[gnorman19]

I have an Adolf Schild AS 1525 Caliber in a Marnic Gotham wristwatch case. I have removed the stem, and the two screws holding the movement into the case. The movement, and dial spin freely in the case but will not fall out. I can not figure out how to remove it without brute force. Is there a technique or method I am unaware of.


Thanks

 

[Odessa200]

I think the screws hold it so it does not fall out from the crystal side 🙂. Can you check if there is the ring with the crystal that can be taken off?

 

[gnorman19]

To my eye...... I don't see one.



There is a split line between where the bezel?? meets the back case?

 

[Odessa200]

Yes, usually you can see a spilt line. Not there?

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

Agree with the crystal side solution. Another possibility is that the crystal can be removed with a crystal lift. Is there a cylindrical area on the outside edge of the crystal?

Here are some examples of such crystals:



The crystal lift grasps the cylindrical section and squeezes it in, loosening the edge of the crystal from the groove in the case. You can google Crystal Lift to get an idea of what I'm talking about and a cheap one (Esslinger, $15) is adequate.

 

[gnorman19]

Not on the top along the side. Will try to get a photo.

 

[gnorman19]

Not on the top along the side. Will try to get a photo.

Well nevermind. An injudicious poke at the slit popped the crystal and the upper bezel off. Sometimes luck with the guidance of the knowledgeable can be successful!!!
Many thanks. Now it looks like I will need a hand puller. Still waiting on my basic tools from Esslinger.....
Grazie Mille (Italian for thousand thanks), I think!!

 

[gnorman19]

Agree with the crystal side solution. Another possibility is that the crystal can be removed with a crystal lift. Is there a cylindrical area on the outside edge of the crystal?

Here are some examples of such crystals:

View attachment 14777705

The crystal lift grasps the cylindrical section and squeezes it in, loosening the edge of the crystal from the groove in the case. You can google Crystal Lift to get an idea of what I'm talking about and a cheap one (Esslinger, $15) is adequate.

Hello and thanks ExpiredWatchdog, as noted above, I got lucky! Appreciate the assistance!

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

You're welcome. Just don't get me started about dynamic pressure.

 

[gnorman19]

Agree with the crystal side solution. Another possibility is that the crystal can be removed with a crystal lift. Is there a cylindrical area on the outside edge of the crystal?

Here are some examples of such crystals:

View attachment 14777705

The crystal lift grasps the cylindrical section and squeezes it in, loosening the edge of the crystal from the groove in the case. You can google Crystal Lift to get an idea of what I'm talking about and a cheap one (Esslinger, $15) is adequate.

Howdy again Sir!!
While attempting to clean the upper bezel ring with the crystal in it, the crystal decided to become detached. I am supposing my previous optimism about crystal lifting and such was premature. Thanks for the google idea.

 

[Odessa200]

Agree with the crystal side solution. Another possibility is that the crystal can be removed with a crystal lift. Is there a cylindrical area on the outside edge of the crystal?

Here are some examples of such crystals:

View attachment 14777705

The crystal lift grasps the cylindrical section and squeezes it in, loosening the edge of the crystal from the groove in the case. You can google Crystal Lift to get an idea of what I'm talking about and a cheap one (Esslinger, $15) is adequate.

Howdy again Sir!!
While attempting to clean the upper bezel ring with the crystal in it, the crystal decided to become detached. I am supposing my previous optimism about crystal lifting and such was premature. Thanks for the google idea.

You can glue it back it. Need the crystal cement.

 

[gnorman19]

I have many skills to learn. I currently am using one of those head things with magnifying lenses of different power. I can not get the power to see well without getting too close to the movement as to not fit a screwdriver. Do you have any suggestions to get the reach?

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

Get a decent loupe and loupe wire. I got a "Bergeon 2611-TN Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier with Opening" in 4x and 2.5" focal distance and "Bergeon 5461 Headband for In-the-Eye Loupes" both from Esslinger and a total of less than $25.

I personally use more complicated solutions but you can't go wrong with this rig. Don't try to squint the other eye, just let it go out of focus and ignore it.

GS Hypo for your gluing needs.

 

[gnorman19]

Get a decent loupe and loupe wire. I got a "Bergeon 2611-TN Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier with Opening" in 4x and 2.5" focal distance and "Bergeon 5461 Headband for In-the-Eye Loupes" both from Esslinger and a total of less than $25.

I personally use more complicated solutions but you can't go wrong with this rig. Don't try to squint the other eye, just let it go out of focus and ignore it.

GS Hypo for your gluing needs.

So far I've only seen these things in movies. I will youtube them to get a feel or their usage.
More to buy.....
Thanks

 

[gnorman19]

Get a decent loupe and loupe wire. I got a "Bergeon 2611-TN Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier with Opening" in 4x and 2.5" focal distance and "Bergeon 5461 Headband for In-the-Eye Loupes" both from Esslinger and a total of less than $25.

I personally use more complicated solutions but you can't go wrong with this rig. Don't try to squint the other eye, just let it go out of focus and ignore it.

GS Hypo for your gluing needs.

What type of eye to hand distance does this give generally? Ideally fwiw I'd guess I'd like about 15 to 16 ". Maybe not practical?

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

2 and a half inches. More would take some serious optics and probably wouldn't be practical due to the optical lever (slight move of the head and the subject is gone). The weight of the optics would be a problem.

I have a stereo microscope that has better focal distance for a given magnification, but there are downsides that makes it useful only for certain cases (inspection, mostly).

There's a reason the loupe's the go-to solution for watchmaking.

I put up a thread titled "Loupe Recommendations" here https://www.watchuseek.com/f6/loupe-recommendations-5011409.html several months ago.

Oh, with a 2.5 inch working distance, you can imagine that the work needs to be elevated or your back will suffer. That's why a watchmakers bench (or tabletop stand) comes up so high; you should be able to comfortably rest your chin on the table.

 

[gnorman19]

Okay sounds like a good place to start. Look forward to reading that thread also. Will a shorter chair work? ..:-0

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

^^ That's my current setup. I have a counter-top height table and use a standard chair. I have to sit on a pillow to get my head to the right height tho, not optimal. I'd love to put together a nice bench but it's not much of a priority now.

 

[gnorman19]

Having finally gotten the Marnic back together, I can understand the benefits. Holding the movement in one hand close to my eye and manipulating tools over a dust bunny/lint/JRussell hair filled floor while looking through a loop is not for the weak of heart. The Loop, head spring and crystal glue worked perfectly.
Are the cheap ebay 110VAC dequassers worth the money. Tiny little screws wouldn't stay in place?
BTW thanks for the heads up on tools.

 

[ExpiredWatchdog]

^^ Yeah, the $10 Blue Chinese Cheapy does fine on disassembled watches or tools. No guarantees on an assembled watch tho.