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Discussion Starter #21
Just the blue end just had the watch clasp opened and spread out on the fingers of my left hand to give a nice spread of links and started working in straight lines from case to clasp working from edge into the centre of the band. Once done give the watch a good wash to get rid of rubber residue.


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Would this work for scratches on the lugs?
 

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Ok, I am rummaging through my kids pencil box as I read this. Does the blue end have a coarser or rougher feel to it? Are you saying a plain rubber eraser as in on the top of a pencil would yield similar results?

Im just amazed and am looking for that missing clue here if there is one? Pink eraser would work or is the blue end the key?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Pink is fine too. Basically I think these erasers were half for pencil (softer and tend to be marked HB) and half for ink (courser). Use the courser end. Post before after pics here please. Be great to see anyone else results too


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Great results. Thanks for posting. Hope this thread grows with more eraser results. My pelagos is only a few weeks ago but it's already got scuffs on it. Don't need to break out the eraser yet but I'll post here when I do. The pelagos titanium must be pretty soft to be polished with an eraser though.
 

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Well...No. any titanium (unless with treated surface) will end up like this.
 

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Brilliant stuff.
Just got my pelagos on Friday .
I bet when you send it in for a service and tudor charge you £££s for taking the scuff out lol.
Well, buy a rubber and hand it to he AD to go along with your watch for its service lol .
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Great results. Thanks for posting. Hope this thread grows with more eraser results. My pelagos is only a few weeks ago but it's already got scuffs on it. Don't need to break out the eraser yet but I'll post here when I do. The pelagos titanium must be pretty soft to be polished with an eraser though.
I'm no chemist but I think titanium auto oxidises over time and this oxidised layer is softer than the actual metal, so some of the scuffs on your watch are not actually on your watch but instead scuffs on the newly Forbes oxidisation layer. The eraser perhaps just removing this layer? Not sure so feel free to correct me. As for Tudors titanium I am again not certain but think it's grade 5 so should be stronger than steel but equally scratch resistant. I believe grade 2 is softer than steel although stronger and as such more easily scratched.


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Can I ask how your watch got so beat up in the first place? It looks fantastic now, but I also quite like the well-used look!

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Discussion Starter #32
Can I ask how your watch got so beat up in the first place? It looks fantastic now, but I also quite like the well-used look!

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Was a used watch when I bought it. That's kind of the state it arrived at me in. It cost £1400 which was very cheap but I was happy rubber and watch and box papers were all great. The bracelet didn't bother me too much as I tend to wear bracelets less often. It's only when I swapped it onto the watch that I realised I couldn't live with it in that condition. Not sure what prev owner did to it


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I'm no chemist but I think titanium auto oxidises over time and this oxidised layer is softer than the actual metal, so some of the scuffs on your watch are not actually on your watch but instead scuffs on the newly Forbes oxidisation layer. The eraser perhaps just removing this layer? Not sure so feel free to correct me. As for Tudors titanium I am again not certain but think it's grade 5 so should be stronger than steel but equally scratch resistant. I believe grade 2 is softer than steel although stronger and as such more easily scratched.
That would make sense rather than a pencil eraser being able to remove titanium. Im still amazed at how well it worked. I think the Pelagos is grade 2 titanium. Theres a thread somewhere, maybe here or the Rolex forum where someone had contacted Tudor about this. I would also think that if it WAS grade 5, Tudor would mention it in their spec like Omega do with their PO range. I feel a bit better about knocking my pelagos around now. Its picked up a few scratches already when my BB has been on my wrist for almost 2 years and hardly picked up anything apart from hairline scuffs.
 

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Just the blue end just had the watch clasp opened and spread out on the fingers of my left hand to give a nice spread of links and started working in straight lines from case to clasp working from edge into the centre of the band. Once done give the watch a good wash to get rid of rubber residue.


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Hi RustyBin5:
Just wondering if you recall the brand of eraser you used? One poster placed a pic of Pelikan br-80, but yours appeared white & blue; was it a
Staedtler Mars Rasoplast Combi 526BT30? It was the only blue & white combo I saw on Amazon.

Or does it really even matter-- just as long as it has an ink eraser side?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hi RustyBin5:
Just wondering if you recall the brand of eraser you used? One poster placed a pic of Pelikan br-80, but yours appeared white & blue; was it a
Staedtler Mars Rasoplast Combi 526BT30? It was the only blue & white combo I saw on Amazon.

Or does it really even matter-- just as long as it has an ink eraser side?

Thanks in advance
Brand doesn't matter it's just a pencil and ink eraser and you use the rougher ink end (usually the non white end)


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Brand doesn't matter it's just a pencil and ink eraser and you use the rougher ink end (usually the non white end)


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Just want to send a big thanks to both RustyBin5 and Sinner777 for the eraser tip! Worked beautifully to remove small scratches that I incurred when changing to strap from bracelet.
Patience and a little time yielded great results.

I appreciate all the wonderful sources of info available on this forum; the pelagos is quite simply a great value, made greater knowing how to preserve its appearance despite its role as a true "tool watch."
 
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