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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.
I am beginning to get more serious with watches, but I can't decide on my own and I need expert help. I hope you don't mind the long post:

Currently I own multiple normal (<500$) watches: an automatic Junkers (aviation style), a Romanson (chronometer), a Suunto (field/military) and a Swiss Military (quartz).
I want to get an entry-level Swiss luxury watch to step-up my collection and also wear in more formal situations (as well as maybe daily use)
Initially I was looking for dress watches, but after some research and seeing more pictures, I fell in love with Diver watches and decided to get one.

Here are my criteria:
  • > 72 hours reserve
  • display back
  • anti-magnetic (silicon, etc)
  • sapphire with AR coating
  • preferably ceramic bezel
  • preferably an in-house movement (not sure if it's an advantage though)
  • 41-44mm
  • Max 2,000€ (can go up to 3K if I have to)

I have found these candidates so far:
1. TISSOT SEASTAR 1000 POWERMATIC 80 SILICON (I suppose the other brands mentioned, make higher quality watches)
2. Longines HydroConquest (I love the brand, but it has no display back)
3. Oris Aquis Calibre 400 (my choice so far)
4. Tag Heuer diver series (problem: short power reserve, no display back. They don't use their 02 movement in the divers, and it's expensive too)
5. Mido OCEAN STAR DIVER 200 and 600 (no display back)

So far I like the Oris, its looks and its features (120 hour reserve). It checks almost all my boxes, but I have one concern: does Oris worth the 2900€ price tag? I am not a watch expert, but I suppose Tag Heuer and Longines are one class above Oris when it comes to brand value (which somehow affects the pricing as well). I can increase my budget to cover Oris, but I am worried whether I should change my mind about display back and buy a better brand like Longines.

So my questions are:
What do you think about the Oris? Is it a good value considering the price?
And do you have any other suggestions that I have missed in my search?

Thanks in advance
Mehdi
 

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I’d put an Oris Aquis at roughly the same level as Longines and TAG. Exactly where they all sit is up for debate, but there’s not miles apart.

The Aquis is a great choice. Whether is worth that price is another matter. I buy most of my watches used.
 

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The Aquis Cal 400 is a new one, there are quite a few videos breaking down the value proposition. 10 year service is something that needs to be factored in. However it is a solid brand, you won't go wrong with it.
Others to add to the evaluation would be Sinn - they might not meet all the criteria, but are great watches at that price point.
Baume et Mercier is another brand in that range with 5 days PR.
 

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Have you tried any of these watches on? Are you in a position to do so? I'm in a very fortunate location for watches (and ironically am not a prolific watch buyer) and I appreciate the vast majority of people do not have a multitude of ADs a bus ride away. But seeing a watch on your wrist will make the choice a lot easier. And I'm guessing this is not a casual purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you tried any of these watches on? Are you in a position to do so? I'm in a very fortunate location for watches (and ironically am not a prolific watch buyer) and I appreciate the vast majority of people do not have a multitude of ADs a bus ride away. But seeing a watch on your wrist will make the choice a lot easier. And I'm guessing this is not a casual purchase.
I live in Berlin, and there are many watch shops here. I haven't tried these yet, but I will do so this week.
 

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Hi. From what I've seen, the Oris Aquis is quite popular on this forum and Oris is absolutely a solid brand on par with Longines. So no worries at all in that regard.

Definitely agree you should see it in person and try it on before making a purchase at this level!

This German dealer has it for 2370€ if you maybe want to look into it. (I don't know them, just found them online). Maybe that price not so far over your original budget would make you feel more comfortable with the investment.


Good luck, it's a beautiful watch! The light play on the blue dial... 🤤
 

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The Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-axial Chronometer almost fits the bill for you as well. It's 60 hours instead of 72, and is on the smaller side of your size range, but it's incredibly versatile. With some patience, you can probably find it within your price range, and a pre-owned model will probably hold its value better than a brand-new Oris. That being said, the Oris is a fine watch too, so you are by no means missing out if you select that one
 

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I live in Berlin, and there are many watch shops here. I haven't tried these yet, but I will do so this week.
Also, perhaps a dealer there in Berlin would be willing to match the price from the dealer I linked to above (or whatever lowest price you can find) in order to secure your business. Worth a try at least...
 

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I live in Berlin, and there are many watch shops here. I haven't tried these yet, but I will do so this week.
That's great. You'll def get a better idea, as I'm sure you know. Visited Berlin a couple of times. Really like that city 👍🏻
 

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Oris FTW. Or Heuer Autavia re-edition . About 2800euros as well Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oris FTW. Or Heuer Autavia re-edition . About 2800euros as well Good luck!
Thanks. The one matching my criteria is actually more expensive (The one with HEUER 02 movement with 80 hour reserve, with display back. Around 4.5-5K)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
+1 to Omega Seamaster 300
+1 to Baume et Mercier Baumatic

Both very different from each other, but iconic and will stand the test of time.

Keep us updated on your search as you try things on!
Thanks. Considering that I want to buy new, Omega is beyond my budget.
It seems Baume et Mercier is not a dive watch. I think one of the reasons I got attracted to dive watches is their masculine form. (I was initially looking for something like Tissot Gentleman, and this Baumatic seems to be in the same style category, but I changed my mind after finding these dive watches)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This German dealer has it for 2370€ if you maybe want to look into it. (I don't know them, just found them online). Maybe that price not so far over your original budget would make you feel more comfortable with the investment.

Thanks for the link. They provide great discounts! I contacted them to make sure this is the original and new watch.

How about a pre-owned Tudor pelagos? Seamaster definitely a solid choice and a very strong brand.
Thanks, but I would rather buy a new watch.
 

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I would seriously reconsider the requirement that it be brand new. I’m not conversant on Oris, but you’re going to overpay on the Tag. Why not move up a class and let someone else take that depreciation hit?

I’ve gone both routes and continue to do so depending upon the circumstances. In this case, searching out a full set < a year old is a huge win, in my opinion.

Besides the newer Seamaster pros, have you seen a 2254.50 in the metal? It’s an appreciating piece and pretty timeless.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm pretty sure Oris uses non-standard lugs which makes strap changes difficult at best. My first nice watch was an Oris and that was something I hadn't been aware of when I bought it.

Something to consider...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would seriously reconsider the requirement that it be brand new. I’m not conversant on Oris, but you’re going to overpay on the Tag. Why not move up a class and let someone else take that depreciation hit?

I’ve gone both routes and continue to do so depending upon the circumstances. In this case, searching out a full set < a year old is a huge win, in my opinion.

Besides the newer Seamaster pros, have you seen a 2254.50 in the metal? It’s an appreciating piece and pretty timeless.
I totally agree. My reason is that I am not an expert in watches and I can't properly assess/judge a used watch's quality or whether it has been repaired, etc.
The good thing with the new watch (for me) is that it comes with all the warranties and certifications etc.
I would think about it though. In this specific case (Oris) it has been in the market for 2 weeks or so; So if I decide to get it, my only option would be to get new.
 
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