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Foundation of a watch collection - The holy trinity

14K views 141 replies 56 participants last post by  amgbda  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been asked so often about watches I would recommend that I've decided to post here with the hopes I can either help someone build their watch collection or spur some debate. We've all heard of the holy trinity of watch companies - PP, AP and VC (some would even say ALS) but what about the holy trinity of watches? The three watches to build the foundation for all other watches in your collection and beyond?

Obviously there's no hard "right" or "wrong" but I believe the following three watches could set the foundation for any watch collection. Before I start however, I would like to lay a couple of basic ground rules: The three watches together must be attainable to the average watch collector AND be purchased new within a three year span (I understand the Lange 1 is an incredible watch but at $40k it's just not realistic to most). Additionally they should be able to hold their value within 75% of purchase price. Given the average salary of roughly $60k a year, I would say a $12k total budget over the three year span is both fair and attainable.

Here we go, the first watch I would start my foundation with would be none other than the Omega Speedmaster Pro 3570.50 (only the 3570.50). For roughly $3500 you get a watch with both tremendous history and versatility. For clarity, the reason I would only consider the 3570.50 is because this is the model that most closely resembles the original 321 AND is still today NASA flight approved for space missions. I've said it before and I'll say it again, for the money there is simply no better watch on the planet that can match the history and quality of the Speedypro.

My second choice would be the Breitling Navitimer 01 although I understand this choice is much more up for debate. This beauty can be had for roughly $6k and brings with it a rich history as well. Now in all fairness there are a few other watches in this price range that can easily fit into the number two hole and those would be the JLC Reverso, JCL Master Thin or Panerai Luminor. The reason I decided on the Navitimer is because I'm an airman at heart. I was in the Air Force and am just fascinated with aeronautics history. However, I can certainly understand any of the other three choices as that anchor watch.

This is where things get difficult, the number three watch with only $2500 or so left to spend in the budget. For me, the choice is fairly simple and I would say a Tag Heuer Cal 6 Monaco. Obviously, my first choice would have been the Cal 12 with chronograph but with only $2500 left that's just not an option. One reason why I wouldn't mind going with the Cal 6 is because I already have two incredibly well built chronographs and don't mind the Tag not having the chrono. Most people would argue the whole reason to get the Monaco is for the Chronograph, but I say the Monaco was made famous for TWO reasons, the first, because it was the first automatic with a chronograph and the second (most people don't know this) is because it was the first square water proof watch. The only other watch I would consider putting into my foundation collection which is less than $2500 and meets the above criteria would be the Longines Flagship Heritage.

So to recap, my foundation would consist of the following:

Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.50
Breitling Navitimer 01 (first choice), JLC Reverso, JLC Master Thin, Panerai Luminor
Tag Heuer Monaco Cal 6 (first choice), Longines Flagship Heritage

Thank you!
 
#2 ·
I'm definitely not as knowledgeable about watches, but I have to agree (with the little I do have) about your third choice. The Monaco isn't about the chrono, absolutely spot on. If I were to buy one it would be for the reasons you mention. For reasons of personal taste I'd go for the JLC MT as number two (even though I like Panerai). I have a personal thing about Omega. They don't grab me but I was really interested, and not a little persuaded, by your argument re. Speedy.

In all thanks for sharing your knowledge and opinion.
 
#3 ·
A better "NASA"-OKed choice is a Casio G-Shock. More reliable and accurate than the now-dated Ω. Less than $100.

Aviator? Citizen Navihawk. The JY8030-83E has atomic time sync, keeps track of 43 cities, has multiple alarms, a shark-style bracelet is available, and has 200m WR. $400 or so.

The correct third choice has to be absolutely revolutionary among sport watches; the original Citizen Aqualand is the natural choice here. The first watch in its class to offer the functionality combination; even -- or actually, especially -- the first model with its dive depth/interval display changed horology forever. $300 or so for an original or reissue; prices climb if you want to be able to download dive data etc.

Done.
 
#4 ·
To each his own of course but personally I don't bother with numbers of brands. The fact is that I like to have whatever I find good looking and reliable for me without spending an arm and a leg. But who can afford them surely can be happy with expensive, rare or high end watches/brands.

To me having a variety of several is better then having just 2-3 watches.

