I have very specific requirements of a watch. It has to go on a bracelet. I have a few that didn't come on a bracelet and I don't wear them for that reason. I like to swap to a strap on occasion, but grosso modo: bracelet!
Also, I'm not fond of watches that don't have a chronograph. I find non-chrono's quite boring and not usable. I use my chronograph's a lot to keep (track of) time, and not having it, annoys me for some weird reason. I also don't like divers, so I haven't invested much in that. I'm also not fond of small watches; anything under 42mm is not even up for consideration. Just, hard pass. So, that leaves me with not much to juggle with. There are a few, very few, sub 42mm watches I enjoy but those are squares, like the Cartier Santos, so they were quite large. No problem for me.
My watch collection follows a few rules.
1) bracelet!
2) minimum 42mm, maximum 51mm. Sweet spot is 45-47 millimeters.
3) When presented with the option, titanium always has my preference over steel.
4) A no-date option is only viable if it is truly something special. It has to be a really, really unique piece for me to forgo the date.
5) I want to be able to wear it almost everywhere I go. A surprise trip to the beach or a pool, a sudden visit to a fancy restaurant, unannounced visit to an embassy: I need a watch that I can dress up or down (yes, all of that has happened to me before).
6) I want the brand to have some heritage, some meaning and gravitas. You won't see me wear a Zelos or Rze. Nothing wrong with those brands, but they don't tickle that itch I have as an educated historian. Ball, Hamilton, Longines, Tissot: they all have pedigree, heritage, history. Even a fairly young brand as Sinn, Damasko, or Bell&Ross has some pedigree. Sinn got its legitimacy via undiluted, pure pilot's watches (and via Heuer), Damasko and B&R via Sinn, and they all stand on their own two feet.
7) The story matters. What is the story of that watch, why does it exist. My Hanhart exists, because it is a wink, a nod, to a bygone era. It has the layout, the design, of a 1940s military chronograph, and the red markers also have a story of their own, truly unique to Hanhart. Same with Hamilton and Ball (railroad watches), Sinn and Damasko (pilot's post WW2), Tutima (WW2 chrono's, post WW2 NATO watches), etc etc. The watches without story, get worn less by me than the ones with. Unless they're too pretty to wear (Zenith, Citizen, Montblanc)... That is a problem.
8) When in doubt, don't buy it. It's that simple.
My collection is not housed in a box; it's housed in an apartment building!
The first level. I have changed up the order a bit because i got a few new ones in recently. The Longines Chrono GMT Admiral moved a tier lower as of this writing. The others are my top pieces. not that level 2 is something to sniff at, but this... this is my very best. The Omega and Zenith are my center pieces, yet, I wear the Omega way more. The Omega is the one I got because I wanted to keep track of the time in Mexico, where my wife lives. I got that one, and it is one of my favorites. It has the Professional case, a bracelet it truly love, and so many more features that just 'work' for me, but will turn the stomach of a purist. And that, my friends, I love. I'm not a purist. I have watches to fill a need, not to fill a spot. The Montblanc is my wife's favorite, but it needs to be repaired but I'm too lazy and cheap to do that! The Damasko, Tutima, and Sinn are all the same: center minute chrono hand chronographs based on the Valjoux 7750, but the execution is completely different. The Tutima is one of the uglies watches I own but I love it dearly. It is so comfortable, so relaxed, so it's own thing. The case is truly ugly, the bracelet is ugly, the bracelet and case integration is ugly. YET... It is so robust and reliable. And comfortable. The Ball is a watch I had wanted for a very long time: triple calendar chronograph moonphase. But now I have it, and I never wear it. Why? No idea. Perhaps I'll wear it more often once I get a bracelet for it? The Longines was a backup for the Omega, but comes in steel instead of titanium, so it's less of a replacement/backup as much as it is a thing of its own in my collection. I'm not fond of this watch, largely because it fits like a pair of gloves fits a dog. The bracelet is amazing and beautiful but the link sizes are so weird that with one link fewer it wears too tight and with one link more, it's too loose! Shame, because it looks kick-ass with its silver dial. The Citizen is the one I'll save in a fire (plus whatever's on my wrist!). My then-fiancée now wife gave it to me, and that watch is worth more to me than the entire damn thing. I never wear it. I can't. It's hers, it's too beautiful. Only on very special ocassions do I whip it out. The Bell&Ross is my GADA, especially now I've got it on a steel bracelet. It's got a flyback center minute hand chronograph as well as a GMT. It's just not funny how versatile this watch is. If Omega ever decided to make a watch like that I'm sure a) it would be fully integrated instead of a module, and b) it would be extremely popular. Or perhaps that's just wishful thinking. The Longines' spot has been toaken over now, by my Hanhart.
