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Discussion Starter #1
have had this project on the back burner ie. taking up space on my second desk for the better part of a year, finally took some "me time" and worked on it.



it was a pretty beat gl130 with a mismatched after market band. i have never painted a bezel before, only dyed so i wanted to try my hand at that and see how well the paint would hold up. i originally wanted to just redo the original colours so I found a pretty close match of model kit paint that I had and brushed it on. It didn’t come up too bad but it was thick and didn’t have the best finish so out came the acetone and away when all the original paint on the bezel. The paint on the inner ring was still perfect so I left that.
For the bezel colour I chose something to compliment the green and purple accents so went with “dark iron” which had slightly more brown than I would’ve liked but it was on hand and matched the band I had sitting there waiting for a purpose. Instead of brushing, this time I whipped out the airbrush and it was a breeze (pardon the pun). I even added a very light texture to give it a bit of a tougher look.
Borrowed some strap adaptors from the dw003 graveyard and did them in the same colour. Finally I needle painted the gshock text in green to tie it together. would’ve liked a matte green but only had metallic. Not overly noticeable and should dull a bit with some wear.

Have worn it for a total of 2 days now and the paint (enamel) has held up well. Couple little marks but no chipping or peeling :-!





Strolling through the graveyard…watch your shoes…




 

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have had this project on the back burner ie. taking up space on my second desk for the better part of a year, finally took some "me time" and worked on it.



it was a pretty beat gl130 with a mismatched after market band. i have never painted a bezel before, only dyed so i wanted to try my hand at that and see how well the paint would hold up. i originally wanted to just redo the original colours so I found a pretty close match of model kit paint that I had and brushed it on. It didn’t come up too bad but it was thick and didn’t have the best finish so out came the acetone and away when all the original paint on the bezel. The paint on the inner ring was still perfect so I left that.
For the bezel colour I chose something to compliment the green and purple accents so went with “dark iron” which had slightly more brown than I would’ve liked but it was on hand and matched the band I had sitting there waiting for a purpose. Instead of brushing, this time I whipped out the airbrush and it was a breeze (pardon the pun). I even added a very light texture to give it a bit of a tougher look.
Borrowed some strap adaptors from the dw003 graveyard and did them in the same colour. Finally I needle painted the gshock text in green to tie it together. would’ve liked a matte green but only had metallic. Not overly noticeable and should dull a bit with some wear.

Have worn it for a total of 2 days now and the paint (enamel) has held up well. Couple little marks but no chipping or peeling :-!





Strolling through the graveyard…watch your shoes…




Nice job. That's a good looking G.
 

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Nice effort SBM, and yes, the "dark iron" tint makes it look so much better than the original. Just a few questions in my mind...


  • Is the bezel a regular PU bezel or is it any different?
  • Did you use regular model paint/acrylic paint for painting the bezel?
  • Did you have to use anything to reduce the viscosity of the model paint and make it easier to spray?
Thanks in advance :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice effort SBM, and yes, the "dark iron" tint makes it look so much better than the original. Just a few questions in my mind...


  • Is the bezel a regular PU bezel or is it any different?
  • Did you use regular model paint/acrylic paint for painting the bezel?
  • Did you have to use anything to reduce the viscosity of the model paint and make it easier to spray?
Thanks in advance :)
yep all standard resin parts even tho they orginally look very metallic. resin is in excellent shape for a 15yo+ watch |>

yep, just regular ol paint.... literally old, some of my paint is about 30 years old haha. i went with enamel hoping it would be a little tougher with such a thin coat

like any airbrushing you def. need to make sure the thickness is right. it does depend on the original paint and what pressure youre spraying at. i thinned it out a bit more than normal so i could keep it thin and not fill in the text too much.

ive worn the watch a couple more times and while i tend to look after all of them well, theres no signs of flaking or chipping. very handy to know its achievable :-! im still skeptical as to how well it would work on a band tho.
 

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Nicely done. The watch looks recently made. :-!

Btw, if I were you I'd put some kind of clear coat on it. This will toughen up the finish to resist chipping and scratching. Try not to wear it out in the elements, though. I don't think it will hold up as well as dyed resin.
 

