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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all, thanks for all the help in advance.

My budget can be stretched depending on how much I feel for the watch with an upper bound of $5000. But I would really want to keep it under $2000 for now. This will be my first watch over $1000


  • I am looking for something that is not too sporty (especially no submariner like dials)
  • Can be a dress watch with the right strap
  • Has some complication (with a preference in Day date> world time> GMT>chrono)
  • Display back is preferred
  • No open face
  • Second hand is fine
  • Brand name is important (ex. I would prefer a $1k Tag than a $1k Seiko)

These are some of the watches that I have considered:

Frederique Constant Worldtimer
Hands-On With The Limited Edition Frederique Constant Worldtimer (Live Pics)

(used) IWC 3717
http://www.chrono24.com/en/iwc/chro...24&tab=details&urlSubpath=/iwc/ref-iw3717.htm

(used)Zenith Chronomaster
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Chronograph Chronometer... for $.6,334 for sale from a Trusted Seller on Chrono24

Bulova Accutron
http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/...ryID=58109#fn=sp=1&spc=48&ruleId=13&slotId=31
 

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Welcome to the forum! There is a big difference in what you can buy for 3-5k and what you can buy for 2k in a new watch, especially in terms of the movement (ETA or in-house manufacture)

Your impulse to look at an El Primero is a good one, I would explore that. Try Ashford for Zenith. I would also take a look at Nomos. They offer great value in a dress watch and can be had for around 2k.
 

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2nd the Nomos mention, even if you have to go above $2K for one of their models . . .
 

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I was in a similar position recently. Didn't want to spend more than 2k, but not a whole lot in the $2k range excited me so I ended up getting a preowned Ulysse Nardin. There's a whole lot of really good stuff in the $3k+ region, especially when you go preowned. Zenith is definitely a good brand, they'd be my top pick. Inhouse mvt, nice classic style, and used they can be in range of your budget.
 

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Welcome to the forum! There is a big difference in what you can buy for 3-5k and what you can buy for 2k in a new watch, especially in terms of the movement (ETA or in-house manufacture)

Your impulse to look at an El Primero is a good one, I would explore that. Try Ashford for Zenith. I would also take a look at Nomos. They offer great value in a dress watch and can be had for around 2k.
I agree with your sentiment, but disagree with your price ranges. I think that the 2-5k range in watches is kind of a valley of adornment, where the same basic movements are adorned with logos and cases which bring up the price. Under 2k, there are some great, really top quality micro-brands like Damasko, Ball, Stowa, Longines which have well built watches based on ETA calibers. Going up from there, you get the Tag, Brietling, IWC which (although they're making "in-house" noises lately) are selling stock or slightly modified ETA movements in similar cases for double-triple the cost. Nomos is a exception to this but is practically unique in its positioning. Zenith is also kind of an exception to this, but their prices, especially for the El Primero movements are well outside the valley of adornment.

That said, I'd recommend looking at Stowa. Some of the nicest, cleanest designs and executions in their price range. Especially if you can find one used. Here's a great one Stowa Marine Chronograph, ~1450 EUR new without VAT:
Marine_Chrono_3.jpg
 

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Your 2nd and 3rd requirements are conflicting with each other. Which one of them is more important to you?
 

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You aren't going to do better than a Nomos I think
The off-center PR on that watch drives me insane.

But, yes, I'll just parrot that Nomos is awesome. And of course so is Seiko, although does Seiko have much in the $2k area anyway? Seems like the really awesome GS pieces are all above that.

I just need to buy a damned Snowflake and be done with it. Part of me thinks I'm resisting just for the sake of having something to dream about.
 

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Display back on a watch in this range won't give u much.

Nomos is not a brand name outside of watch forums so let's cross those.

you should be able to find a nice used zenith, panerai, rolex or a Breitling for around those ranges you gave...
Speedmaster pro will almost certainly be recommended but I think for the "brand" requirement u mentioned I think omega may not be as impressive to you as zenith, Rolex etc.
 