A collection is a collection, be that of Timex, Casios or Patek.
 
#5 ·
I guess it depends on your definition of a foundation. Maybe it's just me, but $12k seems like a lot for someone to spend when they are just starting out. I mean, not to knock your choices, those are three great watches, but personally I would see them as more of a mid point of a collection than a foundation.
I would pick a Seiko 5 as a starting point. They're good solid watches, and I love mine. It's easily the watch I wear most often in my collection, even though I have 'better' watches I still tend to go for it.
Next, Casio G-Shock, 'nuff said.
And lastly, a diver would finish out our mini collection nicely. A Rolex Sub would be lovely, but a bit expensive, so instead I'd go for a Vostok Amphibia as a lower budget equivilent.
 
#7 ·
You guys are basically mentioning budget options without any thoughts to the OP's specification of 'the holy trinity'. i'm not saying that the watches you suggest are poor choices but they are never going to be the holy trinity of a serious watch collection. They are all perfectly serviceable time pieces and there's a place for them in a collection if you enjoy them but they do not fit the bill.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The "holy trinity" is subjective and to suggest otherwise based on price or brand is absurd. I would never own a Breitling or Tag based not on price but on the fact I don't like them. I'm surprised a Sub wasn't mentioned as that is on my list as well as many serious collectors i also like the Speedy but there is no definite third choice for me. Some people are "one watch guys" so would they not be considered having a "serious" collection? Any watch you enjoy fits the bill of a serious watch collection and to build one based on the opinions of others is weak and the act of sheep.
 
#8 ·
The G Shock exceeds the "bill."

It has a history of space flight, like the Ω.

Unlike the Ω, it is also better suited for use on a planet covered 70% by water.

It is more accurate than the Ω.

It is more robust than the Ω.

In fact I have to question how "serious" a collection could possibly be that costs more, offers similar history, yet less functionality and less suitability for the primary -- or any -- task.
 
#9 · (Edited)
The elephant in the room......where is BP? They belong way, WAY before tag and longi

The Pan is not explained because it has no business in the conversation.

The Racism is rampant. Where are the Asians?
 
#10 ·
The Speedmaster is a watch of great beauty and prestige, two characteristics that the G-Shock lacks. The G-Shock may be a more suitable watch if we suffered an apocalypse but the Speedmaster is plenty accurate and plenty robust for every day use. The G-Shock is not suitable for more formal wear while a Speedmaster would look great with a suit. Also do not try and muddy the waters of space flight, the Speedmaster has a storied and prestigious history with NASA, the G-Shock may be rated for space flight but it was not the first watch on the moon.

I'll also add that I notice you didn't even try to defend your other pedestrian choices.
 
#12 · (Edited)
There is no base number to start with or brand. Some people are one watch guys and some people just love Timex so you can't give a person the "holy trinity" you can give them your opinion and state that it is "your opinion" I personally don't like Breitling watches, specifically the over cluttered dials so I would never own one or suggest one as a choice, again that is "my opinion" I'm also not a fan of the Tag either so I wouldn't suggest it. To suggest 12K is a fair and reasonable budget for three watches over the course of three years is not reasonable and for the record i make more than 60K a year but wouldn't spend that amount in three years on watches, part of the joy in this hobby is the journy. The advice I would give is do your research and educate yourself about the different types of watches, autos,manual,quartz,solar etc. then take your time before you buy anything and understand watches are not investments so don't be misguided in thinking they will retain their value as there is only a very small number of them that retain or go up in value so uh what YOU LIKE. I would also suggest that they think about how they are going to use them in their daily life and how many they really need as well as the long term cost of servicing those watches.Bottom line there is no "go to" list of watches to start a collection and anyone giving that advice is not helping a new collector.
 
#15 ·
A good collection foundation suiting MY tastes would be:

Seiko SKX007
Omega Speedmaster Professional
Rolex Explorer 1

But I would definitely take someones particular tastes into account when making a recommendation.
 
#18 ·
3. The 'holy trinity' is subjective but mine certainly doesn't consist of dogshit brands like citizen or casio.
Citizen and Casio are among the most significant brands in history; only Seiko can rival them in horological significance and innovations.

Do you own Seiko, Citizen, Ω, Rolex, and Casio? I've given away my last a Seiko but I speak from experience. The G is the best watch in my collection.

