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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a month back I came seeking your collective expertise in the thread entitled "Hamilton Intra-matic Alternatives". There were many great suggestions that I've been following up on but as I once read here on WUS, half the fun is the journey towards refining one's taste and ending up with the acquisition of an as-perfect-as-possible timepiece for the niche to be filled.

After further research and taking the previous thread's suggestions into consideration, I think the Intra-matic would be too dressy for me. For my second and probably last nice watch (ha!), I want something that while still formal can pull double or triple duty. Below is the ultimate wishlist for the nice all-around type of dressy watch I'm after with criteria based on: acting as a counterpart to my black-dialed Rado D-Star 200 diver, versatility between formal and semi-formal, not looking foolish on my 8"+ wrist and being able to easily slip under a shirt cuff.

automatic movement
silver dial (w/ Guilloche)
date at 6 o'clock
Roman numerals (alternating)
40-42mm x ultra-thin
classy/sophisticated hands
domed sapphire crystal
budget ~ $1000

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Here are the finalists alongside the pertinent criteria in no particular order:

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Strap Black

Frederique Constant Classics Index
white dial
date at 3
Roman numerals alt (x6)
40 x 10.2
classy hands
not sure if crystal is domed - probably not
$699

I just love the even-numbered Roman numerals on this one - a look not often seen. Not crazy about the date placement or white dial but the size and hands are great.

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory White Black

Oris Artelier
silver dial w/ Guilloche
date at 6 o'clock
Roman numerals alt (x4)
40.5 x 11.25
pointer hands w/ lume
domed crystal
$759

This watch comes closest to having it all but its one shortcoming is the most important - is 11.25mm too thick to fit under a cuff? The primary reason I'm watch shopping is to have something that'll fit comfortably in a way my 12mm Rado won't. Perhaps if the domed crystal takes up a good portion of the 11.25mm thickness it'll still slide under cuffs easier than my diver? Also, the lumed pointer hands seem a bit more sporty than formal.

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Fashion accessory Jewellery


Archimede Klassik Guilloche
silver dial w/ Guilloche
date at 6 o'clock
Arabic numerals
42 x 9.8
classy hands (blue)
non-domed crystal
$560

Another beautiful piece and the size is the best so far - big enough diameter for my monster wrist but extremely thin for under-the-cuff goodness. I'm not too enthused about all the numbers (Arabic hours AND seconds) but everything else is spot on and at a great price to boot.

The watches below were on my radar but didn't make the final three for the reasons stated.

Baume et Mercier Classima
Great size and classy dial but out of my price range.

Junkers Bauhaus 6050M-5
Size okay but the dial's a bit plain and I can't stand the weird logo's placement.

Junghans Max Bill
Very elegant but too small at 38mm.

Raymond Weil Maestro
Excellent size (41.5 x 9.2), silver dial w/ Guilloche, classy hands - in many ways a spot-on piece for what I'm looking for and yet - blah. One of those instances where it just doesn't pop for me.

Zeppelin 7350-4
I love the Polynesian influenced numerals a la the Glashutte Senator but can't deal with the lack of balance brought about by not having a 3.

Hamilton Intra-matic
The dress watch that jumpstarted my search. Still a beautiful watch but not flexible enough for anything but formal occasions.

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Okay fellow watch enthusiasts - tell me your thoughts if you've any to share. Pros and cons, personal experiences with any of the timepieces mentioned, alternative suggestions, whatever. Thanks in advance - I'll be watching this thread develop with bated breath!
 

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Nice list!

Really like the FC.

For the Oris, that thickness should probably be OK to slip under a shirt cuff. I have a domed crystal watch that's a little thicker, technically, but it tucks away perfectly. Do you have an AD nearby to try it on?

Good luck with your choice. Hard to go wrong there.
 

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I personally like the Freddy C. That is just a beautiful watch, and I usually don't like Roman numerals.

But if you're looking for a date at 6 and a domed sapphire, the Oris really fits the bill. The dial work on that watch is impressive. But Oris watches are usually a little thicker but my guess that watch is still going to fit under most cuffs. I think my Breitling Transocean is around 11.25mm and I have no issue fitting it under a button or French cuff...

Good luck with your decision. I'm not a fan of the Archmiede as it looks like it's trying too hard to be a IWC Portuguese. The Oris and Freddy C both have their own personality and design cues...


Adam
 

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Archimede Klassic....|>..|>..|>..:p..:p..:p
 

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If there's an Oris in the final line up it usually gets my vote (especially if I think it's the best looking there) and this one is no exception.
 

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I love the FC, but it loses points given how derivative of the IWC Portifino it is. So Oris gets my vote. Here's the IWC I'm referring to:

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Fashion accessory Jewellery
 

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Could it be that the Rado's chrono pushers have something to do with fitting under your sleeve? If that might be so, the Oris could still be the ticket. I'm partial to Oris and Archimede, but frankly you can't go wrong with any of the three.
 

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I like the Oris. But I'm also partial to brown straps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to everyone for their input, OP here.

After a few days keeping all three images up as my desktop, I narrowed it down to the Oris Artelier. Since fitting it under a cuff is my top priority, I searched everywhere for a thickness measurement but couldn't find anything. I ended up phoning an AD who then called the Oris rep and got back to me that it's 10.7mm. Slim, but slim enough?

Another result of research was a reevaluation of the Zeppelin Flatline 7350-4. I'd contacted them a while back because a photo on their parent company's website shows the dial with the digit 3 in place, whereas the photo on the actual Junkers store site showed it without a 3. The former looks fantastic, the latter looks unbalanced to me. The Zeppelin rep assured me that they'd just updated the design to include the 3 so I really think that one is back in play - 40mm x 10mm with a so-called specifically designed thin case? I'm intrigued! Here are the two versions below to show the difference.

I think this Zeppelin takes many great characteristics of the original Hamilton Intra-matic I was interested in (60's design, domed crystal, silver sunburst dial) and adds some nice touches too - second hand, lume, visually interesting numbers, 2824-2 movement. Oh well - I should be ordering the Flatline by the end of the week!

Watch Analog watch Black Watch accessory Strap

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Fashion accessory Strap
 

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Have you considered Seiko's Cocktail Time? SARB065 is perhaps their most popular, but the one with Roman numerals (the pic) is probably what you'd like best. Perfect size for your wrist (I think 41mm) and it has a beautiful dial. Now, I know you want sapphire, but def give acrylic a chance. Like you, I used to prefer sapphire crystals, but now, if given a chance, I go for domed acrylic, mineral, hardlex, etc., as I think they can be implemented better than sapphire and they give your watch a much more organic look and feel than a sapphire would. And if you scratch one, it's fairly easy to buff it out...
 

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Have you checked out Nomos? If you can live without domed crystal I think the Tangomat Datum might push your buttons?;) Total thickness of 8.3mm is pretty slim:)
Anyways, you've narrowed it down to some pretty nice pieces yourself. Good luck!=)
 
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