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Discussion Starter #1
I was testing the TG software (timegrapher), which is at last working properly on my setup. I tested a number of my watches previously tested on a timegrapher and with watchcheck and initially I was surprised that all my watches were doing much worse, apart from my ETA Tissot which was doing +1s as always. To cut a long story short I had just shook then a bit the watches and not fully would then before the measurement. My most accurate miyota was doing +1 s when fully would, but only +7 s when the spring had no tension. An NH35 was doing +5 s fully would, but only +12s when not fully would, another chinese one was the most trivial. +20 s unwound and only+3s fully wound.

It is normal even though I wasn't expecting so high differences.

So the question is do you fully wound your watches before wearing them? If you had a single watch it could be fully wound most times, but if you rotate with sometimes more than one watch in the day I don't think this would be the case.

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So the question is do you fully wound your watches before wearing them? If you had a single watch it could be fully wound most times, but if you rotate with sometimes more than one watch in the day I don't think this would be the case.
Simply no.

Modern watch movements have very efficient automatic winding mechanism. A couple of handshakes are enough to start the watch.
 

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I just set them, give them two shakes and wear them. Some watches might need a couple of turns of the crown. Of course timekeeping should improve with more tension on the spring, but wearing the watch should achieve that soon enough. The exception would be some of the cheaper Tongji autos that have been seen on this forum with underweight rotor, but I've got a couple of Tongjis that auto-wind just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When first getting into the hobby I was obsessed with accuracy. Now I see that since I will not be wearing a watch anyhow for more than 1-2 days in a row even +/- 30 s per day is not such a big deal (I have one watch that is +30 s when wearing it from stop, while when fully wound this goes down to 14 s/d).

I also have another bad habit. While I am at the office working, I put the watch on and off the wrist multiple times. Sometimes it might be on the desk even for hours before wearing it again. This means that while the watches are ok for operation from the minimal wrist time, they will almost never be fully wound.

Nowadays I have just 3 watches with a tongji movement. One has a fully working one (Tevise T802) so it auto winds and I face no trouble at all. The second is a Tevise T801 which I will keep since it was my first chinese watch, but I don't wear it at all since getting the Pagani Design submariner homage and finally I have a Jaragar Hublot homage which never self-winds. When I get the time I will try first on the T801 to remove the not working auto winding mechanism and if this goes well, will do the same in the Jaragar.
 

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I just set them, give them two shakes and wear them. Some watches might need a couple of turns of the crown. Of course timekeeping should improve with more tension on the spring, but wearing the watch should achieve that soon enough. The exception would be some of the cheaper Tongji autos that have been seen on this forum with underweight rotor, but I've got a couple of Tongjis that auto-wind just fine.
Yeah I do the same. Haven't even timed most of my pieces for accuracy.

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Discussion Starter #7
I just saw that the phone wrote wrong instead of wound on the topic title. If a mod can change it I would be grateful!!!

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