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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello,

I recently purchased a NOS DW-5000SP (module 1545) and I think it needs a new battery. When I push the light button the display goes dim. Would this most likely be the battery?

My contact in Japan, who obtained the watch for me, says to try Casio USA first. If they can't do the battery/gasket change then he suggested sending it to him and he will forward it to Casio Japan. Do you agree with this advice?

Would it be a bad idea to take it to my local watch repair station in the mall? I paid a lot of money for this watch so if it means having to package it up and send it off to Casio then I'm fine with that - I'd rather it be done right. I was just trying to save myself from some inconvenience if possible.

*Note: this watch has the screwback case

Your thoughts?
 

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I would think you could source a case gasket, possibly from any local watch shop, especially since it is a screw back, and the battery change is a snap. That would be the route I would choose.|>
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would think you could source a case gasket, possibly from any local watch shop, especially since it is a screw back, and the battery change is a snap. That would be the route I would choose.|>
I don't have any tools to do it ... and I'd really prefer to not mess with it. I'm willing to pay to have it done right - that's not a big deal to me.
 

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:-! Good for you David. Finally got the "one"???

As for the battery change, I dug up some old threads and yes, dimming lights means the battery needs to be changed.

My take on this is, if you have a source for original Casio parts(gasket), I'd bring it to any local watch repairman that I'd feel comfortable with, someone you've already dealt with from let's say a previous battery change or bracelet sizing. You'll already know how they treat your watch regardless of price. And they have the experience and skill to do it right as I know your greatest concern is messing up the the module in some way or at the very least, scratching up your nice caseback had you been the one to do it. But for Breakwater, why are these gaskets standard sizes? I'm just asking because if they are, that'd be even cooler because original parts price isn't the problem...it's the shipping cost or the ebay premium.

But on the flipside, it probably isn't that hard to do. I say this because I just stripped down my Spike Lee(didn't disassemble module, just got it out) and it wasn't hard at all. Same tools(gradually bought them 1 by 1) as stated from the How-to "battery change/reverse lcd" threads from the subforum section above and I was done disassembling/assembling in a few minutes(okay half an hour or so ;-) ). I did this just to see how difficult a 1545 module swap might be, and thankfully it was a breeze. Now deciding to invest in a donor 5600E or not as I really want a plain EL background but also am put off because I'm one of those types that follow the "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" rule.

I forgot to add though David, I really didn't scrutinize the module parts so I can't tell you if it was easy to find the AC contact point to reset the watch after a batt change. But there was a reminder/instruction sticker on the inside of the caseback just so that we won't forget. So yeah, have someone else experienced do it for right now...they might even throw in a pressure test if you ask, then maybe as the wabi shows, you can do it yourself next time.

As far as actual Casio service centers doing it for you, I dunno...do you think they'd do the pressure test like they might with the Frogman on your 5000SP(non-iso rated)? Because if not, then there's no advantage of really going thru the trouble, time, and probably more costly process of having Casio service centers to do it when the nearest local watch repairman can do it for you in a couple of minutes if he had the gasket available.
 

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But for Breakwater, why are these gaskets standard sizes? I'm just asking because if they are, that'd be even cooler because original parts price isn't the problem...it's the shipping cost or the ebay premium.
Screwback models utilise circle-shaped gaskets which are widely available in different sizes, while most newer backplate models have a model specific shape that absulutely demands original casio parts. So a watchmaker should already have a fitting gasket at hand without the need to wait for Casio to supply one.

So yeah, have someone else experienced do it for right now...
Yep. Although I've had the caseback contact of my MR-G bent badly by a professional watchmaker who charged me 12 Euros for the service. So I'm now rather going to do it myself than letting some "professional" do it.
 

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if u let it do by someone elses, make sure he did it on many casio, or g-shock watches before...its completely different than servicing mechanics or other analogue watches, you have to mind the springs not to jump around, AC the watch, etc... if you cant find such a person, better make it yourself, the people here can give you every advice you need to make it better than any watchmaker who never had a casio in his hands. |>
 

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Screwback models utilise circle-shaped gaskets which are widely available in different sizes, while most newer backplate models have a model specific shape that absulutely demands original casio parts. So a watchmaker should already have a fitting gasket at hand without the need to wait for Casio to supply one.
Great.:-!

And good point fonklover, about repairmen that aren't too careful/experienced with digital watches, never really thought of it that way.|>

Tip: I've found a way to keep your screwback case from scratching when you remove it or put it back in with a remover with those little (legs)prongs??? on them...Just hold your watch head inside a ziploc bag and use the tool from the outside.|> The ziploc bag is just thick enough to prevent scratches but thin/flexible enough for the prongs to push into those little slots. As for using tape or something like that, I tried...it doesn't work because the tape doesn't flex when the prong is put into those slots, it leaves sticky stuff in there too. If I had some different sized wiring laying around, I also thought of using the plastic/rubber insulator of the wires to cover the tool's prongs. So that also might work for you guys who have wiring around.
Another big tip to prevent scratching...Before you try to adjust the prongs to the exact distance between slots on the caseback...use a ruler to measure the distance and then use the ruler to adjust your tool. That way the only time the tool's prongs are going to touch your watch is when it will open or tighten the caseback. And when done together with the ziploc bag technique, it wont ever touch it at all. If you're really OCD about it, tape on some masking tape on the screwback, just leave the slots uncovered. :)
 
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