WatchUSeek Watch Forums banner

Deepstar II Impressions

8.4K views 26 replies 18 participants last post by  ominus  
#1 · (Edited)
My Deepstar II just landed, in time for the Holidays. Between the explosion of interest leading to the almost server-crashing, instant sell-out of this recent release, and the chatter on the forums both in anticipation and following receipt of this unique diver, my curiosity ran rampant. The DSII having landed on my doorstep 24 hours ago, here are my impressions and a few wrist shots…

Bracelet: Let me start off with the beads of rice (“BoR”) bracelet. I’m a bracelet-guy rather than a strap-guy, so the NATO and Tropic were non-starters. As a bracelet-guy, topping my preferences is the BoR-style, if for no other reason…its wrist-wrapping comfort. I also like the look. The bracelet links measure almost 19mm at the lug, tapering-down slightly to 17.7mm at the clasp. The clasp width measures 20mm. (These measurements compliments of #Flyingdoctor.) The clasp functions as it should. It fastens securely. Some have complained that it’s difficult to open. It definitely does close tightly and requires greater upward pressure than a simple flick of the finger to open this deployment; however, I prefer that. No hardware wiggle and jiggle, and feels super-secure on the wrist. The clasp is also beautifully finished, with a satiny-brushed surface and a polished, signed flip-lock. As regards sizing the bracelet, note the following. It arrives lengthy, obviously designed to fit pretty much any wrist. I had to remove 3 links to comfortably fit my just-under-6.75” wrist. With the micro-adjustment clasp, I got the perfect fit using the second of four portholes. For me at least, the "perfect fit" means having enough slack that the bracelet easily slides up the forearm about 1-5/8" from the normal wearing position, before meeting resistance. One of the best and smartest things about the bracelet is the use of screws rather than pins as link connectors, something not often seen on bracelets that accompany sub-$2K watches. The screws make this bracelet easy to size. However, you do need a very small slotted screwdriver as the screws are recessed and the slots on the screws are, as I measure them, about 1.3mm, though this isn’t a statement of absolute precision. It would have been a nice touch for Aquastar to include a bracelet tool, as some other companies (like Sinn) do, especially since their watches are available only online. And, the good folks at Aquastar know that the bracelet, given it factory length, will need to be sized by almost every buyer. Frankly, it's difficult to imagine this watch on an 8" wrist, proportion-wise. In any event, you need to be very patient when removing the screws so as not to allow the screwdriver to slip, slide, and skid right into the associated or neighboring link, painfully to be sure. True, one may be anxious to get that shiny new DSII on the wrist – I certainly was – but patience will pay off in unscathed links. Final point: the bracelet snakes around the wrist like a serpentine, is not a hair-puller, and has enough spacing between the beads of rice to allow your wrist to breath under the links.

Watch: The watch itself looks a bit like a work of art (my opinion), with its unique dial configuration, elongated trapezoidal applied-steel markers, gorgeous silver contrasting oversized sub-seconds dial, vintage-style luminous bezel pip and markers, subtle signage, and striking hands with vintage luminous inserts. I bought the grey dial version and, I must say, the dial is stunning as light dances off its grey hue, casting differing degrees of shimmer, shade and shadow. My understanding from speaking with Synchron is that the grey dial version sold out first and fast. The 36.75mm case (37mm depending on who’s talking) is smallish compared to the modern and ubiquitous divers at 39, 40, 42mm and beyond. However, its 47mm lug-to-lug length, coupled with its approximate 13.3mm height (including crystal), make the case feel more substantial than one might associate with a 37mm girth. To me, it wears similar to a modern 36mm Datejust, albeit with a bit of extra height. What I like about the size of the DSII is that it does not feel like a clunky sports watch, but rather a comfortable daily-wear piece that shares elements of both a diver and casual dress watch. Would I have preferred a slightly larger case – say 38.5 or 39mm? Absolutely, if I’m being honest. But that did not deter me from acquiring this piece given my relatively-small wrist-size (6.75”) and the fact that, as others have noted, the DSII does wear a little larger than its stated size. [UPDATE FEB. 21/22: I sold my Deepstar II after only 2 months of ownership and only a few wearings. I simply could not get used to the small case diameter, being used to sports watches having more conventional diameters of 40mm plus. The heft of the Deepstar II's case (length and height) just couldn't make up for the small diameter; it truly felt undersized even for my less-than-7-inch wrist. I now see a steady stream of Deepstar II's popping up for sale on WUS and other platforms -- this early in the model's life -- and I am absolutely convinced that many original purchasers, like myself, soon discovered the same issue with the diminutive case diameter, for which unfortunately there is no work-around. That's really too bad as the watch itself, as described throughout this review, is a true gem in its own right; however, it also has to feel right on the wrist, and this one unfortunately felt...too small. I understand that the designer's intention was to stay faithful to the original dimensions, but it just didn't work for me once I got past my initial infatuation. At least keep this in mind if you're thinking of purchasing the Deepstar II.] The screw-down crown has a perfect diameter and height for the case. Some might say, I think correctly, that the crown is oversized for the case. Indeed, although the case diameter, at 37mm, is about 3mm smaller than the 40mm Rolex Submariner, the crown on the DSII is only about a millimeter smaller in diameter than the Submariner crown. The DSII therefore scores points here, in that the crown is very easily gripped, pulled and rotated. The crown also threads internally, is signed with the stylized star logo, and is silky smooth in its winding and setting operations. Before leaving the subject, the weight of the watch and BoR bracelet together, sized for my ~6.75" wrist, is 132 grams or 4.7 oz. Not quite in a league with the big boy divers, but hardly a lightweight either. You definitely know you're wearing it, just not to the point of distraction (other than often staring at it).

