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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.

I am posting from Japan, at very small watchmaking workshop.

I have a plan to make a new watch, it is a 'field watch'. Field watch is a sort of tool for outdoor acting. I am interesting in a simple fixed-lug tool watch, just I want to wear on my wrist personally.

Before start of the making, I listed its specification. Though only as hope for now.
  1. 316L stainless steel case
  2. 10ATM water resistant
  3. Screw-down crown
  4. Luminous index
  5. Swiss ETA2824 automatic movement

Here is my design. I don't need complex shape. I have to use hand operating small lathe and mill machines, it is unable to cut metals in complex surfaces.
The main body will be made from a SUS plate.

fw_001.jpg fw_002.jpg fw_003.jpg

Anyway, let's start!
I think it is required to make a trial case parts firstly. I'd like to make them from aluminiun alloy, softer than stainless, but I intend to do it in almost the same way as real production.

Main body is cut out from this aluminium plate.
fw_004.jpg

After roughly cutting by hand saw...
fw_005.jpg fw_006.jpg

it must be milled to 46x47x7.4mm.
fw_007.jpg

Center is pointed. This is a guide to open through hole for the movement at lathe.
fw_008.jpg

20mm lug space is milled at both side.
fw_009.jpg fw_010.jpg

A space for crown with guard.
fw_011.jpg fw_012.jpg

Changed to lathe work. The plate is bonded to metal pipe by LOCTITE 263.
fw_013.jpg

Then 27.0mm hole must be opened.
fw_014.jpg fw_015.jpg fw_016.jpg

That's all for today!
 

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I find it interesting that you are prototyping with aluminum. The machining properties of aluminum are different from the target 316L steel.

There is a charm to the blocky simplistic design of the case, but the large bezel with the screws does not seem to give anything to the design in function or appearance to me. Though you are unable to make a complex case, the pragmatic design still has a unique feel.

I also think that perhaps using a thicker set of markers will compliment the technical appearance of the case. It is interesting also that you are suggesting this as a "field watch". From my understanding, perhaps the term that the English community uses for a durable watch worn out frequently without concern is a "beater". The term "field watch" often refers to a utilitarian and legible design that is military in nature.


Please continue to share your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi.
Continuation.

Next is bezel and caseback.
Bezel will be cut from proper size mill ends material. Simple lathe work, Description might be unnecessary.

fw_017.jpg fw_018.jpg fw_019.jpg

Although I don't intend to insert crystal to this bezel, I cut its space just as planned.
fw_020.jpg

Caseback is from 3mm thick plate.
In the same way as main body, it is bonded to metal bar.
fw_021.jpg fw_022.jpg fw_023.jpg

Shaping its recess part. The space is for the roter of automatic movement.
fw_024.jpg fw_025.jpg

LOCTITE 263 is fairly hard. When I remove the work, I use acetone, dissolves adhesive. The liquid makes removing easily.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
fw_026.jpg

Ridges for bezel and holes for screws are not milled yet at this moment.

That's all for today!
 

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Nice reduced design, but the sharp edges will probably make it unwearable, or at least wear down your clothes rather quick. And the large plain bottom , including the lugs will probably raise this ergonomical issues. From the production point plain is good but in real life its not done that often on larger watches.. appropos.. what about size. But in general I'm curious what you will get out of this project.. go ahead.😊
My next project will me a 3 d dial after a vintage car theme.. as soon as I will get permission to use the car manufacturers logo
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi.
Continuation.

I made some jigs to produce these case parts precisely.

This aluminium plate would be set on the rotery table, the curved outlines of main body will be fixed in correct angle and cut on this plate.
fw_027.jpg

This brass jig is used to hold the main body, in conjunction with the aluminium plate above.
fw_028.jpg View attachment 13905989 fw_030.jpg

This odd block is only for set the brass jig to the main body correctly. I made use of mill-ends bar.
fw_031.jpg

I made some rings additionally. From next post, I will do additional work, round cutting, drilling and so on, at milling machine with these jigs.
fw_032.jpg

That's all for today!
 

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Excellent progress and I like in particular the jigs you made. Having to do all the machining on manual mill and lathe is very challenging on complex shapes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello.
Continuation.

Case shaping will be really started. Before milling, it is needed that the main body is set to the holding jig in required angle. Two pins and left side bump enable that. The body is tightened by four screws, to avoid an accidental slip while milling.
fw_033.jpg

They are screwed on the another plate jig, which is bolted on rotary table.
fw_034.jpg fw_035.jpg

Pointing its rotation center.
fw_036.jpg

Milling is proceeding, cut cut!!
fw_037.jpg fw_038.jpg
fw_039.jpg fw_040.jpg
fw_041.jpg

Above and below of crown guard is cut roundly by ball end-mill.
fw_042.jpg

By turning it upside-down, the round shape is formed with comparative ease.
fw_043.jpg

The outline shaping is mostly finished.
That's all for today!
fw_044.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi.
Continuation.

The upper side of lug has to be cut in round shape. Only by using Φ10mm end-mill.
fw_045.jpg fw_046.jpg fw_047.jpg

On my wrist. This is getting its final shape.
fw_048.jpg

And then, I'd like to form some depressions at inner space of the main body from both sides, those are fitting for bezel and caseback.
fw_049.jpg fw_050.jpg

Finished in both sides, but I regret designing these part in a bit complicated. I intend to redesign it with simpler plan.
fw_051.jpg fw_052.jpg

Next is 24mm length lug bars. They are made from Φ1.8mm SUS bar. Actually, it is measured 1.79mm.
fw_054.jpg

They are arranged in 24mm length.
fw_055.jpg

At lathe, I chamfer their edges. The work finished quickly.
fw_056.jpg fw_057.jpg fw_058.jpg

I will open 1.78mm hole at crown side lug and 1.80mm hole at the other side.
The lug bar will not easily come out from lug hole, even if the tightness of the hole becomes loose.
Because it might be in crown-down position mostly, while we wear wristwatches.

Φ1.7mm dent is made at first to avoid slip of the tip of drill, the hole center is pointed nextly. Lastly, 1.78 or 1.80 holes are drilled.
fw_059.jpg fw_060.jpg fw_061.jpg

Its OK, tightness is just right.
fw_062.jpg

That's all for today, thank you.
 

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Excellent progress images, really enjoyed looking through your work. I can understand using Ali for the prototype, it is so nice to work with compared to s/s

In regard to the design, would you consider chamfering the edges, as previously mentioned, it looks like it will be irritating to wear.

btw hose damn looks look so tedious :) Looking forward to seeing it all come together!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hello!
Continuation.

Front side of the mainbody needs eight M1.4 screw threads every 45 degrees. I have to tap each of them one by one by handwork.
fw_063.jpg

As for this model, I decided to use ready-made M1.4x3 socket cap screw, which is not applied special design, on both side of bezel and caseback. If owners lost one of them accidentally, he could get new one easily at DIY shop or web shop and so on. They don't need to order special one at high price. I don't want to make this watch tiring.


Bezel is also drilled and Φ2.6 countersinks are applied on it.
fw_064.jpg fw_065.jpg

Nextly, Φ2 end-mill makes a notch 48 times on its outer rim.
fw_066.jpg

It is finished finely!
fw_067.jpg

Same as bezel, I have to make holes and some depressions on caseback.
fw_068.jpg fw_069.jpg

In addition to that, at lathe, it is required to form slanting part on the surface of it.
fw_070.jpg fw_071.jpg
fw_072.jpg

That's all for today! Thank you!
 
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