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yep all standard resin parts even tho they orginally look very metallic. resin is in excellent shape for a 15yo+ watch |>

yep, just regular ol paint.... literally old, some of my paint is about 30 years old haha. i went with enamel hoping it would be a little tougher with such a thin coat

like any airbrushing you def. need to make sure the thickness is right. it does depend on the original paint and what pressure youre spraying at. i thinned it out a bit more than normal so i could keep it thin and not fill in the text too much.

ive worn the watch a couple more times and while i tend to look after all of them well, theres no signs of flaking or chipping. very handy to know its achievable :-! im still skeptical as to how well it would work on a band tho.
comparo.jpg

I ask because my DW-9050 had a similar metallic finish when it arrived, but the metallic finish had faded in spots. To achieve a uniform look, I cleaned it with acetone, and got rid of all the metallic finish to get a uniform grey, but very dull-looking bezel. Now I want to restore it with a similar metallic finish to the bezel. I may be choosing a totally wrong idea here, but would this work out for painting bezels?

Soft Iron Flat Metallic: Universal® Flat Metallic Spray Product Page
Dark Steel Metallic: Universal® Metallic Spray Paint Product Page
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nicely done. The watch looks recently made. :-!

Btw, if I were you I'd put some kind of clear coat on it. This will toughen up the finish to resist chipping and scratching. Try not to wear it out in the elements, though. I don't think it will hold up as well as dyed resin.
i thought about the clear coat but love the look and feel of the light texturing i put on it, a clear coat would take away both of those.
im not too concerned with chipping and scratching, its not a show piece, but i have faith in my application, it should hold up to light bumps and scuffs fine (im actually rubbing parts of it with my thumb to give it a more worn look) and a bit of water wont hurt it at all. i wouldnt go swimming with this particular one anyway.

a dye job would hold up better but two huge set backs for dye, is of course the one way light > dark application and the restriction of colours.
worse comes to worse, i strip the paint and redo it in another colour (again something rather restrictive of dyeing)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
View attachment 7013538

I ask because my DW-9050 had a similar metallic finish when it arrived, but the metallic finish had faded in spots. To achieve a uniform look, I cleaned it with acetone, and got rid of all the metallic finish to get a uniform grey, but very dull-looking bezel. Now I want to restore it with a similar metallic finish to the bezel. I may be choosing a totally wrong idea here, but would this work out for painting bezels?

Soft Iron Flat Metallic: Universal® Flat Metallic Spray Product Page
Dark Steel Metallic: Universal® Metallic Spray Paint Product Page
if you dont have an airbrush id consider rattle cans from a hobby shop. ive never used them but can assume they would spray finer and less wider spray than something made for household use. if tried spraying a model kit with a rattle can before (wanted to paint the kit the same colour as my actual car :p ) and you really need to spray from further away and be much more delecate otherwise you just end up drowning the thing in paint. in this case youd be easily filling the indents where the text is. even with the airbrush i had to go pretty lightly around the functions text.

speaking of the text, of course youll need to repaint that as well but you wont be able to use the hamfisted cotton swab blobbing and acetoning off cos it will strip the fresh paint so youll need to do it very carefully with a needle or tooth pick. id prob forget about the mode text, way too fine! even more so after a coat of paint!
 

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if you dont have an airbrush id consider rattle cans from a hobby shop. ive never used them but can assume they would spray finer and less wider spray than something made for household use. if tried spraying a model kit with a rattle can before (wanted to paint the kit the same colour as my actual car :p ) and you really need to spray from further away and be much more delecate otherwise you just end up drowning the thing in paint. in this case youd be easily filling the indents where the text is. even with the airbrush i had to go pretty lightly around the functions text.

speaking of the text, of course youll need to repaint that as well but you wont be able to use the hamfisted cotton swab blobbing and acetoning off cos it will strip the fresh paint so youll need to do it very carefully with a needle or tooth pick. id prob forget about the mode text, way too fine! even more so after a coat of paint!
Thanks for the inputs, SBM! I have used quick-dry rattlecans before, but never attempted painting a bezel. I'd probably try it on a spare/damaged bezel first before taking the final plunge. My primary concern is how well the paint would hold up.
 

