned cup of paint to get an even finish! :) Probably explains why one bezel had a thicker coat on it.
I'm still on the lookout for a dial so if I do find one, I'll do these touch ups once again. It's been a labour of love and as the first serious watch I bought, she deserves it!
 

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Congratulations Jaliya48,

from my previous experience with plastic models the Tamiya paint is the best and some are water soluble.

Just in case you did not see it, in this video the Master Watchmaker Hajime Asaoka paints the second hand of his own brand watch.
I do not know what paint he is using however the technique and the inspiration is there:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86NsiH3BDe0

Best regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Congratulations Jaliya48,

from my previous experience with plastic models the Tamiya paint is the best and some are water soluble.

Just in case you did not see it, in this video the Master Watchmaker Hajime Asaoka paints the second hand of his own brand watch.
I do not know what paint he is using however the technique and the inspiration is there:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86NsiH3BDe0

Best regards.
Thank you! Tamiya paint is easy to work with once it's sufficiently thinned. I actually watched this video as inspiration and used a needle to paint the hands. I think he's using enamel paint as it's thick and not very viscous.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I finally got around to refinishing the original bracelet of my 9119. As I mentioned before, putting this watch together was a global affair; the watch came from Turkey, the parts from America, the donor from the Philippines, the 9038 bracelet from the UK, this original bracelet from Peru and everything put together in Sri Lanka! Unfortunately the bracelet showed considerable signs of use when I received it so I couldn't get all of the deep gouges off but it looks much better now. I had primed the original black areas back when I was painting the bezel and went with the same black automotive paint. Hopefully it'll hold!

In progress
IMG_20180824_165211m.jpg

Installed
IMG_20180827_105144m.jpg

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On the wrist
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Putting this watch together was a bit like restoring a car and like any vintage car, there's still things I can do to improve it! I'll keep those under wrap for now ;)
 

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The next test of skill came when installing the hands. I have to thank our resident 8110 maestro Brian (31Jewels) for his expertise and guidance in this endeavor. He sent me a detailed procedure on indexing the hands and points to look out for. Thank you Brian!
Could you share this procedure here on forum? It will help us - Citizen's fans |>

And one another request - what is a diameter and thickness of crystal/glass from 67-9119?
 

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The crystal particulars are-31.80mm diameter and 1.85mm thick. Keep in mind however that the original crystal has a wider bevel that really stands out once installed. I haven't found an aftermarket that matches this profile yet.

The procedure is quite simple really, remove the hands after resetting them and note the exact location of the sweep hand index (if it doesn't reset to zero-like on mine). Remove the bezel and crystal on the case and push the reset pusher in while installing the chronograph hands. Use light pressure and test the reset position thoroughly before installing the bezel and crystal.
 

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Love the patience and skill some of you guys have, really impressive. Must raise the attachment to the watch a lot. But sadly a battery change is all I attempt!
 

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The crystal particulars are-31.80mm diameter and 1.85mm thick. Keep in mind however that the original crystal has a wider bevel that really stands out once installed. I haven't found an aftermarket that matches this profile yet.

The procedure is quite simple really, remove the hands after resetting them and note the exact location of the sweep hand index (if it doesn't reset to zero-like on mine). Remove the bezel and crystal on the case and push the reset pusher in while installing the chronograph hands. Use light pressure and test the reset position thoroughly before installing the bezel and crystal.
Can some one help me please I've bought a 1984 citizen diver 150 but I need a replacement bezel as close as possible to keeping it original? I'm new to this
 
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