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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for a few (2 or 3) Vostok collectors with modding / watchmaking experience in the US or Canada to test out some custom caseback openers. These openers are specific for the Amphibia (BA) or a Komandirskie (BK). So far I've confirmed the fit and operation with Amphibia 710, 110 and 120; as well as a Komandirskie 811. After a little feedback I'll put them up for sale on the forum (If allowed of course).

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Although they are made from a (durable) plastic I've tested them on all my Vostoks and have had no issues. I've was able to loosen the casebacks from the factory tightness and retighten. I don't have much experience working on watches so feedback here is appreciated. These tools wont (or at least shouldn't) cause any scratching. I'm not sure how long they will last but if you confirm the teeth are properly fit before applying torque they should last quite a while.

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The Amphibia opener does fit over the Vostok "big glass" clear caseback that I purchased from Meranom.

After a series of redesigns for fit / sizing they are fitting well. The 6 teeth fit into the square notches on the fixing ring, the tool's cylinder clears both the solid and clear glass casebacks and the tool's handles clear the case lugs. Thanks to @Matt_Bored_O for the encouragement. I will send you one of course if you'd like (y)

So, If you have experience with Vostoks and hopefully one of each of the popular case versions of the Amphibias and the Komandirskies I'll mail you one free of charge for your feedback.

Hope everyone is well and let me know if this is something you are interested in.

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I forget if you mentioned what material you're printing with in a previous post.
Do you have this design up on Thingiverse? I have some PLA I can test it with.

I still think it'll be hard to get the "pins" strong enough to correctly tighten the caseback, but that's what testing is for :)
Are you using variable infill (100% in the area that contacts the watch and ~45% on the handle)?

Edit: Oh, just read that you might sell them. If you don't want to share the STL, I completely understand.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I still think it'll be hard to get the "pins" strong enough to correctly tighten the caseback, but that's what testing is for :)
Are you using variable infill (100% in the area that contacts the watch and ~45% on the handle)?

Edit: Oh, just read that you might sell them. If you don't want to share the STL, I completely understand.
I was concerned about the strength of the pins but I've had no issue so far. I can torque down more than is needed, without over deforming the gasket and the pins have no damage. This is a PLA "Pro" that is the strongest of any FDM material I've used. I find it stronger than my carbon fiber PETG. I oversize the pins then post process to shape. Only issue I see if a case is stuck on due to corrosion. But that's when any handheld opener is not appropriate. (?) But right, that's what testing is for. And I'm hanging on to this STL for now :)
 

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I have a Komandirskie K-35 on the way right now, I'd love to have one of these if they go on sale here, I like the simple design - my only concern would be the plastic tabs wearing over time, as others have said. It's amazing the opportunities that affordable 3D printing can bring
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will a symmetrical grip be more useful?
In my testing I found it was best to use one thumb to press down on the back of the case opener, assuring the teeth are firmly in place, using your other hand to torque the handle. It really doesn't take that much force to open or tighten. But that's just my experience testing with all brand new Vostoks. So mileage may very.
 

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I think these are a very good idea but don't think plastic will be durable enough.

I'll test one for you and give feedback. I'll pay postage to the UK if you are happy with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think these are a very good idea but don't think plastic will be durable enough.

I'll test one for you and give feedback. I'll pay postage to the UK if you are happy with that?
Cool. You have both Amphibias and Komandirskies to try? PM me your shipping details so I can check on shipping.
 

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I have a big glass case back I want to swap on to my 060. I'd love to test one!

I have a K' GMT as well I can try out for a crown swap. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a big glass case back I want to swap on to my 060. I'd love to test one!

I have a K' GMT as well I can try out for a crown swap. Let me know.
Hi Eagle,

Sounds good to me. Most of the interest so far has been international. Much easier to ship within the US lol.

Regarding the K' GMT. Do you know if the caseback dimensions are the same as the classic K's? Since I don't have a GMT to measure. I'm getting ~ 27.86mm notch to notch. Maybe you can post a pic of the back of your GMT too?

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And I'll mail them out tomorrow if you PM me a shipping address.
 

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Made something quick in Fusion...not sure when I'll have the time to print it. Measurements should be pretty precise, but I think the pegs need to be changed a little bit. I just want to test how durable these pins can be made.
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Edit: I actually just printed one (in PLA). Dimensions are near perfect for three of my Amphibias.
After opening and closing one of them to how tight I usually make my casebacks, a pin broke off. I'm sure I can improve the design or print with a higher temperature for better layer adhesion, but in my opinion a fully printed part like this is more like a single-use tool 🙃

Looks like your pins are a little more hefty in addition to it being printed in a slightly stronger material.
Next time I mod a Vostok I'll probably make a variation with some threaded metal inserts or use some of these pins secured with epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice tool! But perhaps you can add the end to the short handle as shown in the picture. Then it would be a multipurpose tool ...

View attachment 15503801

Best wishes
Stephan
Very interesting. I'll keep this in mind. Side note: I recently changed the bezel on a new K' Classic. The stock bezel was on extremely tight. Took me some time to remove it. I found the copper wire they used in the stock bezel had not been seated in the channel / groove when it was fit. So it the copper wire was squished flat between the bezel and case.

I did end up putting a scratch on the K' case. But it's a learning experience...

I was able to reshape the copper wire and use it with my new bezel.

I was thinking of making a flexible "doughnut" type bezel remover similar to the Horotec MSA07.031. I can use a flexible TPU material with some replaceable blade inserts.



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