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i thought about the clear coat but love the look and feel of the light texturing i put on it, a clear coat would take away both of those.
im not too concerned with chipping and scratching, its not a show piece, but i have faith in my application, it should hold up to light bumps and scuffs fine (im actually rubbing parts of it with my thumb to give it a more worn look) and a bit of water wont hurt it at all. i wouldnt go swimming with this particular one anyway.

a dye job would hold up better but two huge set backs for dye, is of course the one way light > dark application and the restriction of colours.
worse comes to worse, i strip the paint and redo it in another colour (again something rather restrictive of dyeing)
There are clearcoats available that dry matte or satin, rather than gloss. Might be worth checking into, unless you're fine with touch-ups later on. I guess it all depends upon the composition of the paint, because some of these have enough acetone or similar ingredient that bonds the paint to the plastic, rather than adhering as just a top layer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There are clearcoats available that dry matte or satin, rather than gloss. Might be worth checking into, unless you're fine with touch-ups later on. I guess it all depends upon the composition of the paint, because some of these have enough acetone or similar ingredient that bonds the paint to the plastic, rather than adhering as just a top layer.
well aware of the different types of clears and i have a fair selection of whats available and how they dry, but any further coats clear or otherwise will smooth the texture and change the finish of whats currently there, so im happy to leave it.
i can easilty go a most of a year without putting many scuffs on my watches so im sure itll hold up just fine. tho as said, its not going to be a show quality piece, in fact i might wear it as a beater to see how well the paint holds up simply out of curiousity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the inputs, SBM! I have used quick-dry rattlecans before, but never attempted painting a bezel. I'd probably try it on a spare/damaged bezel first before taking the final plunge. My primary concern is how well the paint would hold up.
yea, why not, go for it. just hold the can as far away as possible and "dust" it to keep the coats light. how well it holds up is anyones guess, would also come down to application and wear but if applied properly, i dont see why it couldnt do reasonably well
 

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spray paint will work fine on the bezel and those adapters, Mike K and I did an experiment last year (or 2 years backs, I don't remember) and mine, which is a 5500 still holds the paints together - I can't recall the brand at the moments, but I found it at the car paint section, for bumpers and truck beds ...or
 

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yea, why not, go for it. just hold the can as far away as possible and "dust" it to keep the coats light. how well it holds up is anyones guess, would also come down to application and wear but if applied properly, i dont see why it couldnt do reasonably well
spray paint will work fine on the bezel and those adapters, Mike K and I did an experiment last year (or 2 years backs, I don't remember) and mine, which is a 5500 still holds the paints together - I can't recall the brand at the moments, but I found it at the car paint section, for bumpers and truck beds ...or
Thanks Both!! All points noted :-!
Just ordered the "Rust-Oleum Flat Metallic Soft Iron" spray which, in simple words, translates to matte metallic grey. Hoping the shade would look good on the 9050 bezel and if all goes well, I would be ordering a metallic matte blue to paint my jelly 6900!!!

DSC00818.JPG
 

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Thanks Both!! All points noted :-!
Just ordered the "Rust-Oleum Flat Metallic Soft Iron" spray which, in simple words, translates to matte metallic grey. Hoping the shade would look good on the 9050 bezel and if all goes well, I would be ordering a metallic matte blue to paint my jelly 6900!!!
Update:
So here are my results. The good things first:


  • The rust-oleum stuff is good and spreads and adheres really well.
  • Once dried for 8 hrs, the paint holds on very strongly. I tried scuffing and rubbing with my fingers, the paint doesn't come off.
IMG_20160219_071158.jpg

But here're the deal breakers:


  • The button texts and "G-Shock" on the bezel got filled in. Will need a lot of toothpicking to get the grooves back and re-paint them.
  • In the sun, the metallic paint seems to have too much of glint in it. Almost looks like one of those glitzy bling bezels. Not my thing.
IMG_20160219_083616.jpg

No now, back to the acetone for a nice soak and restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
youre right, it does look a little too *sparkle sparkle*, the application and finish is great otherwise |>

yea it def. doesnt take much to fill in the text. a toothpick should do ok but i have found theyre rather rough and uneven if youre trying to be precise. ive thought about using a "panel scriber tool" (used in model kit building) but have yet to require going to those extremes. def. could be something to look into i tho.
 

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youre right, it does look a little too *sparkle sparkle*, the application and finish is great otherwise |>

yea it def. doesnt take much to fill in the text. a toothpick should do ok but i have found theyre rather rough and uneven if youre trying to be precise. ive thought about using a "panel scriber tool" (used in model kit building) but have yet to require going to those extremes. def. could be something to look into i tho.
I tried taking a punt and just worked out a much more innovative method to spray-paint bezels without affecting the bezel text:


  • Used a toothpaste (the Colgate type, non-gel ones) to fill in all the text/grooves. Let it dry.
  • Spray paint the bezel. Again, let the spray paint dry.
  • Once dried, taking out the dried toothpaste is lot, lot easier using a toothpick.
  • If any traces of the toothpaste are left behind, a wash under running water removes all traces.
 

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That looks great!
 
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