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Discussion Starter #1
I've bought a brand new GW-056 recently. I think it's new old stock. Because it's serial number is: 202A051F and indicates its manufacture date: 20.02.2006

Its display looks quite dim. Is it normal or needs a battery change? I've read about CTL1616 has a 10 years shelf life.

Here is a comparison picture:

20160203_220106-1.jpg
 

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According to page 4 of the manual at http://support.casio.com/storage/en/manual/pdf/EN/009/qw3016.pdf it looks like the battery level indicator in the upper right hand corner is on "M."

If that's the case, the battery still has plenty of power -- you can TRY charging it up to "high" (and then "full") according to the charts on the same page. The problem is probably that Casio's earlier "negative LCD" displays aren't as easy to read as some of the newer ones, like the GD-350 you also have pictured.
 

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It's an early negative display which really weren't the best from a legibility perspective, but the watch is fine. I have a positive version and love the retro-ness of it. Good catch and enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
OK, then. Thank you for the replies. I really like the watch, its appearance. How about hydro-modding? Do you think that hydro-modding helps to increase the visibility? I guess, the reflection from the glass makes trouble and reduces the display's visibility in considerable amount at certain angles.
 

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OK, then. Thank you for the replies. I really like the watch, its appearance. How about hydro-modding? Do you think that hydro-modding helps to increase the visibility? I guess, the reflection from the glass makes trouble and reduces the display's visibility in considerable amount at certain angles.
Visibility is one of the main reasons for hydro-modding. It cuts down reflection from the inside of the glass, especially underwater, but also on dry land. Here's a recent-ish thread about someone hydro-modding another negative display: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f17/anyone-do-hydro-mod-gwm5610-bc-2686745.html

Be aware, though, that hydro-modding is pretty much a one-way street -- it's theoretically easy to pour oil into the case, but it's much more difficult to remove all of the silicone oil from inside the case if you decide that you don't like it. Two links to most of the hydro mod threads around here (and skip any threads about "hydro dipping" -- that's a completely different process.) https://www.google.com/search?q=site:forums.watchuseek.com/f17+hydro&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=site:forums.watchuseek.com/f17+hydro+mod and https://www.google.com/search?q=site:forums.watchuseek.com/f17+hydro&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I took the risk and did hydro modding to my watch. The result is very good for me. I tried to recapture the first picture in my first post under the same light conditions.

The only negative result of the modding is the A-EL does not work. But it is OK for me. Atomic sync works without problem. I used this oil: Robot Check

Let's see the result:

ezgif.com-resize.gif
 
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