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I got this last week and cleaned and oiled it and its running great. I have to ask is this authentic ww2 watch? I had to change the balance assembly because the hair spring on it was HORRIBLE bent up and I tried to fix it and did get it to run but it was like 10 minutes an hour fast so I swapped out the whole thing from a parts movement. I hate that it is not gold though it bothers me. I wish there was someone who I could get this fixed at near me or even mail it to someone!! Also it was missing the minute hand so I changed the hands to some incorrect NOS hands I had laying around. Eventually I will get the correct hand and the balance fixed but atleast I can wear it for now. Also why is this movement gold colored? Thanks!








 

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ORD Dept watches were spec'd as the most basic timekeepers for those who need basic timekeeping. Elgin supplied the 580 for all their ORD watches, but the 7j version should be in a case with an OD prefix; the OC's came with 15j versions. The serial of the movement shows as late 1942/1943, so it could have been a legit field swap.

For more information, read through this lovely manual: https://archive.org/details/TM9-1575
The Elgins are on page 141.
 

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That is interesting because the parts movement I took the balance part out of is a 1943 or 44 15j 580 im pretty sure! But I am going to leave this 7j in it with the thought it was a field replacement. Any reason as to why the movement is finished in this gold color? I have a ton of elgins from the era but none of them are finished in gold like this.
ORD Dept watches were spec'd as the most basic timekeepers for those who need basic timekeeping. Elgin supplied the 580 for all their ORD watches, but the 7j version should be in a case with an OD prefix; the OC's came with 15j versions. The serial of the movement shows as late 1942/1943, so it could have been a legit field swap.

For more information, read through this lovely manual: https://archive.org/details/TM9-1575
The Elgins are on page 141.
 

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That is interesting because the parts movement I took the balance part out of is a 1943 or 44 15j 580 im pretty sure! But I am going to leave this 7j in it with the thought it was a field replacement. Any reason as to why the movement is finished in this gold color? I have a ton of elgins from the era but none of them are finished in gold like this.
My understanding is that nickel was in short supply due to the war effort, so a number of different movements Elgin produced during this time were gilded, or 'gold-flashed' as you'll sometimes see it called. I have a 478 (21j 16s) and a 582 (15j 'Jitterbug' timer) from this era, both gilded.

The balance can be removed from the balance cock, you know, so you can keep the gilded cock with the movement.

The 478 is the lefthand watch in this pic.



And here's the 582, with its TINY balance wheel (beats 30/sec)

 

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That is interesting I assume the nickel was used for weapons so was hard to get. I will have to try and practice removing the balance from the balance cock. I kind of just take the watch all apart and put the parts in my ultra sonic machine to clean then then oil and grease and put back together without messing with the balance assembly because one time I tried and I ruined a nice watch. I know my way is probably wrong but I only do this to my own watches and shockingly they work great when I am done. The way I "time" them is tough though because I wear them a whole day and see if its slow or fast then adjust the regulator and then wear it a whole day again and so on until its the best I can get it. Not too bad considering in august of last year I didnt know how to take the back off of a watch (still dont know how for some...)
 

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I generally remove the balance from the cock as the first step in disassembling the movement. Simply unscrew the stud screw about 1/2 turn and then push down a little on the stud. Then unscrew and remove the cock, leaving the balance in place.

Now you can disassemble the upper balance jewels and give them a good cleaning!

To reassemble, I put the fully assembled balance cock/cock dome/regulator upside down on my bench block, then lower the balance onto it. If the hairspring is in good shape, when the pivot is in the hole jewel, the stud should line up with the stud hole. Push it in, gently, and tighten the screw. Then I pick up the balance cock with tweezers and flip it over. Ideally, the hairspring SHOULD have gone between the regulator pins.

At this point I'll put the whole balance/cock assembly onto the naked pillar plate and screw it down, check the balance for easy motion and the hairspring for flatness and trueness. Sometime you need to adjust the height of the stud at this point. Check the regulator - carefully! - to make sure that it's sliding along the hairspring and not grabbing it, and also that moving the regulator doesn't push the coils one way or another. Watch how the hairspring 'breathes', and observe how long it takes for the balance to slow down after a nice puff from the blower.

Your worst enemy in doing this, as I can tell you from bitter personal experience, is pushing too hard on the screwdriver in the stud screw. One slip, and you might bend the hairspring right at the stud. Ask me how I know...
 
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