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Early Poljot cal. 3133 components

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1.7K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  polmax3133  
#1 ·
As you may have sen over in the WRUW thread, I had recently enhanced my Gorbatko chronograph more to what I believe is original form by adding a steel case and bracelet from the same period the watch was manufactured. Although I believe the case that came with the watch was not the original, the rest of the watch was in very good condition for it's age and all parts of the movement, except the chrono-minute jumper spring, are original. This makes this particular chronograph an excellent case study for determining what exactly were the initial components used to build the very first cal. 3133 movements.

I had first only wanted to better prepare the watch for storage by cleaning the entire movement, and then adjusting it to run as best as possible using the original parts and no lubricants. As before, I had taken mental notes of the differences, but this time I decided to backtrack a little and take a few images so that I/we can cross reference the parts with other first generation movements when the opportunity arises. Because so many changes were made in the early years of production, this may better assist us in determining the exact order in which they were produced.

1) This is the wheel within a wheel that advances the date ring. On the Valjoux it was just a single wheel that advanced the ring with a lever, were Poljot's updated version of the movement added a quick set function that a)advances the ring with a spring that remains immobile while advancing the ring, and b)gives way when pressure is applied in the opposite direction allowing a quicker repositioning of the spring back to the point where it can once again advanced the wheel.

On this, one of the initial movements produced, the spring was caped; presumably to keep it from popping off the wheel.

This feature was obviously deemed unnecessary soon after production began.



2) Not overly helpful since is was in use through much of the eighties, the early dial rests were bolted onto the main plate.



3) This is the spring that hold in place the setting lever. With this early version, the winding pinion has nothing to hold it in place when the movement is disassembled, whereas the late-model has an additional arm that keeps it from falling through the plate.



The Incabloc shock protection is also slightly different in the early stages of production. Much like other Poljot movements, the retaining spring had wings that slide in from the back of the housing, and the two main legs on the spring form a diamond shape. Also note a bend in the spring that forces the arm (with roller attached) into the date ring teeth.





Subsequent versions had a different spring design and were inserted from the inside as opposed to the outside of the housing. When replacing the balance components, only replace the wheel w/spring and both jewels.



I think by now everyone is familiar with the early brake clamps.



The winding stem on this older piece is female and the pin that holds it in place is machined on the main plate, while the reverse is true for late-models. I have received more than a few late-model Poljot chronographs with broken off stem pins, but at least they are easily replaced if you have a spare...



The straight edge on the initial pallet cock has also been well documented.



This is the spacer that sits between the balance bridge and the plate. The new version just slides in place, whereas the old version has to be stuck on the bridge with a little grease before installing the balance assembly.



Despite it`s age and lack of lubricants this piece is still twisting away pretty good!



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Not so sure that I want to get into purchasing a mini-welder to test this theory out, but it may be possible to have the reset hammer revert back to the "off" position after pressing the reset button by remodeling the cam on the reset hammer:



The old cam is in green, and the new cam in red.

If enough force is generated when pressing the reset button, the elevated and super loaded jumper spring may be able to roll back down the cam and force the hammer back to the "off" position, which would resolve all of those annoying start up issues.
 
#5 ·
Thanks, guys! One important factor that I failed to mention is that all of these changes took place in the very early stages of development, while the cal. 3017 was still the mainstay chronograph. Therefore, a quick way to determine whether you 3133 oldie may have one of more of these components is to first check that the chronograph's running wheels are, for the most part, steel coloured. The second generation gold-tone wheels were fitted well after these early components were replaced and at the end of cal. 3017 production.

Also note that the friction spring, and chrono-minute jumper spring were both initially steel coloured.
 
#6 ·
Something I neglected to mention was additional modifications made to late versions of the date advance wheel and jump lever. Initial versions of the date advance gear assembly had a substantial cut out in the main disc that allowed the date jump lever, which has an additional elbow jutting out, to move only when the date was changing. Therefore, there were three version of the date advance function in all. First, the cap on the inner planetary wheel was removed, then the elbow on the lever and cut out on the disc were removed.

Note that the newer disc will not work with the older lever, therefore both parts need to be replaced if the spring on the planetary gear is broken.



However, the spring can be replaced if you have the right tools, or your watchmaker is willing and able to do some very fine detail work. You should probably use a staking kit to secure the gear, but some other method may also work. Once the gear is secure, use a sharp and pointed razor knife to part the walls of the clamp on the inner gear, and remove the broken spring. Insert the new spring and close the clamp tight.



The groove cut into the main plate that allows the elbow on the lever to pass into the disc was never removed on newer models of the chronograph.



I was rebuilding an older watch when this dawned on me.
 
#8 ·
I imagine that they do. Some of the repairs I see are truly amazing.

For example:

A very ingenious repair made by watchmakers when the pin on the winding stem breaks off. Instead of replacing the stem, a pin is inserted into the reamed hole that normally support the stem. Then, a hole is drilled into the end of the winding stem where the pin broke off. Obviously, some precision tools are needed to make this repair, and I imagine it would only be worth doing in the east where labour may be cheaper than the part, or another ****** kill is planned via eBay.



Anyway, this repair should not be confused with the initial design of the winding mechanism mentioned previously in this post.
 
#9 ·
Someone had a problem a few years ago with a chrono-minute hand that did not rotate freely, and I think I found the answer.

The thick portion of the chrono-minute wheel's shaft on the older steel-coloured hands, is longer than on the second generation of wheels. If the brass bushing inserted into the main plate is adjusted so that the end of the thick portion of the shaft is riding on it, inserting an older wheel could, and most likely will, cause a binding of the shaft between the chrono-bridge jewel and the bushing.

The fix: a)Find a screwdriver that fits snug down through the hole the shaft is inserted through, b) reverse the tip of the screwdriver and reattach to it's handle so that the flat round base can be used as a punch, c) lightly tap the busing deeper into the hole by approximately .5-1mm.



A quick example using a partially disassemble movement. Note that the movement should be secured in a vise before performing this task.



This could also be why so many of the seemingly older chronographs have a gold-coloured chorno-minute wheel. A quick fix repair that replaced the majority of the movement, while retaining some of the older, more visible, components, such as the chrono-wheels, but ultimately failed because the bushing was not set deep enough for the longer shaft on the older wheels.