Movement & Timekeeping: I have the watch for only 24 hours as I write this, and it has not gained or lost even a second that I can discern. [EDIT: It is now day-5 since I received the DSII and it has neither perceptibly gained nor lost any time when measured against an accurate reference source. The movement's performance so far has therefore been remarkable, certainly well within COSC standards even though not COSC-certified.] I had read good things about the Sellita 290-1 movement, being very favorably compared to its ETA counterpart. Watchmaker Jordan P. Ficklin, in a digital wristwatch e-zine called Professional Watches (Nov. 24, 2020), wrote: “As a watchmaker, I have worked with both ETA and Sellita movements straight from the factory and in after-sales service. From the factory, they perform as total equals with average daily rates and positional variations which would easily qualify them for COSC certification. Adjustments are made exactly the same and equally as easy. The finish on the components is nearly identical. They are made from similar quality materials and usually exhibit similar amounts of wear after normal use”. That’s reassuring and seems to be the general consensus, to which of course there are always exceptions. I also like the fact that the folks at Synchron/Aquastar have modified the movement (date removal, no ghost-stop for the date position when pulling out the crown, etc.) and have obviously regulated it to high standards as demonstrated by its performance thus far. Others have reported similarly excellent timekeeping.

Presentation: The packaging (inner and outer boxes) that the watch arrived in is impressive, and heavy. Aquastar did not cut corners there. Traditional booklets that come with a watch have been replaced by an electronic warranty and data card. The manufacturer’s warranty is 1 year. That’s not enough. It should be at least 2 years for a watch at this price-point. I’m not comparing the watch to a Seiko, but I will note that Seiko’s current (and popular) SPB143, at a price point somewhat lower than the DSII, comes with a 3 year warranty.

Final Thoughts: The DSII has a uniqueness about it, historically and aesthetically, that no doubt caused the flurry of buying activity on the day of release, followed by a quick sell-out. It is not, however, a watch for everyone or even most people, given its vintage dimensions [see my UPDATE above, regarding dimensions], somewhat quirky dial, and limited function (time only). Among its many positives, though, are that you won’t ever have to set or re-set a date, or worry about whether this 200-meter diver can plunge deeper than your desk; and, it’s almost guaranteed that “watch people” (if you’re reading this, you’re likely one of them) will notice, comment upon or enquire about your DSII.
 
#2 ·
My Deepstar II just landed, in time for the Holidays. Between the explosion of interest leading to the almost server-crashing, instant sell-out of this recent release, and the chatter on the forums both in anticipation and following receipt of this unique diver, my curiosity ran rampant. The DSII having landed on my doorstep 24 hours ago, here are my impressions and a few wrist shots…

Bracelet: Let me start off with the beads of rice (“BoR”) bracelet. I’m a bracelet-guy rather than a strap-guy, so the NATO and Tropic were non-starters. As a bracelet-guy, topping my preferences is the BoR-style, if for no other reason…its wrist-wrapping comfort. I also like the look. The bracelet links measure almost 19mm at the lug, tapering-down slightly to 17.7mm at the clasp. The clasp width measures 20mm. (These measurements compliments of #Flyingdoctor.) The clasp functions as it should. It fastens securely. Some have complained that it’s difficult to open. It definitely does close tightly and requires greater upward pressure than a simple flick of the finger to open this deployment; however, I prefer that. No hardware wiggle and jiggle, and feels super-secure on the wrist. The clasp is also beautifully finished, with a satiny-brushed surface and a polished, signed flip-lock. As regards sizing the bracelet, note the following. It arrives lengthy, obviously designed to fit pretty much any wrist. I had to remove 3 links to comfortably fit my just-under-6.75” wrist. With the micro-adjustment clasp, I got the perfect fit using the second of four portholes. One of the best and smartest things about the bracelet is the use of screws rather than pins as link connectors, something not often seen on bracelets that accompany sub-$2K watches. The screws make this bracelet easy to size. However, you do need a very small slotted screwdriver as the screws are recessed and the slots on the screws are, as I measure them, about 1.3mm, though this isn’t a statement of absolute precision. It would have been a nice touch for Aquastar to include a bracelet tool, as some other companies (like Sinn) do, especially since their watches are available only online. In any event, you need to be very patient in removing the screws so as not to allow the screwdriver to slip and slide, scratching the link. Sure, one may be anxious to get that DSII on the wrist – I certainly was – but patience will pay off in unmarred links.

