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Deployant Between OEM & Cheap Aftermarket

5.6K views 20 replies 17 participants last post by  Sugman  
#1 ·
I am wondering if people have any suggestions for deployant clasps that are actually 1) good quality and 2) are not priced like OEM ones. There can be no doubt that some of the OEM clasps are superior in terms of design, comfort, quality, etc. Virtually every watch starting at about the level of Tudor comes with an excellent deployant clasp. But when, for example, G.O. wants $567 for an additional deployant clasp (alone/without a strap), it is hard to pull the trigger. Even brands that are a tier below that (e.g., Omega and Tudor) want hundreds for a clasp.

However, most after-market deployants have nowhere near the same level of materials, machining, design, etc. Sure, clasps like Hadley-Roma and ±$30 Ebay clasps cannot be held to the same standard. But honestly, they are not even worth that price to me.

Is there nothing in-between? Is this a gap in the market? I would think that a high-quality, well-designed deployant – approaching that of OEM clasps – would be really popular even if it cost in the $100-$200 range.

The closest I have found is the Artem RM Style, but it has no actual locking mechanism, instead relying on the spring of the steel to prevent opening. It is a clever design that shows what the aftermarket world could produce. But I would prefer some type of locking mechanism.
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I will go with the Artem, for now. But I welcome any other suggestions. And if you decide to go into business to fill this market gap, I am your first customer!
 
#5 · (Edited)
For single-fold I tend to go with WatchObsession's Hirsch clasps
As for butterfly clasps, a little while ago I bought 2 Vario clasps and plan on ordering some more in various sizes the next time I order straps from them.

I have no real preference. On some straps I just get a better fit with one type, on other straps the other works better for me.
I guess it mostly depends on the length of the strap that normally holds the buckle, as that length determines how the clasp ends up sitting on my wrist.
 
#7 ·
I've seen a lot of recommendations for aftermarket bracelets and buckles on WUS and reddit over the years. Many with people absolutely swearing by them.

All have been crap.

Would approach carefully. There's probably a gap in the market, but you'd face a giant hurdle of convincing people who actually care / can discern the quality difference to believe that "itll be different this time". And those that can't tell... well, they will be happy with their uncle seiko or whatever at the cheaper pricepoint.
 
#8 ·
I bought a $40 verson off Ali-X and love it (omega style). in pictures I can't tell the difference between a $10 and a $40 version, but the former has horrible mfg, the latter has very nice tight tolerances and is about as good as anything aftermarket.

I also have a $100 Formex. Nice, but realistically it is partially made of fragile plastic (I broke mine), the "adjustment" always resets back to loose. Has to have the proper hole spacing on the strap. Great concept, but not great execution. Well made though.
 
#9 ·
I've heard good things about Formex, but I've largely given up on aftermarket clasps after buying several. I just suck it up and buy OEM. The best butterfly I've found that I still use is from Bob Davis on Mywatchmaker.net, but I don't think he's in business anymore. Not OEM finishing quality, but better made than your typical Ali Express special which is what most brands sell.
 
#10 ·
I got one from Artem, along with a very nice sailcloth strap, and think it is about as nice as any of the aftermarket ones I've seen. That being said, it is not of the same quality as my Omega. I do agree with you though, it does seem like there is a hole in the market place that could be filled if somebody wanted to.
 
#12 ·
Artem's deployant clasp seems to be closely resembling the designs of Blancpain's clasp for their Leman series in the 2010s. I never tried the Artem version but have been using the Blancpain version with no issues (spring loaded without a locking mechanism). The spring on mine is actually pretty tight and at no time I would feel insecure with my watch. I would say worth to try it out. I only tried out one cheap deployant clasp about 10 years ago and was pretty disappointed in it. It added a lot of thickness which I did not like. While it had a locking mechanism, it would easily unlock with the slightest pressure around the clasp. Since then, I stopped buying aftermarket clasp, and would rather work with a pin buckle if I have to.
 
#14 ·
I like WatchGecko's deployants, although they're only available in 16 and 18mm sizes.

Artem's clasps are nice, but I think they're branded versions of the same clasps you can get on AliExpress, albeit with better quality control. Given the price difference, though, you can buy 3 of the same clasp on AliExpress, pick the best of the three, and still pay half the price of Artem.
 
#15 ·
Thanks, all. It seems like there really is a huge gap in quality between OEM and the aftermarket options. I guess it is either the Artem or OEM for me. Given that I can get seven of the Artems for the price of the G.O. OEM, it seems like the best value going. Although the Formex are interesting, their use of "injected micro fiber carbon composite" sounds a lot like plastic with carbon fiber added to me. Not the feel I am seeking. Still hoping someone knows of a sweet micro brand that has been under the radar.
 
#18 ·
I've found this is a 'you get what you pay for' type of deal. I've got an aftermarket version of the Omega deployant and the real thing in Ti. The real thing blows the aftermarket out of the water.
 
#21 ·
Thanks, @Tohono Rat, for this topic. I’ve often wondered the same thing. I’ll be paying attention to the responses and checking some of them out.

I have a couple of the Artem RM-style clasps. I really like them and have no problem with them not locking. I think the design works well…at least for now. I’ll be interested to see if the leaf springs the provide tension weaken over time with repeated use. I don’t think they will, but I’m curious to see how it turns out.