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Seiko is a great brand name, but I digress.
Agree. If you're worried about brand name, keep Seiko and ditch Bulova (they were great up until the 50's).

Zenith is a nice choice. Omega (used) should fit in there. Your other choices are nice. Frederique Constant seems to be a nice value. I'd like to add one to my collection.
 

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$1,000 - $5,000?

Seiko Ananta, Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, Grand Seiko, Stowa, Damasko, Sinn, NOMOS, Muhle, Frederique Constant, Longines, Rado, Montblanc, TAG, Ball, Omega(Used/Basic Models), Zenith(Grey)

These are all WUS favourites within the range. Take your pick.
 

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I think Longines for you...Don't buy MSRP....You can get a great Grey Market deal and have a great watch.

You can pick it up for $1,500....New
 
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Speedmaster pro will almost certainly be recommended but I think for the "brand" requirement u mentioned I think omega may not be as impressive to you as zenith, Rolex etc.
I'm surprised the Speedy didn't get mention first and more often. I actually think the Speedy is a good choice. The later model Speedys offer a display back if you're so inclined (not my preferred cal). Grey market will leave you under your preferred budget of $2000 for a 863 and probably a little over for a 1863. At the upper end of the budget towards $5000, I would aim for a JLC.
 

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First of all, thanks for all the help in advance.



  • Has some complication (with a preference in Day date> world time> GMT>chrono)
  • Display back is preferred
  • Brand name is important (ex. I would prefer a $1k Tag than a $1k Seiko)
Are those "greater than" symbols -- meaning that you want day/date, then world time, then chrono, or are those arrows, meaning that you'd prefer chrono at the top?
Here are the watches I'd chose, dancing in and around your requirements:
Stowa 1938 Chrono (dressy chrono)
Chronograph 1938 black polished - STOWA GmbH & Co.KG


Ball (long history of American watches, now mostly swiss, awesome styling that dances between fancy and informal. Tritium tubes for all-day glow)
Diver Freefall (about $3K)

Engineer II Chronometer Red Label for something dressier (COSC specs, unique look)



Sinn (choose your poison) the 358 acrylic is within your price range\
Sinn 358 Acrylic on Strap Solid Back - WatchBuys


... Or the Speedy.

Certainly the names you've heard of are names you've heard of. But your $2K can go a long way with these highly respected, smaller, independent brands.
 

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First of all, thanks for all the help in advance.

My budget can be stretched depending on how much I feel for the watch with an upper bound of $5000. But I would really want to keep it under $2000 for now. This will be my first watch over $1000


  • I am looking for something that is not too sporty (especially no submariner like dials)
  • Can be a dress watch with the right strap
  • Has some complication (with a preference in Day date> world time> GMT>chrono)
  • Display back is preferred
  • No open face
  • Second hand is fine
  • Brand name is important (ex. I would prefer a $1k Tag than a $1k Seiko)

These are some of the watches that I have considered:

Frederique Constant Worldtimer
Hands-On With The Limited Edition Frederique Constant Worldtimer (Live Pics)

(used) IWC 3717
IWC Chrono-Automatic Pilot for $.4,819 for sale from a Trusted Seller on Chrono24

(used)Zenith Chronomaster
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Chronograph Chronometer... for $.6,334 for sale from a Trusted Seller on Chrono24

Bulova Accutron
http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/...ryID=58109#fn=sp=1&spc=48&ruleId=13&slotId=31
If brand name is important, I'm assuming you mean to non-WIS, that basically kills Nomos, Stowa and Seiko (Credor). I think you hit it on the head with the Zenith, you can get a lot of Elites for that price. You could get an

  • Omega Aquaterra which can be dressy or casual and has a great movement
  • The Longines Column Wheel chrono is a looker IMO
  • A used Omega Speedmaster is pretty close to that price point
  • A Used Cartier Santos or roadster
  • A Bell & Ross Heritage Model (123 or something)
  • A Maurice Lacroix
 
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