Watch: The watch itself looks a bit like a work of art (my opinion), with its unique dial configuration, elongated trapezoidal applied-steel markers, gorgeous contrasting subdial, vintage-style luminous bezel pip and markers, subtle signage, and striking hands with vintage luminous inserts. I bought the grey dial version and, I must say, the dial is stunning as light dances off its grey hue, causing differing degrees of shimmer, shade and shadow. My understanding from speaking with Synchron is that the grey dial sold out first. The 36.75mm case (37mm depending on who’s talking) is smallish compared to the modern and ubiquitous divers at 39, 40, 42mm and beyond. However, its 47mm lug-to-lug length, coupled with its approximate 13.3mm height (incl. the crystal), make the case feel more substantial than one might associate with a 37mm girth. To me, the wear feels similar to a modern 36mm Rolex Datejust, with a bit of extra height. What I like about the size of the DSII is that it does not feel like a clunky sports watch, but rather a comfortable daily-wear piece that has elements of both a diver and a casual dress watch, especially with the BoR bracelet. Would I have preferred a slightly larger case – say 38.5 or 39mm? Absolutely, if I’m being honest. But that did not deter me from acquiring this piece given my relatively-small wrist-size (6.75”) and the fact that, as others have noted, the DSII does wear a little larger than its stated size. (The Deepstar chrono was a consideration that I dismissed on learning the dimensions…it would have been too large and weighty for my wrist.) The screw-down crown is a perfect size for the case – easily gripped, threaded internally, signed with the stylized star logo, and silky smooth in winding and setting operations.

Movement: I have the watch for only 24 hours as I write this, and it has not gained or lost even a second that I can discern. I had read good things about the Sellita 290-1 movement, being very favorably compared to its ETA counterpart. One watchmaker wrote: “As a watchmaker, I have worked with both ETA and Sellita movements straight from the factory and in after-sales service. From the factory, they perform as total equals with average daily rates and positional variations which would easily qualify them for COSC certification. Adjustments are made exactly the same and equally as easy. The finish on the components is nearly identical. They are made from similar quality materials and usually exhibit similar amounts of wear after normal use”. That’s reassuring and seems to be the general consensus, to which of course there are always exceptions. I also like the fact that the folks at Synchron/Aquastar have modified (date removal, etc.) and regulated this movement to high standards, which so far shows in its performance (although, as I noted, I’ve only had it for 24 hours). Others have reported excellent timeke
eping as well.

Presentation: The packaging (inner and outer boxes) that the watch arrived in is impressive, and heavy. Aquastar did not cut corners there. Traditional booklets that come with a watch have been replaced by an electronic warranty and data card. The manufacturer’s warranty is 1 year. That’s not enough. I think it should be at least 2 years for a watch at this price-point. I’m not comparing the watch to a Seiko, but I will note that Seiko’s current (and popular) SPB143, at a price point somewhat lower than the DSII, comes with a 3 year warranty.

Final Thoughts: The DSII has a uniqueness about it, historically and aesthetically, that no doubt caused the flurry of buying activity on the day of release, followed by a quick sell-out. It is not, however, a watch for everyone or even most people, given its vintage dimensions, somewhat quirky dial, and limited function (time only). Among its many positives, though, are that you won’t ever have to set or re-set a date, or worry about this 200-meter diver plunging deeper than your desk; and, it’s almost guaranteed that “watch people” (if you’re reading this, you’re likely one of them) will notice, comment upon or enquire about your DSII.
Great review. A slightly wider, say 39mm, width was a consideration, but to keep the dimensions consistent with the classic case shape the lug to lug length gets into the 50mm region which may have ruined the wearability especially for us 6.75 inch wrist guys.

Maybe in the future a case with shorter lugs and 39mm width could be considered. I'd certainly like to see how it would look / wear.
 
#9 ·
I can't say it any better than James Stacey did in his recent Hodinkee review*, so I'll quote him: "Another pleasing element is the 120-click bi-directional bezel action, which has next-to-no wiggle and clicks evenly for each progression. With ceramic bearings, the action is smooth but tactile and it feels a step above what I've come to expect from a watch under $2,000."

*Source: "Plying Hypothetical Waters With The Aquastar Deepstar II: A drop dead gorgeous tribute to a legacy cut short by time", Hodinkee, November 19, 2021
 
#20 · (Edited)
Lume is "slow but deep," in my experience. You're not necessarily going to be blinded with the initial blast a la MarineMaster 300 but mine lasts right through the night on the cardinal indices and hands, so performs quite like my IWCs, Omegas, Sinn U-series divers and older Doxas with equivalent or better durability thus far.

No diving for me here in Canada until the late spring but it's even and well-applied, and I'm actually pretty impressed with the lume treatment overall.

Image

Image
 

Attachments

#21 ·
I'm thinking about trying to pick one of these up second hand. One of the ads I found mentioned some kind of known defect with the crown not fully unscrewing or something. Was that an actual issue, and if so has it been corrected? I can't find mentioned of it anywhere else.
(apologies for the necro thread, but this looks like the only Deepstar II thread that isn't in the For Sale section)