Citizen Bull Head 8110a Restoration and Service by 31 Jewels

47302 Views 81 Replies 26 Participants Last post by Mark9999, Sep 19, 2021

31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · Apr 17, 2012 (Edited)

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Hi, my name is 31 Jewels and i am a master watchmaker located 80 miles north of Lancaster Pa. You may have seen my other service and restorations here in the Citizen/Seiko forums before of the 8110a 23 jewel mechanical chronographs. I have been collecting the 8110a models for years now and i have mentioned that my favorite model is the 67-9054. I have never owned, serviced or restored a Bull Head model before and this is the first time i have gotten the chance to have one in my shop. Actually 2. This thread is devoted to the restoration and service of 2 different 1970s era Citizen Bull heads. The watch pictured here is owned by Vsansbajo. He started the "Citizen 8110a High End Thread" here in the forums last year and has asked me to service and restore one of his personal watches. This Bull Head pictured here was purchased new by his Uncle in Spain in the early 1970s. Heirloom work is something i specialize in and really enjoy that aspect of my job. Finding out the history of the watches and their stories of the past. Stay tuned 31

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serdal23

· #41 · May 26, 2012

+1! We need more threads like this more often!

Wonderful info, great fotos, thank you very much for your precious time 31J.

Capt. Serdal

jaliya48

· #42 · May 28, 2012

This restoration is nothing short of extraordinary! Beautiful work on both watches.
Looking forward for more 8110 restorations!

SunnyChrono6

· #43 · Sep 6, 2012

Hey,remember you said that the escape wheel is shock proof?Does that mean the watch itself is shock proof or just the most delicate part?

31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · #44 · Sep 8, 2012

SunnyChrono6 said:
Hey,remember you said that the escape wheel is shock proof?Does that mean the watch itself is shock proof or just the most delicate part?

SunnyC, The 8110a has shock proofing on the escape wheel and the balance. Both are delicate parts. As with any precision mechanical machine, its best to be carefull not to bang it or hit it against things. No watch is really "shock proof" if it is subjected to extreme impacts. 31

Pawl_Buster

· #45 · Sep 8, 2012

Thank you very much for sharing this thread with us 31 Jewels.
You do remarkable work

WIS_Chronomaster

· #46 · Sep 9, 2012

I have one of these with a gold dial maybe i should post some pictures, i didnt know people were still interested in these pieces

QuangVuong

· #47 · Nov 29, 2012 (Edited)

Sorry double post

QuangVuong

· #48 · Nov 29, 2012

Did you ever get around to find a glass case back that fits?

I've recently acquired the 67-9119 and I'm gonna custom make a dial(carbon fibre). Just wanting to know, how hard is it to correctly repress the hands? I'm thinking once you reset the chrono, the seconds and the sub hands will be quite easy to put back in the correct position. It's the min and hour hands, since there is no seconds hand. How did you go about this?

And is it possible to source new badges and hour markers?

31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · #49 · Dec 1, 2012 (Edited)

Post a pic of the watch. The watch hands are the easy part. The minute and hour recorder are the hard ones. There is nothing that holds those pivots in place. You will see after you press and reset. The trick is....... to not put "one mark or scratch on the dial" while pressing.

Everything is aftermarket now a days. Go on ebay and you can find lots of old dials with nice parts for a custom.

The glass back is on hold for now, and at some point my black dial Bull Head here will go on the lot for sale.
I have so many watch jobs and no time. 31

QuangVuong

· #50 · Dec 1, 2012

That's my watch which I shall be receiving sometime this week. Looks like the paint for the seconds and sub dials have faded or something. Will go ahead with repainting these in yellow and may possibly relume it as well.

Anyway, I haven't seen the backside of the dial. Would you have a picture somewhere? If not, how is it held onto the movement?

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QuangVuong

· #51 · Dec 19, 2012

Just got it on Mon. And heres what I did. Stuffed up on the Citizen badge,so I guess Ill need to find one.

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31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · #52 · Dec 20, 2012 (Edited)

I finally bought a Citizen 67-9151 that i just started to restore. I'll post a new resto thread for it. I might have a spare Citizen logo for you. 31

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QuangVuong

· #53 · Dec 20, 2012

Looking forward to it!

Pawl_Buster

· #54 · Dec 20, 2012

QuangVuong said:
Just got it on Mon. And heres what I did. Stuffed up on the Citizen badge,so I guess Ill need to find one.

What is the extra crown at 10 o'clock for???

QuangVuong

· #55 · Dec 20, 2012

That crown rotates the internal bezel. However, that crown is stuck and there is no gear connecting it to the bezel. So basically it is stuck in that position.

Bschulz

· #56 · Dec 21, 2012

Hello there
I happen to have an identical 8110 that is in very good shape. I have been looking for ideas on one aspect of tidying her up. On the numerical outer ring of the dial. The black is starting to disintegrate encroaching on the white numerals. I have thought about just touching it up with a black permanent marker. Any suggestion on a better way that may prevent it from continuing?

Thanks
Bob
About 80 miles south of Lancaster pa

Best Regards,
Bob

31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · #57 · Dec 22, 2012

Bob, post some pics up. Which 8110a model are you refering to? 31

Bschulz

· #58 · Dec 24, 2012

Its that damn outer black numerical ring on dial. Other then that this watch is in great shape. I have a replacement crystal ready when I get around to it.

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Best Regards,
Bob

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Igorek

· #59 · Dec 24, 2012

Do you guys know what kind of polishing cloth do I need to polish my watch; it's a steel?

thanks in advance

31 Jewels

Discussion Starter · #60 · Dec 26, 2012 (Edited)

Bob, a sharpi works great. You might see it with the eye if your looking for it. The chipping part is where the jurys still out.
An interesting thing i've learned with these watches, and the other 8110a models ive worked on, is some have metal movement holders and some have plastic.
The metal ones work way better and are actually held in by screws and clamps where the plastic one just snaps on.
The plastic ones don't hold the movement in the case nearly as securely as the metal ones, and as a result the dial will move and the inner bezel will rub the paint off of it. 31

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