The G may be among the best watches available at any price..

It's a $50 experiment if you don't own one. I own watches that exceed that cost by nearly 2 orders of magnitude yet they are not better watches. I refer specifically to brands many here seem to revere.
 
#20 · (Edited)
For my taste...
My 3 foundation watches would be....

Nomos Tangente Datum Gangreserve
Omega Speedmaster Professional
Grand Seiko Snowflake

Unfortunately I can't afford to lay down a proper foundation yet.
 
#22 ·
This is all a little boring, you can continue to tout the quality of these brands but I personally will not be digging into the bargain bucket anytime soon. As for the individual who called me 'uneducated' I'm no George Daniels but I do my reading, just because I think it's dog .... doesn't mean I don't know about it.
 
#24 ·
Well then the correct term would be ingnorant
 
#25 ·
Holy Trinity of Watchdom....

Rolex - obviously
Seiko - equally obvious
Casio - the most robust watches on the planet

That said, The only Rolex I would ever wear is one obtained by winning it as a trophy at a Rolex sponsored event. This is how my brother got his Sub.

Image
 
#26 ·
Wow, congrats to your brother.

The Sub is a great watch. I sometimes question whether the cyclops was a good idea, and keep telling myself the no-date is a better, cleaner choice, but the cyclops has a way of engraciating itself somehow, it's become iconic I suppose. They've come a long way in improving the bracelet, to where they can now legitimately claim their oyster is better than that of, say, Invicta (in the 90s they could not make such a claim IMO...), and the GL clasp is also now great -- just as good, though a very different design, to the Ω SMP (that, if I'm honest, is a bit difficult to put away fully after use).

I tend to prefer the turn-of-century or so cases, rather than the newer stuff that may look more sporting but seems to wear a bit high off the wrist. I'm actually OK with the repetitive, shouty rehaut engravings. All this just IMO.
 
#32 ·
This is all a little boring, you can continue to tout the quality of these brands but I personally will not be digging into the bargain bucket anytime soon. As for the individual who called me 'uneducated' I'm no George Daniels but I do my reading, just because I think it's dog .... doesn't mean I don't know about it.
There's always that one "stage 2" watch guy in every thread like these, who wants everyone to understand that he's past stage 1 but doesn't realize there's a stage 3.
 
#35 ·
Yawn! You're so superior, thats the thing that bothers me about you so called 'stage 3' watch guys (your words not mine) its the quiet air (or in your case rather loud) of superiority in your comments even though you're touting crap. Personally I don't care what you put on your wrist but as I've already stated before it won't be going on mine. It's just ridiculous when you turn up claiming that higher end brands are inferior to the cheap crap you choose to spend your money on, buy what you like but don't delude yourself it's sad and pathetic.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I'm playing this by my rules and doing it to suit my lifestyle. No idea what the total tab is for this. If it is more expensive it's not too much more. If it was my money I'd find a way to work all three into a budget.

These are my three in the order I'd get them. That way if it's over budget number 3 can wait and number 1 can do its job:

16600 Sea Dweller - more watch than you'll ever need and can use it in just about every occasion. I don't like the new ones, I just don't like the maxi dial:


Casio Pro Trek V3 - I do a lot of high altitude trekking and the barometer and altimeter are invaluable functions. It's cheap, you can use it anywhere and it has all the functions a chrono has plus more. I just think every collection needs a 'just don't care but I love it' watch. It's also the watch I'd use swimming and not be the type of idiot who'd, say, put my other watch in the locker:


JLC Reverso Tribute to '48 - the dress and formal watch. My style is classic with a twist and the blue hands on this makes this watch pull it off. It just is drop dead gorgeous in my books:
 
#38 ·
Interesting thread Giodoc, I'm on board with Speedy & Navi - absolute classics and sound cornerstones to a nice collection I'd agree. For the third one I would probably have gravitated towards a DJ or other entry level Rolex, but I guess for that the stipulations would have to allow for second hand (or increasing the budget/particularly shrewd deals on the other two purchases). Had I sat down and thought through the concept of a "collection" at the outset of my own journey, I would probably own one or more of the aforementioned. As I'm more of an impulsive serial consumer though, my fairly random "collection" built itself (although I do pay a lot more attention to not overlapping too much these days...)

All the best