Tier 2. Now, the 45mm Laco has moved a level down because it isn't working (properly), so that spot is filled by the Longines; I always had wanted that Hamilton Big Pilot, and I managed to get it second hand but in new-condition, for 350 euro's. How could I pass that up?! I couldnt'. Funny enough, the Hamilton on the leatherstrap is one of the few on leather, and cemented my disdain for leather. I love this watch, I do. Automatic antimagnetic chronograph with a coin edge bezel, onion crown and pushers, bicompax anthracite layout, and naturally aged lume (wasn't always this yellow!). But at 42mm, on leather, it feels wrong. The leather chaves my skin and gives me an annoying rash that takes a week to dissipate. Even worse, the leather is falling apart now. The Tissot, bottom row in the middle, was a fun watch. Got it for nickels on the dollar. It's an automatic chronograph, with applied indices. It's just not funny how cool this watch is, and I love to wear it, but there are others that are better. The Hamilton Railroad has such a weird, quirky case shape, I love it. I wear it way more than I thought I would. The Converter doesn't get enough wrist time and thats a shame. It is a beautiful piece with a beautiful dial, a great chrono, and the bezel is super useful. The cream-colored watch has a bronze case, hesalite crystal, ceramic bezel insert, and a handwound column wheel movement. I call it my lazy man's Speedmaster. Not sure if that's fair, of course, but hey... we all have our vices? The Orises used to be my Grails, but since I got them, my apetite has dwindled. I just don't like them anymore. It's not the size, perse, but the case shape, the stupid bezel lock, the screw down pushers, the weird connection of the bracelet to the case... Some watches I own, I love wearing for days and days. These two? nop. The Laco, the big one,was a grail, and I love that piece. It's a 55mm replica with a display caseback, automatic decorated movement, sterile dial, but 'correct' case shape, lugs,crown, etc. It is a beast, and I think it's one of the coolest watches ever. The 45mm sibling on its right was rendered inoperable by my ex. It can be repaired, but like the Montblanc: don't feel like it.
Tier 3. The oldies, the leftovers. The graveyard. The Citizen is still working, and that one will be handed down to my nephew (don't have a son; yet?). The Sisu is a piece of junk. An ETA movement, yeah, but the crown won't screw down anymore, so it's not water resistant anymore, at all. The tiny one on the left is my 'dress' watch. It's a handwound Soviet watch with applied numerals. Technically it's a sports watch, but I don't wear it as such. The Seiko5 is my dad's old watch. He got it from his father when he was 16 or so. I can feel the rotor move but to repair this one is more costly than buying a working specimen. The other Seiko is the one I bought myself. I'm not saying it's my first watch, it isn't, but it is the first one I bought myself.
45mm monopusher chronograph. It's ridiculously cool. And my gosh it's comfortable. If it had a date and a clicked bezel, it'd be perfect.
Ball Spacemaster, 45mm titanium chronograph GMT with all the bells and whistles. I was contemplating this watch or the Omega; the Omega won back then, but this one always nibbled in the back of my mind. This year, my grandmother decided to gift me this for my birthday, and I couldn't be happier or more satisfied with it. It is such a cool watch, and because it's titanium it wears like a champ. The Orises have been supplanted, immediately, by this one.
This is my collection, as well as some stories behind each. I don't like the straight, beaten path. I have a Speedmaster, yes, but not the usual one. I have an El Primero, yes, but not the usual one(s). I have a diver with a ceramic bezel, but not Rolex, Omega, Breitling, or Tudor. I don't like the usual suspects. For someone else, sure. Go ahead, I'll applaud your choices, for you. But, it's not for me.