4R36 has manual winding and hacking. Beside that, they're identical.
You would have immediately found this answer with a search.

 

4R36 has manual winding and hacking. Beside that, they're identical.
You would have immediately found this answer with a search.

But since the OP opted to come ask here instead, let us regale him with some extra (secret) info that is not readily available online: ;-)

1. 4R36 also comes with a secret chamber that can be used for hiding weed, or extra pennies
2. If you pull on the crown even a bit too hard on the 4R36, it will literally explode, and take your wrist clean off.
3. 4R36 is a chick magnet - it just is. If you wear one, they WILL be drawn to you, and not know why.

etc.

 

7s is older. 4r has hacking and winding. Which is better is a bit complicated as it is not that you can choose one of them for a specific watch. For me, while I appreciate hacking and hand winding I found the 4r not very accurate and hard to regulate.

 

Chronopolis:
Chick magnet? Oh were that only so!!!
I'm sure you are aware the 4R36 is a clone of the SII NH35?
Identical in every respect down to being an auto and hand
cranker. Hacks just like the 4R36.

Victer uses the NH35 from the cheepest to the priciest pieces
they sell. From the Victer Pro Diver to their upper "Reserve"
pieces. I know cuz I drank the Victer Kool Aide once!!!


X Traindriver Art

 

I'm sure you are aware the 4R36 is a clone of the SII NH35?

SII is Seiko Instruments International. Same product, same Japan factory, different label.

 

The 4R37 is better than both of them combined. I wore it in an office once. Its durability and ruggedness was unbelievable - it stood up to everything. I also noticed that women definitely paid more attention to me, so the 4R37 is better. It's a great value, a lot of watch for the money and the craftsmanship and fit and finish of that mass produced factory made movement has to be seen to be believed.

 

jupiter;
When yer older than baseball the hotties stop lookin.
No matter if you are wearing a dirt cheep watch or a
Patek Phillipe Calatrava.

X Traindriver Art

 

Sent from my Motorola StarTAC 70

 

Lmao!!![emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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I hope you've learned a valuable lesson...refrain from asking innocent questions here. You will be mocked and ridiculed. In other words, you wasted your time.

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I hope you've learned a valuable lesson...refrain from asking innocent questions here. You will be mocked and ridiculed. In other words, you wasted your time.

Time to write an innocent question 30 sec, time to write a funny reply or debate 3 min, which one is wasted more?

 

And the 7s26 is the basis for the 4r36 and 6r15. Seiko tweeked each slightly to improve them.....and charge more money for them.

 

I have to come to the 7s's rescue here, sure the 4r might pull all the chicks but the 7s26 actually is on par for accuracy in the time department.

 

Which is to say it is pot luck if one receives an accurate 7s, 4r or 6r. One might or might not get one of decent accuracy.

 

I have a 6, two 4's an two 7's. With the ones that hack, I obsess over accuracy. With my 7's (both of which run slow), I set them ahead by whatever difference there is between whatever the seconds hand is at when they come to life after shaking and what the real time is. Then I wear them 2 or 3 days before changing watches and don't really care what they do.

 

Ironically I've had much better accuracy results with the four I have with the 7s26. I've had two with 4r36, and currently have three 6r15, and all ran/run slow.

 

Perhaps Seiko deliberately produces unadjusted movements so that we could appreciate the zen in the ever changing cycle of life?

:-d

 

Definitely one way to look at it. I kinda agree.

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For me, it's preference. the 7S26 is classic, and cheaper with a non hacking and non manual wind base. I don't use these features or care for them much anyway, so it doesn't influence me personally. Although they're nice to have, they aren't necessary. but the 4R is definitely less accurate. so you decide whether losing accuracy for those features is worth it to you.


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... but the 4R is definitely less accurate. so you decide whether losing accuracy for those features is worth it to you.

A quick search on the subject will tell you that 7s26C and 4r36A movements are completely the same, apart from the hacking and handwinding. Mechanically the same. Same part numbers for everything remotely related to accuracy.

 

The 7s26 is like a Volvo engine. Runs forever.

 

In my book the 4r35/6 (nh35a/36a) is more accurate than the standard 7s26/36.

I own three watches powered by 7s26/36 and about 15 or so watches with nh35/36a or 4r36.

I'd say average accuracy for 4r movements is +8 secs, at least with my watches. The worst (Invicta Pro Diver, Nh35a) runs 17 secs fast iirc and the best (Seiko SRP655) runs +2 fast.

None of my Seiko movements run slow, no matter the brand.

The standard 7s movements I have all run fast over 15 secs a day.

So, I would always choose a 4r over a 7s.

 

According to a descending sort in Excel, the 7s26 is greater.

 

There is little difference save the hand-winding and hacking features on the 4R36. There is also the 4R15/6 with a better power reserve and accuracy under more conditions due to its Spron 510 alloy mainspring but no hacking or hand-winding so it is superior AND inferior!

 

Where are the extra three jewels in the 4r situated btw?

 

The difference is hacking and hand-winding. And having owned the 7S26, 4R36 and 6R15, the 7S26 is the best deal of the bunch. They're all a toss of the dice on accuracy. Hacking is nice, but unnecessary. Hand-winding isn't that necessary or nice either. I mean, I won't complain about having those features, but they aren't worth the up-charge. When I had initially climbed the ladder I expected I was getting more and better as I went up. And while there are some real differences, the reality of the differences up that particular ladder are quite disappointing as it stands.

If you are considering one of these movements are your motivation for buying the watch; remember any of these three is ultimately an old, unadjusted, low-beat movement. If I had it over to do again, I'd have skipped the monster. I thought I was getting something more than my little 5 series, in fact, I really wasn't. I'd still have the Sumo, it's a beautiful watch, the case is superb, but the 6R15 is a sorry motivation to buy one. In fact, if today, I were give the option of choosing between buying a Sumo with 6R15 at the usual price, and buying a Sumo with a 7S26 at reduced price, I'd happily take the 7S26.

Perhaps if Seiko did something other than take a movement spit fresh of the line and slap it into a case the varied virtues of these movements might matter more. But as it stands I just don't see it.

 

And having owned the 7S26, 4R36 and 6R15, the 7S26 is the best deal of the bunch. They're all a toss of the dice on accuracy.

Just have the watch regulated to eliminate the luck factor. It is not difficult nor expensive.

 

Longer power reserves are really only for millionaires and rap artists who own several watches, if you're a normal person who can only afford an SKX, the only power reserve you need is perhaps 10h, before you wake up again.